Classic & Vintage - 1985 Peugeot PH11 -low mileage- (PICS)

I recently found and bought a 57cm Peugeot PH11.

The guy I bought it from was the original owner; his wife bought the bike for him, new, in Luxembourg in 1985. He never got used to the road bike style, and gave up riding it soon after. It sat in his garage for 22yrs until he put new tires on it and tried again 3 years ago, still to no avail. He figures the bike has less than 50 miles on it.

He finally put it up on ebay, where I found it.

Everything is original (besides the tires and lost-cause handle bar tape).
The bike weighs 24lbs

(more and higher-res photos can be found here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/23869082@N03/sets/72157624488168329/)


http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4083/4842016703_977f18659b.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4152/4842635968_2965106eb1.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4104/4842638680_937716c219.jpg

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http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4084/4842157105_5fd687c4a9.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4147/4842772894_2a7d06b052.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4092/4842634408_06eb89caf2.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4146/4842636232_eac90a09ce.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4108/4842869184_002d721c9d.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4086/4842269229_3d3f5c0bdf_b.jpg


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I ended up paying $300 for the bike, which I figure is considered overpriced, especially here at "look at this PX10 I found in the dumpster" Bike Forums, but I really liked this model, it is rare on this side of the pond, it's the right size (I'm a lanky 5'9), was within driving distance, and I sorta got into a bidding war after I had become... intellectually invested in the bike. Tisk tisk, I know.

Anyway, the bike cleaned up nice and I am in the process of testing and tuning it.

A few questions:

Will I be able to get replacement brake pad inserts, or should I just buy some high quality modern brake shoes?

What are my brake hood options? Are there replacement gum/rubber hoods for these CLB brake levers?

Can I just lube the chain/gears and start riding, or do I need to do some serious internal cleaning/greasing before I start putting long miles on the bearings/derailleurs?

The brake and shifter cables seem to be really smooth and free, should I still think about replacing them?

How long do I have before I start running into the dreaded Helicomatic issues?


If anyone is curious about anything else, I can give more details and photos, just ask. I look forward to becoming a non-lurking member of this thriving community you have here!



-kurt

Probably not, yes.
Yes. Can cut diacompe/cane creek to fit if needed.
Definitely not. Repack everything.
If they work fine, no. Somethings up with the rear cable.
Forever.

Will I need new ball bearings when I repack?

The rear cable is slack, and a brake shoe insert is missing.



Probably not, yes.
Yes. Can cut diacompe/cane creek to fit if needed.
Definitely not. Repack everything.
If they work fine, no. Somethings up with the rear cable.
Forever.

Will I need new ball bearings when I repack?

The rear cable is slack, and a brake shoe insert is missing.


welcome to C&V shuttervox....
It's a good policy to replace the ball bearings when you repack - and you need to repack those hubs IMMEDIATELY. Don't ride it until you do.
- As long as you have them adjusted and lubed properly you will not have to worry about the "dreaded helicomatic issues" thereafter. For some reason the Helicomatic has a reputation that is orders of magnitude worse than what it deserves - and few people point out what a wonderfully smooth running hub it is when maintained properly. IMO, The only real downside is the outrageous price and availability of of replacement parts, if you need them.

Provided there is nothing wrong with a return spring (unlikely on a low mileage bike) the likely cause for a slack cable is a mis-adjustment.

Cleaning out the hubs and regreasing the bearings really shouldn't take that long, and it usually doesn't require too many specialized tools (except for maybe a crank puller). Definitely do it before you endeavor to put serious miles on the bike.

Also, it's one of the cheapest ways to improve your ride. All new bearings and races for a bike such as that should cost you all of $5, plus a couple bucks for some waterproof grease.

New bearings are good, but you can use the old one's (especially if your bike has barely been ridden) as long as you clean them out thoroughly before putting in new grease. Use a degreaser like Simple Green or Pedros Citrus Degreaser (both readily available in US, not sure about similar products 'across the pond') and a toothbrush, maybe a couple q-tips to help get the grease out. If the bearings aren't pitted and the races aren't crap, you should be just fine using the stock bearings.

That said, new bearings are $5. I'd just poney up the cash. Take the old bearings into a bike shop and ask for new one's. They'll set you up in no time.

Should I do anything with the freewheel, or do I just need to repack the hubs?
What about the bottom bracket?
Will I need any special tools?

-kurt

Great looking bike you have there... I'm really jealous!

I've recently started renovating my old 89 Peugeot... few posts down.
I just wish it was in as good condition as what you have.

Should I do anything with the freewheel, or do I just need to repack the hubs?
What about the bottom bracket?
Will I need any special tools?

-kurt

The bottom bracket should get the same overhaul as your wheel hubs. Replace the bearings. This requires some bottom bracket tools (to remove the lock ring and usually a pin spanner to remove the adjustable cup) as well as a crank remover. These tools are very worthwhile investments, and learning to do it yourself invaluable. The Park Tool website (http://www.parktool.com/repair/bikemap.asp) provides you with some excellent info to get you started, with pictures and detail on the tools you need.

The Freewheel probably does not need anything but I always give them a thorough cleaning with a little WD40 and a freewheel "tooth brush" available at your LBS. The serated end is the most effective. Give it a LIGHT lube afterward, since WD40 is a Degreaser NOT a lubricant.

The bottom bracket should get the same overhaul as your wheel hubs. Replace the bearings. This requires some bottom bracket tools (to remove the lock ring and usually a pin spanner to remove the adjustable cup) as well as a crank remover. These tools are very worthwhile investments, and learning to do it yourself invaluable. The Park Tool website (http://www.parktool.com/repair/bikemap.asp) provides you with some excellent info to get you started, with pictures and detail on the tools you need.

The Freewheel probably does not need anything but I always give them a thorough cleaning with a little WD40 and a freewheel "tooth brush" available at your LBS. The serated end is the most effective. Give it a LIGHT lube afterward, since WD40 is a Degreaser NOT a lubricant.

And a crank puller. That's also available through Park Tool.

I saw that bike... It seems to be in rather nice condition actually.

The secret is lots of MAAS, a sunset, and a DSLR camera with a nice portrait lens :p


Great looking bike you have there... I'm really jealous!

I've recently started renovating my old 89 Peugeot... few posts down.
I just wish it was in as good condition as what you have.