General Cycling Discussion - I KNEW it was going to be difficult, but...

So I'm back home in good ol' WV, and unlike my parents' neighborhood where I've been tearing around on the wife's new GT Avalanche 3.0 Disc on the street, there are a few more hills in my neighborhood. Now, before anyone tells me a mountain bike isn't the ideal cruiser for the streets, I was aware of that when we got it; in fact, I ordered a GT Avalanche 1.0 Disc for myself, which should be ready for pick-up by the end of the week.

Anyway, lemme cut to the chase here. I already know street tires would make a world of difference due to much less resistance/road friction than a mountain bike's knobby tires, but I figured that out of 24 gears to choose from, I could find AT LEAST one that I could climb a hill with without huffing and puffing halfway up, and then having to walk the rest of the way up the hill with my knees quivering under me. In fact, I finished my ride about 20-30 minutes ago, and I'm still quivering at the knees! :cry:

Yeah, I know, I'm out of shape; I know this, too. Maybe it's just going to take a while to build those muscles back up, and I'm just expecting too much, such as just jumping back on a bike like when I was 14 years old and have endless amounts of energy. :( Well, whatever the case, it ain't happening this time around! :cry:

So, any suggestions on making my ride a little bit easier, or am I just being a pre-madonna and a sissy?

So, any suggestions on making my ride a little bit easier...?

You ride more.

You ride more.

That goes without saying! Maybe I'm asking the wrong question, like, "What would enhance the performance of my mountain bike for asphalt-only journeys?"

I'm definitely going to ride more. We didn't spend $1300-$1400 in biking equipment to just sit and collect dust. We're both on a mission to get in shape, lose weight, and have fun while losing weight. It's hard work, but hard work never phased me when it came to doing something I really wanted to accomplish. No pain, no gain, right? ;)

1. Make sure the brakes are properly adjusted and not dragging, pick the wheel up and spin it.

2. Pump up tires to max on sidewall. (maybe plus 5 PSI ) You did get a floor pump, didn't you?

3. Fit higher pressure slick tires.

4. Make sure the saddle is at correct height, your legs should almost be straight when at full extension on the pedal, NOT straight, but close.

5. Persevere, it will come, but for the first little bit, nothing will seem to happen, then you are going to find, "Hey! I didn't walk that hill!"

Congratulations on taking the first steps, it's NOT easy if you've been sedentary for a few decades, but it's worth it.

but I figured that out of 24 gears to choose from, I could find AT LEAST one that I could climb a hill with without huffing and puffing halfway up, and then having to walk the rest of the way up the hill with my knees quivering under me. In fact, I finished my ride about 20-30 minutes ago, and I'm still quivering at the knees!

Depending on the "hill" and what seems to be your level of condition, it isn't surprising that you might have had to walk up something. (Don't worry about it too much.)

We have no idea what you think of as a "hill". It might be interesting to indicate the actual address of this "hill". I'm assuming that you are using your lowest gears.

It's possible that you are trying too hard. Learning to bicycle also requires learning to pace yourself.

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This bike has very low gears. The rear cluster is 11-32, which is fairly low (but not the lowest possible). The crankset is 22/32/44, which is low too (typical for MTB).

This bike is reasonably set-up to climb fairly steep hills.

http://www.gtbicycles.com/deu/eng/Bikes/Mountain/Details/5883-G10AVA1D-Avalanche-1.0-Disc

http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=19143

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A better strategy (starting out), might be to select one of your lower gears and go up the hill slowly.

A good technique to using your gears efficiently is to shift to the lowest (smallest) front gear and shift the rear to a higher gear before you start climbing. That way, you can just shift your rear derailler as you climb and things get harder (if you need to). It's easier and faster to shift the rear derailler than it is the front.

The general idea is to keep your pedals rotating at 60+ RPM (this number is called "cadence"). You pick your gear to match your cadence. It is possible that some hills might be too steep for you to be able to pedal at 60+RPM in your lowest gear. In that situation, you might have to walk.

While the bike-related advice will help a little, hills only get easier if you work at it. That is, ride more.

Oh! Lockout the front suspension, you don't need it on the street, and it sucks up pedaling energy.

I use a set of Nimbus tires on my MTB for use as a 'hybrid' of sorts, and a commuter years ago. Helped a whole lot over the knobbies.

I haven't heard any mention of clipless pedals yet. A budget pair of spd compatible shoes and some used pedals doesn't cost much and will get you as much speed as ditching the knobs. Once you get used to them, you'll never go back to platforms.

And yes, knobs suck on the road. I notice a big difference just switching from slicks to semi-slicks, forget full on knobbies. Even having knobs on the sides for cornering will affect your ability to carry speed around a corner. At higher speeds that indexed, notchy feeling as you transition from the inside of a knob to the top and then to the outside is enough to spook beginning riders.

