Hybrid Bicycles - When do you clean your chain?

I was just wondering about the schedule you employ to clean your chains---is it hours, rides, dirty rides, miles, etc? How often do you clean your chain and re-apply lube?

TSC

I clean and lube mine every week to two weeks when I wash and lube the rest of the bike. I also do it when theres a good deal of dirt/mud on it.

I clean it when it's dirty.
Question is: "what is dirty?"

Whenever i can no longer see the blinky metal, I clean it and re-lube it ... this is about once a week guess.

I use a wax based chain lube which cleans and lubricates. I 'clean and lubricate' my chain when it starts to squeak.

It IS a fxn of dirty miles for me! No schedule otherwise...
...just hate to see rust on a chain.

When the rear derailleur starts building up sludge, seems to catch everything first. :)

I clean mine (and the rest of the powertrain,) whenever it starts to shift funny, or late, or slowly, or less precisely, - or, whenever it starts to make noise. That point can be anywhere from a week, to a couple months (the chain would still get a reoiling at least once a month. I ride 30-40 miles daily.

p.s. The rest of the bike usually gets a good washing at the same time - before relubing, and reassembling, everything. After relubing, try to wipe almost all of the fresh lubrication off with a dry/oily rag.

Run your finger back and forth along the top of the chain. The rollers should roll easily and smoothly. If not, it's time to clean/lube the chain. bk

When it doesn't shift well. Anywhere from 100 to 500 miles.

I usually clean my chain along with my entire drivetrain about once every other week. Unless I've really stacked on a lot of miles that week, or I've ridden in/after the rain. In that case I'll do it about once a week.

This may sound a little crazy, but works perfect and is fast, and does a better job !
These kind of post conflict with the tools required to do the job correctly, no tools
required. I use the generic brand of brake cleaner from the local auto parts store.
They range from 2 dollars to 5 dollars, catch them on sale. Spray on your chain,
( avoiding anything and everything but the chain. ) The grim comes off like nothing,
no towels needed, etc...Chain will be like brand new. Then reapply preferred chain
lube. Each can is good for about 4 cleanings, depending on how much grim is there.
Sorry, you do not need the tool for chain cleaning, and this does a better job faster.
Just trying to help. :) Richard :thumb:

Brake cleaning fluid is nasty and toxic... if you use it in aerosol form you can inhale it.

For this reason I restrict the use of aerosols in my shop and wear nitrile gloves as you get exposed to a lot of nasty stuff... grease, oil, solvents, and even aluminium can be bad as when you polish a lot of parts there is a lot of aluminium dust which is also toxic.

For normal folks this might not be a problem but I am exposed to this on a daily basis.

I re-lube my chain when it needs it... I can tell when the chain is not running as smoothly as it should, shifting degrades because the chain is not rolling as well, and if it squeaks I know I have really neglected a chain.

My home brew seems to be good for 300-400 km unless I have to deal with a lot of wet riding and is 1 part motor oil and 3 parts mineral spirits... I am getting 4000 km / 2500 miles out of multi speed chains and will get better life (6000km) out of single speed chains because they are never subjected to lateral forces like multi speed chains are.

I use the homebrew as a one step cleaner and lubricant in that I apply it and wipe my chain down until it is dry and shiny... it flushes out a lot of grime and when the solvent evaporates it leaves oil where it is needed, (inside the chain).

If I have been riding in the rain I will lube and wipe down my chain as the solvent dissipates any moisture and this is what really kills chains.

Any lubricant left on the outside of the chain is only good to attract dirt.

Brake cleaning fluid is nasty and toxic... if you use it in aerosol form you can inhale it.




I came up with this when doing a complete overhaul on my daughters bike, front crank
bearings, chain cleaning, and rear bearings. Had a can around from doing the brakes on my car. I was so surprised to see how easy it removed every thing with out even having to
wipe it down. Only use this method, (outside with a catch pan under your chain ), but it
is fast and easy, and does a perfect job. :) Richard

Quit doing that Richard and quit recommending it.:twitchy: :notamused:
There are much better, earth friendly methods. Try 65's motor oil/mineral spirits mixture or my favorite store bought product, White Lightning. Or you can remove your chain and put it in paraffin in a double boiler (be careful). All less expensive methods of cleaning your bike chain than brake cleaner in aerosol can that is good for 4 cleaning and with these methods you are lubing your chain at the same time. Plus you won't be polluting as much.

