Hybrid Bicycles - Looking to buy a sporty/performance hybrid (450$ or less)

I'm not looking to spend a fortune since I obviously don't really know what I'm getting myself into yet. I would prefer my purchase to be somewhere between 250-400, but am willing to go into the mid 400's if I could get substantially greater bang for the buck in doing so.

I'm looking for a sportier/performance hybrid as opposed to a comfort/cruiser hybrid. A highly flexible/adjustable bike would probably be preferable since I'm not sure what is going to feel comfortable in the short/long term. Lightness of the bike is also a priority as I will be carrying it at times and as an engineer inefficient (heaviness being a form thereof) things irk me. Looks/paint aren't extremely important, but I definitely don't want it to look spacey or odd.

I will probably travel 80-90% road and 10-20% bike trails. This is one area I am curious about. What are the real limitations of a hybrid bike vs. a true mountain bike? When people say "off-road" do they simply mean not a paved road or does it imply that the terrain is not even a "bike trail".

I am willing to buy used and/or parts If I could get a substantially better bike this way. My plan is to make a list of about 5-10 bikes here and then try to find them at a local bike store and compare their feel/qualities.

A couple of examples I have been looking at:
http://www.amazon.com/Diamondback-Edgewood-Sport-Hybrid-Wheels/dp/B002LFQ2HC/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

http://www.amazon.com/Diamondback-Insight-Performance-Hybrid-Wheels/dp/B002LFRUC8/ref=pd_sbs_sg_42 (would probably have to find one used to fit my budget)

No takers? I should also mention that I'm 5'10.5" and about 180 lbs.

trek 7.2 fx for $450. you get entry to a durable frame that treks sells for its $1600 bikes. it's bang for the buck. it's tough enough to handle some abuse at trails.

advantage of a mountain bike is that the much wider tires give you a cushier ride. the rattling of my hybrid on gravel road is not comfortable for the wrists. the wider tires also more stable and balanced whereas the hybrid tires can sometimes fall like they're falling sideways one time and then sideways another time. you can do it with a hybrid but the mountain bike is much more comfortable on gravel roads.

anything that involved jumping or going over logs is out of the question for a hybrd imo but the trek 7.2 fx does have a nice frame.

the 2011s are coming out in a month...see if your shop has 2010 models that they're trying to get rid of.

I'd look at the Jamis Coda (http://www.jamisbikes.com/usa/thebikes/street/coda/10_coda.html). Should be able to find a dealer who will go down to $450.

I really enjoy my DB Insight 2, however the Trek 7.2fx is very popular. You should go and test ride, that's the best way!!! JMHO.

If you do not buy the Trex FX 2, you will have nothing to post about, like add ons for the bike....It is a very
popular bike on this forum...Go Trex, you came up with a winner...Richard Just trying to keep up with
the Jones's.......( Laugh )

I like my Cannondale Quick 6. I upgraded almost every component on it in due time, but stock it was a terrific bike.

There seems to be a lot of recommendations in the ~400-450 price range. Am I getting a lot more value going with these as opposed to a bike in the ~300-350 range?

Also I frequently hear that people are unsatisfied with their bikes seat comfortableness. They end up buying gel seat/pads. I would prefer that whichever bike I buy have a comfortable seat so I don't have to spend the extra money for a seat upgrade/gel pad. Unless of course this will make the bike a lesser overall value or significantly more expensive.

I was looking at this Jamis Coda:
http://www.bikeshacksonline.com/product/2009JCC/2009-Jamis-Coda-Comp.html?meta=GBASE&metacpg=2009JCC

I noticed that they brag a lot about how the Reynolds Alloy Chromoly Steel is superior to aluminum in terms of road-feel/bumpiness. Is this just propaganda or is their truth to this? I remember reading somewhere that in a blind test riders could not identify steel vs. aluminum.

There seems to be a lot of recommendations in the ~400-450 price range. Am I getting a lot more value going with these as opposed to a bike in the ~300-350 range?

Also I frequently hear that people are unsatisfied with their bikes seat comfortableness. They end up buying gel seat/pads. I would prefer that whichever bike I buy have a comfortable seat so I don't have to spend the extra money for a seat upgrade/gel pad. Unless of course this will make the bike a lesser overall value or significantly more expensive.

I was looking at this Jamis Coda:
http://www.bikeshacksonline.com/product/2009JCC/2009-Jamis-Coda-Comp.html?meta=GBASE&metacpg=2009JCC

I noticed that they brag a lot about how the Reynolds Alloy Chromoly Steel is superior to aluminum in terms of road-feel/bumpiness. Is this just propaganda or is their truth to this? I remember reading somewhere that in a blind test riders could not identify steel vs. aluminum.

according to sheldon brown (late, respected bike guru) - you can have any riding property with either al, steel, or carbon. the tubing will be different. al will have larger diameter tubes. it is a common misconception that a bike made of al will have a harsh ride compared to steel. al has different tubing to make up for its properties and give you good ride quality. the key determinant in how harsh or smooth your ride will be is TIRES! skinny tires have harsh ride whereas wider tires with lower pressure have cushy ride that absorbs road vibrations. some claim that fork makes a big difference too but that's beyond my limited knowledge. the 7.2 fx has steel fork.

it's nice to know that trek's have high resale value. they are tried and tested. if a bike below $300 or whatever gives you lifetime warranty and you like it and you like the fit - go for it. to be honest, my bro's older fx has straight gauge aluminum whereas i have double butted al and i can't tell the difference. so i guess alpha black aluminum (double b) isn't that big of a deal. even a trek 7.1 or 7000 should have lifetime warranty and great customer service.

make sure that your stock tires are wide and cushy enough for you and that the handlebars are high enough for you due to geometry and an appropriate stem i.e. 100-120 no more than 10 degrees.

