Bicycle Mechanics - Heal strike

I have a Raleigh Detour Delux (2010) and am hitting the chainstay with the heal of my left foot.
(Non-driveside) at first I thought it was the no-name crankset that came with the bike. So I changed it for a Shimano Alfine (to match th rest of the drive-train) with external bottom bracket bearings. Still same problem. This bike has an eccentric adjustment system that the crank fits into, could it be reversed?

My recommendation is for you to use clipless pedals and shoes that will limit the rotation of your foot so that the heel will not strike the chainstay.

Well, yes, I do run clipless on my MTB and Road bike. This is my 'Hop on and ride short distance' bike. It is meant to be simple without requiring me to 'Suite up' to ride.
Even with that said, I don't get heal strike on any of my other bikes even without clipping in.

There are pedal axle extenders, often marketed under the name kneesavers. Might want to try one of those.

that may be what I looking for, Thanks. I'll do a little googleing.

OK< Kneesavers may be the way to go, but WOW, $45 for two threaded chunks of metal!

Sound like you are either your left foot out or the cranks don't have enought Q-Factor for you to position your foot correctly on the pedals compared to what you were doing. I have a similar problem on my bike (My right foot turns out naturally and my left foot turns in) but I have just enough clearance for about 1/4" or so at the chainstay.

I think they make adapters for pedals so that it adds Q-factor by moving the pedal further away from the crank. Or you could find a Crankset that is wider, like an MTB set and just mount one ring.

I believe the cam on those cranks is to adjust chain tension. Not something that will affect your heel strike unless is rotated to the forward position (like adding links the chain) and even then I don't think you will gain much heel clearance.

I found some pedal extenders for $16 and ordered them. There is very little clearance between the crank arm on the chainstay, so it must be the Q-factor. The extender should do the trick, only will need one, the drive side is fine.
Thanks for all the quick help guys.