Electric Bikes - Looking for best conversion kit

With my preferences below (and any better suggestions), where can I find the best kit, please?


●―Twist throttle - NOT pedal-first before it kicks in, I prefer choice of throttle only and/or pedal.
●―A LifePO4 battery.
●―20 mile range or more.
●―350 or 450 watt rear hub motor
●―short recharge time
●―Battery monitor
●―Front and rear brakes

Comments I agree with from other bikers:

“I would not use anything less then 500w/36v & lifepo4 battery” (Sounds good, but isn't necessary)
“I want to use it more like a low end scooter than a pedal assist.” (At times I would, yes)

Uhhh... What?

I think you should get the Ezee kit at http://ebikes.ca/store/store_ezee.php

It's great for hills. It will carry you up practically any hill without pedaling.

Angie,

Have you chosen what bike you're going to buy? Wheel size will play a role in what kit might be best. Truthfully, although there are a few hub motors for 700c wheels, many merchants advise against them. If I were you, I'd make sure to stick with 26" wheels. I ride a lot of dirt and gravel roads in the forest here and there's no way I'd want skinny 700c wheels on my bike.

FYI, if you're interested in saving money, keep your eyes on ecoforumz. The administrator there is in the process of trying to organize a group buy for the Currie conversion kit. Although it doesn't come with LIFEPO4, you can add that after the fact. It will be interesting if he can better the lowest price on the web, which is $279 with free shipping.

Angie,

FYI, if you're interested in saving money, keep your eyes on ecoforumz. The administrator there is in the process of trying to organize a group buy for the Currie conversion kit. Although it doesn't come with LIFEPO4, you can add that after the fact. It will be interesting if he can better the lowest price on the web, which is $279 with free shipping.

Angie, If I remember correctly you are on the shorter side around 5'2" or so. You might want to Google "Bike sizing" to help determine a correct size bike. Now that you are not looking for a manufacture built ebike the bike size problem should be a lot easier. I would think you would want something no bigger then in the 24" wheel size. If you choose a hub motor this will reduse your top speed but be better for hill climbing. The Ezip kit will fit a 24" nicely but there are a lot of great kits out there.

Over on Endless Sphere there's a fellow selling Tidalforce S-750 frames along with some spare parts. Its quite the DIYer project but one of those Tidalforce frames with an eZee front hub kit makes for a hell of a fine commuter. Powerful motor with a rock solid frame. I know because I just assembled two of them, one with my BionX kit and the other with my eZee kit.
Here's the frame sale thread:
https://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=10748
Here is the thread featuring customers builds:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=11765

El Duderino X , You say " one of those Tidalforce frames with an eZee front hub kit makes for a hell of a fine commuter. " Is there something about a "front hub" that is better then the rear hub?
Also, between the BionX kit an the eZee kit, was one easier to get going then the other?
In your opinion is one better then the other.

El Duderino X , You say " one of those Tidalforce frames with an eZee front hub kit makes for a hell of a fine commuter. " Is there something about a "front hub" that is better then the rear hub?
Also, between the BionX kit an the eZee kit, was one easier to get going then the other?
In your opinion is one better then the other.


As luck would have it, I am using an eZee hub on my trike and yesterday happened to pick up a trike for someone else with a BionX kit installed. I've been very happy with the eZee kit which is good because I thought it would better suit my needs.

On a regular bike, you can put on a front or rear hub. I would imagine the front is easier to install. But it requires forks that can handle the torque without the risk of catastrophic failure.

So which to choose? They are both good quality so it depends on your criteria.

Get the eZee and the associated compatible controller/battery of your choice if you:
- want more hill climbing torque
- want to start the motor from a standstill
- don't want any drag when not using the motor
- want to use a Cycle Analyst
- now, or later want to customize the setup
- different connectors, battery types/sizes, controllers, etc.
- like to put things together and understand more about how they work
- want to have the satisfaction and future repairability associated with the above

Get the BionX kit if you:
- want an easier, turn key installation
- want to use regeneration (only useful for hilly rides)
- want to easily adjust the level of assist out-of-the-box
- don't see yourself wanting to change the setup in future

So the eZee is a better choice for someone with any ability to work with bikes and wiring. It is just so much more flexible.

As luck would have it, I am using an eZee hub on my trike and yesterday happened to pick up a trike for someone else with a BionX kit installed. I've been very happy with the eZee kit which is good because I thought it would better suit my needs.

On a regular bike, you can put on a front or rear hub. I would imagine the front is easier to install. But it requires forks that can handle the torque without the risk of catastrophic failure.

So which to choose? They are both good quality so it depends on your criteria.