I use wax based lube because it's cleaner and lasts longer, but it doesn't reduce friction as much as oil based lubes like 65's mix.

[QUOTE=qmsdc15;11207165]Quit doing that Richard and quit recommending it.:twitchy: :notamused:
There are much better, earth friendly methods. Try 65's motor oil/mineral spirits mixture or my favorite store bought product, White Lightning. Or you can remove your chain and put it in paraffin in a double boiler (be careful). All less expensive methods of cleaning your bike chain than brake cleaner in aerosol can that is good for 4 cleaning and with these methods you are lubing your chain at the same time. Plus you won't be polluting as much.


I new that post might get a few bad reviews, but I am very earth friendly as a spend
a lot of time outdoors, hiking, camping, canoeing, and biking. Always bring along a extra
trash bag and pick up other peoples trash along the way, ( can not stand to see it in the woods ),
and your right about the environment thing. :) Richard

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4028/4480139666_ca6e4b90a8.jpg

Quit doing that Richard and quit recommending it.:twitchy: :notamused:
There are much better, earth friendly methods. Try 65's motor oil/mineral spirits mixture or my favorite store bought product, White Lightning. Or you can remove your chain and put it in paraffin in a double boiler (be careful). All less expensive methods of cleaning your bike chain than brake cleaner in aerosol can that is good for 4 cleaning and with these methods you are lubing your chain at the same time. Plus you won't be polluting as much.

I use wax based lube because it's cleaner and lasts longer, but it doesn't reduce friction as much as oil based lubes like 65's mix.

If you want effective and earth friendly then buy citrus degreaser in commercial size bottles (5L and up) off ebay. It's the same thing as Pedro's Chain Cleaner but 1/10 the price. It's re-usable (put it in a bottle and weight for the dirt to collect, then decant the degreaser) and bio-degraveable.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4028/4480139666_ca6e4b90a8.jpg


I don't get these systems. The chain gets superficially cleaned, but the derailer - usually the dirtiest part of the powertrain -and cassette are left untouched. Getting these clean is at least as important as cleaning the chain. And they'll reinfect the chain in minutes after you start riding.

Put a Powerlink in the chain so it is easy to remove. Take it off. Put in a tupperware with some degreaser; shake; rinse; wipe; repeat; dry. Clean exposed cassette and derailer, snap chain back on bike. It's a little more effort - not much more - but you get an entirely clean powertrain.

If you want effective and earth friendly then buy citrus degreaser in commercial size bottles (5L and up) off ebay. It's the same thing as Pedro's Chain Cleaner but 1/10 the price. It's re-usable (put it in a bottle and weight for the dirt to collect, then decant the degreaser) and bio-degraveable.

I use citrus degreaser for other tasks but I don't grease or degrease my chain.

Wax base lube attracts very little dirt. I don't get the nasty build up in cassette or derailleur since I switched from oil based lubes years ago. My cogs are shiny and I ride everyday, all weather, and I don't clean the cogs regularly.

Thanks Richard for taking that advice well.

I use citrus degreaser for other tasks but I don't grease or degrease my chain.

I don't think the high tech chain lube I use is grease in any traditional sense. The degreaser is just a cleaning agent.



Wax base lube attracts very little dirt. I don't get the nasty build up in cassette or derailleur since I switched from oil based lubes years ago. My cogs are shiny and I ride everyday, all weather, and I don't clean the cogs regularly.


Do you ride off road? What brands of wax are good?

Degreaser makes it easy to remove old lube and contaminants but what do you use to clean the degreaser off your chain? If you don't get it all off, won't it contaminate the new lube? Probably your procedure reduces friction in the chain to a greater degree than mine. I don't think wax is as slippery as oil, but I think it's good enough.

My procedure is much easier and needs to be done less frequently. I offer it as an alternative that works OK and I believe uses less toxic chemicals and produces less waste than most other methods. For lazy people like me, who like clean drivetrain parts but don't like cleaning them.

No chain removal. Similar to "hot scraping" method of cleaning ski bases, the new wax mixes with the old wax and dirt then it's wiped/scraped off. You need to apply and remove two or three times until the wax you are wiping or scraping off is clean at which point you know the wax in the chain or ski is clean.

65's mixture is an interesting oil based version of this "clean and lube" concept.