I think #3 would have to be fit. Although you won't be worrying about aerodynamics much on a mountain bike, finding the most efficient riding position you're still comfortable staying in really pays off. Most serious cyclists agonize over it. I myself notice when my saddle to handlebar distance is off by more than just a few millimeters.

Good Luck!

1. Make sure the brakes are properly adjusted and not dragging, pick the wheel up and spin it.

2. Pump up tires to max on sidewall. (maybe plus 5 PSI ) You did get a floor pump, didn't you?

3. Fit higher pressure slick tires.

4. Make sure the saddle is at correct height, your legs should almost be straight when at full extension on the pedal, NOT straight, but close.

5. Persevere, it will come, but for the first little bit, nothing will seem to happen, then you are going to find, "Hey! I didn't walk that hill!"

Congratulations on taking the first steps, it's NOT easy if you've been sedentary for a few decades, but it's worth it.

I'm glad you brought up the "brake issue," because it's going to save me from wasting bandwidth on a thread that could be answered here.

The bike has disc brakes, and I'm noticing a "tsst...tsst...tsst" sound that I know is the rotor. It appears to be very close to the "caliper bolt," and I'm going to assume that as the wheel turns, it's lightly touching. The wheels are the "quick-release" variant, and I've tried removing and reinstalling the wheel numerous times, with numerous tensions on the "lock lever;" no dice. I can get it to spin freely, but the moment someone sits on it, it's back to the same game.

I've never owned a bike with disc brakes. Is a very slight contact of the rotor with the caliper normal, or is there some sort of adjustment needed?

I'm glad you brought up the "brake issue," because it's going to save me from wasting bandwidth on a thread that could be answered here.

The bike has disc brakes, and I'm noticing a "tsst...tsst...tsst" sound that I know is the rotor. It appears to be very close to the "caliper bolt," and I'm going to assume that as the wheel turns, it's lightly touching. The wheels are the "quick-release" variant, and I've tried removing and reinstalling the wheel numerous times, with numerous tensions on the "lock lever;" no dice. I can get it to spin freely, but the moment someone sits on it, it's back to the same game.

I've never owned a bike with disc brakes. Is a very slight contact of the rotor with the caliper normal, or is there some sort of adjustment needed?

Do you know the type/model of the brakes? The calipers usually have one or two rings/bolts for adjusting the pad position. However, the rotor can be warped too, but it may be possible to true it. Your LBS may be able to help you with that. Slight rubbing like that won't make your ride that much harder though.

Simple brakes such as Hayes MX1 allow only to adjust one pad, Avid BB7 allow adjustments of both. Also, proper centering of the caliper over the rotor is important. Avid suggests 2/3: rotor closer to the inside, stationary pad.

As mentioned above: hard, smooth tires and proper riding position make the biggest difference.

Adam

I've never owned a bike with disc brakes. Is a very slight contact of the rotor with the caliper normal, or is there some sort of adjustment needed?
Note that, if you bought it from a shop, they will generally look at issues and answer your questions.

I'm glad you brought up the "brake issue," because it's going to save me from wasting bandwidth on a thread that could be answered here.

The bike has disc brakes, and I'm noticing a "tsst...tsst...tsst" sound that I know is the rotor. It appears to be very close to the "caliper bolt," and I'm going to assume that as the wheel turns, it's lightly touching. The wheels are the "quick-release" variant, and I've tried removing and reinstalling the wheel numerous times, with numerous tensions on the "lock lever;" no dice. I can get it to spin freely, but the moment someone sits on it, it's back to the same game.

I've never owned a bike with disc brakes. Is a very slight contact of the rotor with the caliper normal, or is there some sort of adjustment needed?A slight noise as you describe is common, depending on the brake, it can sometimes be adjusted out. If the wheel still spins well though, not going to have a major impact. I was thinking more along the lines of a badly set up V-Brakes, seen more than a few of those.

Do you know the type/model of the brakes? The calipers usually have one or two rings/bolts for adjusting the pad position. However, the rotor can be warped too, but it may be possible to true it. Your LBS may be able to help you with that. Slight rubbing like that won't make your ride that much harder though.

Simple brakes such as Hayes MX1 allow only to adjust one pad, Avid BB7 allow adjustments of both. Also, proper centering of the caliper over the rotor is important. Avid suggests 2/3: rotor closer to the inside, stationary pad.

As mentioned above: hard, smooth tires and proper riding position make the biggest difference.

Adam

Adam, it's a Tektro "cable-actuated" front disc brake; that's all it says on GT's website...

A slight noise as you describe is common, depending on the brake, it can sometimes be adjusted out. If the wheel still spins well though, not going to have a major impact. I was thinking more along the lines of a badly set up V-Brakes, seen more than a few of those.

I'm hearing this sound while I'm riding, and while it's annoying, if I spin the tire, there may be very little resistance, if any...

