Bicycle Mechanics - How to get this crown race off?
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07-11-10, 06:14 PM
From an '03 Raleigh Capri WSD. Frame is cracked, getting replaced. I've got everything else off the bike, but the fork crown race. Check out how the fork is shaped; there's no place to get in behind it. Hopefully the FLBS will have a tool for it, but should I just give up on it like the star nut, and be fixin' on replacing it?
Yeah, I know, the fork is chewed up. It's being trashed with the frame.
07-11-10, 06:18 PM
http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=51&item=CRP%2D1 this would be the tool you need to remove your race.
Park makes a crown race puller (http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=10&item=CRP-1) that forces two wedges under the race from either side, then uses a screw jack to push the steerer out. It doesn't always work if the wedges can't get a purchase under the race. I don't suggest buying the tool for $125.00, but a decent LBS will have one or a similar tool from another source.
I still do it with an old clam shucking knife that I drive under the race to get it started, then work it up by degrees, using a series of improvised wedges and mini pry bars. In some cases the dealer will need to do something similar before the Park tool can be used.
BTW- when you replace the crown race, look for one that has a chamfer on the underside so you can get started under it. If it doesn't have a chamfer grind one in yourself, you'll be glad to see it next time you need to get it off.
07-11-10, 08:34 PM
Thanks, fellas, I kinda guessed that would be the tool. And good tip on getting a chamfered race to replace it, if I have to. It'll depend on the design of the new fork, I suppose; whether it has a provision for a tool.
07-15-10, 08:26 PM
Update - frame came in yesterday. Good news - has its own headset ("integrated"). Bad news - seat tube damaged in shipment; another week's wait for the next one...
07-23-10, 10:18 PM
New frame is home. A bit confused about the headset. They gave me the bare minimum; no center stem cap. Only marking is FSA on the top cap; no markings on the bearings to indicate which model. No 411 on the stack sequence of the parts.
General headset instructions from the FSA web site kinda hint at it. Here are the five parts. I assume it's - left to right - top cap, compression ring, top bearing, bottom bearing, crown race. I also assume that's the top-to-bottom stack sequence. I sorta dummy-laid it out that way, without seating the crown race all the way on the fork, and it seemed to be the most logical and make for the smoothest rotation. Bearings definitely drop-in fit perfectly in the headtube this way. I guess the only thing I'm uncertain about is the split compression ring. Does that appear to be the right order? There's also a pic of the bottom "cavity" in the headtube where the bearing seats.
At least this crown race (if that's what it is) has enough "lip" under it to remove it reasonably.
07-23-10, 10:59 PM
All the new stuff gives you a crownrace like that, ae pretty easy to take off... U guess it right :)
07-24-10, 08:46 AM
The split compression ring is installed above the top bearing with the narrow end down and is compressed by the headset's top bearing cover. You have it pointed the proper way in the photo.
07-24-10, 07:06 PM
You have it pointed the proper way in the photo. Cool; that was my intent, to show both the sequence and the orientation.
Mocked it up with an extra stem on the steerer tube (hasn't been cut to size yet) as a hold-down, and it's working great. Thanks for the help, all. Good to see this site still kicking after being away for some years.
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