Bicycle Mechanics - Centurion LeMans RS Help
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06-02-10, 05:13 PM
Heya, I've posted here once before asking for the same thing... http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=561033
Sorry for the long wait, I've been busy with school n whatnot the funds had yet to materialize last summer, but I'm actually going through with it now... to start with, I'm kinda having trouble with figuring out what tires to buy. I've been lurking around and I found that the size is 700x23c or 622x23, what does that mean? Would one recommend that I buy online or should I find a shop? Also, what specific tires would one recommend? I'm looking to buy around $15 for each or around $30 for both. I'll mainly be riding on Miami pavement and occasionally through some Grass.
06-02-10, 05:23 PM
Sorry I lost interest at "Heya"
Do you have a mechanical question?
06-02-10, 11:10 PM
I'm kinda having trouble with figuring out what tyres to buy for my (idk what year) Centurion LeMans RS. I've been lurking around and I found that the size is 700x23c or 622x23, what does that mean? Would one recommend that I buy online or should I find a shop? Also, what specific tires would one recommend? I'm looking to buy around $15 for each or around $30 for both. I'll mainly be riding on Miami pavement and occasionally through some Grass. The wheels are the stock ones that came with it I think.
Is that not mechanical? I haven't explored much, I guess there's a wheel/tyre subforum or something, I'll look. I think I'll have more questions that are more mechanical as I go along anyways, so I figured that I'd put it here.
06-02-10, 11:32 PM
$30/pr is a tough price point on tires. If I had to choose something close to that level, I'd probably go with Continental Ultra Sports (http://www.biketiresdirect.com/pcousw/continental_ultra_sport_(wire_bead)_700c/pp.htm). You should have no trouble putting 700x25 tires on your bike, which would be my preference. But grass? I don't know about that.
... I'm kinda having trouble with figuring out what tires to buy....
Trying to find the "perfect "tire can take ages, and cost endless amount of money, And there's no telling how many people who'd question your judgement on it as well. But finding a rideable tire is quite easy, as long as you knew what was fitted the last time.
The Bead Seat Diameter has to match, or the tire will come off, or be (near) impossible to fit. In terms of width there's usually some flexibility, unless your frame has silly-tight clearances at fork crown and seat/chain stays, which is sometimes the case for more high end race frames.
.....the size is 700x23c or 622x23, what does that mean?
700C is a size reference, somewhat vaguely tied to the outside diameter of the wheel in its rideable configuration. 23 is approximate width. 622 is Bead Seat Diameter. Any tire with the same BSD as the rim can at least be mounted on that rim. 23 is again a width measurement. You'll get in trouble if you go too crazy with tire width vs rim width mismatch, but in terms if the tire staying on there's usually a fair bit of leeway. Frame/fork clearance can become an issue though.
...Would one recommend that I buy online or should I find a shop?
Best deals are usually found online, but then you'd have to wait for shipping and miss out on the chance of looking at the tread pattern beforehand ASO. In your price range it doesn't really matter much either way.
.... Also, what specific tires would one recommend? I really can't aswer that, as I'm not too fussy with what I run. I don't think there'd be much to choose from in your price range.
... I'll mainly be riding on Miami pavement .... mainly pavement + no racing = anything goes. You might want to look for ones that are reliably chunky to get some unintentional protection against road debris.
.... and occasionally through some Grass. Slick tires on (wet) grass can be very slick indeed. If you're not striving for "performance" I'd recommend a 28 (or a 32 if your frame/fork can take it) with some tread pattern.
06-03-10, 10:56 AM
Thanks! That explains a lot. I'm looking through websites for tires right now. When I say grass, I don't mean that I'll be offroading, I just mean that I might be forced off the road for sometime because of cars and what not. I don't want to get tires that get dicey with regards to flats around grass. Also, how should I go about purchasing a tube, will the same 700x25 measurement work in my search? I see some like these (http://www.amazon.com/Continental-Race-Light-18-25mm-Tube/dp/B0012VLD20/ref=sr_1_22?ie=UTF8&s=sporting-goods&qid=1275580090&sr=1-22), what do those measurements under select size mean?
..When I say grass, I don't mean that I'll be offroading, I just mean that I might be forced off the road for sometime because of cars and what not. I don't want to get tires that get dicey with regards to flats around grass.
