Bicycle Mechanics - clicking sound

I have a Trek 7000 that's about a year old with approximately 3500 miles on it. All original except for the freewheel and chain.

This just started on the way home today. On the downstroke on the right pedal, I get a clicking. I don't hear it so much as feel it in my foot.

Where should I start? I know there was a web site that kind of had a troubleshooter, but I can't seem to remember what it was or find it.

Can you grease the pedal bearings?

Can you grease the pedal bearings?

All the instructions I'm finding seem to relate to clipless pedals.. are they the same for platform pedals?

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/creaks.html Helps eliminate the guessing games. I've never seen bearings click as you describe. Most likely is a pedal or crank that needs to be torqued properly. Tighten both on both sides and you will probably fix the problem. If not check Sheldon's suggestions.

The End caps come off and then I push in grease until it comes out the otherside.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh187/10wheels/toeclips003.jpg

I recently traced a click down to the freehub. Perhaps you could borrow pedals from a friend, substitute them in? I have an inventory of old but still useful parts I swap in to diagnose problems. It would be cheaper to buy the cheapest pedals from Wal*Mart than taking it to a bike shop for a diagnosis. (and, if the Wal*Mart pedals solve the problem, buy some real pedals)

Well, I took apart my pedals and greased the bearings with no luck. My grease must be too thick because now they're really stiff. I checked the tightness of the crank bolt, and it didn't seem loose, but I snugged it up a bit without any success. I'm calling it a night. Tomorrow I'll borrow my wife's pedals (if they're the same size) and see if that fixes it. I should have done that before taking apart my old ones.. oh well. That's what I get for working after dark.. my brain stops functioning.

I may not get this resolved before I have to leave for scout camp on Sunday.. if nothing is obviously loose, can I damage something (that doesn't already have a problem) by riding it?

if their popping most likely you got a rock inside the pedal or your bearings are bad

if their popping most likely you got a rock inside the pedal or your bearings are bad

Well, i had the pedals completely apart and didn't see anything. I'm thinking I need to take them completely apart, clean them up, and use a lighter grease this time. I know it's the pedals after I do the pedal swap today.

Bottom bracket loosening up?

Bottom bracket loosening up?

That's what I'm leaning towards at this point, but I tried the Sheldon "squeeze" method and didn't really find anything. After the pedals, I think that's my next step is to figure out what kind of bottom bracket wrench I need an get one so I can try to tighten it.

OK, how can I tell what kind of bottom bracket I have? It's not on Trek's site or bikepedia. I'm thinking it's most likely a Shimano of some sort.. and I would need the BBT-22. Any definitive way to tell? I guess I could take it into my LBS and ask them.. but I really don't like dealing with them anymore. I'm not the type of rider they seem to cater to.

Switching out the pedals didn't work.. still need to figure out how to loosen my old ones up a bit.. they were really comfortable (probably cheap too).

I Gotta say ive had alot of trouble aswell with pedals popping when im pedalling it does agrivate you much

I don't have a lot of exposure to the more recent bottom brackets, but I would generally never describe a bottom bracket noise as a "click." It's usually a lower frequency, more like a "clunk." You've eliminated pedals, so it's crank on spindle or perhaps chainwheel rivets. You might try removing the crank arms, making sure the mating surfaces are clean and smooth (try steel wool) and then reassembling to proper torque.

Well, I don't hear a click so much as a feel a click.. so, how do I figure out what tools I need to check these things? I figure I can buy the tools or pay the same price to have the LBS fix it (which based on past experience they may not even feel the problem). My LBS isn't much of a help since they only have really basic tools and everything would be a special order. If I'm doing that, I might as well price compare.