I'm hearing this sound while I'm riding, and while it's annoying, if I spin the tire, there may be very little resistance, if any...

Discs rely on mechanical advantage in the mechanism for stopping power, unlike rim brakes which have their mechanical advantage in their position at the rim. You won't notice any drag at all when your'e riding, but yeah, the noise is annoying as hell.

Cable discs have about four adjustments: caliper position, cable tension, fixed pad position and the fourth is that you can use an adjustable wrench to slightly bend the rotor to get it nice and straight if it's only rubbing at part of it's rotation. Check this out if you need to do it yourself: http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=124

Mechanical discs are a snap to adjust, once you get the hang of it.

What would enhance the performance of my mountain bike for asphalt-only journeys?

Another member here, Platypius, said this about that on another forum.


Putting slicks on a mountain bike is like putting a dress on your best friend Bob. He still won’t look like a woman, and he won’t ride like one either.—Platypius (http://www.coveredbridgecyclery.com/)

I think that sums it up nicely.

Eat your Wheaties, practice hills, and if that still doesn't work, get a 32 or 34 tooth big cog on the rear.

Another member here, Platypius, said this about that on another forum.



I think that sums it up nicely.

Eat your Wheaties, practice hills, and if that still doesn't work, get a 32 or 34 tooth big cog on the rear.

Looks like the most efficient way to do it is going to be to eat my Wheaties. It's the cheapest, too.

I'm not worried about removing some of the "function" out of its "mountain prowess," because it's probably going to encounter less mountain terrain than asphalt. Now, you're probably asking yourself, "Then why did you get a mountain bike?" Well, I got one because if I see anything "interesting" to tackle while on a ride, I want to go for it.

My wife and I go on vacation around 3-4 times per year, and sometimes we wind up in the mountains. While we've walked some trails, we'd like to step it up with some biking. We've never been "outdoorsy" type people, but after a very pleasant experience in Fayettville, WV last year, we've decided we'd like to pursue more "outdoorsy" adventures in the future.

So I'm back home in good ol' WV, and unlike my parents' neighborhood where I've been tearing around on the wife's new GT Avalanche 3.0 Disc on the street, there are a few more hills in my neighborhood. Now, before anyone tells me a mountain bike isn't the ideal cruiser for the streets, I was aware of that when we got it; in fact, I ordered a GT Avalanche 1.0 Disc for myself, which should be ready for pick-up by the end of the week.

Anyway, lemme cut to the chase here. I already know street tires would make a world of difference due to much less resistance/road friction than a mountain bike's knobby tires, but I figured that out of 24 gears to choose from, I could find AT LEAST one that I could climb a hill with without huffing and puffing halfway up, and then having to walk the rest of the way up the hill with my knees quivering under me. In fact, I finished my ride about 20-30 minutes ago, and I'm still quivering at the knees! :cry:

Yeah, I know, I'm out of shape; I know this, too. Maybe it's just going to take a while to build those muscles back up, and I'm just expecting too much, such as just jumping back on a bike like when I was 14 years old and have endless amounts of energy. :( Well, whatever the case, it ain't happening this time around! :cry:

So, any suggestions on making my ride a little bit easier, or am I just being a pre-madonna and a sissy?

LOL! Sounds like you are very unfit and weren't prepared for riding. If your knees are still shaking then that says it all. Once you are fit, then you should be able to go up most of those hills without changing too many gears if they are small hills. You didn't say how big they were.

Suggestions: Start riding every day and build up your distance by 2 kms each day until you are riding at least 10 kms. Begin to use some small weights to build up your anaerobic and resistance strength. If you are also overweight, then start to cut the amount of food that you eat and eat lots of protein foods. Make sure that you drink lots of water so that you don't get dehydrated.

It doesn't matter how good your bike is (within reason), but it is you that improves your performance and for cycling, you need strong legs and good aerobic fitness. Good luck.

LOL! Sounds like you are very unfit and weren't prepared for riding. If your knees are still shaking then that says it all. Once you are fit, then you should be able to go up most of those hills without changing too many gears if they are small hills. You didn't say how big they were.

Suggestions: Start riding every day and build up your distance by 2 kms each day until you are riding at least 10 kms. Begin to use some small weights to build up your anaerobic and resistance strength. If you are also overweight, then start to cut the amount of food that you eat and eat lots of protein foods. Make sure that you drink lots of water so that you don't get dehydrated.

It doesn't matter how good your bike is (within reason), but it is you that improves your performance and for cycling, you need strong legs and good aerobic fitness. Good luck.