I've only tried three brands of wax lube, I liked Rock n' Roll and White Lightning brands. I've used paraffin many years ago, which probably is better than commercial wax lubes, but it involved removing chain and melting wax in a double boiler. A wax lube for those who prefer a labor intensive procedure. :D

I don't ride off road much but the principle advantage of wax is it doesn't attract dirt as much as oil. Junk does get on the chain and cogs, but not nearly as much. I tend to clean my cogs when I replace a drive side spoke. I should clean cogs more often, but I'm not seeing the nasty build up I got when I used oil.

I don't get these systems. The chain gets superficially cleaned, but the derailer - usually the dirtiest part of the powertrain -and cassette are left untouched. Getting these clean is at least as important as cleaning the chain. And they'll reinfect the chain in minutes after you start riding.

Put a Powerlink in the chain so it is easy to remove. Take it off. Put in a tupperware with some degreaser; shake; rinse; wipe; repeat; dry. Clean exposed cassette and derailer, snap chain back on bike. It's a little more effort - not much more - but you get an entirely clean powertrain.

That's what I do except the chain goes in a pint mason jar with about 1/4 cup of lawnmower gas. Lay the chain in the sun and let it totally dry before re-lubricating. I use the rock and roll wax based stuff and like it fine.

Degreaser makes it easy to remove old lube and contaminants but what do you use to clean the degreaser off your chain?


Water. Clean chains thendry wonderfully well.



If you don't get it all off, won't it contaminate the new lube? Probably your procedure reduces friction in the chain to a greater degree than mine. I don't think wax is as slippery as oil, but I think it's good enough.


Oil is probably unslippery compared to a hightech chain lube. They're synthetic carriers for teflon molecules.




I've only tried three brands of wax lube, I liked Rock n' Roll and White Lightning brands. I've used paraffin many years ago, which probably is better than commercial wax lubes, but it involved removing chain and melting wax in a double boiler. A wax lube for those who prefer a labor intensive procedure. :D

I'm guessing that you're somewhere dry? I'd like to use wax, but it has a reputation for not surviving wet weather. Also White Lightning is supposed to good only for 50 miles of riding before it needs topping up?? http://www.mtbr.com/cat/accessories/lube/white-lightning/lube/PRD_352372_131crx.aspx

Maryland gets a decent amount of rain. More in winter than summer.

I don't keep track of miles or time between applications, but I know I go a lot more than 50 miles. My guess is about 4 or 5 times that many miles. Less in winter, more in summer. I'm negligent with maintenance, there is a good chance I'm riding most of the time on a chain that needs topping off. I don't concern myself with it unless I hear squeaking or see rust.

You might try a bottle of WL or a block of paraffin and let us know if it's any good. It seems to work well enough for me, but my standards are low. :o

I wasn't really saying my method is best. I was just answering the question about when I clean my chain, then rambling on about how...

A friend told me she was out of chain lube so she used vegan "butter", not real butter of course! When I said oil I meant "wet" lubes vs. dry wax type. Of course you wouldn't use plain old oil. Although safflower is low in saturated fats and thus safe for the environment. :)

Maryland gets a decent amount of rain. More in winter than summer.

I don't keep track of miles or time between applications, but I know I go a lot more than 50 miles. My guess is about 4 or 5 times that many miles. Less in winter, more in summer. I'm negligent with maintenance, there is a good chance I'm riding most of the time on a chain that needs topping off. I don't concern myself with it unless I hear squeaking or see rust.

You might try a bottle of WL or a block of paraffin and let us know if it's any good. It seems to work well enough for me, but my standards are low. :o

I wasn't really saying my method is best. I was just answering the question about when I clean my chain, then rambling on about how...

I'm very interested - anything to reduce the chore of cleaning and oiling...

Just in case anyone is ever tempted - I was once - NEVER used WD40 as a chain lube. It's a water displacing spray, not a lubricant.

Give it a try. If your riding in mud a lot and hosing down your bike, it will need more frequent apps for sure. I'm sort of against riding off road in wet conditions anyway. That's bad for the environment, dontcha know?

When do I clean my chain?

Never - since I switched to belt drive! :D

When do I clean my chain?

Never - since I switched to belt drive! :D

Winner of the chicken dinner for best post in thread. 10X Winner!

Just in case anyone is ever tempted - I was once - NEVER used WD40 as a chain lube. It's a water displacing spray, not a lubricant.