Get the eZee and the associated compatible controller/battery of your choice if you:
- want more hill climbing torque
- want to start the motor from a standstill
- don't want any drag when not using the motor
- want to use a Cycle Analyst
- now, or later want to customize the setup
- different connectors, battery types/sizes, controllers, etc.
- like to put things together and understand more about how they work
- want to have the satisfaction and future repairability associated with the above

Get the BionX kit if you:
- want an easier, turn key installation
- want to use regeneration (only useful for hilly rides)
- want to easily adjust the level of assist out-of-the-box
- don't see yourself wanting to change the setup in future

So the eZee is a better choice for someone with any ability to work with bikes and wiring. It is just so much more flexible.
Thanks Rob, very helpful, thinking of putting a eZee on my Marin Hybrid, never had anything to do with ebikes, yet :)

Wow, this is quite a response! I'm going to print them out and sort it all out, go to links provided, etc... that'll be my project for the day, I guess. MUCH thanks for all your suggestions.
I'm still teetering on just going for the ready-made iZip Zuma:

http://www.currietech.com/currie-technologies-izip-zuma-for-women-electric-bike.php (http://www.currietech.com/currie-technologies-izip-zuma-for-women-electric-bike.php)

With a 10% discount on top of their sale price at Family Scooter, I can get this bike for $1,529.10 and free S&H...... so I'm still going back 'n forth and my brain is a bit fried.

Thanks Rob, very helpful, thinking of putting a eZee on my Marin Hybrid, never had anything to do with ebikes, yet :)

You're welcome. I can add another item after trying the BionX kit last night:

Get the BionX kit if you:
- want quiet operation (no gear whine)

Hi Jimbo397,

rscamp summed up the differences between the eZee and BionX perfectly. My reasoning regarding using the combination of a Tidalforce frame with an eZee front hub for a commuter was so that I could use a Shimano alfine 8spd internally geared rear hub thus cutting down on some of the care and maintenance that a bike with front and rear deraillers requires when put through the rigors of regular, all-weather, four seasons commuting.
My Tidalforce/eZee/Shimano Alfine combo feels rock solid and damn near bulletproof without requiring (more) frequent (or fussy) adjustments or maintenance that my Tidalforce/BionX (w/8spd cassette & front and rear deraillers) bike requires. Not that there's anything wrong with that as the BionX/Tidalforce is also an absolute joy to ride.

I saw someone post http://www.goldenmotor.com/ when I asked about converting a small A-bike (lots of full options there)

I use the folding Pedego Unbrella 16 myself. (love it) fits in my closet at home

I have had a bad experience with the e- bike kit. paid $1,000. The kit was wired wrong. The long distance communication was a nightmare with the seller telling me that I was wiring it wrong. I finally found a local guy who told me that one of the cables was wired wrong. I got it all fixed and I payed the local guy some cash. Then the rim developed some cracks. I contacted the company and they told me that I should get it fixed. No mention of refund, no mention of replacement. I only rode the thing for 3 months.

I will go back to pedaling and am considering getting a moped for the long distance commutes...

I have a lifepo battery and now it is a piece of junk....

All I will say is buyer beware...

I have had a bad experience with the e- bike kit. paid $1,000. The kit was wired wrong. The long distance communication was a nightmare with the seller telling me that I was wiring it wrong. I finally found a local guy who told me that one of the cables was wired wrong. I got it all fixed and I payed the local guy some cash. Then the rim developed some cracks. I contacted the company and they told me that I should get it fixed. No mention of refund, no mention of replacement. I only rode the thing for 3 months.

I will go back to pedaling and am considering getting a moped for the long distance commutes...

I have a lifepo battery and now it is a piece of junk....

All I will say is buyer beware...

Your experience shows why it's so important for a consumer to actually do research and make an informed decision for all purchases. The old saying, "Caveat emptor" or "let the buyer beware" still applies. I spent a long time researching for a dependable and affordable conversion kit. I chose the Currie conversion kit because it had good reviews from real life users and a reputation for very good torque, which I need living west of Glacier National Park. It also was an affordable $279. I can't be happier with my purchase. Next month marks the one-year anniversary of my bike's conversion to an e-bike and I'm proud to say that I put more miles on my converted e-bike in that 12-month period than I did my truck (850 miles for my e-bike so far and 300 miles on my truck). I just built my own Thundersky LIFEPO4 pack this spring that has twice the amp hour ratings of the original OEM SLA battery that came with my kit--the LIFEPO4 pack is 24V 20AH, the OEM SLA is 24V 10AH. The added range and power is greatly appreciated. My original SLA is beginning to loose capacity and I'll build a second LIFEPO4 pack later this summer. So, my advice to potential e-bike and conversion kit buyers--research, research and research before you buy.

Here's a photo of my bike taken on a recent forest ride. One of my favorite things to do is explore the 2.2 million acre forest that I live in by bike--something that would have played havoc with my old runner's knees before I added the conversion kit.

http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL442/7447283/15664551/388821906.jpg

Ann, I took a closer look at your bike and I'm curious: where did you get the extensions to your handlebars? Are they sold as an accessory or is that one of your genius custom thingies?

Ann, I took a closer look at your bike and I'm curious: where did you get the extensions to your handlebars? Are they sold as an accessory or is that one of your genius custom thingies?