I've test ridden over 50 hybrids over the past 3-4 years. In general I have found the aluminum frames to yield a harsher ride than steel, but it isn't always true. A couple of the aluminum frames with carbon forks were surprisingly smooth. Tires do make a big difference, but they aren't the whole be all and end all of the story.

Aluminum, as a material, does transmit more vibration than does cro-moly steel. And the tube walls of an aluminum bike are thicker. So the combination of thicker walls (more material) and less vibration absorption does lead to an aluminum frame transmitting more vibration. And far more than does carbon. But an aluminum frame with a carbon fork, cushy tires, comfortable saddle & grips, can be a smooth riding bike. Smoother than an all-steel bike.

There is no exact formula that you can use. For example, I test rode a high end Specialized Sirrus that had carbon fork, carbon seat stay, and carbon seat post, all with their vibration absorbing inserts and 700x28 tires. Then I test rode a Fuji Absolute 1.0 that all of the same carbon fiber parts, but no inserts, and 700x28 tires. Both had aluminum frames. The Fuji's ride was far smoother. Not even close. To confirm, I test rode a second bike of each and the results were the same. I expected them to be almost identical. The Fuji was also smoother than multiple cro-moly steel bikes that I rode.

So you can never know from reading the spec sheets alone.

This is a Schwinn Trailways, price 239.00 dollars, but something you might want to consider is the
extras you are going to need also..I just started thinking of all the accessories added and the cost, Topeak Rack 29.00 dollars, MtX trunk bag at
REI 80.00 dollas (installed for free), Bell Wireless Speedometer 20.00 ( has been working perfectly ), Bell
Torch Headlamp 20.00 dollars (Walmart), Schwinn Helmet 30.00 dollars Walmart, love the flashing light on the back, Planet Bike Micro pump, 18.00 dollars REI, spare tubes (2) 13.00 dollars REI, Presta to Shrader adapter and Presta extender 6.00 REI, patch kit REI ( do not remember price ), Schwinn water bottle and cage 10.00
dollars Walmart, another water bottle from Dicks Sporting Goods 8.00 dollars, That does not include the tools in the kit or frame bag, already had....Grand Total 239.00 Dollars, .. WOW .. Just some food for thought !]
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LF9VLGT9g5c Good Luck...:) Richard

@Tom, A carbon fork would probably put the bike out of my price range though, right? Also the 700x28 tires on the bikes you mentioned, aren't those pretty slim for hybrid tires? Would I really be able to do bike trails, light grass, etc. on those?

I would ideally like to go with the slimmest tires that will still allow me to do some bike trails and other light/smoothish non-road things. What kind of tire sizes would satisfy this?

I wasn't recommending 700x28 tires. I don't like those tires, even on roads. I like a smoother ride. I purchased the Fuji Absolute 1.0 that I mentioned above, and the first change I had the shop do to it was to swap out the 28mm tires for 32mm. I like 32mm to 38mm on bike trails.

As to the carbon fork, yes that will put the bike out of your price range. I was merely noting my experiences.

As to what you can buy for $450, that can really vary. I recently purchased a 2009 Electra Amsterdam Sport 9d that listed for $750, for just $375 on a bike shop clearance sale. A couple of years ago I purchased a RANS recumbent that listed for $1800 for $1000, it was two years old but still new in the shop. I love clearance sales on older models. But always make sure it fits you correctly, don't take a good deal on an ill-fitting bike.

The Trek 7.2FX is the one. bk

One option would be the new 2011 Escape 2 from Giant, if it is in shops already. Looks like a reasonable, pared down fitness hybrid for $410.

http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-US/bikes/model/escape.2.2011/6963/43122/

I ended up buying a Trek 7.2FX a few weeks ago. Fantastic bike - I paid around 460 for it and don't regret it, love the bike. My wife picked the Jamis Coda Femme - she like the ride a lot better than the 7.2FX WSD (due to the suspension in the seat post is what I say.)

I just don't think you can go wrong with the Trek.

@xoxoxo, I saw the youtube vid in the link you posted above. It seems like a great bike for the price. Is that thing some kind of diamond in the rough? The big box retailers mostly carry junk, right? How much does it weigh (w/o the accessories attached)?

