Foo - Straight Razor selection questions

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CliftonGK1
04-28-10, 04:22 PM
So I hacked off my beard a few weeks ago, and I'm looking to go back to a straight razor instead of the disposables I'm currently using. It's been many years since I've used a straight razor, and the one I had is long gone, lost in a move somewhere. The one I had was a gift, so I knew nothing about the specifications on it, and I need some guidance on selecting a new one.
If I've read correctly, stainless blades hold their hone longer. If this is correct, then I'll be looking at stainless blades.
What about the difference in point? What is a more comfortable point for edging around a moustache: Spike point, French Point, Classic (rounded?)
What is the difference between a Hollow Ground and Extra Hollow Ground blade?
There's a numbering system I don't understand: 4/8, 5/8, 6/8... I can only assume they're a measurement of blade dimensions in some way.
DOVO vs. Thiers-Issard - For blades in the similar price range (say $175 - $225), which would you chose and why?
Just out of curiosity: What about a Zowada or Hart Steel razor could possibly make it worth a 4 figure price tag? Not that I could afford it, but can it really be a 5x better shaving experience than a modestly priced Issard razor?
Hida Yanra
04-29-10, 02:41 PM
*bump*
I've been threatening to go this route for a few years - any other folks out there doing this?
I would ask a lumberjack.
Straight razors seem pretty anachronistic in this day and age.
Have you tried a modern "safety" razor? They work pretty darn well IMO.
CliftonGK1
04-29-10, 04:20 PM
Straight razors seem pretty anachronistic in this day and age.
Have you tried a modern "safety" razor? They work pretty darn well IMO.
It's not about whether it works well. I have an adjustable double-edged safety razor which I use for my face when I'm at home. I'll bring that one to work and keep the straight razor at home. Currently I have the safety razor at home for my face, and disposables for my head. I use disposables for both at work.
In an "instant, disposable gratification" world, the straight razor is about the process of shaving. You don't just shake a can of foam, scrape your face and toss the razor in the trash. It's like tying your own fishing flies or handrolling a cigarette; sure there are faster and easier ways to reach the same end, but the means are far less satisfying.
Over the years I've been trying to pack more and more into every day, to the point that trying to get everything accomplished doesn't leave me the time to enjoy much of what I'm doing. I rush through meals, I run through my errands, chores are just that; chores... instead of appreciating the end result (a clean kitchen, organized desk, whatever) all I'm thinking about is how little time the task is going to leave me for whatever it is I have next on my list.
It's time I slow the hell down and start appreciating things.
nathan84318
04-29-10, 05:18 PM
You cant go wrong with Dovo or Thiers-Issard, both make good quality blades. I own two Dovo's myself. If you have the money Zowada makes some good blades, but their priced anywhere from 800 to 3000 dollars. If you do go Dovo and want a vintage one, the one made by Fritz Bracht are an excellent choice. Check out www.classicshaving.com, straightrazorplace.com, and badgerandblade.com for more info than you could imagine.
When you shave with a straight and compare it to today fancy multiblade razors, you see that simple is better, plus the total cost is significantly cheaper not having to buy blades every month, plus the old soap and brush last up to 3 months and smells alot nicer.
CliftonGK1
04-29-10, 06:25 PM
You cant go wrong with Dovo or Thiers-Issard, both make good quality blades. I own two Dovo's myself. If you have the money Zowada makes some good blades, but their priced anywhere from 800 to 3000 dollars. If you do go Dovo and want a vintage one, the one made by Fritz Bracht are an excellent choice. Check out www.classicshaving.com, straightrazorplace.com, and badgerandblade.com for more info than you could imagine.
I've been looking at Classic Shaving over their selection of DOVO blades. They're reasonably priced and have a good history. So any insights on my questions above? (Point, grind and size differences in blades?)
nathan84318
04-29-10, 06:47 PM
If you havent used one in a while i would stick with the rounded point, with a straight point inexperience can lead to a good little nick. In terms of grind stick with a hollow ground unless you have excessively thick facial hair then use a wedge. 38, 5/8 is the size of the width of the blade. Size of the blade is up to you, i personally use a 5/8 as it is the best compromise in not being to thin and not to wide. The blades I have are the Dovo Snakewood and the Pearlex, both good choices. Just make sure you get some good soap or creme, not the stuff in a can, a good badger brush, and a good quality strop. If you have any more questions just shoot me a PM.
MTBLover
04-29-10, 07:12 PM
Although I haven't used a straight edge in years, I agree that there's nothing like it. It's an experience, not a chore. I used to use Crabtree and Evelyn's lavender or sandalwood shaving cream (came in a plastic tub) and between that and the bushy badger brush, I actually looked forward to shaving every AM.