So tempted to post photo of my cogset I took today. Rust stains still on the big cog from when I recently tried to free a stuck freehub by spraying WD40 in it. Maybe should be confessing this in the how stupid was I thread.

So tempted to post photo of my cogset I took today. Rust stains still on the big cog from when I recently tried to free a stuck freehub by spraying WD40 in it. Maybe should be confessing this in the how stupid was I thread.

You weren't that stupid! It's "common knowledge" that WD40 is a cure-all. The right tools for that job would have been liquid wrench or GT85. GT85 is what the UK bike shops use now; it's a PTFE spray that seems to do all the things that people think WD40 does - it cleans, displaces water, and it lubes. And because it's PTFE it's not only safe on plastics, it polishes them. (You need to be really careful about getting overspray on smooth floors - it can be deadly.) I still wouldn't use it as a chain lube - it doesn't stay on the chain as long as the specialist stuff.

Btw - are you sure those stains are *rust*? WD40 does displace water. Otoh, a mechanic told me it leaves very nasty residues,. Could these be what you are seeing? Or do you thing that the WD40 drove out the real lube, leaving the cog vulnerable to rust?

No, it was rusty inside. Burnt toast. No liquid fix. These cogs rescued.
http://i478.photobucket.com/albums/rr147/Rod_Smith/bike/DSC04443.jpg

No, it was rusty inside. Burnt toast. No liquid fix. These cogs rescued.


Re. the picture - yuck!

Buy some GT85 and throw that WD40 away!

http://cgi.ebay.com/CYCLING-MOUNTAIN-BIKE-CHAIN-AND-CABLE-LUBE-GT-85-/140353516252?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20adb8b2dc

Give it a try. If your riding in mud a lot and hosing down your bike, it will need more frequent apps for sure. I'm sort of against riding off road in wet conditions anyway. That's bad for the environment, dontcha know?

Same here.
I don't get why people need to drive through mud to get their kicks and it strains the countryside forsure if done too much.
I ride only in dry conditions and avoid rain or mud whenever I can.

You weren't that stupid! It's "common knowledge" that WD40 is a cure-all.

I have noticed this aswell: people seem to think that WD40 is a good lubricant, partly because it says that on the can.
WD40 should only be used on bikes to loosen rusty bolts, but I have no iron parts on my bike that can rust, so I never use it.
I use three sprays:
special PTFE lubricant for bearings...
special spray chain lubricant for -obviously- the chain...
and silicon spray for the suspensions and the cablehousings.

When do I clean my chain?

Never - since I switched to belt drive! :D

It must be nice living in the future! Do you have an IGH hub too?

I have noticed this aswell: people seem to think that WD40 is a good lubricant, partly because it says that on the can.

It does? Someone is asking for a class action lawsuit...



WD40 should only be used on bikes to loosen rusty bolts, but I have no iron parts on my bike that can rust, so I never use it.
As qms's experience shows, it's problematic even for that. GT85 is so much safer and more versatile.

Anyway, re. chain wax for wet climates I found this on a UK forum:



http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/putoline-chain-wax-report

I have been using Putoline chain wax (http://www.coast2coastoffroad.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1685) on the solos and tandem since christmas. This is a solid graphited wax that you heat on the stove


So far it appears to be by far the best lube I have used. It is lasting hundreds of miles even used in wet and muddy conditions ( although I have not ridden a huge amount in mud recently) It is a faff to apply - but to some extent that is compensated for by the fact you don't have to clean the chain - just dump it into the can of molten wax.

Measuring the chains they don't appear to be wearing any quicker than using conventional lube. The wax does not get stripped out by peaty / muddy stuff unlike liquid lubes, dirt does not get stuck to it as it is not sticky on the surface in the same way. each application lasts maybe 3 x as long as conventional lubes. It is under £20 a kilo.

Disadvantages - the lube itself is really manky - and does not wash off hands or clothes easily

I have previously used finishline green and purple extreme.
Needs to be used thru the winter to be sure of the advantages but so far I am convinced

Putoline is sold by off road motorcycles and quad bikes. It's only for open chains and not "o-ring types". I'm not sure what an o-ring chain is, so it maybe not be tech used on bicycles.

O-rings are rubber and possibly damaged by either the heat or something in the lube. You've probably seen o-rings on some headsets or inside of your pump. Generally used to create a seal. Bicycle chains are open chains.