Most people would probably get upset for you laughing at them, but in all honesty, it is quite laughable. These hills shouldn't even be considered hills. They're more like 25 degree inclines, but long, slight inclines. It really is funny indeed. :lol:

I wouldn't say I'm very unfit, but I am certainly unfit. I just expected a little bit more out of myself, and you are absolutely right, I wasn't prepared. I'm using a lot of muscles that I don't use a whole lot, and haven't used in 22 years. I think another problem is that I'm not sure which gear(s) I should be using. It's like learning to drive a car with a manual transmission and being unable to determine which gear is the proper gear for the best results. I spent a lot of time on those "hills" swapping gears, unable to find one that suited me. It was a bit frustrating, really; having 24 gears and being unable to choose one. All I could think was, "THIS THING HAS 24 DAMNED GEARS AND I CAN'T FIND A SINGLE ONE I LIKE!"

Ah, watch this.

http://bicycletutor.com/gear-shifting/

nykayaker had it right, when a hill is likely to be challenging, sometimes it is easier to shift into the smallest front ring before getting on the hill, then shifting the rear as it gets steeper. If this means that you're going to be cross-chaining, that is small front to small rear, this is not a good idea, but you can get away with it, while you're learning.

The thing to remember, is that however the gears work, you will find that the lever that makes the chain move to a bigger ring, will feel like you are moving the chain, the other will simply "release" the chain to a smaller ring. Where it gets confusing, is that in the front, a bigger gear is harder, while in the back, it's easier.

Ah, watch this.

http://bicycletutor.com/gear-shifting/

nykayaker had it right, when a hill is likely to be challenging, sometimes it is easier to shift into the smallest front ring before getting on the hill, then shifting the rear as it gets steeper. If this means that you're going to be cross-chaining, that is small front to small rear, this is not a good idea, but you can get away with it, while you're learning.

The thing to remember, is that however the gears work, you will find that the lever that makes the chain move to a bigger ring, will feel like you are moving the chain, the other will simply "release" the chain to a smaller ring. Where it gets confusing, is that in the front, a bigger gear is harder, while in the back, it's easier.

If I'm going small gear to small gear, how would I be cross-chaining? The small gears would be on the outside, lined up parallel, wouldn't they? Also, couldn't cross-chaining mess up a chain?

If you are in the small front ring ( inner ) and small rear cog, ( outer ) if you look at the bike, the chain is running from the outside of the bike at the back, to the inside of the bike at the front, cross-chaining. It's not good, for the chain, but it should be able to take it, it'll just increase wear on the chain and gears.

As I said, not recommended, but if it makes it possible for you to get up the hills while you are building your strength and gear shifting skills, well, chains and cogs are wear items.

If you are in the small front ring ( inner ) and small rear cog, ( outer ) if you look at the bike, the chain is running from the outside of the bike at the back, to the inside of the bike at the front, cross-chaining. It's not good, for the chain, but it should be able to take it, it'll just increase wear on the chain and gears.

As I said, not recommended, but if it makes it possible for you to get up the hills while you are building your strength and gear shifting skills, well, chains and cogs are wear items.

Ah, okay, I get what you're sayin'. I'm not interested in putting unneeded stress on parts. I'd rather eat my humble pie and just walk my bike up a hill... :cry:

Just keep trying. It doesn't get any easier, but you'll go faster. The biggest thing is to make sure your saddle is the proper height for full leg extension so you don't damage your knees. In a few weeks you'll probably have increased the miles enough to notice the benefit of slick tires.

Your bike doesn't actually have 24 gears, more like about 12 with some that repeat themselves. Changing the front chainring is like jumping two or three gears in the back. Start in about 2 in the front and five in the rear, go up to 3 in the front for downhills and down to 1 in the front for uphills and fine tune your cadence with the rear. As you get stronger you'll probably be pushing bigger gears, but you need to start somewhere.

Just keep trying. It doesn't get any easier, but you'll go faster. The biggest thing is to make sure your saddle is the proper height for full leg extension so you don't damage your knees. In a few weeks you'll probably have increased the miles enough to notice the benefit of slick tires.

Your bike doesn't actually have 24 gears, more like about 12 with some that repeat themselves. Changing the front chainring is like jumping two or three gears in the back. Start in about 2 in the front and five in the rear, go up to 3 in the front for downhills and down to 1 in the front for uphills and fine tune your cadence with the rear. As you get stronger you'll probably be pushing bigger gears, but you need to start somewhere.

Yeah, maybe it's just because I was younger that it was easier to push a GT Pro Performer up a hill; less rolling resistance from the lighter and smaller tires, maybe? Or maybe it was because I was 22 years younger! :cry:

Regarding saddle height, the salesman told me that the proper height was so that only the tops of the balls of my feet or my toes touched the ground. This is what I've been adhering to.

Be patient, don't get discouraged. Like anything it takes time and some effort to improve your endurance, especially on hills. Give it a few weeks and you'll be climbing then what you're walking now.

