Bicycle Mechanics - Freewheel/Cassette removal help needed
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I've got a GT Palomar Mt. bike in my stable and I'm trying to remove the freewheel/cassette. At this point I'm not sure what I have on it! I've watched all the vids on youtube, but this one just isn't adding up. I've got the Park 12 spline hub tool along with the whip. The best I can tell when removing a freewheel you don't need the whip, but do with a cassette. I've put PLENTY of torque on the hub tool to where it should have budged. The only thing I'm not sure of is the black locking ring on the very outer end that has 8 or 10 notches in it. Does this have to be removed? I tried taping it with a hammer and punch and it didn't budge. Any help would be appreciated. :thumb:
08-03-10, 06:21 PM
It looks like you have a Campy BB/Cassette locking tool, which will not work for what you are trying to to.
Get the right tool (Park FR-1) and start over.
Yep, you're right. I'm using a Park BBT-5 tool. It sure fits the slot good. :) Do I need anything else besides the FR-1 to finish the job?
If the part engages, and doesn't slip, then your problem isn't the remover but your willingness or ability to apply enough torque.
You have a freewheel not a cassette system, and all of your riding torque has the freewheel on dammed tight. If you've climbed a steep hill (ever) in low gear you have to exceed that much torque to sipn it off.
Start with a good fitting remover, otherwise it'll slip. Use an axle nut or the QR to hold the remover into the freewheel. Then use a wrench long enough to reach past the rim, and really torque it with all you've got.
Better yet, put the wheel & remover into a vise holding the remover. Dress like Ralph Cramden, settle behind the wheel, and pretend you're taking your bus through a hard left turn without benefit of power steering. Don't be surprised if you hear spokes ping, and some go slack, we're talking serious torque here.
WARNING, once the freewheel breaks loose, stop and back off the nut or QR to allow the freewheel room to move out otherwise you'll stretch the QR skewer or damage the bearings.
I guess I was just too bashful then. I did have a axle nut over the remover with about 1/32" play. It's brand new so the splines aren't rounded. I was using a 1/2" drive breaker bar with a 2' cheater bar attached to it. I weigh 175 and was giving it about all I had. I was turning CCW. I can get a bigger pipe if needed! LOL I just don't want to ruin the wheel......
08-03-10, 07:57 PM
Do what FBinNY told you, you have a freewheel, not a cassette, you don't use a chain whip to remove it. Put the correct socket tool in the freewheel and put the socket in a vise then turn the wheel as if you are making a left turn on a bus with a large wheel and without power steering and then turn, turn real real hard. It will come loose.
I'll give it a go in the morning. Thanks......
08-03-10, 08:16 PM
Make sure the tool stays engaged in the core of the freewheel with the QR skewer.
then put the removal tool in a really big adjustable wrench and give it a go...
Shimano Spline remover for their freewheels is much longer, engages the splines in the freewheel body over a larger surface area, than what you show , above.
once you feel it loosening, breaking loose, then back off the QR skewer tension ..
You should be able to unscrew the freewheel, more, after that, by hand..
08-03-10, 08:21 PM
This is why when we built the bench in the back of the shop it was bolted to wall and held our bench vise. We would clamp the freewheel tool in the vise then set the wheel onto the tool and use the torque on the wheel to loosen the worst offenders.
08-03-10, 09:17 PM
^^^^^ "Ralph Cramden" is exactly the right model for this exercise. Helps to say "One o'these days, Alice!" as you lean into it. I have one friend, skinny guy, Idunno what he does, but whenever he needs anything done on the drive side, his freewheels are ALWAYS a monster to crack loose.
I was using a 1/2" drive breaker bar with a 2' cheater bar attached to it. I weigh 175 and was giving it about all I had.
It doesn't matter how long a wrench you use. Once it extends beyond the rim the wheel diameter becomes the limiting factor, since you're holding it back manually. That's why I always suggest the vise/steering wheel approach. This makes one part rigid, and allows you to put both hands and all your strength against it.
DING, DING, DING, we have a winner! :thumb: I gotta tell ya, with all my experience working on farm equipment, I really doubted that the vise trick could put that much more leverage on the sprocket than a 1/2" drive breaker bar with 2' of pipe. Boy was I wrong! I put it in the vise like you recommended, bared down on it and nothing happened. I didn't hear any spokes twang or break so I figured I still wasn't turning hard enough. This time I really let it go. Figured what do I have to loose at this point, and it broke loose. :p Now I can get in there and repack those bearings......
Thanks again guys,
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