I went to a bike store today (yesterday technically) and while they had a decent selection, good services policy, quality bikes, they did not have all that many choices within my price range. They had 3 bikes between 400 and 500. They had a Trek 7.2 FX (2010 I believe) for 490 (seemed a bit steep). a 7.1 FX for 410 (2011, odd considering the 7.2 was a 2010). Finally a Scott Sportster P6 for 410. I'm assuming all of these prices are before taxes also (If I buy locally there's no avoiding the taxman). Consider the fact that as xoxoxoxoxo mentioned above, I will have to buy a ton of other accessories to have a truly complete setup, I'm not satisfied with these prices. What do you guys think? I also gave them all a spin and they all felt great. The gear shifting on the Scott p6 sportster oddly seemed significantly less smooth (slightly strange mechanical clicky sounds, slightly slower, etc.) than the 7.2 FX.

Anyhow unless they carry used bikes or I can bargain them down a significant amount then I'm going to have to find another store and/or reassess my needs/options.

That Schwinn Trailways is not a fitness/performance hybrid. It is a standard hybrid, with suspension fork. A few pounds heavier than a fitness hybrid, more upright seating position, designed for more comfort than speed. It also has lower-end parts, like wheels, derailleurs, etc., than the $400-$500 bikes from Trek and Giant mentioned in this thread. The Trek model that would be most equivalent to this Schwinn is their 7000 hybrid. But even there, the 7000 has some higher end parts.

The Schwinn may be a very good bike for $200-$240. Many Schwinns are decent bikes for the money.

The price gap between the ~$400-$500 trek/giant/jamis/scott etc. and the ~150-300 mass produced brands like schwinn doesn't seem to add up logically to me. It seems as if you could buy a decent schwinn and then just buy 20-50 dollar component upgrades for it (better seat, tires, brakes, etc.) to spec it up to be in line with or better than the "entry level performance" bikes at less cost.

Typically, you are not going to get a bike that is equivalent with a $400-$500 bike for less money by buying a $150-$300 bike and putting into it $200 to $250 (let alone $20-$50) in accessories and component upgrades. First, the frame will generally not be of the same quality. Second, the better components in the more expensive bike are cheaper when purchased in quantity by the bike manufacturer than an individual can purchase, and one would be buying components twice, the original components with the bike and the upgrade components to replace them. So, I think it is generally a fallacy that one can get essentially the same bike for less by buying a cheaper bike and upgrading components. It is actually likely to cost more approaching it that way. If you want the features and components of a $400-$500 bike then you should look for the $400-$500 bike that you like.

The price gap between the ~$400-$500 trek/giant/jamis/scott etc. and the ~150-300 mass produced brands like schwinn doesn't seem to add up logically to me. It seems as if you could buy a decent schwinn and then just buy 20-50 dollar component upgrades for it (better seat, tires, brakes, etc.) to spec it up to be in line with or better than the "entry level performance" bikes at less cost.

Tis what I did. I bought a Trailway, the only thing left to replace is the seat. Only cost about 100 to replace the crankset, brakes, stem (cause I broke the adjuster, my fault), and obviously tubes, but that's pretty much any bike. The tires that come with it are quite good actually. Saved 150 dollars. The frame has mounts for fenders and a rear rack as well, so no worries there. Held 50lbs just fine, no horrible flexing or anything.

Check the Specialized Sirrus out. The Specialized Body Geometry seats are among the most comfortable OEM seats on the market. Butttttt, your butt does have to get used to them.

Check the Specialized Sirrus out. The Specialized Body Geometry seats are among the most comfortable OEM seats on the market. Butttttt, your butt does have to get used to them.

Seat choice is very personal; some people hate the SBGs.

And seats are easily changed - a decent store should be willing to swap seats around and discount the value of the seat your bike came with.

As for the requirement that the bike be light and cheap... well, these tend to be opposite properties. For $450 I'd concentrate on getting a bike that fits you reasonably well and which doesn't fall apart or kill you.

Re. buying used - yes, you can spectacular deals this way if you are patient. I got around a £1000 worth of almost unused cyclocross bike for less than a quarter of its new value on ebay - but it took me a year of stalking and bidding to get a deal that good.

Other thoughts: it's usually worth upgrading the tyres that come with a cheap bike to better ones, never expect the first saddle you try to suit your ass, and if you're going to ride in rain then pay for an upgrade to pink Kool Stop brake pads.

I know this has to be a bad idea somehow, but why not just buy a less expensive road bike (which will usually be more performance oriented because its a road bike) and buy hybrid tires for it?

Why not figure out what kind of bike you could use, find the bikes that meet those criteria, try them out, and choose the one you like the best? If it is over your budget, consider deferring immediate gratification which might drive you to get something less than that, and save up to get what you want. Trying to make a particular cheap bike into something it may not be well suited for may turn out in the long run to be more frustrating than finding a bike you like, and if you have to save up for it because you think it costs too much then do it.

I know this has to be a bad idea somehow, but why not just buy a less expensive road bike (which will usually be more performance oriented because its a road bike) and buy hybrid tires for it?

I'd guess because a "road bike" has drops and not everyone likes them. And you need good luck to find a $450 new road bike! And even better luck to find one that can take the range of tyres a hybrid can - if you it will probably be a cyclocross rather than road bike.