Any ideas on the parts? I know it's only been 12 hours, but I was hoping to get them ordered before I went out of town today so hopefully I would have them when I return. I was also thinking that if the bottom bracket wasn't too expensive I'd order that and just replace it while I was at it. It looks like a Shimano bottom bracket based on everything I've seen, but looking at them they come in so many different sizes, and I can't find the specs on that for my bike.

trust me on this one go buy new pedals and dont waste your time on the crank its not the source ive had the pedal issue happen to me on every new bike or used bike i bought everytime it was the pedals the bearings seem to wear out on them alot you might consider buying Steel black ones maybe gt pedals because those last long ive had them on my road bike for dam near 1 year and not one popping noise or feel in them

Anyways Hope this helps

trust me on this one go buy new pedals and dont waste your time on the crank its not the source ive had the pedal issue happen to me on every new bike or used bike i bought everytime it was the pedals the bearings seem to wear out on them alot you might consider buying Steel black ones maybe gt pedals because those last long ive had them on my road bike for dam near 1 year and not one popping noise or feel in them

I already swapped out the pedals and the problem persisted.

I'm having the same problem with my bike. I feel a pop on the powerstroke of the pedal. The crankset doesn't wobble and doesn't seem to be loose. Fuji Crosstown 4.0 with 210 miles though. I hate going to the bike store and saying something is 'clunking'. So a bump to your thread.

then if your pedals arent the issue then Install a new Crank Buy a new crank or install new bearings

mostlikely a bearing shot out of the bearing housing due to two much pressure applyd to the bearings if thats not the problem check your bottum bracket cups to see if theres a ding in one of the cups
I already swapped out the pedals and the problem persisted.

You probably overtightened your existing pedals when putting them back together. The grease won't make them that stiff.

As for your noise, try tightening the crank arms, the chainring bolts, and your seatpost. Also try different shoes! I'm guessing you always ride in the same ones.

then if your pedals arent the issue then Install a new Crank Buy a new crank or install new bearings

Looking at the bike, I'm thinking I have a sealed Shimano cartridge units, but I'm not sure. Is there a good reference site to verify what this looks like while installed in the bike? I haven't seemed to find a good picture. Or are there specs somewhere for my bike? Bikepedia or Trek's web site don't specify the bottom bracket type / brand.

the BB-downtube-squeeze method isn't always 100%. get the tools and DIY; because then you can continue to DIY and save your pennies.

the BB-downtube-squeeze method isn't always 100%. get the tools and DIY; because then you can continue to DIY and save your pennies.

Yes, I agree with getting the tools and DIY, I just can't figure out what tools to get. I think I'm just going to go to my LBS and have them order the tools I need.

For a few miles I thought my issue had disappeared this morning. However, as I turned into work, it reappeared, but at the top of the stroke on my right foot this time.

On a possibly related note (or completely unrelated), I noticed my handlebars creak. The stem actually seems to have some play inside the headset (I think I have the right terminology, but not 100%). I've tightened the bolt for the wedge on the handlebars, but that didn't help. Anything else to tighten on those?

you know, in the search for my own solution to the "sound that cannot be found," i did find this website that, in a nutshell, suggests it often isn't where you are convinced it is. in my case, after tightening all of the usual suspects to torque specs (pedals, cranks, and BB), the noise persists. now i'm working software-style, trying to determine the last new thing on the bike, and seeing if it's the culprit; but also checking things that seemed unlikely---e.g., chainring bolts, swapping pedals, saddle rails, seatpost lube, front dropout rub, and so on. in short, all of these things are normal preventative procedures and won't hurt the bike, even if they fail to directly solve the noise issue.

http://www.jimlangley.net/wrench/keepitquiet.html#creak

Good luck with your setup, and keep us informed! And yes: let the LBS tell you which tools you'll need (sorry i don't know which BB/crank the Trek 7k uses, and the owners manual doesn't say). Get the bike-specific ones from them, but get the generic tools (if you need them) from a hardware store (or Sears; Craftsman [the good Craftsman tools and not the cheap ones sold close by] has a good receipt-free lifetime exchange policy, for those of use for whom the Mac or Snap-On truck do not visit). All of my hex and socket pieces came this way, and then i just buy the bike-specific attachments (e.g., BB tool and crank puller in my case; everything else on my drivetrain uses standard tools).

