Bicycle Mechanics - Not riding during Loctite cure time, important?

Recently reinstalled my BB30 bearings with Loctite (nearly certain mechanic used a green 6## variant) in an attempt to solve a clicking/creaking issue.

Literature says 10min set/24hrs cure. I know mechanic took bike for a spin right after installing the bearings to check for clicking. Now that the bike is in my hands, is it important I don't ride it for 24hrs from the time of installation?

Mechanic didn't make it seem like a big deal, but I'm anal like that.

Locktite begins to set as soon as it's in an anerobic (oxygen-free) environment but takes 24 hours to reach full strength. I'd give it a couple of hours at least to gain most of it's final strength.

Recently reinstalled my BB30 bearings with Loctite (nearly certain mechanic used a green 6## variant) in an attempt to solve a clicking/creaking issue.

Literature says 10min set/24hrs cure. I know mechanic took bike for a spin right after installing the bearings to check for clicking. Now that the bike is in my hands, is it important I don't ride it for 24hrs from the time of installation?

Mechanic didn't make it seem like a big deal, but I'm anal like that.

BB30 bearings don't require press fit loctite to install and use properly. If you have a problem with the bearings creaking inside the frame you have a frame warranty issue. Assuming you narrow it down to that. If for whatever reason your frame needs loctite to solve the issue - I would wait the full cure time. Or you void the repair pretty much.

I'd love to help you but:

THERE"S ADVERTISMENTS OVER WHAT YOU TYPED AND I CAN"T READ IT!!!!!!!!!

BB30 bearings don't require press fit loctite to install and use properly. If you have a problem with the bearings creaking inside the frame you have a frame warranty issue. Assuming you narrow it down to that. If for whatever reason your frame needs loctite to solve the issue - I would wait the full cure time. Or you void the repair pretty much.

I hear what you're saying about it possibly being a frame tolerance issue, but couldn't it also be a bearing tolerance issue?

Head mechanic at the higher-tier local Cannondale shop is the guy doing the loctite. I guess I'll bring up the warranty issue at some point, but it'd be shame to lose my 2010 CAAD9.

I'd love to help you but:

THERE"S ADVERTISMENTS OVER WHAT YOU TYPED AND I CAN"T READ IT!!!!!!!!!

Quoting for Booger1

Recently reinstalled my BB30 bearings with Loctite (nearly certain mechanic used a green 6## variant) in an attempt to solve a clicking/creaking issue.

Literature says 10min set/24hrs cure. I know mechanic took bike for a spin right after installing the bearings to check for clicking. Now that the bike is in my hands, is it important I don't ride it for 24hrs from the time of installation?

Mechanic didn't make it seem like a big deal, but I'm anal like that.

Also, just came back from my first post-Loctite ride. I did wait 24hrs before riding.

The creaking/clicking continues. It seems to be worse while seated now, actually.

I believe it's only caused by my left arm. When I stand, it only creaks on the left down stroke, and while seated doing one legged drills, the right side is silent no matter how hard I mash while the left will actually creak on the up and down stroke without much torque.

I believe it's only caused by my left arm.

If you have a saw and a bottle of whisky, I can fix that.

If you have a saw and a bottle of whisky, I can fix that.

Fixed:

I believe it's only caused by the left crank arm.

Regular Loctite works by forming crystals when it dries,like having salt added to the threads.It is for threaded things.Bearing mount is for smooth things,like a spun rod bearing in an engine,YES, it will hold a spun bearing believe it or not.

I'm not sure what a bb30 BB looks like in person but it looks in the pictures like there are no threaded cups.I'm guessing that this is a repair type bearing for stripped threads.

Get rid of the regular Locktite and get what is called Bearing Mount by Locktite.If that's what is making noise by moving around,bearing mount will cure the movement.It come in stick form and in liquid form,depending on how much gap needs to be filled.The liquid will fill a .030 gap,I'm sure that's plenty.

Be warned that it will take some heat to remove the bearing next time.

I was recently chasing a creak on my Cannondale (with BB30) and the bearings were the first thing I swapped. Turned out to be a hairline crack on the rear dropout. Have it looked at, they will warranty the frame.

In case anyone comes here looking for creak-solving advice:

We solved the creak, but didn't exactly "find" it since a number of things happened at once.

1) Pulled off the crankset and applied loctite to the scalloped BB30 spline and to the extracting bolt.
2) Pulled off both chainrings and greased inside and outside of bolts so that all contact points and threads were lubed up. They had been checked for tightness before, but hand't been greased.
3) Pulled off rear derailleur hanger and applied assembly paste to the contact area, and loctited the bolts.

One of those three solved the crankset-based creaking.

We identified a second creak after, and that was only while in the 21 and 23 of my 11-25 cassette. We traced that to the cassette itself, and theory is that the pins of the 21-23-25 carrier got loose and started making a racket. Replaced the cassette.

Bike is now silent. For now.