We keep going around and around, but I think the relevant recommendations have already been made. The Trek 7.2FX or 7.3FX, depending upon what price you can negotiate, the Giant Escape 2 at a list of just $410, and perhaps one from the Cannondale Quick line. These are all fitness-type hybrids which are lighter and a bit more aerodynamic and usually come with a good warranty from a bike shop. Where they can set it up and make sure it fits you.

This seems to be what the OP was looking for when the thread started.

Or you can watch the used market in your area, if you know your sizing and can fit it to yourself. Or look for older models on clearance specials.

The Cannondale Quick 4 looks like a nice bike that is a bit out of your price range, listing at $600. Perhaps you can find it on sale. I like it because it has a carbon fiber fork, which usually smooths out the ride nicely. And it has a SRAM X-5 rear derailleur, which I also like better than the Shimano 8-speed derailleurs. The wheels have Shimano hubs instead of no-name Chinese hubs, it has a Shimano crankset, and Tektro brakes. A nice collection of decent components.
http://www.rei.com/product/777320

Typically, you are not going to get a bike that is equivalent with a $400-$500 bike for less money by buying a $150-$300 bike and putting into it $200 to $250 (let alone $20-$50) in accessories and component upgrades. First, the frame will generally not be of the same quality. Second, the better components in the more expensive bike are cheaper when purchased in quantity by the bike manufacturer than an individual can purchase, and one would be buying components twice, the original components with the bike and the upgrade components to replace them. So, I think it is generally a fallacy that one can get essentially the same bike for less by buying a cheaper bike and upgrading components. It is actually likely to cost more approaching it that way. If you want the features and components of a $400-$500 bike then you should look for the $400-$500 bike that you like.

I agree with all of this. A cheaper bike usually has cheaper, lower-grade parts everywhere on it. Cheaper rims, hubs, derailleurs, fork, shifters, brakes, crankset, even handlebars and seatposts will be lower grade & heavier.

Buying cheaper and upgrading usually only works when you are satisfied with a lot of the parts on the cheaper bike and will only be upgrading a few. Or you have a bunch of spare parts in your parts bin already and so don't have to buy much.

It really isn't the case that a $300 lesser-name bike has many of the same parts of a $600 name brand bike. The lower priced bike is lower priced because it has cheaper parts through-out. Although it can be true that the cheaper bike will be fine for many people. Not everyone needs higher quality parts for their application.

...So you can never know from reading the spec sheets alone.
No truer words spoken. You have to get out and ride these bikes! Don't limit yourself to one type of bike (e.g. aluminum-framed hybrid with suspension fork) but try different frame materials, drop bars, tire sizes, etc. Just my $0.02: Typically, cheaper hybrids with suspension forks, like the links you provided in your original post are heavy. The fork itself will usually add about 2 lbs over a rigid frameset! Ideally a "hybrid" fork should be light and have a lock-out feature to make it behave like a rigid fork when on smooth roads/trails. That kind of equipment, however, puts the bike above your price range. Here's an nice example with a lock-out fork for MSRP $580 USD:

http://www.thebicycleshoppecharleston.com/images/Crosstrail%20Sport%202010.jpg (http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=45706&eid=4672&menuItemId=12188)

From what I've read these Specialized Crosstrail bikes make great commuters as they can take racks & fenders, but are also capable off-roaders.

BTW: One way to know when a hybrid is not a sporty/performance hybrid is when it has a suspension fork. It might have a very small compression absorber, like in some of the Trek FX models, but it will not have a dual suspension fork. Those add 2 to 4 pounds of weight, and they absorb some of your energy as you pedal. A more performance-oriented hybrid will have a rigid, road bike-like fork.

That's not the only difference, but it is a dead giveaway.

Some of them dual suspension forks will have a "lock out" option, which locks them into place. This will reduce the power lost from them absorbing some of your pedaling energy. But you will still be carrying the extra weight. These forks can be nice for riding graveled trails and commuting, but you will pay a price on performance.

BTW: One way to know when a hybrid is not a sporty/performance hybrid is when it has a suspension fork. It might have a very small compression absorber, like in some of the Trek FX models, but it will not have a dual suspension fork. Those add 2 to 4 pounds of weight, and they absorb some of your energy as you pedal. A more performance-oriented hybrid will have a rigid, road bike-like fork.

That's not the only difference, but it is a dead giveaway.

Some of them dual suspension forks will have a "lock out" option, which locks them into place. This will reduce the power lost from them absorbing some of your pedaling energy. But you will still be carrying the extra weight. These forks can be nice for riding graveled trails and commuting, but you will pay a price on performance.

This is all news to me. What exactly does a dual suspension fork look like? When I see a fork that has an accordion looking segment on it can I assume that that is a dual suspension fork?

What are the most important parts of a bike performance and quality wise in order from greatest to least?

Ive started browsing for used bikes. I'm not very impressed by eBay's selection. I would have expected them to have more bikes than I could ever hope to browse through. The list of hybrid bikes on eBay is quite small. I've started using this other site: localbiketrader.com . Are there any other sites I should be aware of for used bikes?

This is all news to me. What exactly does a dual suspension fork look like? When I see a fork that has an accordion looking segment on it can I assume that that is a dual suspension fork?

Some look like accordions, others look like the one irclean posted earlier. Basically, if it looks like a shock, it's a suspension fork. Straight forks (no suspension) look like, well, forks. All one piece, no moving parts.


