Hybrid Bicycles - Road bike to hybrid conversion

So I've got an older Univega Viva Sport. It's a road bike with 700c wheels, drop bars, and downtube shifters. I've been toying with the idea of converting it to a hybrid so I can have something suited to commuting in hilly areas like where I live, and perhaps the occasional venture off of the pavement.

I was thinking of the following modifications.

Slightly knobby tires (maybe cx-style clinchers)
flat bars or risers (maybe bullhorns, any thoughts?)
switch to a triple crank.

I need to replace the derailleurs, but have access to a pretty prolific parts bin through a local co-op so I'm not sure whether I should be looking at road bike derailleurs or mtb ones.

Is this even a good idea? any thoughts/suggestions/advice/experience to share?

Depending on your stem, you could switch to Albatross bars, I find them super comfy on commuters and off road. You have downtubes so all you would really need are new brake levers, they can be had quite cheap, and grips.

What kind of tire clearance do you have on your current bike? Can you go to 32s or larger?

Triple cranks work great for hilly areas, but you could just go down in size on your current small chainring instead of forking over money for a new crankset.


I am in the process of changing my Jamis Aurora over into a commuter/light touring. What I have chosen to do is go with mustache bars, dia compe non-aero brake levers, silver shifter downtube shifters (might eventually switch these to bar ends), keeping the stock triple crank gearing but changing the rear cassette to a 11x28 that I had lying around with an XT long cage derailleur. I may adjust the triple chainrings to go with a different gearing.

Thanks for asking. Far too many hybrid to drop bar bike threads here and too little drop bar to hybrid threads. I think this is because people define hybrid as what is marketed as hybrid instead of using the word hybrid as defined long before bicycle salesmen were using the term.. Thus a Trek hybrid that is converted into a touring bike is still a hybrid, while the Bridgestone RB-T that I converted to flat bars long before the word hybrid was applied to bikes might not qualify as such.

The fact is, in real world, at least the part of the world I ride in, the type of con version you are talking about is much more common.

Bullhorns would work with you existing brake levers if mounted on the horns, which is a plus, but I don't know that it will improve the hilly commute or occasional off road ventures much.

I think the albatross/mustache type puts hands further back and thus allows a more upright position. I don't think that is desirable for hilly commuting or off-road riding. I'd probably prefer flat bars or risers. Up to you.

A wide range freewheel might address your gearing concerns easier than a crankset replacement. Possibly existing derailluers would work it you went this route but you might need a longer cage cage rear.

Thanks for the advice. I actually made a discovery at the co op tonight though. I found a bare frame cannondale s400. It's a full-on MTB, but the fat aluminum tubes are so nice I might just go a little more street with it. i.e. not-super-knobby tires, bigger big ring, and a rigid fork. I'm super excited about the build and it's a good trade for a cro-mo univega frame, no?

Now I just need to find a 1" mtb fork set up for v cantilevers...

...and everything else.

We convert a lot of older road bikes into upright riding bicycles with flat or riser bars... people often call them "townies".

Swap the drops for your preferred bar and shifter set up and you will be good to go.

Sounds like you traded a working bike for a frame. I like Cannondales. Enjoy building it up. I hope you have something to ride in the meantime.

One other thought is that a road bike converted into one with wider tires is the original cyclocross bike. You could also try the cyclocross forum for advice if you are still interested in trying it.

Thanks for the advice. I actually made a discovery at the co op tonight though. I found a bare frame cannondale s400. It's a full-on MTB, but the fat aluminum tubes are so nice I might just go a little more street with it. i.e. not-super-knobby tires, bigger big ring, and a rigid fork. I'm super excited about the build and it's a good trade for a cro-mo univega frame, no?
....

an MTB frame probably will leave you with 26" wheels rather than 700c which work better on the road. I'd much rather be riding on 38-622 tires than 38-559 (26x1.5")

I've got an old Fuji Monterey 10 speed on which I commute. It's got 27" wheels, which I'm not super fond of, but have never felt the burning need to change.

As for the wheels, I've got an old triumph which rides on 26 x 1 3/8" wheels, which are pretty nice on pavement/sidewalks/cobblestones, so they should be fine for the campus commute that would comprise the majority of my regular riding, and should be even better if i decide to go after a trail or something. The one thing I'm concerned about it the tires.

is there a good tire for on and off pavement use?

As for the wheels, I've got an old triumph which rides on 26 x 1 3/8" wheels, which are pretty nice on pavement/sidewalks/cobblestones, so they should be fine for the campus commute that would comprise the majority of my regular riding, and should be even better if i decide to go after a trail or something. The one thing I'm concerned about it the tires.

is there a good tire for on and off pavement use?


is that the vintage british 3-speed 26x1-3/8 ? That is a totally different rim size than the standard 26x whatever mountain/cruiser/etc wheel size. hard to find tires for those. Its an ISO 590mm while 26" mountain/cruiser/etc is 559mm (and 700c is 622mm). You might look on Sheldon's site (http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/tires/590.html) for 590mm tires.

as far as off road goes, any tire will work on hard pack, obviously wider is better when the surface gets softer. I regularly ride 700c x 38 or 26 x 1.9 slicks on hard pack trails. you only need knobbies for traction on steep loose surfaces, or riding aggressively. I rode through all kinda nasty thick mud on the level with 26x1.9 slicks at a music festival this last Memorial Day Weekend, going easy and slow so as not to spash or cover myself in it.

I didn't have much trouble finding tires for the old 3 speed, I found a good independent sporting goods store whose bike dept (which dealt mainly with local kids's BMX bikes) put the lbs's to shame.

I was reluctant to go full slick on the tires since the trails I had in mind are generally crushed limestone or dirt, but I didn't want to go for a really agressive MTB tire because I don't like the buzzing sensation I get from riding knobbies on pavement. Good to know that slicks are suited to hard pack.

I was reluctant to go full slick on the tires since the trails I had in mind are generally crushed limestone or dirt, but I didn't want to go for a really agressive MTB tire because I don't like the buzzing sensation I get from riding knobbies on pavement. Good to know that slicks are suited to hard pack.

just run them a little softer than you might on the road. a 26x1.9 that I might use 50psi on the street, I'll run at 35psi on dirt. a 700x38 that I might run 70psi on the street, I'll run at 45-50psi offroad.

Get something lightly treaded. Slick tires are not a good choice for your intended use.

tread actually reduces traction on hard surfaces. car tires have tread because the flat wide tires need to give rain a chance to escape, but cycle tires have a rounded profile that naturally forces any water to the sides. any tread less than full knobs does very little but reduce the amount of rubber in contact with the road.

that said, when I said 'slicks' I really meant the sorts of semi-slick road tires you can actually find, since very few true slicks are sold.

I've read the theory and I've got a lot of real life experience.

I've read the theory and I've got a lot of real life experience.

I've ridden this 'cruiser' (a wide range 7-speed) quite a lot with semi-slicks off roads, including single track trail. sure, it looses traction on steep hills if you hit sand, but it does pretty good on almost anything else, I've even taken it through thick wet mud at low speed. I lower the tire pressure way down, maybe 30psi, when I do this. Where I took this picture, a little while later, i was coming down steep single track with scattered baby-head sized rocks. that was kinda scary, heh!

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_JS1yca5KB-0/TBBrWqTSzxI/AAAAAAAAuhU/ZVgOpXodHcs/IMG_6901.JPG

the tires are Geax Evolution 26x1.9.