Bicycle Mechanics - Chain wont take crankset

I'm working on a SS build and installed a Pake crank 46 tooth, Note picture: the chain is not taking the crank, keeps slipping, I have it tight as I can and have a straight chainline, are there different size chains? HELP!

Before going further, lets make sure you don't have a 3/32" (derailleur) chain on a 1/8" (classic single speed) sprocket. Loosen the rear wheel and push it forward to slacken the chain and gently push any inner link onto the sprocket. It should freely go to the bottom with visible clearance between the inner plated and tooth.

You can also do an eyeball test. Reach into your pockets for a comparison gauge. The teeth of 3/32" sprockets are about the width of a Quarter, and 1/8" sprocket teeth the width of 2 dimes.

If you do have a chain/sprocket mis-match buy a 1/2x1/8" single speed chain and you'll be good to go.

I have run into this same thing on bmx bikes. It appears as though you have a 3/32" chain on a 1/8" chainring. You will need to replace your current chain with a 1/8" one.

Cheers

Thanks guys, I thought all chains were the same size, man, this build just keeps getting pricey...

Thanks guys, I thought all chains were the same size, man, this build just keeps getting pricey...

Not shilling for dealers, but sometimes saving money by DIY comes out more expensive than paying someone else.

BTW- I don't know your plans for that chain, but if you've pulled it tight and turned the cranks, there's a good chance that it's toast. The over wide chainring teeth will have pushed the plates out on the pins increasing the risk of snapping if mover to a derailleur bike.

Not shilling for dealers, but sometimes saving money by DIY comes out more expensive than paying someone else.

No Joke...

In my experience, it's the tools that will get you. I'm DIY'ing "Franken-Forza" (I used to wrench at a LBS), and I'm having to buy tools for "last-gen"technology/grouppos, for removal, in addition to the tools to install the latest and greatest. Thanks goodness they still use hex screws/bolts here and there!

Unfortunately, the mechanic in me has to buy the right tool, and it has to be of quality...It makes me realize how much for granted I took the shop's specialty tools. (ie, bottom bracket/cassette tools, etc) I'll be able to open my own service shop before too long. :D

Yesterday's purchase...a Park wheel truing stand.

No Joke...In my experience, it's the tools that will get you.
My economic "analysis" is that the first time you buy and use a tool, the job costs the total cost of the tool. For example if I'm doing a hub overhaul for the first time and need two $7 cone wrenches, the job cost $14 plus the grease and new bearings. After that the tool is free. :)

My economic "analysis" is that the first time you buy and use a tool, the job costs the total cost of the tool. For example if I'm doing a hub overhaul for the first time and need two $7 cone wrenches, the job cost $14 plus the grease and new bearings. After that the tool is free. :)

How about a bottom bracket chasing tool

Not shilling for dealers, but sometimes saving money by DIY comes out more expensive than paying someone else.

BTW- I don't know your plans for that chain, but if you've pulled it tight and turned the cranks, there's a good chance that it's toast. The over wide chainring teeth will have pushed the plates out on the pins increasing the risk of snapping if mover to a derailleur bike.
The Bike stores in my area are only open Mon- Saturdays, I work out of town, and Sat. is the only chance I can get in, and you have to be the first, after that it's "standing room only"..as far as the chain goes, it will go in the parts bucket..Damn, I must have $200 in failed experiments in that bucket!!

I wasn't criticizing, just offering a commentary on life in general. We've all started DIY projects trying to save dough and run into similar nasty surprises.

As for the $200.00 in that bucket, consider it an education cost. Hopefully you've learned $200.00 worth of what not to do, clearing the field for the future. Given the cost of education today, it might turn out to be a bargain after all.

My economic "analysis" is that the first time you buy and use a tool, the job costs the total cost of the tool. For example if I'm doing a hub overhaul for the first time and need two $7 cone wrenches, the job cost $14 plus the grease and new bearings. After that the tool is free. :)

That'll work for the smaller stuff...and regular maintenance...I just spent a couple of Benjamins on a Park TS-2 and have no problem there...truing wheels is something I can live without paying for.


How about a bottom bracket chasing tool

That's no joke either...for a moment I thought I was going to have to face by BB Shell. That was one tool I wouldn't buy...I would have to open a shop to pay for it.

Done derailing the thread.. :)

How about a bottom bracket chasing tool

I've never needed to chase bottom bracket threads with anything other than the proper cup, but if I did, I'd take it to the shop. I know of only one shop in the Houston area where I think they would know what I needed. Well, that's probably an exaggeration -- there are probably a couple.

The Bike stores in my area are only open Mon- Saturdays, I work out of town, and Sat. is the only chance I can get in, and you have to be the first, after that it's "standing room only"..as far as the chain goes, it will go in the parts bucket..Damn, I must have $200 in failed experiments in that bucket!!

Don't give up so easily, check this book out and read the appropriate section before you buy parts. It's very current a great one to have.

A good bible (http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-BBB-2-Blue-Repair/dp/B001B6NAW2/ref=pd_sim_sg_4)

Thanks guys, I thought all chains were the same size, man, this build just keeps getting pricey...
If you stick with 1/8" chain for your FG/SS bike you can use either 1/8" or 3/32" cogs and chainrings in any mix 'n' match combination.