Slicks on a mtb will make you happier on the road. Ritchey TomSlick is a nice tire. You can also get some semi-smooth tires that will roll nice on the road but still work decent on DRY trails. No names come to mind, so you'll have to look around for those yourself.

As was said earlier, get in your easier gears before you start climbing. Climb at a walking pace if you have to - you'll get faster eventually.

As for your brakes -- not sure how to adjust Tektros specifically, but here is a great link on how to adjust Avid BB5's:

http://bluecollarmtb.com/2006/10/30/how-to-dial-in-avid-bb5-mechanical-disc-brakes/

That method works perfectly - I've done it several times. If your bike is new, have your shop do the adjustments.

Be patient, don't get discouraged. Like anything it takes time and some effort to improve your endurance, especially on hills. Give it a few weeks and you'll be climbing then what you're walking now.

Slicks on a mtb will make you happier on the road. Ritchey TomSlick is a nice tire. You can also get some semi-smooth tires that will roll nice on the road but still work decent on DRY trails. No names come to mind, so you'll have to look around for those yourself.

As was said earlier, get in your easier gears before you start climbing. Climb at a walking pace if you have to - you'll get faster eventually.

As for your brakes -- not sure how to adjust Tektros specifically, but here is a great link on how to adjust Avid BB5's:

http://bluecollarmtb.com/2006/10/30/how-to-dial-in-avid-bb5-mechanical-disc-brakes/

That method works perfectly - I've done it several times. If your bike is new, have your shop do the adjustments.

The easier gears to pedal uphill in would be the smaller/tighter gears, right? Is it the same concept on a bike as with a car; the lower gear, the more pull?

Yeah, maybe it's just because I was younger that it was easier to push a GT Pro Performer up a hill; less rolling resistance from the lighter and smaller tires, maybe? Or maybe it was because I was 22 years younger! :cry:

Regarding saddle height, the salesman told me that the proper height was so that only the tops of the balls of my feet or my toes touched the ground. This is what I've been adhering to.

Well, the salesman is wrong. Here is how you get a starting saddle height:

1. In stocking feet, stand gently against a wall with your feet about 12 inches apart.

2. Have your wife jam a large hardcover book about one inch thick up into your crotch so to the point you think your feet are getting light.

3. Put a mark on the wall at the top of the book.

4. That is your pubic bone height, example, mine is 86cm. Multiply that number by .883 (Lemond Saddle Height Formula) and the result is going to be very close for your saddle height. For me the result is 75.9cm. Set your saddle, measuring from the center of the crank to the top of the saddle along the seat tube. Lock it in, adjust up or down slightly from here to account for the size of your feet, pedals, shoes etc.

If you can touch on the balls of your feet, the saddle is too low. I bet. Or ignore me and continue to waddle up the hill.

Focus on your breathing. The easiest way to tire yourself on a tough stretch is to start huffing and puffing. The hard breathing will tire you out in no time. Just relax, focus on breathing in through your nose, and out through your mouth. The rest will come naturally. Once you get your breathing right, your body just kind of creates its own rhythm, and makes the ride much easier.

Ah, okay, I get what you're sayin'. I'm not interested in putting unneeded stress on parts. I'd rather eat my humble pie and just walk my bike up a hill... :cry:

I think they're giving you the wrong idea. When you want a low gear you shift into the small-small combinations, which don't put unneeded stress on anything. It's what you're supposed to do. What they're suggesting is a different process of shifting, not a different gear, in order to avoid the sudden change you get when you shift to the small ring in front.

When you cross-chain you're using an easy gear in the front with a hard gear in the back (or vice-versa) and they cancel each other out. The only reasons to be cross-chaining are if you have a compact double (which is not what you have) or if you don't know how to shift. Today at the bike rack I counted 5 out of 7 geared bikes locked up that were completely cross-chained, so I'm guessing most people are in the latter group.

Well, the salesman is wrong. Here is how you get a starting saddle height:

1. In stocking feet, stand gently against a wall with your feet about 12 inches apart.

2. Have your wife jam a large hardcover book about one inch thick up into your crotch so to the point you think your feet are getting light.

3. Put a mark on the wall at the top of the book.

4. That is your pubic bone height, example, mine is 86cm. Multiply that number by .883 (Lemond Saddle Height Formula) and the result is going to be very close for your saddle height. For me the result is 75.9cm. Set your saddle, measuring from the center of the crank to the top of the saddle along the seat tube. Lock it in, adjust up or down slightly from here to account for the size of your feet, pedals, shoes etc.

If you can touch on the balls of your feet, the saddle is too low. I bet. Or ignore me and continue to waddle up the hill.

Okay, I'll get her to do that when she gets home from work this evening.


Focus on your breathing. The easiest way to tire yourself on a tough stretch is to start huffing and puffing. The hard breathing will tire you out in no time. Just relax, focus on breathing in through your nose, and out through your mouth. The rest will come naturally. Once you get your breathing right, your body just kind of creates its own rhythm, and makes the ride much easier.