Angie,

They're bar ends and you should be able to pick them up at any bike store and possibly at Walmart. (I have inexpensive Bell mirrors on the bar ends, too.) I bought mine years ago before I left the D.C. area. Over the years, I've played around with how I've positioned them. Currently, I have them arranged so I can take a more upright position on long rides (I've made a simplistic cruise control for my thumb throttle, too). Here's a link that will give you an idea what they look like uninstalled. http://www.rei.com/category/4500799

Interesting. For what I paid for the iZip Zuma, I hope I won't need to be buying anything more too soon, but I may look into those bar ends. Thanks for the info. I'm not understanding why Samse considers his LifePO battery a "piece of junk." If you do, send it on over to me! I'm expecting delivery of the bike any day and I'm a nervous wreck, to say the least. Hope I did the right thing. I got a good deal on it, approx. $350 less than the price everywhere else and free S&H. ...Ann, seems to me you're in terrrific shape to ride all that terrain on tires I find are harder to pedal on.... I hope to get that healthy some day soon!

Interesting. For what I paid for the iZip Zuma, I hope I won't need to be buying anything more too soon, but I may look into those bar ends. Thanks for the info. I'm not understanding why Samse considers his LifePO battery a "piece of junk." If you do, send it on over to me! I'm expecting delivery of the bike any day and I'm a nervous wreck, to say the least. Hope I did the right thing. I got a good deal on it, approx. $350 less than the price everywhere else and free S&H. ...Ann, seems to me you're in terrrific shape to ride all that terrain on tires I find are harder to pedal on.... I hope to get that healthy some day soon!

Angie,

I don't think you'll need bar ends. The bike you bought has swept back handlebars that afford an upright position. My bike has straight handlebars, which are standard on mountain bikes. You do lean over some using them. I don't mind on short trips, but on long trips I like having the option to sit more upright for a portion of the trip.

As for batteries, a lot depends on the reliability of your vendor and the nature of the cells/battery construction. I would never buy a duct tape pack from ebay. There are just too many horror stories of people getting ripped off, receiving a non-working pack or a pack that quickly dies because of faulty cells and/or faulty welding if built with tabbed cells. One of the reasons I like the Thundersky cells is that they aren't welded, circular, tabbed cells.

http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL442/7447283/15664551/384975140.jpg

The US-based vendor I bought mine from also checks each cell and ensures that all cells in a pack are well-matched. You will be fine. Currie's battery should work well, but if you have any issues, they stand behind their products. Almost all e-bikers find that they want more battery power so you may decide you want an auxiliary battery. Just be careful about buying batteries off ebay. About the only reputable battery dealer on ebay is Ping.

Angie,

They're bar ends and you should be able to pick them up at any bike store and possibly at Walmart. (I have inexpensive Bell mirrors on the bar ends, too.) I bought mine years ago before I left the D.C. area. Over the years, I've played around with how I've positioned them. Currently, I have them arranged so I can take a more upright position on long rides (I've made a simplistic cruise control for my thumb throttle, too). Here's a link that will give you an idea what they look like uninstalled. http://www.rei.com/category/4500799

Please tell me more about this, I made a steering stabilizer like the one yours, I have been very happy with the results.

xtrajack,

I was unable to use a modification for the thumb throttle developed by a member on the ebikeforum.com site. http://www.ebikeforum.com/electric-bike-scooter/16081-cruise-control-mod-thumb-twist-throttles.html I have the Currie conversion kit installed on my 21-speed mountain bike and my thumb throttle is different from the ones used on the Izip and Ezip bikes, plus I have grip shifters on both sides of my handlebars since I have a 21-speed bike. My solution since I couldn't use the ebikeforum.com mod was to use a large O-ring that's zip-tied, not an elegant mod but it works. The O-ring is placed behind the thumb throttle and large enough that I can pull it over the thumb throttle and keep it in place. I only use it when going on long distances on roads that have shoulders and minimal stop signs or lights, like my 9-mile trip to the closest town--I ride in a wide shoulder and have no stop signs or lights until I get into town. This isn't an elegant solution and I wouldn't recommend that someone use a cruise control if they ride their bike in a congested area or an area where they're on the road rather than a shoulder. I've attached two photos, one blurry that shows the O-ring on the throttle and one that shows it when not in use (you see it behind the throttle). I'll see if I can come with a better solution at some point. You may not have any problems using the modification described on ebikeforum.com. Good luck.

157520157521http://www.bikeforums.net/images/misc/pencil.png

Ann, you're right... I don't need the bar ends. The bars on the iZip are great, so I can sit upright. I'm still waiting for a seat post so I can sit on this bike ! With the holiday stuff going on and Currie not being able to find a black one just yet, I may have my first ride in the Fall rather than in this hot weather. Can't wait to try it out, though. I still miss my scooter(!)

Angie,

I hope you don't have to wait until fall. Hopefully, Currie will get a replacement mailed out to you this week. In the meantime, can you scrounge a free one to use to ride until the new one from Currie gets to you? Does your local dump have an area where bicycles can be left or do you have a bicycle coop? If so, it might be worth while to check them out to see if you can get a seat post stem that will work, for free.

