Touring - 2010 Novara Randonee - Swap out Crankset too ????

I plan on purchasing a 2010 Novara Randonee today. I was going to have them to put on a 11-34 cassette and a new rear derailleur. Do I need to have the crankset swapped out too? Specs on website lists:

Crankset: Shimano FC-R453 50/39/30
Rear Derailleur: Shimano 105, long cage
Rear Cog: SRAM PG-950 11-28, 9-Speed

If I need to swap out the crankset as well, what would you suggest?

I think I found an error between the REI website versus their downloadable catalog. On the website the crankset is listed as "Shimano FC-R453 50/39/30" whereas the downloadable catalog has "Shimano Deore 48/36/26".

I am guessing that it has the 48/36/26 and that it would not need swapping out as well. I will verify this before I make the purchase.

Let me know what you find, mkwdrs.
This is important to me as well. If you do find a need to swap out the crank, fill me in on that, too.
Thanks,
Lyndon

According to bike shop mechanic, it is the 50/39/30.

Hmm, that seems odd. I know that the 2008 came with the deore mountain crankset. Why would they change it? Trying to capture the commuting crowd?
Maybe kyakdiver will chime in here....

In the other thread, spyro1123 said:
"Just so you know why the bike shop said that it wouldn't work, it was spec'd with a mountain rear der last year, and there were shifting problems... Still not sure why... but bottom line was every randonee got a different rear der in the shop after they were built up."

So that may be the reason?
Lyndon

Well, I went to buy the Randonee on my lunch hour. I ended up leaving with no purchase. I got to speak with the "head" mechanic. When I mentioned about switching to an 11-34, he did not recommend that at all. He gave me the history of how the Randonee's used to be spec'd and the issues that they have had with them over the last few years. He really sounded like he was very familiar with the drivetrain situation. He said that he would only recommend going to bar end shifters if I was going to go with a mtn bike cog and derailleur. He explained what worked good with STI shifters and what didn't work good, etc, etc, etc. He was very thorough.

When I look at the Jamis Aurora drivetrain specs, I am not sure that I understand why the Randonee cannot have a similar drivetrain. I do not doubt the mechanic as I'm sure he has had to work on them when issues arose. Can anyone look at the Jamis Aurora specs and tell me why the Randonee cannot have a similar drivetrain that would work sufficiently?

It's just my luck. The Randonee is the first road type bike that actually felt like it fit. I cannot find a Aurora in my size to test. I purchased a LHT a couple of years ago and the fit just doesn't work for me (no LHT's to test ride, so took a chance and it didn't work out).


Aurora Drivetrain:
Shimano Deore M591SGS rear and Tiagra front, 28.6mm clamp
Shimano Tiagra Dual Control STI, 27-speed
SRAM Powerglide 950, 9-speed, 11-34T
FSA Vero Forged 50/39/30T
-------------------------------
Randonee Drivetrain:
Front derailleur Shimano Tiagra
Rear derailleur Shimano 105, long cage
Shifters Shimano Tiagra
Rear cogs SRAM PG-950 11-28, 9-speed
Number of gears 27

I'm not sure why it wouldn't work either. I put that same setup on my wife's and my touring bikes, Cannondale T800 and Volpe (44/32/22 with an 11-34, tiagra STI shifters, Tiagra 4503 front derailleur, Shimano LX rear derailleur). We've put several thousand miles on these bikes and never had a problem. I'm building a LHT now and am using the same setup. The only issue when going from a road or "trekking" crank to a mountain bike crank is using a bottom bracket with a shorter spindle to maintain the 45-47mm chainline. Most mountain bikes use about a 50mm chainline which road components can't handle. I just checked the specs and the 2010 Rondenee uses an "octalink" bottom bracket. This is what my wife's bike had and it is more problamatic than the square taper bottom brackets. The 2010 is definately not set up for touring!

Check with Kyakdiver, who often posts on this form. He replaced a bike he crashed with a Rondenee, and seems very knowledgeable.

I have an 09 Randonee, and I have the 11-34 rear cog, with a Deore LX derailleur. I dont have problems with the shifting with the STI's. The mechanic I had do it, said that the problems were on a bike to bike basis. Some would work, and some wouldnt. I am still using the factory cranks though.

Yeah with that REI member 20% off any single item sale going on, it's a killer deal for the next few weeks. I'm planning on buying one too. We spent some time talking to the mechanic at the local REI about doing exactly the same thing, swapping out the rear derailler/casette but the problem is, they won't give you credit for the old components like they do for saddles and stuff they could just resell. They have a specific list of components they will swap out for money back and the drive train isn't one of them. So in the end I think I'll stick with the 105's.

I noticed the discrepancy btw the website and catalog too. We asked them for the frame specs too, and they just don't have them at all, so the geometry is a bit of a mystery. I didn't look at the crankset, sorry. Now I wish I did. I just assumed it was the FC-R453. I wonder if I can just replace the small cog on the crankset with one a tiny bit smaller to make up for the lack of mountain gearing on the back? I sure hate to toss the 105's in the spare parts bin or try to sell them myself.

I now have about 1000 miles with my 2010 Novara Rondonee with sti shifting, xt RD and 11/34 combo. Shifts like butter but can't help a mechanic who isn't competent. Nothing wrong with the combo.

Mine has the 48/36/26 crank.

Just for kicks, I called 3 other REI's and talked to people in the bike shop. All other mechanics thought that the 11-34 should work okay. I guess that I will just buy the 2010 from a different store than where the mechanic works that did not suggest that I did this. I also sent an email to the Novara bike folks, but have not heard back from them yet. I should hear back from them by tomorrow.

I find calling on the phone you don't get their full attention and will get a wide spectrum of answers - you're more likely to have a productive discussion when you're there in the store and ready to buy. I also think they should credit you for the take-offs.

I find calling on the phone you don't get their full attention and will get a wide spectrum of answers - you're more likely to have a productive discussion when you're there in the store and ready to buy. I also think they should credit you for the take-offs.

They do.

The REI folks I talked to showed me the list of components they can swap out for something else. Drivetrain components were not on the list, so if you swap out the rear cassette and derailler, for example, it's not on the list - you won't get credit. Seats and things like that they can resell, they will give you credit for.

I now have about 1000 miles with my 2010 Novara Rondonee with sti shifting, xt RD and 11/34 combo. Shifts like butter but can't help a mechanic who isn't competent. Nothing wrong with the combo.

Mine has the 48/36/26 crank.

kyakdiver: I read your REI review of the 2010 Randonee, did you also swap out the crank for the 48/36/26? It appears the stock bike comes with the 50/39/30.

The REI folks I talked to showed me the list of components they can swap out for something else. Drivetrain components were not on the list, so if you swap out the rear cassette and derailler, for example, it's not on the list - you won't get credit. Seats and things like that they can resell, they will give you credit for.


Well the Bellingham REI thinks differently. They did and do.

I just bought this bike in Maple Grove, MN because the other two REI's in the area claimed that it would be either prohibitively expensive or not possible for unspecified reasons (laziness?) to swap out drivetrain components. I got a 'mountain' crankset (48/36/26), deore xt rear and deore front derailleurs, 11-34 cassette, and durace bar-ends, all for an equal cost swap out.

Tips: don't give up on negotiations too quickly; communicate what you're using the bike for and the low gearing needed; talk to the head mechanic, not salespeople.