Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - How do you lock your bikes?

I'm pretty curious how my fellow BF members lock their bikes. As you know FG bikes have been getting popular, hence became a target for theft. I was wondering how you guys lock your bikes!


Me: I live in a pretty low crime area. My town is pretty much flooded with walmart bikes locked horribly with a teeny weak combo cable. Alot of people just lock their tob tube to something flimsy and it makes me sad.

(because since like no one steals bikes here): i use a Kryptonite Keeper 12 and a homemade chain lock for the front wheel. Yeah yeah, I know my chain lock can probably be broken by a bolt cutter in few seconds, but its just there as a deterrent anyways.

http://img80.imageshack.us/img80/2194/20100715233337.jpg
U-lock through the seat tube and the rear wheel to a solid object. And the chain lock through my downtube and my front wheel -> to something solid.

btw, anyone else use a homemade lock? :thumb:

Nevermind...

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41ggv2bVuSL._AA300_.jpg

I have one of these heavy duty bad boy, I lock it the same way you lock your front wheel, sometimes with my helmet.

Have you read Sheldon's article on locking yet?
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html

Yep, If I had a evolution mini or a FU mini I'd just do the rear wheel only, but since Keeper is much larger, I just do the seat tube also. Cant hurt!

I use sheldons method. However, I have heard you can saw through the back wheel, so im a little worried...

But, I usually bring my bike in with me. I have almost 1600 put into it, and I dont like it being too far away from me

... As you know FG bikes have been getting popular, hence became a target for theft.

I laughed out loud. Then I cried like a baby. My guess is soon your town will experience things like color television sets, push button telephones and dry cleaners. Just like fixed/SS bikes these are good things. Do not be afraid. Embrace them all.

I don't think it's safe just locking the rear, I'd be worry more about the front rather than the rear. Since your frame has track ends, it's harder to take out the rear if they don't know how to lift up the chain, whereas the front is held together by two bolts, anyone with a wrench could run away with the wheel. You've said you live in a low crime area and there are many more easier targets than your dual locks, I would just go with that set up.

Evo mini around the seat tube.

1. I bring it inside.
2. If leaving for ten minutes, mini U thru frame / rear wheel / immovable object
3. 10 min to 1 hour, add second u lock securing front wheel to frame / immovable object.
4. More than 1 hour, bring it inside / go home / check on it alot.

Depends on the circumstances. I always have a little cable lock on the bike, even on trips where I don't plan to stop anywhere. In our fairly safe area that's all I use when locking the bike for shopping trips, lunches, meetings, etc. But I also have a U-lock that I use if riding into the city (SF or Oakland) and will be leaving the bike locked up outside. The first time I used the U-lock was on a ride with a stop at a science museum in SF. Two people with me on the ride used their cable lock and when we came out my bike was the only one left.

Depends on the circumstances. I always have a little cable lock on the bike, even on trips where I don't plan to stop anywhere. In our fairly safe area that's all I use when locking the bike for shopping trips, lunches, meetings, etc. But I also have a U-lock that I use if riding into the city (SF or Oakland) and will be leaving the bike locked up outside. The first time I used the U-lock was on a ride with a stop at a science museum in SF. Two people with me on the ride used their cable lock and when we came out my bike was the only one left.

woooow, thats terrible man.

I use a Kryptonite Faggetaboudit Standard U-lock through the frame and back wheel. I run a Kryptonite cable through the front wheel and use the U lock to lock it down. Then of course the brooks saddle is slightly secured with a extra piece of chain wrapped in an a spare tire tube. I'll post a pic later tonight or tm.
To be honest with you though, I'm seriously paranoid about theft. I got a bit of of lock envy in brooklyn. I'm thinking about upgrading. My lock set up looks seriously wimpy when you look at others in Brooklyn. Everyone has a huge chain lock making my little U-Lock look like a little biotch. Whatever, it works for now.

Krypto 12mm cable through frame and wheels. Have yet to experience a bike being stolen so im not quite so paranoid about it I guess. It will be a hard lesson though.

