Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - Does anyone feel this way?

The more I unscrew and re-screw my stem's face clamp, the higher the chance I have of dying.

LOL. Yea, stem plates are one of those things that I'll swap out a bar, screw the plate back on, double check, double check the double check, go get a cup of coffee, come back, check again, put everything away, finish my coffee and then before riding run upstairs, grab the Allen wrenches and make sure again. Then I obsess over whether I greased the bolts or not. This despite the fact see-through green grease is oozing out everywhere. Then, I wipe it down, try to get over myself and go ride.

While I'm sprinting hard and doing lots of skids is tough on your stems BMXers use stems that function the same way, if a little more robust, and they have no problems. They slam on them waaaaay harder and death is not an issue. Basically, unless you somehow forget to fasten your stem up, you should be ok. Even if you don't do it up properly and your bars do slip I don't think death is going to ensue.
I get the fear, but it is 100% irrational.

For me, its more of the seat-post connection to the seat. Mines always slowly unscrews itself after a mile worth of bumps.

Put a drop of blue Loctite on the bolt.

All of my threadless stems have 4 bolt bar clamps. There is no redundancy with the 2 bolt designs, and if one of those bolts decides to strip out while riding, a very bad outcome will ensue.

When I built my Soma Rush I had a choice of a threaded or threadless fork. I wanted threaded but everyone suggested threadless.....as being better. If I where to do it over again I would definitely do a threaded fork. I never have had problems with my numerous previous bikes that were threaded forks and like the look, the height adjustment aspect and many other aspects of threaded vs threadless forks.

Don't over tighten and always lube the threads.

The former is uber hard skillz to learn. I use the flex of my hex wrench. But you know, some people tighten the bolts so hard the handlebar is left deformed. (and evidently bolts never failed during the use by those users as no trace of slippage detectable) But you shouldn't risk it when you don't need to. If you feel your stem is too trashed, replace it.

I try to get stems with bigger bolts like 5-6mm hex. I get more feel of threads. I know some stems use 4mm, but the hex wrenches at that size (or smaller) start to twist enough that I can't feel the bolts seizing sometimes. Totally uncool.

Stripping threads feels like sudden release of tension. You won't "hear" it. You will feel it release. I am lucky I never had bolts snap in the middle tho.

When I built my Soma Rush I had a choice of a threaded or threadless fork. I wanted threaded but everyone suggested threadless.....as being better. If I where to do it over again I would definitely do a threaded fork. I never have had problems with my numerous previous bikes that were threaded forks and like the look, the height adjustment aspect and many other aspects of threaded vs threadless forks.

and this is relevant how?

and this is relevant how?

The concern that the OP brings up is relevant to threadless forks only, with a threaded fork the appropriate stem would not have the cap to worry about. It just seems to me for my personal preferences that any benefit of the threadless fork is outweighed by the other downside aspects to it. No big deal either way though.

and we're not discussing threaded vs threadless, just his concern on face plate bolts.

and we're not discussing threaded vs threadless, just his concern on face plate bolts.

Sorry I contributed to this thread....but yes we are in fact discussing threaded vs threadless indirectly in that the threadless has a face plate (thus the OP's concern) whereas with the threaded fork the stem would NOT have the faceplate to worry about.

http://gotgifs.com/gifs/1272588734.gif

http://gotgifs.com/gifs/1272588734.gif

Scrod...which one is me?

Actually, some quill (threaded) stems also have faceplates >>> http://www.ride-this.com/index.php/kalloy-al809-adjustable-quill-stem-254-black.html?source=googleps

Twice as much to worry about here :eek:

http://gotgifs.com/gifs/1272588734.gif

jesus I cried

[QUOTE=Tomo_Ishi;11128270]Don't over tighten

a skill you must learn. overtightened my old stem and snapped the faceplate. i was pissed

[/quote] bro.

this, like all other bicycle maintenance, is a skill that has to be learned. When I first started working on bikes, I made TONS of mistakes (under-tightening and over-tightening my stem faceplate being two of them). I remember mashing up a hill and having my bars roll under on me. Scary.