What are the most important parts of a bike performance and quality wise in order from greatest to least? Frame is the most important, I think. You can upgrade components, but if you have a crap frame you have nothing. A good rear derailleur and brakes come second. Things like suspension seat posts are just window-dressing.


Are there any other sites I should be aware of for used bikes?If you are in the States, try Craigslist. In Canada, kijiji.ca.

Personally, I would say that if you're concerned about getting the best bang for your buck, go used, or check your bike shops for older models that haven't sold. I bought an '08 last fall - new - from the shop, for about $600 less than the exact same '10 model.

When I first started looking at bikes, I memorized the Shimano derailleur names, in order from lowest to highest. (There aren't a lot of SRAM bikes around here that I was interested in.) It was a quick way to see if the asking price was reasonable or outrageous. (Altus, Acera and Alivio are found on $300 - $600 rec bikes, Deore is entry-level mountain, Sora is entry-level road, Deore LX is mid-level mtn, Tiagra mid level rd. XT, 105, Ultegra, and Dura-Ace are going to be out of your price level. Those of you in the know, correct me if I've got the order wrong, I haven't looked at components for a while.) If you see a bike with a Deore rear derailleur in your price range, it's a really good deal.

Regarding price and quality - I have a $500 hybrid and an $1800 touring bike. After two years of riding the hybrid, I need to replace and/or upgrade most of the drivetrain. The derailleur (Shimano Alivio) simply isn't made for anything more than recreational use. I have to keep tweaking the shifters so it won't skip in a couple of gears, and I've already replaced the rear rim. The stock tires are just fair and I flat often. After a year of riding the touring bike, it still works just as well as the day I bought it, and I plan on keeping it until the frame fails (hopefully 30+ years, at least.) The only things I need to replace on it in the next year are the chain and the brake pads, (aside from tubes after the occasional flat.) You do have to replace the cassette and front gears after a while (prob in the next 3 to 5 years at my current mileage) but it's still cheaper than buying a new bike.

I find that the price break, for me, is around $1000 or more. A new $500 bike needs much more in the way of upkeep, repairs and replacements over its lifetime. However, I do commute on it three months of the year, and it's effectively my vehicle during that time. So that's why I buy what I buy. Over 20 years, a $1800 bike is cheaper for me than buying a $600 bike every four years or so. Literally, though, YMMV.

The best advice though, is to get out there and test-ride! Make sure you take out some pricier ones for a spin, so you can see if it makes a difference to you.

Wow, this was really long! I only intended to jot down a quick reply. I'm also not trying to up-sell you, just pointing out why some people choose to spend more on a bike. I make less than 30k a year, so I know about budgeting. Well, sort of :D

I'm going to mix it up a little bit and advise you to look into Raleigh Hybrids,take a chance, go against the grain and forget Trek.
I have a Raleigh Passage 5.0 that I paid $500. for in '07 and am very happy with it.

This is all news to me. What exactly does a dual suspension fork look like? When I see a fork that has an accordion looking segment on it can I assume that that is a dual suspension fork?

What are the most important parts of a bike performance and quality wise in order from greatest to least?

Ive started browsing for used bikes. I'm not very impressed by eBay's selection. I would have expected them to have more bikes than I could ever hope to browse through. The list of hybrid bikes on eBay is quite small. I've started using this other site: localbiketrader.com . Are there any other sites I should be aware of for used bikes?

You have to know what your looking for, and looking at. The Shimano derailleur, being a Tourney or Atlus is of little to no importance, they both shift very smooth if properly adjusted.
The rims on the Schwinn are a true blessing, double walled 24 spoked Areo design, they
are super strong, and run very true. I hit a rock the other day that would have at least
dented most rims, much less bent them, ( nothing) perfect straight...But there is some draw
back to these rims, NO standard tube will fit them, they come with a long valve stem, not Presta, Shrader, they do not have one, so you have to buy extra long Presta tubes, and then the hole for the vavle stem is a little to large...but it fits fine.. The bike comes with Suntour front derailleur, crank, forks, handle bar set is probably the same one installed
on most bikes ...AWESOME..but made in China, where everything else comes from...I would
say that bikes 800.00 dollars and under, your just paying for brand name.....And if your not
a competitive cycle list, posting on the Hybrid Forum, would probably take you out of this
class, there are some positive post...Lock out forks, suspension seat post,( that was bashed as squiggle, and that is a true statement, there more comfortable than the rigid ones, but on your (butt) they feel great ! I never post positive or negative info on something, unless
I know what I'm saying...Just my two cent, worth..Richard :thumb:

I find that the price break, for me, is around $1000 or more. A new $500 bike needs much more in the way of upkeep, repairs and replacements over its lifetime. However, I do commute on it three months of the year, and it's effectively my vehicle during that time. So that's why I buy what I buy. Over 20 years, a $1800 bike is cheaper for me than buying a $600 bike every four years or so. Literally, though, YMMV.

The best advice though, is to get out there and test-ride! Make sure you take out some pricier ones for a spin, so you can see if it makes a difference to you.

