Classic & Vintage - 27 inch disc brake fork

I know this has been up a couple of years before, but I need an update.
I'm working on a Fuji mixte frame conversion to a modern(?) all-weather commuter.
I'd like to keep the 27 inch wheels, but I'd like to go to a disc front brake.
Anybody know of a 27 inch 1-inch diameter, threaded steerer tube, disc brake fork?
I certainly don't mind steel, but I'd prefer to have one from a manufacturer who at least claims to have considered the forces generated by a disc brake.
If you know someone who's jigged up to put disc brake mounts on a 27-inch fork, I'd be willing to try that as well. Unfortunately, forks are serious business so I would need someone who's done it before and won't damage the fork.
If you can answer that one, I'll be back with another....

Thanks,
Bugsy

Nothing stock and off the peg. Widespread use of 27" wheels for mid to low end bikes predate modern disc brakes by 15-20 years.

You may be able to ignore the 27" issue entirely since brake reach is a non issue. What matters is axle to fork crown shoulder distance. What is it the axle to crown distance on the bike with the 27" fork? What CX forks on the market have something close? If there's nothing close, then it's time to contact a frame builder and have one made. Expect it to be $3-400. It's not like they are building a frame for you.

A modern all weather commuter can be made without disc brakes too. Sturmey Archer makes drum brakes that are even more suitable for foul weather commuter riding.

Here's a $60 fork with disc tabs that will work just fine on an older 27" bike, I have on on my Schwinn Sports Tourer. There's really not any difference between a 27" fork and a 700C, tire differences will be the biggest factor.

http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=6995&category=4158

You'll have to switch to a threadless headset or see if you can have threads tapped on the steer tube..

IGH- the fork you post is 1 1/8" threadless. the OP needs a 1" threaded. He will not be able to fit the fork into the headtube of the frame, or more correctly, not be able to find a headset to mate the 2.
that would be pretty interesting though- a 1 1/8" threadless steerer in a 1" headtube.

I agree with velo-orange, a Sturmey Drum Brake Hub works very well in bad weather and under heavy load, and can even be had with a built-in dynamo to run a headlight. Plus you don't need a special fork

IGH- the fork you post is 1 1/8" threadless. the OP needs a 1" threaded....

Look again, it's available in both sizes. I have the 1" version on my 73 Schwinn Sports Tourer right now...he will have the change to a 1" threadless headset, as I stated above. He could also have the fork threaded (as I stated above also).

Do you really work for VO, seems like you're not really up on this stuff....

I love this place.
Thanks for the guidance - I hadn't even thought of using a drum brake, but it's a great idea. And the idea of a hub generator had already crossed my mind.
I'll check the dimensions on the current fork to make sure the CX fork will clear, but from the picture it's just what I was looking for. Going to a threadless headset wouldn't break my heart, either.
Just for those with the slightest interest, the back end will be a Shimano 8-speed internal (or the new 11-speed if it hits the market soon and will fit) with Gates belt drive.

Thanks for the excellent tips,
Bugsy

How are you going to get the belt onto the old frame?

I have a several SA drum brake hubs, they're OK dry weather brakes and a low cost way to eliminate rim brakes. IMHO, discs are better, worth the extra $$ and work, that's an individual decision. There are disc/generator hubs available from Shimano, SRAM and SON.

MR IGH- yes I am part of Velo Orange.

While I do know enough to get in some trouble around here I do not profess to be an expert in very last detail of the specification history of all bikes, components and accessories. and I hope no-one else does.

I took a glance at the link, out of laziness, not ignorance of bicycle knowledge. I should have investigated a little more closely, but I wasn't looking to buy or test their shopping cart for accuracy and inventory spread.

1" threadless headsets are available.

It's a major pain in the ass to thread steerers (esp cromoly steerers) and it's generally not recommended as a routine option. Maybe the steerer tube has the right wallthickness, maybe not. But yes, It can be done. I'm not going to do it, but YMMV.

I have a several SA drum brake hubs, they're OK dry weather brakes and a low cost way to eliminate rim brakes. IMHO, discs are better, worth the extra $$ and work, that's an individual decision. There are disc/generator hubs available from Shimano, SRAM and SON.

Anybody got comments on the 70mm vs the 90? If I do it, it will be the 90 dynamo hub.
The only experience I have with them is second hand - the people who have them on recumbent trikes seem to love them, and like the wet weather performance as well.


How are you going to get the belt onto the old frame?
Ah, that's the trick, isn't it? My LBS fabricator and I discussed a spline in the chainstay, but the preferred solution according to Gates is to cut a slot through the drop out, then add a washer with pins on each side of the cut that goes under the axle nut. Since I'll be using an internal hub, that seems the best option for me.

Anybody got comments on the 70mm vs the 90? If I do it, it will be the 90 dynamo hub.
The only experience I have with them is second hand - the people who have them on recumbent trikes seem to love them, and like the wet weather performance as well.

I have the Sturmey X-FDD, the 70mm and I use it on my Varsity Grocery Getter, the rear brake is a Shimano Nexus Roller Brake. That bike weighs at least 40 pounds just sitting still and routinely holds another 30 pounds of groceries/Stuff plus 200 pound me and the braking performance is probably the best of any of my rides; wet or dry.


the preferred solution according to Gates is to cut a slot through the drop out, then add a washer with pins on each side of the cut that goes under the axle nut.

Man that sounds freaky.

Anybody got comments on the 70mm vs the 90? If I do it, it will be the 90 dynamo hub....
I've only seen the steel front 90mm hub so far, nothing aluminum, no dynos, no rear hubs, I'm sure they're on the way. I've run the 70mm for years, it's nice, the advantage of the 90mm is heat dissipation, OTOH the 70mm does a a good job of shedding heat already.