I've also had crank arms fall off the bottom bracket while riding. And hubs stip out. And pedals detach from the pedal spindle. And had clipless systems fail. And seatposts collapse into the seat tube. And seats rotate upwards on me because I didn't tighten down the clamp enough. I think that's probably most of it...

Now, though, I consider myself to be one of the better wrenches I know. Certainly better than the guys who work at most shops around here.

Just don't be such a puss about stuff and learn from your mistakes.

I used to obsess over tightening the seatpost clamp. I tightened it so hard it literally pulled the metal in half, still works though.

if your worried, buy a torque wrench

if your worried, buy a torque wrench

thank you, I was wondering how long it was going to take before someone mentioned the one way to ensure that you don't do something stupid.

thank you, I was wondering how long it was going to take before someone mentioned the one way to ensure that you don't do something stupid.

Good mechanics don't need torque wrenches.

Also, OP, don't know if you know this already, but here's a tip for tightening stem faceplates:
-Always rotate which screw you're tightening. On 4-bolt designs, you want to go to the diagonal and then the vertically opposite bolt. Just eyeball it and make sure the stem is tightening down evenly on bottom and top. It's really easy to strip these bolts if you tighten the bottom/top so hard that it pulls out the other side.

Good mechanics don't need torque wrenches.


obsessive mechanics have a few on their bench at all times, especially when they deal with carbon components constantly.

Put a drop of blue Loctite on the bolt.

+1

Good mechanics don't need torque wrenches.

Funny, I've never heard a good mechanic say that...

My preferred mechanic (one of the few that I trust) is the owner of a LBS called Nelo's. He's an ex-racer Brazilian. He used to be the head mechanic for a few different professional bike teams and has wrenched on bikes at some of the most elite races in the world (Giro d'Italia). I've never seen him use a torque wrench. Do you know a more qualified mechanic than that?

Also, his shop now deals exclusively in Wilier, Kuota, Colnago, Cannondale and Tomassini...so it's not like he doesn't wrench on carbon bikes regularly.

Perhaps good professional mechanics don't need torque wrenches, but I as a rank amateur find them useful to get consistent tightness of bolts, particularly where the value is high such as crank arm bolts. I can also determine accurately if such a bolted connection is remaining tight, or needing to be re-tightened.

If my bike had any sort of carbon fibre components, I'd like my mechanic to use a torque wrench.

If my bike had any sort of carbon fibre components, I'd like my mechanic to use a torque wrench.

meh. CF ain't no thang. I've done work on steel, aluminum, titanium and CF bikes, and honestly it doesn't matter. Fixie riders all think CF is so much more fragile than it really is.

Good mechanics don't need torque wrenches.


Funny, I've never heard a good mechanic say that...



What fuzz2050 said..!!! Wow.... hahaha :lol:

Good mechanics don't need torque wrenches.
Heh, the best mechanics have learned by f_ing up ALOT! You can either learn by using the proper tool, or breaking tons of sh*t.

meh. CF ain't no thang. I've done work on steel, aluminum, titanium and CF bikes, and honestly it doesn't matter. Fixie riders all think CF is so much more fragile than it really is.
Youre fired! ;^)

Good mechanics don't need torque wrenches.

That's what one said right before he stripped out a wheel stud on my car.

meh. CF ain't no thang. I've done work on steel, aluminum, titanium and CF bikes, and honestly it doesn't matter. Fixie riders all think CF is so much more fragile than it really is.

Fail.

Good mechanics have a torque wrench... mine usually hangs on a wall to impress people and for the odd occasion I am working on carbon fibre bikes.

Amateurs should invest in a torque wrench... it is amazing to see how many people who have no idea how tight some parts have to be and then there are the gorillas who over torque things and screw things up.

I have a few local racers who frequent my shop and they ride CF bikes that cost upwards of $7000.00... if I use a torque wrench I can ensure that the part is set to factoryspecs and of something fails I am then confident that it wasn't due to a bolt not being torqued to those exact specs.