Wow, this was really long! I only intended to jot down a quick reply. I'm also not trying to up-sell you, just pointing out why some people choose to spend more on a bike. I make less than 30k a year, so I know about budgeting. Well, sort of :D

I have test ridden a few bikes now that are within about 80 dollars of eachother (400 to 480) a Scott Sportster p6, FX 7.1, and 7.2 . I have to say that they felt great, but the realization that the sticker price is only the beginning (taxes, adjustments, accessories, etc.) kind of sent me back to the drawing board. Reading from your post above that my bike will likely need some significantly costly repairs within a year or so is also disheartening. What kind of mileage do you put on your bike/bikes per year? Is the terrain you ride on particularly rough? Do you ride fast/aggressively?

I don't plan on competing or covering any huge distances any time soon. I'm thinking, realistically, my average trip will be about 10-30 miles 2 to 3 times a week. I will probably push the pace often though. How does this compare to the amount of riding you do (wear wise)?

I have test ridden a few bikes now that are within about 80 dollars of eachother (400 to 480) a Scott Sportster p6, FX 7.1, and 7.2 . I have to say that they felt great, but the realization that the sticker price is only the beginning (taxes, adjustments, accessories, etc.) kind of sent me back to the drawing board. Reading from your post above that my bike will likely need some significantly costly repairs within a year or so is also disheartening. What kind of mileage do you put on your bike/bikes per year? Is the terrain you ride on particularly rough? Do you ride fast/aggressively?

I don't plan on competing or covering any huge distances any time soon. I'm thinking, realistically, my average trip will be about 10-30 miles 2 to 3 times a week. I will probably push the pace often though. How does this compare to the amount of riding you do (wear wise)?

There has been No major repairs, the bike has around 1000 miles on it and have only
had to tighten some cables, what I said was the rims are awesome, ( not cheap junk ), just do not make a replacement tube that fits like the factory one......Richard

I have test ridden a few bikes now that are within about 80 dollars of eachother (400 to 480) a Scott Sportster p6, FX 7.1, and 7.2 . I have to say that they felt great, but the realization that the sticker price is only the beginning (taxes, adjustments, accessories, etc.) kind of sent me back to the drawing board. Reading from your post above that my bike will likely need some significantly costly repairs within a year or so is also disheartening. What kind of mileage do you put on your bike/bikes per year? Is the terrain you ride on particularly rough? Do you ride fast/aggressively?

Even couriers and MTBers don't have the sort of repair bills you're worrying about. Just clean the power train occasionally and keep the tyres pumped up and brakes adjusted.

BTW: One way to know when a hybrid is not a sporty/performance hybrid is when it has a suspension fork. It might have a very small compression absorber, like in some of the Trek FX models, but it will not have a dual suspension fork. Those add 2 to 4 pounds of weight, and they absorb some of your energy as you pedal. A more performance-oriented hybrid will have a rigid, road bike-like fork.

That's not the only difference, but it is a dead giveaway.

Some of them dual suspension forks will have a "lock out" option, which locks them into place. This will reduce the power lost from them absorbing some of your pedaling energy. But you will still be carrying the extra weight. These forks can be nice for riding graveled trails and commuting, but you will pay a price on performance.

not always the case. the top 2 gary fisher performance dual sport hybrids both have suspension. i am sure there are other cases. anyways that argument makes no sense. top of the line mtb's have suspension forks. since a hybrid is a blend bike for trail and road, in no way does having a suspension imply that it is not performance. the logic does not compute.

...I would
say that bikes 800.00 dollars and under, your just paying for brand name....

que?

not always the case. the top 2 gary fisher performance dual sport hybrids both have suspension. i am sure there are other cases. anyways that argument makes no sense. top of the line mtb's have suspension forks. since a hybrid is a blend bike for trail and road, in no way does having a suspension imply that it is not performance. the logic does not compute.

The logic is there: a suspension fork does weigh more than a rigid fork ... but indeed, as you say, it does not "compute" ;)
The main reason for this is that weight is a marginal factor in the performance of bikes.
I've got what I call a "multisport hybrid" and it has a lockable, medium light suspension fork.
When riding on the flats, I lock it out so it doesn't slow me down and the difference in weight and aerodynamics is very small compared to a rigid fork.
When riding in the fields, I unlock it and thus I am able to reach higher speeds than I would with a rigid fork since riding fields with suspension is way easier.
So I agree with you that a suspension fork isn't a bad choice, even on performance bikes, given that it isn't a crappy fork ofcourse.

not always the case. the top 2 gary fisher performance dual sport hybrids both have suspension.


These aren't performance hybrids - they're more or less light 700c mountain bikes fitted with slicks. The design seems to be a good one and for once a suspension fork on a hybrid makes sense.



i am sure there are other cases. anyways that argument makes no sense. top of the line mtb's have suspension forks. since a hybrid is a blend bike for trail and road, in no way does having a suspension imply that it is not performance. the logic does not compute.

This is silly:

1. An MTB is a bike that is totally oriented towards offroad performance. It can and should embrace features that ruin road performance or add unnecessarily to the cost of a road oriented bike.