I'm looking forward to seeing a photo of your lovely new e-bike. Is the red paint metallic? Also, how dark is it, it's hard to tell from the photos I've seen. I'm also looking forward to your ride reports. I'm interested in what you think of the hub motor Currie is using on this model. I hope you're having a good holiday. Don't forget to get a good lock your bike, preferably, a small U-lock with good, heavy chain. FYI, if you don't want spend a fortune on panniers, but need a way to carry things, beg empty kitty litter pails off friends or family (if you don't own cats). You can spray paint them and then put J hooks on them. (You can find J hooks at most hardware stores.)

http://www.mcwoods.com/catalog/_J_Hook2.jpg

http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:8S0yLxWneOyvSM:http://greenarbytheday.files.wordpress.com/2009/01/dsc00528.jpg

Hey, Ann, you certainly are clever... I'm the same way. I had a nice black basket they have at Walmart that sat on the back battery rack. It was really good looking, but I took it back and got the packs (why do they call them pannieres(sp?), we're in U.S., not France.

I did get the seat post I wanted and Currie paid for it. I've had it checked out completely at the local shop. I rode the bike only twice so far, just around our parking lots 'n up and down some of the hills just to practice shifting, getting used to it. I'm disappointed about:
1) When I make a sharp turn the front wheel starts to go into a wobble, but only slightly. It is acting strange. Mark (local bike guy) put the wheel on and I'm sure he knows what he's doing, so who knows.
2) This bike can barely get me up a slight hill on smooth pavement... it's really struggling and going very slowly!
3) The kickstand is way too long and straight for this bike... the bike can tip over easily and that's quite a nuisance. Mark said it takes a special tool to get it off and maybe he can try to bend it out a bit, but he has to drag that tool out of hiding since he seldom needs to use it. He agrees, the stand is way too high and makes the bike too unsteady. Anyone passing can barely touch it and it'll keel over.

So... so far I'm not too happy, but I do realize these are minor kinks that need to be dealt with.
I got a rack pack that goes on both sides of the rear battery rack. It was at Walmart's for about $24 and it's VERY roomy, two zippered sections on each side.
I don't have a camera, so I can't take a photo of this bike, but while I was in the shop a police officer came in and was admiring it. He couldn't believe Currie could put this much power on the bike and have it look so subtle... me too.
Anything else I should know about or should or shouldn't do, just let me know.

Hey, Ann, you certainly are clever... I'm the same way. I had a nice black basket they have at Walmart that sat on the back battery rack. It was really good looking, but I took it back and got the packs (why do they call them pannieres(sp?), we're in U.S., not France.

I did get the seat post I wanted and Currie paid for it. I've had it checked out completely at the local shop. I rode the bike only twice so far, just around our parking lots 'n up and down some of the hills just to practice shifting, getting used to it. I'm disappointed about:
1) When I make a sharp turn the front wheel starts to go into a wobble, but only slightly. It is acting strange. Mark (local bike guy) put the wheel on and I'm sure he knows what he's doing, so who knows.
2) This bike can barely get me up a slight hill on smooth pavement... it's really struggling and going very slowly!
3) The kickstand is way too long and straight for this bike... the bike can tip over easily and that's quite a nuisance. Mark said it takes a special tool to get it off and maybe he can try to bend it out a bit, but he has to drag that tool out of hiding since he seldom needs to use it. He agrees, the stand is way too high and makes the bike too unsteady. Anyone passing can barely touch it and it'll keel over.

So... so far I'm not too happy, but I do realize these are minor kinks that need to be dealt with.
I got a rack pack that goes on both sides of the rear battery rack. It was at Walmart's for about $24 and it's VERY roomy, two zippered sections on each side.
I don't have a camera, so I can't take a photo of this bike, but while I was in the shop a police officer came in and was admiring it. He couldn't believe Currie could put this much power on the bike and have it look so subtle... me too.
Anything else I should know about or should or shouldn't do, just let me know.

Angie,

I'm sorry that you're not happy with the power. Do you have a computer on it yet to read your speed and keep track of distance traveled? An e-bike won't have the power of a scooter with an internal combustion engine. Some e-bike enthusiasts are building some fast bikes using 1000W motors and lots of batteries, but I wouldn't feel very comfortable putting an extremely powerful motor on a bike with a regular frame. None of them were engineered or built to take the stress that some e-bike enthusiasts are dishing out. I expect to see more stories of frame and fork failures due to fatigue among the "I want to go motorcycle-fast" crowd.

I'm wondering if your battery is charging completely. An undercharged battery would certainly not deliver enough power to the controller and motor. Do you know anyone who has a multi meter that you could use to check the power level of your battery? If so, please post the power reading once you've obtained them with the multi meter. Currie is really good about honoring warranties so if you've got a problem, they should take care of it for you. They will have you checking various things to help them troubleshoot.

If you have a dremel tool, you could use a cutoff disc to shorten the kickstand. I'm not sure what the kickstand on your model looks like. None of the photos on the web show the kickstand. Your local bike store could also replace it for you if you're willing to buy a new one. The Greenfield rear mounted, oversized kickstand is under $20.00 and has good reviews on Amazon (4.5 stars out of 5). I'm happy with my bi-pod kickstand, but I don't know if you could mount one on your bike. I'd need to see a photo of the current kickstand.
I hope one of your early purchases was a good U-Lock and chain; people can have sticky fingers around nice bikes. Good luck. If you have a friend with a digital camera, please get them to take some photos for you so you can post them.

sorry that you aren't happy, Angie. That's why I recommend building one yourself because you can make one that's more powerful.