Perhaps good professional mechanics don't need torque wrenches, but I as a rank amateur find them useful to get consistent tightness of bolts, particularly where the value is high such as crank arm bolts. I can also determine accurately if such a bolted connection is remaining tight, or needing to be re-tightened.

Dude... I would trust you to work on my bike more than I would some of the local wrenches.

Fail.

Good mechanics have a torque wrench... mine usually hangs on a wall to impress people and for the odd occasion I am working on carbon fibre bikes.

Amateurs should invest in a torque wrench... it is amazing to see how many people who have no idea how tight some parts have to be and then there are the gorillas who over torque things and screw things up.

I have a few local racers who frequent my shop and they ride CF bikes that cost upwards of $7000.00... if I use a torque wrench I can ensure that the part is set to factoryspecs and of something fails I am then confident that it wasn't due to a bolt not being torqued to those exact specs.


Yeah, I might be singing a different tune if I worked on bikes professionally and was liable for any screw ups. BUT, since I only work on me and my friends' bikes, I feel pretty confident in my ability to just "feel it out," even if I am tightening a carbon fiber stem onto a carbon fiber steerer tube or what have you...

A good mechanic doesn't need a torque wrench that reads inch pounds unless he's an aircraft mechanic.

A good mechanic has a torque wrench that reads in foot pounds AND has been calibrated.

I've seen more people strip oil pan bolts, stem bolts and crank bolts etc. over the years and just chuckle. Know what to insanely tighten and not.

Geeze, you guys go in depth. The only things that ever got really torqued (by used of a pipe and wrench) are axel nuts. As for stems use a criss cross pattern until evenly tight. I've never had anything slip and only stripped out a stem once and learned my lesson.

Fixie riders all think CF is so much more fragile than it really is.

Naw, it's pretty much everyone riding a bike.

"You could drive a car with your feet if you wanted to, but that doesn't make it a good idea."

Lube + torque wrench is the only proper way.

As for the original question, no I never ever worry about this. It doesn't take much pressure for it to be solidly engaged. By hand one is way more likely to over tighten and strip than under tighten.

Actually, some quill (threaded) stems also have faceplates >>> http://www.ride-this.com/index.php/kalloy-al809-adjustable-quill-stem-254-black.html?source=googleps

Twice as much to worry about here :eek:
And that's not the only one:
http://www.velobase.com/CompImages/Stems/8C6F14E1-C559-4A85-BA7A-8FAD8FADB970.jpeg

those arent the only two.

And that's not the only one:
http://www.velobase.com/CompImages/Stems/8C6F14E1-C559-4A85-BA7A-8FAD8FADB970.jpeg

Cool lookin stem, whats the make?

It might be more helpful to suggest us a good affordable torque wrench. ... I am pretty sure I saw one at a hardware store (with foot-pounds) costing a little over 100. That's a bit too far for me if there were alternatives. (especially because that's a small one and won't work for cranks and lockrings.)

someone, donate a torque wrench, digital calipers, and a scale to me. thank you.

Cool lookin stem, whats the make?
Constrictor (http://www.velobase.com/ViewSingleComponent.aspx?ID=ADF8066A-8363-4304-97AF-B92DA57BAC06&Enum=102&AbsPos=0).

It might be more helpful to suggest us a good affordable torque wrench.

Google Shopping, look for "beam torque wrench"

Click type wrenches are a lot easier to use if you're doing a lot of fasteners, but the beam type isn't rocket science, and should be available for $10-20 USD or local equivalent. Cheap enough that a little extra at the local auto parts store will probably still be less than the shipping to order one.

A click screwdriver type calibrated in inch-pounds like the FAT Wrench also comes in handy if you ever deal with screws that are likely to strip out, or anything that needs to be assembled the same way every time. Sure, it's $40, but that's often cheaper than stripping out one screwhole in an aluminum part.