I just got back from a short spin around the block, and when I did start huffing and puffing, I did exactly that; control and relax my breathing. I did find it to ease things up. It sort of happened naturally.


I think they're giving you the wrong idea. When you want a low gear you shift into the small-small combinations, which don't put unneeded stress on anything. It's what you're supposed to do. What they're suggesting is a different process of shifting, not a different gear, in order to avoid the sudden change you get when you shift to the small ring in front.

When you cross-chain you're using an easy gear in the front with a hard gear in the back (or vice-versa) and they cancel each other out. The only reasons to be cross-chaining are if you have a compact double (which is not what you have) or if you don't know how to shift. Today at the bike rack I counted 5 out of 7 geared bikes locked up that were completely cross-chained, so I'm guessing most people are in the latter group.

Ah, yes, I locked up a chain early last week when I was test-riding a bike. I had no clue what I was doing.

What I did this time while climbing was keep the front gear in the largest gear and the rear gear in the smallest gear; the furthest outer gear on each "sprocket." It did make my trek uphill a bit easier. This time, I wasn't hunting for gears while climbing the hill, which could be what made such a big difference. While I won't say I didn't breathe a little bit heavy, this did simplify things. Now, once I get down a thorough understanding of how to operate the gears, I think it'll just be a matter of building up the leg muscles.

to answer the OP's original question, yeah.... you're being a sissy. Now, get out there & pedal faster.

to answer the OP's original question, yeah.... you're being a sissy. Now, get out there & pedal faster.

I huffed, and I puffed, and I nearly blew my house down! Then, I huffed and I puffed some more...and I'm paying for it. :cry:

More huffing and puffing tomorrow... :thumb:

Another member here, Platypius, said this about that on another forum.

Putting slicks on a mountain bike is like putting a dress on your best friend Bob. He still won’t look like a woman, and he won’t ride like one either.—Platypius

I think that sums it up nicely.


I have to disagree strongly with Platypius. It doesn't make a mountain bike into a road bike, but it definitely makes a mountain bike a better street bike. More comfortable, smoother ride and better handling.

Remember Rated Z. In practicing hills, you don't have to go all the way up. You can stop and take a break, or take a fun run back to the bottom. Just don't give up.

We have no idea what you think of as a "hill". It might be interesting to indicate the actual address of this "hill". I'm assuming that you are using your lowest gears.


In West Virginia, hill might mean HILL. I'v driven (not ridden) there, and if the speed limit on a curve is 25, I do not suggest you try it at 26 unless you are very confident.

The easier gears to pedal uphill in would be the smaller/tighter gears, right? Is it the same concept on a bike as with a car; the lower gear, the more pull?

The lowest gears are when the chain is to the left. This means the smallest front chainring is lower (easier) and the largest rear sprocket is lower (easier).

There tends to be overlap in the gears in the middle. A gear calculator (sheldonbrown.com) allows you to know exactly what gears are what.


What I did this time while climbing was keep the front gear in the largest gear and the rear gear in the smallest gear; the furthest outer gear on each "sprocket." It did make my trek uphill a bit easier.
This is backwards. These are gears for high speeds, not hill climbing.


This time, I wasn't hunting for gears while climbing the hill, which could be what made such a big difference.

Before you get to the hill, shift to the lowest (smallest) front gear and shift the rear to a higher gear. That way, you can just shift your rear derailler as you climb and things get harder (if you need to). It's easier and faster to shift the rear derailler than it is the front.

The general idea is to keep your pedals rotating at 60+ RPM (this number is called "cadence"). You pick your gear to match your cadence. It is possible that some hills might be too steep for you to be able to pedal at 60+RPM in your lowest gear. In that situation, you might have to walk.

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In West Virginia, hill might mean HILL. I'v driven (not ridden) there, and if the speed limit on a curve is 25, I do not suggest you try it at 26 unless you are very confident.
I suspect that the OP isn't talking about those kinds of "hills"!

most MTBs have their saddles too low. also I find that using them on the road is absurdly tiring and entirely the wrong machine for the job.

I have to disagree strongly with Platypius. It doesn't make a mountain bike into a road bike, but it definitely makes a mountain bike a better street bike. More comfortable, smoother ride and better handling.

Remember Rated Z. In practicing hills, you don't have to go all the way up. You can stop and take a break, or take a fun run back to the bottom. Just don't give up.

Yes, I realize this, but it's much more confidence-inspiring to make it to the top of the hill. Then, I can get off my bike and do the "Rocky Dance." :D


In West Virginia, hill might mean HILL. I'v driven (not ridden) there, and if the speed limit on a curve is 25, I do not suggest you try it at 26 unless you are very confident.