Basically there are two types of flats that are most common:
1)something sharp poking a hole through tire and tube. Glass or other sharp shards is a usual culprit. The first line of defence is a tire that is difficult to pierce through the rolling surface.
2)so-called snake bites. They occur when you squish the tire flat and pinch the tube between rim and whatever you're riding on. The lower the pressure and the narrower the tire, the greater the risk.
Grass would lessen the risk of first kind, as small, sharp stuff can simply settle into the soil. OTOH grass can hide an uneven surface, and increase the risk for second kind. Still, on a daily basis I'd be more concerned about the risk of simply losing traction when running slicks on grass -even if you're just cutting across a green patch somewhere.
... Also, how should I go about purchasing a tube, will the same 700x25 measurement work in my search? Yeah. Tubes are stretchy, so one size tube will fit several sizes of tire. Being spot on is nice, but not required. Stuffing a bigger tube in a smaller tire is more of a hassle than the other way around. Try not to stray too far from the recommendation though.
.... I see some like these (http://www.amazon.com/Continental-Race-Light-18-25mm-Tube/dp/B0012VLD20/ref=sr_1_22?ie=UTF8&s=sporting-goods&qid=1275580090&sr=1-22), what do those measurements under select size mean?
They refer to the length of the valve "shaft". You need one that will raech through your rim. Some rims need longer shafts for the valve to protrude enough, other rims can run shorter. The style police will point finger and snicker at you if you run longer valves than needed.
Do note that there are tw main different type of valves, Presta and Schrader. Anyone who's ever inflated a car tyre will recognize a Schrader, but the Presta is another beast entirely. As long as your pump match your valve both do fine. Might be the case that the range of sizes you're looking at only come in Presta.
06-03-10, 07:52 PM
I think I'll be looking to make some purchases tomorrow, thanks for really detailed advice. A few more questions as I go along, some of them being: Would standard brake hoods fit on this bike? or do I have to match them with the same brand/size/type of brakes I have here?
06-03-10, 11:13 PM
Sorry for the double post, but I've narrowed down my choices for tire to these, any suggestions, better ideas, experiences?
...I've narrowed down my choices for tire to these, any suggestions, better ideas, experiences?
Haven't ridden any of them myself, but Schwalbe as a company has a good reputation. It's puncture protected as well. OTOH it's listed at 23 mm, which is kinda narrow to go on a bike which sounds like it's intended for utility riding.
For everyday purposes, and starting with a road bike, there's more merit to be had by going wide (depending on what rims and frame/fork clearance can take of course). More comfort(you can take the pressure down a little), less flats and better traction if you'd ever take it down a path or dirt road.
And in response to your other thread: No, I don't think this would make a particularly suitable winter bike, if by winter you mean something that will include snow and ice. Rim brakes always suffer under such adverse conditions, and I wonder if it'll have the space to fit some suitably knobbly and possibly studded tires.
Personally I don't like to ride drops when conditions get iffy.
IMO a better base for a winter bike is to pick up a MTB from somewhere, preferably a rigid. It'll take fenders and wide tires w/o complaining. And with a bit of luck you might even get disc brakes on it.
06-04-10, 10:24 PM
Thanks, but it looks like I'll be getting some Kenda Kontenders, its all my LBS has in stock for cheap. The next thing up is blue and doesn't really match with my bike... I'm considering getting it anyways. As for snow, I won't be taking this bike back up to school with me, I got a MTB off of one of my friends for cheap, and I end up walking to class when its horrible anyways. This will be my bike here at home for fun.
06-05-10, 04:55 PM
Well, I got a sweet deal off of my LBS! A WTB Solano and a WTB Camino Alto together for $40! Its mostly together now, I am just having a little trouble getting the bead to sit properly, any suggestions? I was reading this: http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-323988.html and I'm getting the idea that it isnt that big of a deal, is that right?
.. I am just having a little trouble getting the bead to sit properly, any suggestions? .. I'm getting the idea that it isnt that big of a deal, is that right?
That thread pretty much covered it. Manhandling/massaging, overinflation, give it some stretch time - can't really think of anything else to try.
In terms of safety - no. If it's the right size the tires will still stay on.
In terms of ride quality - it depends on road conditions and how sensitive you are. If the bumps in the road are bigger and more frequent than the deviation of the tire it's really hard to notice anything. Smooth roads and an alert rider, then the regularity of the bumps can be a tad annoying at speed.
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