Sounds like the old school paraffin in a double boiler updated with graphite additive. I imagine one could make his or her own graphite/wax mixture.

O-rings are rubber and possibly damaged by either the heat or something in the lube. You've probably seen o-rings on some headsets or inside of your pump. Generally used to create a seal. Bicycle chains are open chains.


Yes - I know what an o-ring normally is - but could rubber o-rings possibly be part of a motorcycle chain???



Sounds like the old school paraffin in a double boiler updated with graphite additive. I imagine one could make his or her own graphite/wax mixture.

Putoline is cheap. The smallest size seems like it might be a lifetime supply for a bicycle.

Yes, they have little o-rings sealing each roller. I have a friend you rides motorcycles and I think I learned that from him. Maybe that type of chain, being sealed, doesn't require additional lubrication.

Remember you need enough to immerse the chain in it. Only a small amount of wax remains on the chain, but a greater quantity is needed for the application. Perhaps the excess wax can be reused. I guess one would need to thoroughly clean the chain before waxing if intending to reuse the wax.

There is a similar thread in the Commuting section (http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?668040-Anyone-use-Pedro-s-Road-Rage-on-their-commuter) right now. Personally, I like the attitude of the person who just replaces the chain once a year rather than cleaning it! One of the posts has a link to a couple of DuPont Teflon lubes that are evidently hot in the motorcycle world right now. They might be worth considering. Neither of my bikes is quite old enough to worry about this yet, but getting close, real close.

Ken :D

No, it was rusty inside. Burnt toast. No liquid fix. These cogs rescued.
http://i478.photobucket.com/albums/rr147/Rod_Smith/bike/DSC04443.jpg

They look like they are pretty worn out...

In other breaking news...

WD40 is not a good chain lubricant.

It must be nice living in the future! Do you have an IGH hub too?
Yup - it's a 2010 Norco Ceres.

163130

Personally, I like the attitude of the person who just replaces the chain once a year rather than cleaning it!

Once a year is great... if you don't ride more than about 4000km a year.

I will probably ride that much in 4 months if I keep up my current riding pace.

There is a similar thread in the Commuting section (http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?668040-Anyone-use-Pedro-s-Road-Rage-on-their-commuter) right now. Personally, I like the attitude of the person who just replaces the chain once a year rather than cleaning it!


Modern powertrains are much more susceptible to dirt than older ones. 7 gear cassette set ups were very tolerant of abuse; 9s and 10s much less so. "Replace the chain once a year" could lead to some very big repair bills on the high end stuff.



One of the posts has a link to a couple of DuPont Teflon lubes that are evidently hot in the motorcycle world right now. They might be worth considering.


Decent chain lubes have been PTFE bases for years.



Neither of my bikes is quite old enough to worry about this yet, but getting close, real close.

???
Ken :D

Once a year is great... if you don't ride more than about 4000km a year.

I will probably ride that much in 4 months if I keep up my current riding pace.

4000km? On clean roads in dry weather with a x7 speed, maybe.

Yup - it's a 2010 Norco Ceres.

163130

Do you feel like posting a review of this bike? If you ever do, please PM me so I don't miss it.

Modern powertrains are much more susceptible to dirt than older ones. 7 gear cassette set ups were very tolerant of abuse; 9s and 10s much less so. "Replace the chain once a year" could lead to some very big repair bills on the high end stuff.

Humor impaired then, aren't we?

I really don't see the point of making a point by point rebuttal of a post that was only meant to point readers to another thread that had some information on a similar topic.

And, given the cleaning and lubrication intervals that many of you post, neither of my bikes has accumulated enough miles to qualify for chain maintenance yet. I typically ride in very benign conditions and I don't live on my bike, absolutely no offense intended to those who do. I don't know why you would find that concept hard to grasp.

Ken

Humor impaired then, aren't we?

How am I supposed to know it is humour when there are people who never clean their chains and don't even change them once a year?



I really don't see the point of making a point by point rebuttal of a post that was only meant to point readers to another thread that had some information on a similar topic.


Thin skinned, aren't we?



And, given the cleaning and lubrication intervals that many of you post, neither of my bikes has accumulated enough miles to qualify for chain maintenance yet. I typically ride in very benign conditions and I don't live on my bike, absolutely no offense intended to those who do. I don't know why you would find that concept hard to grasp.


So now you're saying that the humour wasn't humour? No chicken dinner for you!