That doesn't sound like me quite yet, and I certainly wouldn't attempt it on a mountain bike. :)


The lowest gears are when the chain is to the left. This means the smallest front chainring is lower (easier) and the largest rear sprocket is lower (easier).

There tends to be overlap in the gears in the middle. A gear calculator (sheldonbrown.com) allows you to know exactly what gears are what.


This is backwards. These are gears for high speeds, not hill climbing.



Before you get to the hill, shift to the lowest (smallest) front gear and shift the rear to a higher gear. That way, you can just shift your rear derailler as you climb and things get harder (if you need to). It's easier and faster to shift the rear derailler than it is the front.

The general idea is to keep your pedals rotating at 60+ RPM (this number is called "cadence"). You pick your gear to match your cadence. It is possible that some hills might be too steep for you to be able to pedal at 60+RPM in your lowest gear. In that situation, you might have to walk.


Okay, I'm a bit confused now. When I'm referring to the "low" gear, I'm referring to the smaller gears. I used the largest gear on the sprocket (where pedals are located) and I used the smallest gear that is located on the rear wheel. Are you saying I should have been doing the opposite?


most MTBs have their saddles too low. also I find that using them on the road is absurdly tiring and entirely the wrong machine for the job.

No, mountain bikes are not the ideal bikes for the road, but we will be encountering off-road terrain, hence the reason we got mountain bikes. There are asphalt paths we will be riding a bit, but we also want to ride some rougher terrain. I'm not looking to turn a mountain bike into a street bike, just a few ideas to make the job on the asphalt a little easier.

Putting slicks on a mountain bike is like putting a dress on your best friend Bob. He still won’t look like a woman, and he won’t ride like one either.—Platypius

I got quite a laugh out of that. :thumb:

It's quite true for skinny 1.0-1.5" slicks.

However, some of my fave rides are about 70% road and 30% trail. I have some Tioga Factory XC Slicks at 1.85" and recently scored some folding bead Kenda K-Rad 1.9's that actually measure about 1.75" on the rim. Neither has much in the way of knobs but both roll really fast on the road.

They're a blast on my pure XC hardtail. 17-18 mph on 8 miles of pavement to the Logan River Trail, just enough traction to handle 6 miles of hardpack, pavement, dirt, pavement, a technical downhill section, stop for a cold one at the local tavern, pavement, dirt, and pavement back home. I can also take my cyclocross commuter but the hardtail is more fun.

Yes, I realize this, but it's much more confidence-inspiring to make it to the top of the hill. Then, I can get off my bike and do the "Rocky Dance." :D



That doesn't sound like me quite yet, and I certainly wouldn't attempt it on a mountain bike. :)



Okay, I'm a bit confused now. When I'm referring to the "low" gear, I'm referring to the smaller gears. I used the largest gear on the sprocket (where pedals are located) and I used the smallest gear that is located on the rear wheel. Are you saying I should have been doing the opposite?





This is incorrect, small(er) up front, big(er) in the back is lower gearing.

You are selecting your gears incorrectly and that is why you are crossing your chain line--don't do that.

You don't actually have all those gears, that is advertising copy or theoretical, you only have about half as many as you think that are practical and do not closely repeat.

most MTBs have their saddles too low. also I find that using them on the road is absurdly tiring and entirely the wrong machine for the job.

This is incorrect, saddle height is set/adjusted irrespective of the type of bicycle, though some mtb bikes do have saddles that can be dropped for downhill.

[QUOTE=RatedZ;10632488]


Okay, I'm a bit confused now. When I'm referring to the "low" gear, I'm referring to the smaller gears. I used the largest gear on the sprocket (where pedals are located) and I used the smallest gear that is located on the rear wheel. Are you saying I should have been doing the opposite?



QUOTE]

When climbing a hill you should do the opposite of what you are doing. Use the small chainring (located at the pedals) and a larger sprocket (located at the center of the rear wheel) this should make climbing the hill easier.

Okay, I'm a bit confused now. When I'm referring to the "low" gear, I'm referring to the smaller gears. I used the largest gear on the sprocket (where pedals are located) and I used the smallest gear that is located on the rear wheel.

Some basic terminology.

The thing your pedals are attached to is the "crankset". The "gears" on the crankset are "chainrings". The "gears" on the rear are "sprockets".

When people say "gear", they usually mean "gear ratio", which is a particular combination of the front and rear "gears".

"Low" gear (gear ratio) is for "low" speeds; "high" gear (gear ratio) is for "high" speeds.

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Larger chainring (in the front) is "higher"; smaller chainring is "lower". Smaller sprocket in the rear is "higher"; larger sprocket is "lower".

Smaller is lower in the front. Smaller is higher in the rear. It's reversed between the front and rear.

The simpler rule is the following:

The chainrings/sprockets on the inside/left are lower; the ones on the outside/right are higher.