WIthout reading all the other posts, my money is on loose chainring bolts.

I have had this before but each situation is different.

I put a new Shimano bb....wasn't it

One cannot see whether the pedal bearings are good or not. In my case it was the pedals

I recommend buying pedals with sealed berarings

He already eliminated pedals by swapping in a different pair, but that would've been my first guess too. It's hard to say what it is over the internet. Maybe he needs to do a live video feed of a ride so we can diagnose the issue. :) or maybe just take it to a shop if he can't figure it out himself with our guesses as a guide.

WIthout reading all the other posts, my money is on loose chainring bolts.

your money was then wisely invested: http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?668786-irritating-creak-from-BB-crank-region...
as i mention in the post, it was blinking obvious; so obvious that no one suggested it :lol:

Well, my LBS confirmed what I thought I saw.. my chainring is held together with rivets, so nothing to tighten.

He couldn't duplicate the clicking feel (I still feel it). He insisted that the bottom bracket was not the problem, because it didn't feel loose. He wanted me to try a 3rd set of pedals since I still have the Wal-Mart cheapies on, and my wife's pedals are slightly used. He didn't want to sell me the tools since he said it was "more advanced" type of things and only the professionals should try it.

He did tighten my headset. He showed me how to do it too (never bothered to research). It had been loose since I bought it , so I assumed that was just the way the bike was. I thought it was getting looser, but I wasn't sure.

At least he didn't charge me. Not sure where I'm going from here... I guess I hope someone will chime in and be able to tell me the crank puller and BB tool I need since I can't figure it out. I might to go another shop and see if they'll help me, even though they deal in Schwinn, not Trek. I did order some good pedals since even though I got my old pedals apart and lubed, he told me they were supposed to be throw-away so I was wasting my time on them.

Had a similar clicking sound on our tandem - the front deraileur cage had gotten bent from a dropped chain and was touching the right crank every time it came around, but of course only in the big ring.

I just went throught the whole drill chasing a similar symptom. The solution was a touch of grease on the front drop out/ quick release contact point. Take off you front wheel, put a dab of grease on both sides of each drop out.
It's easy, cheap and worth a try.

I guess I hope someone will chime in and be able to tell me the crank puller and BB tool I need since I can't figure it out. I might to go another shop and see if they'll help me, even though they deal in Schwinn, not Trek.

from what i can find, the 2009 Trek 7000 uses a Shimano M151 crankset, which is a standard square taper crank. For instructions, check out the Park tool website: http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=103 and http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=94

If this is indeed the case, tools are very simple; you'll need these Park tools or their equivalent (e.g., Pedros, Shimano):

1. crank puller (Park CCP-22 or CWP-7) for a square taper crank (i use this Pedros puller: http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=8499 )
2. Shimano square taper BB tool (probably a BBT-22, but have a friendlier LBS verify this for you). Remember to avoid over-tightening the plastic bottom bracket ring on non-drive side! if you do break it, i recommend buying the steel replacement; it's much sturdier.

3. i'd get a cheap beam-type torque wrench; it isn't absolutely necessary (a BB is more or less tightened to oblivion---except that cheap plastic shimano cup side), but it does make for a job done right.

Lastly, a good bike shop will fix your bike properly no matter what brand of bike they happen to sell! If the LBS near you sells Schwinn, but the mechanics are good (and polite... i like polite), then by all means patronize them! A good mechanic sure as hell won't tell you that tightening a BB is too much for you to handle; it's none of his or her business if you want to do it or not. A good mech should tell you which tools you'll need, and if she or he is a good soul, offer a few words of advice here and there (like that doozy of a plastic BB ring).

the mechanics are good (and polite... i like polite), then by all means patronize them! A good mechanic sure as hell won't tell you that tightening a BB is too much for you to handle; it's none of his or her business if you want to do it or not. A good mech should tell you which tools you'll need, and if she or he is a good soul, offer a few words of advice here and there (like that doozy of a plastic BB ring).