I use the Kryptonite NY Standard U-lock for the seat tube, rear wheel, & whatever I'm locking to, and the evolution mini for the front wheel. I don't do anything to secure other stuff...although I have toyed with the idea of using superglue & ball bearings for some of the allen bolts but haven't decided whether it's worth the hassle (e.g. for the stem, seat post, and saddle).

mini Kryptonite Faggetaboudit U-lock thru rear wheel as Sheldon's method.
cable thru frame, ulock, front and rear wheel.

Wait a second... you people lock your bikes? Doesn't that scratch the paint... **** that.

I use sheldon's method.

I had seen a video of someone sawing through the rear wheel to take the frame, however, that was on a cheap crappy mountain bike. with a fully tensioned road wheel, i would imagine the pinch on such a saw would make it almost impossible to saw through without first loosening the spokes.

Additionally, my wheels are easily more valuable than the frame, so sawing through the rear wheel is going to severely cut into any profit they make.

And if they recognize that they can't pull the rear wheel through the triangle, and thus wish to saw through the wheel, then the must know at least a little about bikes and realize that they'd be destroying the most valuable part of my bike, and thus simply not bother.

I usually get to keep mine inside at work.... but for a quick one I would usually have my mini evo 4 through the rear wheel and frame to unmovable object. For a longer time I would add on the accessory cable and/or even a second mini evo 4 LS (I have that one as a spare) depending on the location.

I use sheldon's method.

I had seen a video of someone sawing through the rear wheel to take the frame, however, that was on a cheap crappy mountain bike. with a fully tensioned road wheel, i would imagine the pinch on such a saw would make it almost impossible to saw through without first loosening the spokes.

I dont understand what would be hard about cutting thru a wheel... Not arguing, but curious.

Also, your logic about thieves not sawing thru "valuable" parts of a bike is a little weird.
I get offered beautiful bikes that definitely are worth $500 from guys in the neighborhood about twice a year.
Their asking price: $25 to $50.
And other dudes collect scrap metal all day... Broken Ac units, rebar, f-ed up metal shelving.
They will push it miles in a shopping cart. A bike that would get them $50 in one shot... Think about it.

Anyway... Be careful and I hope everyones rides stay safely in your hands.
Peace.

I try to bring mine in with me everywhere, but if not, I sheldon lock the rear wheel, and lock my helmet to that.

...although I have toyed with the idea of using superglue & ball bearings for some of the allen bolts but haven't decided whether it's worth the hassle (e.g. for the stem, seat post, and saddle).

Solder works too. I just did that on my bikes that I have everything set how I want it. They make solder wicking that soaks the solder back up when you want to get it out. 5 minutes....

Also see:

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?520639-Some-lock-advice-from-a-locksmith&highlight=advice+from+a+locksmith

Solder works too. I just did that on my bikes that I have everything set how I want it. They make solder wicking that soaks the solder back up when you want to get it out. 5 minutes....

Also see:

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?520639-Some-lock-advice-from-a-locksmith&highlight=advice+from+a+locksmith

Thanks! :)

Solder sounds much easier. dumb question: what type of solder did you usee.g. lead, lead-free, silver alloy, etc? Also, did you have any problems with heating the allen bolt to a high enough temp to melt the solder?

I use a Krypyonite on the frame/backwheel connected with a Krytonite cable for the front wheel.

The first time I used the U-lock was on a ride with a stop at a science museum in SF. Two people with me on the ride used their cable lock and when we came out my bike was the only one left.

Yup, the Academy of Sciences and the de Young Museum are a hot place for bike thieves. They specifically look for cable locks. So, ironically, cable locks act as an attractant rather than a deterrent out there.

Sheldon here. Wheel and frame. $15 MEC u-lock.

If they want your bike they will take it. I prefer to limit the crack heads and teenagers who want a fixed rear wheel for their conversion.

$100-$150 lock setup or $200 deductible and I can ride 30 pounds lighter? I dunno, just had so many bikes stolen over the years that I never le the bike out of my sight. Never had a lock defeated, it's always been a break in or me leaving it unattended for 2 minutes tops.

Line of sight. Simple lock.

I dont understand what would be hard about cutting thru a wheel... Not arguing, but curious.