Hi again Angie, I'm wondering about your problems. As you said for the most part they are minor and can be corrected. The kickstand tha NB has will likely not fit your bike because Currie has a stupid custom mounting bracket. The only way you can use an after market stand is to cut off the original one and even then it would be difficult. However, I have used the after market stand that arraches to the 2 back bars just before the wheel. I haven't used in on my Currie bikes but I see no reason it wouldn't work well. I'm sorry but I don't remember the brand but I did buy it on EBay for around $20. If you like I can try to find it again on Ebay for you.

The front tire problem is very strange. Nether my wife's bike nor mine has ever had a problem like that. I wonder if the bearing retainer nuts are correctly adjusted. You could check this by flippingthe bike over. With the bike on it's handle bar spin the tire....does it spin freely? Now grab it at the with both hands and try to force it back and forth (push with one hand while pulling in the other direction with the other). While doing this look at the center where the bearing is. You should not see or feel any movement. If there is movement the bearing are loose and should be tightened. While you have the bike upside down try spinnig the back tire as well. make sure it's not draging or wobbling. When you have the bike back on it's wheels put the battery on and roll the bike forward while looking at the space between the tire and the battery. Be sure the tire isn't rubbing the battery. Believe it or not one of my Currie batteries has a tire rub mark on it about 1/8" deep. I think it's from my wife's bike because I noticed her tire had a wobble while I was riding behind her. I had to realign her rear tire to correct the problem. this will of course cause a major drag on the bike preventing full speed or hill climbing ability.

The motor is a standard 450w 24v motor the same motor that all of us with Curries have. I am not saying that they a racing bikes but they do fine up to about 15mph. And for the average hill they do fine. If this is not the case for your bike I would question the battery. We all know that SLA (lead) batteries are not going to give the power of lifepo4 packs but it should still pull the bike for at least 5 to 8 miles. I would recommend checking the manufacturing date of the bike. If it is more then 6 months old it could be a bad battery. I think you said you bought this bike from a bike shop. Maybe he has another bike with a good battery that he would allow you to test. Assuming that the battery proves good and you are just not happy with the power we can talk about adding a second motor and batter or upgrading to a lifepo4 barrety pack. But lets wait with that until you are sure the problem isn't the battery.

So how is your new seat? I just came home fron a 10 mile ride with me wife. I put on the 3rd seat just before we left. It's another hornless seat with better padding. I remembered I had bought it a few years ago for another bike. She was a lot happier with it but it's still not perfect for her. Hmm.....

PS..sorry your so far away I'd be happy to look at your problem for you and at least give you a direction.

EDIT: If you do have a bad battery time is very important to you. I think Currie waranties the batteries for only 30 days. The rest of the bike is 6 months or more if you complain loadly.

Hi again Angie, I'm wondering about your problems. As you said for the most part they are minor and can be corrected. The kickstand tha NB has will likely not fit your bike because Currie has a stupid custom mounting bracket. The only way you can use an after market stand is to cut off the original one and even then it would be difficult. However, I have used the after market stand that arraches to the 2 back bars just before the wheel. I haven't used in on my Currie bikes but I see no reason it wouldn't work well. I'm sorry but I don't remember the brand but I did buy it on EBay for around $20. If you like I can try to find it again on Ebay for you.

The front tire problem is very strange. Nether my wife's bike nor mine has ever had a problem like that. I wonder if the bearing retainer nuts are correctly adjusted. You could check this by flippingthe bike over. With the bike on it's handle bar spin the tire....does it spin freely? Now grab it at the with both hands and try to force it back and forth (push with one hand while pulling in the other direction with the other). While doing this look at the center where the bearing is. You should not see or feel any movement. If there is movement the bearing are loose and should be tightened. While you have the bike upside down try spinnig the back tire as well. make sure it's not draging or wobbling. When you have the bike back on it's wheels put the battery on and roll the bike forward while looking at the space between the tire and the battery. Be sure the tire isn't rubbing the battery. Believe it or not one of my Currie batteries has a tire rub mark on it about 1/8" deep. I think it's from my wife's bike because I noticed her tire had a wobble while I was riding behind her. I had to realign her rear tire to correct the problem. this will of course cause a major drag on the bike preventing full speed or hill climbing ability.

The motor is a standard 450w 24v motor the same motor that all of us with Curries have. I am not saying that they a racing bikes but they do fine up to about 15mph. And for the average hill they do fine. If this is not the case for your bike I would question the battery. We all know that SLA (lead) batteries are not going to give the power of lifepo4 packs but it should still pull the bike for at least 5 to 8 miles. I would recommend checking the manufacturing date of the bike. If it is more then 6 months old it could be a bad battery. I think you said you bought this bike from a bike shop. Maybe he has another bike with a good battery that he would allow you to test. Assuming that the battery proves good and you are just not happy with the power we can talk about adding a second motor and batter or upgrading to a lifepo4 barrety pack. But lets wait with that until you are sure the problem isn't the battery.

So how is your new seat? I just came home fron a 10 mile ride with me wife. I put on the 3rd seat just before we left. It's another hornless seat with better padding. I remembered I had bought it a few years ago for another bike. She was a lot happier with it but it's still not perfect for her. Hmm.....