Are you saying I should have been doing the opposite?
Yes. Doing it the way you said you do, you should have found it harder to pedal.

The idea is to pick the gear so that you pedal (turn the crank) at about 60 (or more) RPM.

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Check out:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/

It sounds like conditioning. Just work up to distance/hills slowly. The last thing you want to do is burn out or get injured. In a month, you won't even notice the hills.

On a mountain bike, you have something like 22, 32, and 44 teeth on the front (the chainrings), and the rear sprockets will range from 11 to 32. The "highest" gearing is 44 front, 11 rear for a ratio of 44:11 or 4.0:1. The wheel will turn 4 revolutions for each revolution of the crank. The "lowest" ratio will be 22 front, 32 rear for for a ratio of 22:32 or 0.6875:1. The wheel will make only 0.6875 of a revolution for each revolution of the crank. For a given situation, the force required at the pedal will be about 5.8 times greater in the highest gear than in lowest. For a given "cadence" (rate of pedaling), the speed of the bike in "high" will be about 5.8 times the speed in "low". To go uphill, use smaller chainring and/or bigger rear sprocket. To go faster downhill, use larger chainring and/or smaller rear sprocket,

[QUOTE=RatedZ;10632488]
Okay, I'm a bit confused now. When I'm referring to the "low" gear, I'm referring to the smaller gears. I used the largest gear on the sprocket (where pedals are located) and I used the smallest gear that is located on the rear wheel. Are you saying I should have been doing the opposite?



When climbing a hill you should do the opposite of what you are doing. Use the small chainring (located at the pedals) and a larger sprocket (located at the center of the rear wheel) this should make climbing the hill easier.

Okay, I tried that and the cranks were really, really loose; almost like I was "freewheeling." I didn't get anywhere. My legs moved like lightning, but there wasn't any "pull" at the wheels. The bike just basically stopped on the hill.

Now, I'm really confused. I've tried both ways and with the "crankset gear" on the LARGE sprocket and the rear wheel gear on the SMALL sprocket (outside gears for each) I had some pull. Doing it the other way resulted in nothing but really, really loose cranks. :cry:

[QUOTE=cyclist2000;10632604]Okay, I tried that and the cranks were really, really loose; almost like I was "freewheeling." I didn't get anywhere. My legs moved like lightning, but there wasn't any "pull" at the wheels. The bike just basically stopped on the hill.

Now, I'm really confused. I've tried both ways and with the "crankset gear" on the LARGE sprocket and the rear wheel gear on the SMALL sprocket (outside gears for each) I had some pull. Doing it the other way resulted in nothing but really, really loose cranks. :cry:No, you had very little "pull"...you needed more force at the pedals to get "pull" at the wheel, which is what actually moves you and the bike. If the lowest gear is too low, just use something in between the highest and the lowest. You have a bunch of ratios to choose from...pick one where neither pedal speed nor pedal force is too high or too low.

Start with using the middle chainring and something near the middle of the set of rear sprockets for cruising on level ground. Adjust your gearing higher or lower depending on the conditions.

[QUOTE=cyclist2000;10632604]



Okay, I tried that and the cranks were really, really loose; almost like I was "freewheeling." I didn't get anywhere. My legs moved like lightning, but there wasn't any "pull" at the wheels. The bike just basically stopped on the hill.

Now, I'm really confused. I've tried both ways and with the "crankset gear" on the LARGE sprocket and the rear wheel gear on the SMALL sprocket (outside gears for each) I had some pull. Doing it the other way resulted in nothing but really, really loose cranks. :cry:

Dude!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! What are you talking about, "pull" etc? I don't know about any pull, the smaller the diameter of the rear sprocket the higher (faster) the gear. On the front, the smaller the diameter of the chain ring the lower (slower) the gear ratio.

No wonder you cannot get up the itsy bitsy hill, Hades man, you are in highest gear!

If you've got an LBS or know another cyclist in your area go to them. They can show you what we're trying to tell you about gear selection, and seeing it demonstrated will make a lot more sense than us trying to tell you. Especially since this discussion seems to have some difficulties with some of the definitions.

Dude!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! What are you talking about, "pull" etc? I don't know about any pull, the smaller the diameter of the rear sprocket the higher (faster) the gear. On the front, the smaller the diameter of the chain ring the lower (slower) the gear ratio.

No wonder you cannot get up the itsy bitsy hill, Hades man, you are in highest gear!

I'm not sure what's being confusing here. When I'm talking about "pull," I'm talking about tension when I pedal; the cranks are harder to turn. I don't want the cranks so loose that i can pedal with absolutely no effort whatsoever. The easier to pedal, the HIGHER the gear, and the harder to pedal, the LOWER the gear, correct? When I'm pedaling up a hill, I'm using the LARGEST gear on the crankset and the SMALLEST gear on the rear wheel. Is this the correct way of doing this?