Also, your logic about thieves not sawing thru "valuable" parts of a bike is a little weird.
I get offered beautiful bikes that definitely are worth $500 from guys in the neighborhood about twice a year.
Their asking price: $25 to $50.
And other dudes collect scrap metal all day... Broken Ac units, rebar, f-ed up metal shelving.
They will push it miles in a shopping cart. A bike that would get them $50 in one shot... Think about it.

Anyway... Be careful and I hope everyones rides stay safely in your hands.
Peace.

If someone really wants to get your bike, they can. It's just a matter of how much time and effort you can put between them and your bike.

I've seen the video of a guy sawing through a locked wheel. If I recall correctly, it's sped up to make it look like it won't take very long. But either way, if somebody bothers to bring a saw and spend the time getting through the rim, most locks aren't going to fare much better. If there's another bike around and yours is relatively hard to liberate, chances are pretty good the thief will move on.

Regarding front vs back, I'd be a lot more disappointed if someone took my back wheel, so if I'm just locking up one, it's the rear. Yes, unbolting the front isn't too tricky, but really, neither is the rear. Thieves may be dumb as a rule, but I don't think they'll be scratching their heads about how to remove an unlocked rear wheel -- getting the chain out of the way isn't exactly rocket science.

Really, anything that's not locked, you shouldn't be surprised when it eventually disappears. For me, locking the front every time I park just isn't worth the effort where I live, and I'm okay knowing that my wheel may eventually get pinched as a result.

I usually just lock with one U-Lock around the frame and front wheel. But because my nicer ride is just about done (literally 1 piece waiting for in the mail ughhh) I have bought a second U-Lock for the rear wheel and frame.

Thanks! :)

Solder sounds much easier. dumb question: what type of solder did you usee.g. lead, lead-free, silver alloy, etc? Also, did you have any problems with heating the allen bolt to a high enough temp to melt the solder?


Not really sure, I had it laying around for small electronics projects. Most solder should work. The heat was no problem, but it does take a steady hand to ensure you don't melt/scratch the paint on your bike.

I use the Sheldon method. I do not carry a separate lock for the front wheel. It takes about 5 seconds to take the front wheel off, so that's what I do and lock it with the rest using the same lock; thus eliminating the need to carry around a second lock. Maybe someday I'll get one of those fancy phones with a camera and I'll take a picture.

Sheldon the back wheel. Pitlock on the front.

1. I bring it inside.
2. If leaving for ten minutes, mini U thru frame / rear wheel / immovable object
3. 10 min to 1 hour, add second u lock securing front wheel to frame / immovable object.
4. More than 1 hour, bring it inside / go home / check on it alot.

I go with # 1 and 4. U-Lock thru the rear wheel and around the seatpost to a parking meter. If it's unattended and out of sight (but I generally keep it in sight) for just a few moments. Anything longer and the bike stays with me or is indoors. If my bike isn't welcome, neither am I. Videos I've seen, you could put 3 locks (of differing types) on a bike and it would take an average person about 1.5-2 minutes to learn, practice and master the methods proficiently enough of picking each type of lock, so 10 min to 1+ hours, you've probably spotted a real thief enough time to not only get thru the 2 or 3 locks, but get an 8 minute head start to get away. In 8 minutes, they are out of sight, pick a direction they went too, even if you could get in a car to find them.

woooow, thats terrible man.

I use a Kryptonite Faggetaboudit Standard U-lock through the frame and back wheel. I run a Kryptonite cable through the front wheel and use the U lock to lock it down. Then of course the brooks saddle is slightly secured with a extra piece of chain wrapped in an a spare tire tube. I'll post a pic later tonight or tm.
To be honest with you though, I'm seriously paranoid about theft. I got a bit of of lock envy in brooklyn. I'm thinking about upgrading. My lock set up looks seriously wimpy when you look at others in Brooklyn. Everyone has a huge chain lock making my little U-Lock look like a little biotch. Whatever, it works for now.