PS..sorry your so far away I'd be happy to look at your problem for you and at least give you a direction.

da,

Her bike comes with a 36V Li-ION battery, not SLA. It's a 500W hub motor too, not the chain-drive motors that we have. She should be able to get speeds of 15-17 MPH. Going up a hill, without pedaling, the speed might drop to 6-8 MPH, depending on the grade of the hill. I really suspect there may be a battery or charger issue, hence my suggestion on reading the power level with a multimeter.

This is a new frame style for Currie so I'm not certain that her kickstand is mounted the way yours is so I wouldn't automatically rule out a bi-pod kickstand. The Greenfield rear mounted kickstand that I mentioned is the type you describe. It definitely could be installed. However, she may be able to use the factory kickstand by cutting it down a bit. I wouldn't cut it until I was sure that the power issue can be resolved.

As for the front wheel problems, I'm not certain whether the bike shop that put it together for her has everything installed correctly. This bike has disc brakes so who knows if the shop has failed to properly install or adjust everything. Although we'd all like to think a bike shop would do things correctly, many have a lot of turn over due to low pay. So, you may not have someone with a lot of experience working on your bike.

da,

Her bike comes with a 36V Li-ION battery, not SLA. It's a 500W hub motor too, not the chain-drive motors that we have. She should be able to get speeds of 15-17 MPH. Going up a hill, without pedaling, the speed might drop to 6-8 MPH, depending on the grade of the hill. I really suspect there may be a battery or charger issue, hence my suggestion on reading the power level with a multimeter.

This is a new frame style for Currie so I'm not certain that her kickstand is mounted the way yours is so I wouldn't automatically rule out a bi-pod kickstand. The Greenfield rear mounted kickstand that I mentioned is the type you describe. It definitely could be installed. However, she may be able to use the factory kickstand by cutting it down a bit. I wouldn't cut it until I was sure that the power issue can be resolved.

As for the front wheel problems, I'm not certain whether the bike shop that put it together for her has everything installed correctly. This bike has disc brakes so who knows if the shop has failed to properly install or adjust everything. Although we'd all like to think a bike shop would do things correctly, many have a lot of turn over due to low pay. So, you may not have someone with a lot of experience working on your bike.

Hi NB, All your points are well put and taken. I couldn't remember what model Angie bought but I knew it wasn't one of the cheapos like I have.

Yeah, I agree the battery and/or charger is a likely place to look. But I wouldn't rule out the motor ether especially if it's a front hub motor and she mentioned problems with the front wheel on turns.

I wonder if expectaions are just to high. It would be nice if the bike had a speedo on it or could be tracked by someone in a car to verify the top speed.

Your right the kickstand could be cut off but most stands need to be bent and the bottom. So just cutting it off may not work out. If it was me I'd be talking to Currie and let them solve it. Of course at the same time I would take an electric pipe (conduit) bender and bend it. It wouldn't take more then a few mins and it could be done progressively until it's just right.

Bike shops are like car dealers...Sadly you just don't know what your going to get back!!

Hi NB, All your points are well put and taken. I couldn't remember what model Angie bought but I knew it wasn't one of the cheapos like I have.

Yeah, I agree the battery and/or charger is a likely place to look. But I wouldn't rule out the motor ether especially if it's a front hub motor and she mentioned problems with the front wheel on turns.

I wonder if expectaions are just to high. It would be nice if the bike had a speedo on it or could be tracked by someone in a car to verify the top speed.

Your right the kickstand could be cut off but most stands need to be bent and the bottom. So just cutting it off may not work out. If it was me I'd be talking to Currie and let them solve it. Of course at the same time I would take an electric pipe (conduit) bender and bend it. It wouldn't take more then a few mins and it could be done progressively until it's just right.

Bike shops are like car dealers...Sadly you just don't know what your going to get back!!

da,

The hub motor on her model is on the rear wheel. I really think that the installation or adjustment of the front fork at the bike shop may have caused the problems. It's really hit-or-miss finding a reliable repair person for anything these days, including bicycles. There's one local near me who fancies himself a bike repair person, but no one goes to him and he's never been able to open a shop because his reputation is know around town. No one wants to let him touch their bikes because he is more likely to cause damage. However, he views himself as a genius.

da,

The hub motor on her model is on the rear wheel. I really think that the installation or adjustment of the front fork at the bike shop may have caused the problems. It's really hit-or-miss finding a reliable repair person for anything these days, including bicycles. There's one local near me who fancies himself a bike repair person, but no one goes to him and he's never been able to open a shop because his reputation is know around town. No one wants to let him touch their bikes because he is more likely to cause damage. However, he views himself as a genius.

LOL, so you do know me.........

I have a question for you and normally I wouldn't ask it on this thread but... I am working on installing my CellLogs and I remember you connected the alarm to a buzzer. How did you make your connection? The instructions say to use a relay. Did you? I bought a set of really small 1.5 to 3.ov buzzers. I am planning to install a set of AA batteries to run them because with luck they should never actually activate. But I am wondering about the relay. What did you do? Thanks, Bob

LOL, so you do know me.........

