Cyclocross - SRAM Red levers for Shimano 105 group?

I just bought a Cannondale CX9 105 and i love it.:thumb: But the ergonomics of the break-/gearlevers could be better i think.:notamused:

I was wondering, if mounting Red-series levers would work better...

Anyone has an opinion on this?

Im pretty new to this bikeworld btw...:)

I don't think you can use SRAM shifters with Shimano derailers.

Darn... But ist it just a matter of pulling the cable? Then the 105 will have to do - maybe change the breakpads to get a bit more breaking power that way.

Thanks for posting.

They use different ratios of cable pull.

Oh well... i guess i gotta start saving up for the intire groupset then.

Thanks again.

I really don't think the 105 levers would contribute to braking performance problems. Is that what you were saying?

Do some searching. Campy uses different ratios as well, but there are tricks (simple one's) to make it work perfectly. There may be the same tricks for SRAM shifters.

The word is brake.

All you have to replace are the levers and rear derailleur. Shimano front der will work fine with the SRAM lever.

Rival and Force are substantially less expensive than Red, only marginally heavier, and perform just as well (maybe better?).

There may be the same tricks for SRAM shifters.No.

Rival and Force are substantially less expensive than Red, only marginally heavier, and perform just as well (maybe better?).

Yeah, for the cost of just the Red shifters, you can prob. get Rival shifters, Rival RD and some new brake pads.

I really don't think the 105 levers would contribute to braking performance problems. Is that what you were saying?

What im trying to say is, that the brakeperformance could be better with better ergonomics than 105 - SRAM looks like they got a better design for braking hard.

What im trying to say is, that the brakeperformance could be better with better ergonomics than 105 - SRAM looks like they got a better design for braking hard.Having used both I'd say no. In either case, braking from the drops is much more secure than braking from the hoods.

If you like riding from the tops, you might find a pair of interrupter levers to be handy, especially on steep descents. [People seem to polarize on this issue.]

Switching from Shimano to SRAM just to improve braking performance would be silly.

Switching from Shimano to SRAM just to improve braking performance would be silly.

Its not exactly brake "performance" im after; 105 performs ok, but the position i have to have my hands in to give the brakes a good squeeze is a bit akward. I like to brake from the tops and control the bike best from there - thats why i want the ergonomics to be perfect from them.

Maybe i should go for the Rival levers - and rear der to follow as you say.

Can i also ask - what is the cheapest way to drop a little weight from the bike? Its a standard CX9 105 as i wrote. It weighs 9 kg - if i could get it to 8,5 it would be great. But damn, it is expensive business to bring it down :twitchy::)

Thanks for the advise.

...the position i have to have my hands in to give the brakes a good squeeze is a bit akward. I like to brake from the drops and control the bike best from there - thats why i want the drop ergonomics to be perfect from them.
I'd bet you could solve your hand position issues with a different bar. There are so many different shapes out there, one must be right for you.

...what is the cheapest way to drop a little weight from the bike? Its a standard CX9 105 as i wrote. It weighs 9 kg - if i could get it to 8,5 it would be great. But damn, it is expensive business to bring it down :twitchy::)
Same advice as with all bikes. For cost effectiveness, start with innertubes, then look at tires, then wheels.

I'd bet you could solve your hand position issues with a different bar. There are so many different shapes out there, one must be right for you. I agree with this. Or maybe not even a new bar, but just fiddle with the positioning of the levers and the tilt of the bar.
For cost effectiveness, start with innertubes, then look at tires, then wheels.I also agree with this. A good, light set of wheels, nothing compares with it.

Thx for the advise guys. Ive found a very cheap set of Rival components and a Red casette, so i couldnt say no - it will also loose me some of that weight. Then i must see about the ergonomics, when the group is installed.
Also looked at my rims, tubes and tires, and it turns out i can cut 300 grams(!) on tires and tubes alone. Fantastic :) Wheels will come later, the shimano rs10 rims are cheap, bit heavy, but good and strong.
Have a nice drive everybody:)