2. Not all MTBs have suspension forks, so you can't even argue that they are necessary for off road performance - a rigid MTB will handle trails that would trash an average suspension fork hybrid

These aren't performance hybrids - they're more or less light 700c mountain bikes fitted with slicks. The design seems to be a good one and for once a suspension fork on a hybrid makes sense.



This is silly:

1. An MTB is a bike that is totally oriented towards offroad performance. It can and should embrace features that ruin road performance or add unnecessarily to the cost of a road oriented bike.

2. Not all MTBs have suspension forks, so you can't even argue that they are necessary for off road performance - a rigid MTB will handle trails that would trash an average suspension fork hybrid

i dont think you would know a performance hybrid even if you were sitting on it. you cant even tell what a tire is. the higher end fisher dual-sport hybrids dont have slicks on. i know, ive seen them in person and own one from 2009.

1. An MTB is a bike that is totally oriented towards offroad performance. It can and should embrace features that ruin road performance or add unnecessarily to the cost of a road oriented bike.

i agree!

que?

When your dealing with bikes say ( around ) 800.00 dollars or less, your starting to mix
and match components of close to the same quality. Of course the one's toward the top of this budget, will more than likely have a few more gears, probably disk brakes, ( of which I am not a huge fan, unless in the mud ), V - Brakes work wonderful, and easy to maintain, or change out on the fly. My
point was Bikes under this price range, will all perform relatively close to the same. I would be more concerned with the bike Fitting ( you ) correctly, having lock out front
suspension, and weight of the bike, ( do not want a Tank ), and when your looking on the low
end of this price range, watch out for, cheap brakes, pedals, ( cheap fix if they break though.
and( fit ), the bike has to fit you properly, or it will be a horrible ride..The Radius brakes that
came factory on the Schwinn, after 1000 miles plus, have shown little to no wear, and I brake a lot, ( check out, down the gravel hill video ), the tire's look the same as new, my
only beef is that you can not lock out the forks for rode riding. ( But I spent around 200.00
on a new bike), if mine had lock out forks, theres not a bike I looked at, in local LBS, REI, and
Dicks Sporting Goods, and other big box stores that I would trade for. If the bike fits you perfect and has decent components, your not going to notice much riding difference between a 300.00 dollar
bike or a 650.00 dollar bike that might not fit you as well. Oh, and second most important
thing to fit, have it( tuned correctly) , even if this means paying a LBS, I can not count the times I have
heard people take there bike in for a tune up, and swear it's not there bike..LOL..because it
was never adjusted correctly, and did not realize how a professional can make it shift, brake,
etc...I hoped this cleared up my statement a little, also you must be able to look at the bike
and it calls out to you RIDE ME ! Bike Safely, :) Richard :thumb:

When your dealing with bikes say ( around ) 800.00 dollars or less, your starting to mix
and match components of close to the same quality. Of course the one's toward the top of this budget, will more than likely have a few more gears, probably disk brakes, ( of which I am not a huge fan, unless in the mud ), V - Brakes work wonderful, and easy to maintain, or change out on the fly. My
point was Bikes under this price range, will all perform relatively close to the same. I would be more concerned with the bike Fitting ( you ) correctly, having lock out front
suspension, and weight of the bike, ( do not want a Tank ), and when your looking on the low
end of this price range, watch out for, cheap brakes, pedals, ( cheap fix if they break though.
and( fit ), the bike has to fit you properly, or it will be a horrible ride..The Radius brakes that
came factory on the Schwinn, after 1000 miles plus, have shown little to no wear, and I brake a lot, ( check out, down the gravel hill video ), the tire's look the same as new, my
only beef is that you can not lock out the forks for rode riding. ( But I spent around 200.00
on a new bike), if mine had lock out forks, theres not a bike I looked at, in local LBS, REI, and
Dicks Sporting Goods, and other big box stores that I would trade for. If the bike fits you perfect and has decent components, your not going to notice much riding difference between a 300.00 dollar
bike or a 650.00 dollar bike that might not fit you as well. Oh, and second most important
thing to fit, have it( tuned correctly) , even if this means paying a LBS, I can not count the times I have
heard people take there bike in for a tune up, and swear it's not there bike..LOL..because it
was never adjusted correctly, and did not realize how a professional can make it shift, brake,
etc...I hoped this cleared up my statement a little, also you must be able to look at the bike
and it calls out to you RIDE ME ! Bike Safely, :) Richard :thumb:

Your post seems to suggest that there is a lot of variation in fitting/sizing between bikes. Shouldn't any two decent quality hybrids with the same frame size and height basically fit nearly identically (assuming your talking a performance hybrid where the seat will be approximately level or slightly higher than the handles)?

not always the case. the top 2 gary fisher performance dual sport hybrids both have suspension. i am sure there are other cases. anyways that argument makes no sense. top of the line mtb's have suspension forks. since a hybrid is a blend bike for trail and road, in no way does having a suspension imply that it is not performance. the logic does not compute.