I have a question for you and normally I wouldn't ask it on this thread but... I am working on installing my CellLogs and I remember you connected the alarm to a buzzer. How did you make your connection? The instructions say to use a relay. Did you? I bought a set of really small 1.5 to 3.ov buzzers. I am planning to install a set of AA batteries to run them because with luck they should never actually activate. But I am wondering about the relay. What did you do? Thanks, Bob

LOL. No, you have real skills, as evidenced by the work on your various e-bikes. Remember, imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. I look at your mods for inspiration. The local I referenced has a reputation among the other natives of the town as being completely inept. I was warned never to have him work on my bike.

I haven't installed a Piezo alarm on my Celllog yet. It's so quiet where I ride I had no problems hearing it the one time it went off, climbing a very steep hill deep in the forest. From reading the posts in the CellLog thread at Endless Sphere, you really need a relay with NC contacts (at least if you want to use a DC-to-DC converter to power them). One member who didn't use a relay fried his CellLogs (he had a bigger battery pack than we do and had multiple CellLogs wired together). Digikeys has 5v relays (NC) that some in the electric car forums have used with the CellLog.

Some of the electric car enthusiasts are creating wire loops by building huge banks of CellLog 8 monitors (15 or more) wired to NC relays that, when energized by the CellLog alarm, would open and de-energize another (master) relay wired to it. They then can have the de-energizing of the master relay trigger any number of events, such as turning on LED warning lights in the vehicle. You could post your question in the CellLog thread in the battery section and Endless Sphere. The members who have used relays to connect alarms can better answer your question. Since you have e-brakes, have you given any thought to using the CellLog's LVC function rather than a Piezo alarm?

LOL. No, you have real skills, as evidenced by the work on your various e-bikes. Remember, imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. I look at your mods for inspiration. The local I referenced has a reputation among the other natives of the town as being completely inept. I was warned never to have him work on my bike.

I haven't installed a Piezo alarm on my Celllog yet. It's so quiet where I ride I had no problems hearing it the one time it went off, climbing a very steep hill deep in the forest. From reading the posts in the CellLog thread at Endless Sphere, you really need a relay with NC contacts (at least if you want to use a DC-to-DC converter to power them). One member who didn't use a relay fried his CellLogs (he had a bigger battery pack than we do and had multiple CellLogs wired together). Digikeys has 5v relays (NC) that some in the electric car forums have used with the CellLog.

Some of the electric car enthusiasts are creating wire loops by building huge banks of CellLog 8 monitors (15 or more) wired to NC relays that, when energized by the CellLog alarm, would open and de-energize another (master) relay wired to it. They then can have the de-energizing of the master relay trigger any number of events, such as turning on LED warning lights in the vehicle. You could post your question in the CellLog thread in the battery section and Endless Sphere. The members who have used relays to connect alarms can better answer your question. Since you have e-brakes, have you given any thought to using the CellLog's LVC function rather than a Piezo alarm?

Thanks NB, I will have to study the CellLog manual. What I was worried about is even wiring the alarm output to a relay will put voltage (to energize the coil) through the CellLog but they don't say how much voltage is acceptable. Yeah, if I can't figure it out I will ask on ES. I'd hate to pop one of these puppies. Thanks, Bob

I fried the output of my celllog, too much current driving a relay.

I fried the output of my celllog, too much current driving a relay.

I reread the manual and the output is rated for 50v but if I am understanding it correctly it's 500ma. Here's the way they write it. A little strange to me but I'm not much of an electrical person.

Maximum voltage for alarm port: 50VDC
Current drain for alarm port: <500mA

da,

You could also send a PM to SpeedEbikes on the Endless Sphere forum if you don't want to post your question in the Celllog thread. He was on of the early e-bike adopters of the CellLog and developed the work around for 8 cell packs so that the unit doesn't draw power solely from cells 7 and 8. He has wired the Cellogs on all his e-bikes to Piezo alarms.

I reread the manual and the output is rated for 50v but if I am understanding it correctly it's 500ma. Here's the way they write it. A little strange to me but I'm not much of an electrical person.

Maximum voltage for alarm port: 50VDC
Current drain for alarm port: <500mA


My relay was only rated to 100 or 150ma ( I forget which), but the inrush might be too much. I also thought the alarm output wasn't referenced to the battery pack and I could chain two together. I'm not sure which fried it, but next time I'll read the manual.

I have since removed the relay, added a Signalab BMS and a hightekbikes 20 amp key switch. The relay was unbalancing my cells big time. I was tapping 12v off and that pack was always lower. I really noticed it when I got the bms. I also made the mistake of taking the tap from 4 cells down to 3 cells (trying to reduce the voltage to the relay since the coil was getting hot). Then when I charged that cell set, the one cell that wasn't feeding the relay would spike. I would always catch it, but it took me a few times charging to figure out what was going on.

My relay was only rated to 100 or 150ma ( I forget which), but the inrush might be too much. I also thought the alarm output wasn't referenced to the battery pack and I could chain two together. I'm not sure which fried it, but next time I'll read the manual.