Like these?

http://www.amazon.com/OnGuard-Mastiff-Bike-Chain-5022D/dp/B00206H7NU
http://www.rei.com/product/731893?preferredSku=7318930018&cm_mmc=cse_froogle-_-datafeed-_-product-_-7318930018&mr:trackingCode=35921718-92AB-DE11-93DB-0019B9C043EB&mr:referralID=NA

Easy picks:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HAGbXyNibgM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ojKXychqYHc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fvjp0qGPBi4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2vLtpVPqhI

I figure a $ 10-15 U-lock is just as good as the higher dollar ones based on the videos ? Sad part, 1st time I tried picking my own lock, it took me 7 seconds and the guy in the video took about 4 to pick it, actual/real time and wasn't explaining the process in a tutorial, when he had the tools in hand(s). Thieves must really be having a good laugh at the expense of bike owners ? Several locks and the thief is probably thinking you're challenging and betting whether he can get it done before you buy your Starbuck's caramel venti frappucino ? Everyone with a bike has every right to harbor feelings of paranoia. I do, I just hope I catch the thief in the event it happens and do it to him while he's caught off guard and in a compromising position so I can get in as many free shots. If he still gets up & kicks my butt and takes the bike, more power to him. But if he's left to my mercy, there aren't enough innocent bystanders around to pull me off of him should I go off that way. The other option, detain until the police get there and let that run it's course.

I posted the video links, not so much that anyone would take up bike theft as a hobby, just warning all of what we're really up against.

The whole "open a krypt u lock with a BIC pen" was long time ago. They changed it so its not the cylinder key thing anymore.

The whole "open a krypt u lock with a BIC pen" was long time ago. They changed it so its not the cylinder key thing anymore.

I understand that, but you can still get the U-lock with the cylinder key style just the same. The thing is that some of the bic style pens are made in different circumferences and some don't work and in that regard are probably better than the traditional key style lock ? The thief has to get the right bic pen size. The traditional key style lock that's a hair pin and a pick tool from being a theft. Some of those videos were 20 seconds of actual time picking the lock. A combination lock pick, that's a visual and audible method that is just as quick as the traditional key. So throw 3 locks on your bike, 2 U-locks and a cable with a combination or traditional key lock and I figure the thief takes 2 minutes if they pause in between the locks ? Sure the thief had to work a little more, but lock a bike up on the apartment patio or a sidewalk bike parking area and it takes a thief no time at all to get a bike with the time available. With a single lock, go into a convenience store and take a little longer to decide whether a soda or sport drink is what you want, then get behind a few customers at the register and the bike is gone when you come out, especially if the thief watches the store for cyclists. It could happen in broad day light. I know that's paranoid, yet possible.

I understand that, but you can still get the U-lock with the cylinder key style just the same. The thing is that some of the bic style pens are made in different circumferences and some don't work and in that regard are probably better than the traditional key style lock ? The thief has to get the right bic pen size. The traditional key style lock that's a hair pin and a pick tool from being a theft. Some of those videos were 20 seconds of actual time picking the lock. A combination lock pick, that's a visual and audible method that is just as quick as the traditional key. So throw 3 locks on your bike, 2 U-locks and a cable with a combination or traditional key lock and I figure the thief takes 2 minutes if they pause in between the locks ? Sure the thief had to work a little more, but lock a bike up on the apartment patio or a sidewalk bike parking area and it takes a thief no time at all to get a bike with the time available. With a single lock, go into a convenience store and take a little longer to decide whether a soda or sport drink is what you want, then get behind a few customers at the register and the bike is gone when you come out, especially if the thief watches the store for cyclists. It could happen in broad day light. I know that's paranoid, yet possible.

I tried the bic pen method on my Kryptonite Evolution 4 and I cant even remotely come close to getting a pen in the key way, its way too narrower (only slight bigger around than the key).
Looking at the tumbler design I'd be surprised if some one could pick it in the streets in under 5 mins even with lots practice. The pins appear to be on the top and bottom of the cylinder and the tension wrench would need to be inserted the full length of the key way due to the fact that each of the tumblers seems to be separate piece.

Add to the fact that I generally lock my bike to crowded bike racks with the top of the lock facing down and in, they wouldn't have any easy time getting a good angle to pick the lock in the first place.

//of course my mechanical break down of the internals could be completely wrong being that I didnt feel like cracking it open to examine how it worked and just examined it externally.