I'm quite familiar with those Gary Fisher bikes. Those are nice bikes that let one ride road, path, and some light duty trails. But they are not performance/fitness hybrids. They are pretty heavy, up around 27-28 pounds. They are even equipped with heavier tires and wheels, for rougher riding. A lot of performance hybrids in the price range of the GF Montare will have lightweight road bike wheelsets and 700x28 tires. The Montare has heavier wheels with 700x38 tires. They do have a more aggressive geometry than a typical hybrid and do have some lighter components on them, like a carbon seat post and lighter weight stem and handlebar.

They are nice bikes, and do have good performance given that they can also handle rougher terrain.

The GF Montare is in the same price range as the Trek 7.6FX. If two equal riders went out on a Montare and a 7.6FX, the guy on the Montare would definitely have to work harder to stay with the guy on the Trek.

I'm going to mix it up a little bit and advise you to look into Raleigh Hybrids,take a chance, go against the grain and forget Trek.
I have a Raleigh Passage 5.0 that I paid $500. for in '07 and am very happy with it.

Raleigh does make a performance hybrid line, the Cadent series. The FT1 lists for around $550.
http://www.rei.com/product/796453

Decent bike, but I'd definitely pay the extra $50 to get the Cannondale Quick 4, get the carbon fork, better front wheel hub, and a few lighter weight parts.

When your dealing with bikes say ( around ) 800.00 dollars or less, your starting to mix
and match components of close to the same quality. Of course the one's toward the top of this budget, will more than likely have a few more gears, probably disk brakes, ( of which I am not a huge fan, unless in the mud ), V - Brakes work wonderful, and easy to maintain, or change out on the fly. My
point was Bikes under this price range, will all perform relatively close to the same. I would be more concerned with the bike Fitting ( you ) correctly, having lock out front
suspension, and weight of the bike, ( do not want a Tank ), and when your looking on the low
end of this price range, watch out for, cheap brakes, pedals, ( cheap fix if they break though.
and( fit ), the bike has to fit you properly, or it will be a horrible ride..The Radius brakes that
came factory on the Schwinn, after 1000 miles plus, have shown little to no wear, and I brake a lot, ( check out, down the gravel hill video ), the tire's look the same as new, my
only beef is that you can not lock out the forks for rode riding. ( But I spent around 200.00
on a new bike), if mine had lock out forks, theres not a bike I looked at, in local LBS, REI, and
Dicks Sporting Goods, and other big box stores that I would trade for. If the bike fits you perfect and has decent components, your not going to notice much riding difference between a 300.00 dollar
bike or a 650.00 dollar bike that might not fit you as well. Oh, and second most important
thing to fit, have it( tuned correctly) , even if this means paying a LBS, I can not count the times I have
heard people take there bike in for a tune up, and swear it's not there bike..LOL..because it
was never adjusted correctly, and did not realize how a professional can make it shift, brake,
etc...I hoped this cleared up my statement a little, also you must be able to look at the bike
and it calls out to you RIDE ME ! Bike Safely, :) Richard :thumb:

nobody said sizing and fit is not important. and i bet you would notice a difference between a bike that costs 300 or 650. that is a boatload of money for significantly better parts - from better tires, to far better shifting systems and brakes, and various other components that can shave off some pounds. 300 gets you very basic entry level, 650 you are starting to get towards the bikes just before the higher end that hit 850-1000, for the average consumer range of bikes.

i

I'm quite familiar with those Gary Fisher bikes. Those are nice bikes that let one ride road, path, and some light duty trails. But they are not performance/fitness hybrids. They are pretty heavy, up around 27-28 pounds. They are even equipped with heavier tires and wheels, for rougher riding. A lot of performance hybrids in the price range of the GF Montare will have lightweight road bike wheelsets and 700x28 tires. The Montare has heavier wheels with 700x38 tires. They do have a more aggressive geometry than a typical hybrid and do have some lighter components on them, like a carbon seat post and lighter weight stem and handlebar.

They are nice bikes, and do have good performance given that they can also handle rougher terrain.

The GF Montare is in the same price range as the Trek 7.6FX. If two equal riders went out on a Montare and a 7.6FX, the guy on the Montare would definitely have to work harder to stay with the guy on the Trek.

work harder where?

performance hybrids can be good at road or trail, or more road or more trail, depending upon where you want to ride. performance hybrids are just more aggressive, some are better fit for the road, others for off-road, from all the reading i did. i bet you if a guy went out on a montare vs a 7.6fx rider on a highly rugged urban situation, tons of potholes, or some off-road, they would have an easier time.

from what i read performance hybrids doesnt just mean "closest to a road bike on pavement to go fast", which is what your post implies. performance hybrids mean sporty, aggressive hybrids vs comfort hybrids. whether they are tweaked to be more dual sport, or more one or the other, is meaningless.

Your post seems to suggest that there is a lot of variation in fitting/sizing between bikes. Shouldn't any two decent quality hybrids with the same frame size and height basically fit nearly identically (assuming your talking a performance hybrid where the seat will be approximately level or slightly higher than the handles)?

I would go to a LBS or two, and have them fit me for a bike..Then your shopping for a new
bike is endless, you want maximum comfort, and performance at the same time...My seat was
a little to low in this video, This is only a 200.00 dollar bike without extras....and has a 1000
miles plus on it. Still rides like the day I brought it home, if not better.. :) Richard http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hkkIx_IFSm4