I'd add that it would be good to include a Fensler's Ruby Hone along with the strop.
I always assumed Razor was heterosexual, but I had no idea that it would determine how he had to shave.
I always assumed Razor was heterosexual, but I had no idea that it would determine how he had to shave.
:D
http://www.nancyboy.com/images/3085505941_79c55afeec.jpg
Swamper
04-29-10, 09:06 PM
There is a world of information on badgerandblade.com.
Several people will have the answer to any question you have. More than likely, there are answers to questions you didn't even know you had.
My take on it is "if you have to explain using a straight razor, they won't understand".
Joel of the Badger & Blade forum is kinda like the Tom Stormcrow of that site and has great info on straights. Here is the link (http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php?p=887138) . That forum also has crafted individuals that will make and sell fine custom razors, give them a shot.
**Sorry for the poor phone pics**
Stainless do hold it's hone longer and is rust resistant. Being a harder metal, you will spend a few more minutes at the honing stone. Not a bad trade-off for a nice blade. I use carbon steel with no problems at all as far as rusting.
My round tip:
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b396/Gordo_Ruckus/Foo/s3.jpg
Is definately more comfortable than my spike point:
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b396/Gordo_Ruckus/Foo/s2.jpg
The spike, for me, not being too much more adapted to fine work than the round tip and the sharp spike is more prone to gouge your face if you aren't careful. This is, of course, a matter of preference and many people will swear to the opposite.
The hollow grind refers to the curvature of the blade. Most blade nowadays are extra hollow grind but the larger razors will have more of a hollow grind. This curvature makes for better perservation of the blade and ease of sharpening of the edge. It also provides a better, thin foil edge for better shaving.
Extra hollow grind:
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b396/Gordo_Ruckus/Foo/s4.jpg
The numbering system refers to the width of the blade in terms of inches.
My thinnest blade is a 5/8s of an inch:
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b396/Gordo_Ruckus/Foo/s5.jpg
My widest blade is a 7/8s of an inch:
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b396/Gordo_Ruckus/Foo/s6.jpg
Either of the quality name razors listed above are good choices, I would pick Dovo only because it seems to be the brand most readily available, but that's a personal choice as is all the topics listed above.
Ernest
CliftonGK1
04-29-10, 11:00 PM
Nathan and Big_e, thanks for the information. Armed with my new knowledge, I'm going to make a selection. Something stainless (most likely), 5/8 or 6/8 since they seem to be the most common widths, and definitely a rounded point for getting back into the practice.
I've already got a pure badger brush (I prefer a stiffer bristle because I've got thick whiskers), and I use pre-shave oils and soaps from The Art of Shaving.
(edit)
Decided on a Dovo stainless 5/8 hollow ground round point with olivewood scales and an Illinois #835 strop (dual leather/linen strop on single hanging pivot). I also purchased a fine (2-4 um) leather strop paste and a linen strop paste for edge polishing. It should all get here next week.
CFXMarauder
05-17-10, 11:52 PM
Nathan and Big_e, thanks for the information. Armed with my new knowledge, I'm going to make a selection. Something stainless (most likely), 5/8 or 6/8 since they seem to be the most common widths, and definitely a rounded point for getting back into the practice.
I've already got a pure badger brush (I prefer a stiffer bristle because I've got thick whiskers), and I use pre-shave oils and soaps from The Art of Shaving.
(edit)
Decided on a Dovo stainless 5/8 hollow ground round point with olivewood scales and an Illinois #835 strop (dual leather/linen strop on single hanging pivot). I also purchased a fine (2-4 um) leather strop paste and a linen strop paste for edge polishing. It should all get here next week.
So whats the verdict Clifton? Enjoying it or no? Ive been digging through B&B for about a month now and really wanna get something going..
Siu Blue Wind
05-18-10, 07:16 AM
I always assumed Razor was heterosexual, but I had no idea that it would determine how he had to shave.
You mean to tell me the pornostache didn't give you a clue?
CliftonGK1
05-18-10, 09:24 AM
So whats the verdict Clifton? Enjoying it or no? Ive been digging through B&B for about a month now and really wanna get something going..
I was surprised at how easily I picked the skill back up after 10+ years. The Dovo razor is a comfortable weight, the wood scales provide a reasonable grip, and being that it's a stainless blade I only need to strop it every 2nd or 3rd day to keep the edge perfect.
I'm still a little slow working around my chin; I've got a few scars and odd contours which make even using a safety razor a challenge there... but I haven't managed to do anything worse than a tiny nick, which is to be expected.
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