Wait a second... you people lock your bikes? Doesn't that scratch the paint... **** that.
That's why G*d made powdercoat.

pretty much Sheldon's method but with both wheels locked together

- remove front wheel
- position bike against pole
--------none drive side
--------crank facing forward
- position front wheel on non-drive side
------- between non-drive crank and frame
-------- front rim just crosses with rear rim
Apply mini U-lock where the two wheels meet

I disassemble my bike to components and put them in a heavy duty waterproof sack, then hoist it up into a nearby tree. It works pretty well but I hear in some bigger cities the thieves are learning to climb trees.

pretty much Sheldon's method but with both wheels locked together

- remove front wheel
- position bike against pole
--------none drive side
--------crank facing forward
- position front wheel on non-drive side
------- between non-drive crank and frame
-------- front rim just crosses with rear rim
Apply mini U-lock where the two wheels meet

Yup, exactly what I do.

I tried the bic pen method on my Kryptonite Evolution 4 and I cant even remotely come close to getting a pen in the key way, its way too narrower (only slight bigger around than the key).
Looking at the tumbler design I'd be surprised if some one could pick it in the streets in under 5 mins even with lots practice. The pins appear to be on the top and bottom of the cylinder and the tension wrench would need to be inserted the full length of the key way due to the fact that each of the tumblers seems to be separate piece.

Add to the fact that I generally lock my bike to crowded bike racks with the top of the lock facing down and in, they wouldn't have any easy time getting a good angle to pick the lock in the first place.

//of course my mechanical break down of the internals could be completely wrong being that I didnt feel like cracking it open to examine how it worked and just examined it externally.

Why would you think that someone couldn't pick a keyed lock in the street in under 5 minutes ? The videos show these people doing it in under a minute and a video longer than a minute but less than 5 minutes, they were narrating the video while they were picking that lock. The locks that get picked by a bic pen, those videos indicate that a theft in the street or elsewhere is just as quick as if one had the actual key for it. Even if it took them 5 minutes, just yesterday, I locked my bike up on a rack and was gone for 20-30 minutes in an Apple computer store. And just from observation, the area had high pedestrian traffic, Nobody there long enough to care about whether anyone was locking their bike up or picking a lock. Just trying to get my bike in and out of the rack area was a chore, I had no problem rotating the lock to get a better angle on it and that was with the key.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7y2TGNbLDMg

I assume most bike thieves aren't smart enough / skilled enough to pick locks quickly and efficiently.

If they were, they'd have jobs.

This of course excludes the "pro" bike thieves, but you're not really going to stop them anyway.

exactly. we're just trying to stop the local crack head from snatching our wheels

exactly. we're just trying to stop the local crack head from snatching our wheels
Or local hood rat with a pair of bolt cutters.

Again, not the types with the mental acuity to learn how to reverse-pick a schlage sc4 keyway.

So many lock threads today. I'm about to order a OnGuard5018 to go from back wheel to frame to object. On Guard STD 5001 U-Lock to go from Front wheel to frame. And OnGuard pitbull mini ulock and cable to go from rear wheel to front wheel. I don't even want to think about what a pain its going to be to secure all these locks, and I'm hoping a theif wont want to think about what a pain it will be to cut them all.

Why would you think that someone couldn't pick a keyed lock in the street in under 5 minutes ? The videos show these people doing it in under a minute and a video longer than a minute but less than 5 minutes, they were narrating the video while they were picking that lock. The locks that get picked by a bic pen, those videos indicate that a theft in the street or elsewhere is just as quick as if one had the actual key for it. Even if it took them 5 minutes, just yesterday, I locked my bike up on a rack and was gone for 20-30 minutes in an Apple computer store. And just from observation, the area had high pedestrian traffic, Nobody there long enough to care about whether anyone was locking their bike up or picking a lock. Just trying to get my bike in and out of the rack area was a chore, I had no problem rotating the lock to get a better angle on it and that was with the key.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7y2TGNbLDMg

Not all locks are built and designed the same. Different tumbler designs increase the difficulty of picking a lock. If you noticed in the videos that where posted the guy picked one lock in a matter of seconds, and spent several minutes on the next lock. It still took him several minutes to rake the lock open under optimal circumstances, and Im sure he had plenty of practice before he started filming too.

When I lock my bike up I make sure to take up as much space within the lock as possible so that it cant be rotated and more importantly so someone cant pop it open with a bottle jack.