I have since removed the relay, added a Signalab BMS and a hightekbikes 20 amp key switch. The relay was unbalancing my cells big time. I was tapping 12v off and that pack was always lower. I really noticed it when I got the bms. I also made the mistake of taking the tap from 4 cells down to 3 cells (trying to reduce the voltage to the relay since the coil was getting hot). Then when I charged that cell set, the one cell that wasn't feeding the relay would spike. I would always catch it, but it took me a few times charging to figure out what was going on.

What I was considering was to ether run the buzzer directly throught the alarm output and use a set of AAA OR AA batteries so as not to effect the pack at all. Or use the alarm output to trip and relay that it turns sounds the buzzer. Again using the AAA or AA batteries. I was going to use a NO relay therefore, it wouldn't be drawing power unless the alarm was tripped. This should avoid the problems you had even if I power it all from a cell/cells from the pack.

If I had to to do again, I would just run a buzzer. I had grand ideas of a dash board with switches and a key switch that never happened. I like the separate battery idea. I have an extra thundersky pack and I think I will use one cell to power my head and tail light when the AA batteries give out.

I am getting ready to try to develop a cruise control module using a programmable microcontroller. I have the pieces on order.

If I had to to do again, I would just run a buzzer. I had grand ideas of a dash board with switches and a key switch that never happened. I like the separate battery idea. I have an extra thundersky pack and I think I will use one cell to power my head and tail light when the AA batteries give out.

I am getting ready to try to develop a cruise control module using a programmable microcontroller. I have the pieces on order.

What kind of motor/controller are you running (brushed on non-brushed)?

What kind of motor/controller are you running (brushed on non-brushed)?

I started with an amped rear geared hub and their controller. I just gave that to my wife and I now have an ebikekits rear dd 9c hub and their stock controller. I had cruise with the amped controller and I really miss it.

I too spent a-lot of time reviewing e-bike conversion kits and landed on the e-bikekit system with the lifepo4 battery and quick charger. I purchased a inexpensive mountain bike and converted it. The total cost was ~$1200. ($950 kit, $120 bike, rest = pannier, head/tail lights etc..). I would stay away from SLA batteries as most people who have them eventually upgrade. You can get the same kit that I got for $598 with an SLA battery. The extra $ = consistency, I reliably get ~20 miles out of my e-bike in hilly terrain. I would also recommend 500 to a 750watt motor. Anything less is not powerful enough and anything more breaks the federal limit for e-bikes.

A few words about e-bikekit.

The wheels are made in USA @ NJ
The customer service and instructions are excellent!
The product is solid
It has a 2 year warranty!
The kits are designed to be non-peddle assist if you want. I only peddle uphills, motor dose 90% of the work. If I want a workout I peddle more and give the motor less power. Simple.
The base system dose not have a fancy computer, just a throttle and breaks(optional), your brain is the computer.

I hope that this helps you that you are riding during the prime riding time.

I ordered a ready-made so kits are no longer an issue for me. This is an interesting thread, to say the least, though. I wish I could have done a kit but there is NO ONE around here at any of the bike shops who are experienced with e-bikes admittedly. So I did the next best thing and got one made for me, though not happy to have to pay such a steep price for one.
It's sitting in my living room and I'm almost afraid to ride it yet... though I've been out a few times just around here until I get used to shifting (!) I was spoiled with a scooter where you just twist the throttle and sit there and enjoy the ride.
I also haven't been able to ride much because it's been blistering hot and now going into August it'll probably get worse. I'm looking forward to the fall because nights here don't cool down much.
I'll get there. I was almost equally as stalling when I got my first scooter, but then I was riding it fearlessly!! Thanks to all of you again for your time and for letting me pick your bikey brains!
Angie M, the gal who started this thread and learned a lot from it.

I ordered a ready-made so kits are no longer an issue for me. This is an interesting thread, to say the least, though. I wish I could have done a kit but there is NO ONE around here at any of the bike shops who are experienced with e-bikes admittedly. So I did the next best thing and got one made for me, though not happy to have to pay such a steep price for one.
It's sitting in my living room and I'm almost afraid to ride it yet... though I've been out a few times just around here until I get used to shifting (!) I was spoiled with a scooter where you just twist the throttle and sit there and enjoy the ride.
I also haven't been able to ride much because it's been blistering hot and now going into August it'll probably get worse. I'm looking forward to the fall because nights here don't cool down much.
I'll get there. I was almost equally as stalling when I got my first scooter, but then I was riding it fearlessly!! Thanks to all of you again for your time and for letting me pick your bikey brains!
Angie M, the gal who started this thread and learned a lot from it.

Angie,

I suspect the issue with your front wheel could be a mis-adjustment of the headset at the shop--shakiness is often a symptom of the headset being too loose. One way to confirm that the headset is too loose is to apply the front brake and push the handlebars back and forth, front to back. If you feel a clunk it usually means the headset is too loose. If it is loose, go back to the shop that put your bike together and have them adjust it. However, once they've adjusted it and before you leave the shop test to make sure they don't have the headset too tight (that could ultimately damage the frame). To test to see if it's too tight, lift the front of the frame so that the front wheel comes off the ground. Normally, the wheel and handlebars will flop to one side or the other by their own weight when you do this, if they don't the headset is too tight. Is this the only bike shop in your town? If not, you might scope out the others.