Yea.. the local Trek dealer doesn't seem to know what to do with a Fred instead of a competitive cyclist. From what I can tell, most of their clientele doesn't want to know how to fix a bike, and money doesn't seem to be an object when it comes to bikes. Hopefully the Schwinn dealer will help me out. I recently earned some extra money, so maybe I'll give them a test drive by going in for a new bike.. a road bike this time.

Do any of these pictures help determine what type of bottom bracket I have? I'm not sure what the numbers on the bottom mean, but thought they may be helpful.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s233/chandltp/th_2Chandl2010_0806AF.jpg (http://s153.photobucket.com/albums/s233/chandltp/?action=view&current=2Chandl2010_0806AF.jpg)

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s233/chandltp/th_2Chandl2010_0806AD.jpg (http://s153.photobucket.com/albums/s233/chandltp/?action=view&current=2Chandl2010_0806AD.jpg)

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s233/chandltp/th_2Chandl2010_0806AA.jpg (http://s153.photobucket.com/albums/s233/chandltp/?action=view&current=2Chandl2010_0806AA.jpg)

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s233/chandltp/th_2Chandl2010_0806AG.jpg (http://s153.photobucket.com/albums/s233/chandltp/?action=view&current=2Chandl2010_0806AG.jpg)

the photos confirm that it is a square taper BB, with a single 8mm hex crank bolt. the tools i mentioned above will work: one BB cup tool and a generic socket or wrench big enough to turn it, one crank puller, and one generic hex wrench---this will enable you to pull the cranks and tighten the BB. of course, if you do this and the noise persists, then that means it wasn't the BB! ... and then we go from there. best resolution: it fixes the "click" and you learn more about bike wrenching. worst resolution: you learn more about bike wrenching. kind of a win-win!

incidentally, those numbers on the bottom are your bike's serial number. write it down and keep it safe, in case the bike is ever stolen (every little bit helps).

Well, I got the crank puller and BB tool from the other LBS this morning. I pulled both cranks, tightened both sides of the BB a bit (they were pretty tight). I took it for a ride and thought I had it fixed, but now I'm pretty sure I've moved the "click" feeling to the top of the stroke. Everything seemed nice and tight and smooth while I had the cranks off.. so I'm not sure where to go from here. Ignore it unless it gets worse? Replace the BB? Move on to another part of the bike?

wonder if a chain-ring rivet has gone bad? if you had one around (or could borrow one for 5-minutes) you could throw on another square-taper crank and ride around for a moment (easy enough to do, now that you've got the tools). also, all of the odd stories posted or linked to here about fixing the "click" with grease on the pedals, seatpost, front fork, etc.---take them seriously since they're 1) easy enough to try out; and 2) the "click" sound is notorious for migrating throughout the frame (i.e., it seems like it comes from one place, but might in fact be from somewhere else and simply transferred to feet at the pedal stroke because of the situation's dynamics).

Well, I would have to see what my Tandem has on it, because it looks like they share similar components. It's a Kent. I also just got a Windsor Tourist, so if it has a square crank that may work too. I probably won't get to try that until I get back from my back to back vacation / work travel in a few weeks though.

Well, I would have to see what my Tandem has on it, because it looks like they share similar components. It's a Kent. I also just got a Windsor Tourist, so if it has a square crank that may work too. I probably won't get to try that until I get back from my back to back vacation / work travel in a few weeks though.

ah, well, the only "click" i hope you hear is the sound of a beer cap coming off a fresh brew. cheers!

Well, oddly enough after I put my 3rd set of pedals on it stopped. My wife thinks it was actually me clicking and not the bike.

My wife thinks it was actually me clicking and not the bike.

I had a clicking in my knee I mistakenly attributed to my bicycle.