Classic & Vintage - Dork disk exceptions, exclusions and proper fix.

First off, Flickr has been giving me issues so if there is no image someone will have to spot me.

I have a Raleigh competition GS with Nuovo gran sport three pin cranks. I am sure the disk was intended to be tossed, cast white metal with Chrome. It looks better without the device but I am not going to "rig" fasteners. Can anyone direct me (or offer?) a suitable replacement fastener?

Thanks in advance!

here is the location of the image

http://www.flickr.com/photos/frankthewelder/4733705262/in/set-72157624280229774/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/frankthewelder/4733705262/in/set-72157624280229774/

I'm not sure of what you are asking, but here are your pics. Nice looking bike.


http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1065/4733705262_c9d6309f59.jpg

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1378/4733704886_1b9c3a96b2_b.jpg

To get the image address,

1. Right click the flickr picture and pick a size.

2. Right click the link again and scroll down to "View Image Info"

3. Copy and paste the "Location" and use the "insert image" option for the BF forums. (I have some trouble with this, unless I "Go advanced")

Hope this helps in the future.

You mean the chainring guard. A dork disk would be on the cogs, next to the spokes.

Maybe you just need shorter chainring bolts after removing the guard?

Nice bike--it looks pretty original.

beautiful bike. I think I would leave the pants guard on.

As chain guards go that's one of the nicer ones I've seen. Really the only ones I actually like are those fancy ones you see occasionally on French touring bikes. But I don't understand the issue. Are you saying the bolts attaching the chainrings won't work if you remove the chain guard?

Are you looking to add a dork disk to the bike?

Since he is asking about fasteners, and you dont need any fasteners for a dork disk, I would guess that is what he is looking to do... ditch the chainguard. The bolts probably bottom out without the additional thickness or the guard itself has recesses that the bolt heads go into that are not present on the chainring itself?

Remove bolts.
Remove chainguard.
Slip washers onto bolts.
Replace bolts.
Am I missing anything?

beautiful bike. I think I would leave the pants guard on.

+1.

beautiful bike. I think I would leave the pants guard on.Hear, hear.

The problem with a "dork disk" rear spoke guard is that they not only look tacky (often cheap plastic), they serve no purpose in the majority of cases on a well-maintained bike, right?

With the chain/pant guard however, the dork factor is debatable, and they DO serve a purpose if you are going to use the bike for any casual/commuting type riding. Plus I think this particular example is really classy looking, as chain guards go.

Do what you want, just make sure you hold on to the chain guard for posterity's sake.

[k]

+1.

OK, it stays..

Hear, hear.

The problem with a "dork disk" rear spoke guard is that they not only look tacky (often cheap plastic), they serve no purpose in the majority of cases on a well-maintained bike, right?


[k]

Right, they serve no purpose except on that rare occasion when they prevent your rear derailleur from catastrophically going into your spokes because it somehow got slightly bent and you didn't know it. Sort of like an air bag on a car--they hardly ever get used.
Not trying to sound high and mighty--l've taken the disks off all of my bikes, too. But I sometimes wonder of that was such a good idea. I guess this is one of those times.

With regard to the pants guard, aka cuff guard, the answer to this question is easy. What do you use the bike for? If you're riding to the store to get bike parts and you typically wear jeans or pants while riding, leave it on. If you're using it in club rides while wearing lycra shorts, take it off (the cuff guard, not the shorts). It's a functional part, do you need the function? Yes, remains on, NO remove.

The problem with a "dork disk" rear spoke guard is that they not only look tacky (often cheap plastic), they serve no purpose in the majority of cases on a well-maintained bike, right?

I'll disagree with you in one instance: A long-haul serious touring bike. Weight doesn't matter, since you're going to ride loaded. If the look offends, you can't see it under the rear panniers, anyway. And if they just ONCE stop your derailleur from going into the spokes 500 miles from home, they ain't 'dork' anymore.

I'll disagree with you in one instance: A long-haul serious touring bike. Weight doesn't matter, since you're going to ride loaded. If the look offends, you can't see it under the rear panniers, anyway. And if they just ONCE stop your derailleur from going into the spokes 500 miles from home, they ain't 'dork' anymore.

+1 Besides, I like the look of some chrome ones, like the SRR in my sig.

I keep the metal ones on non-racing bikes. The rest go.

I like the trouser cuff guard things though. I usually ride in street cloths.

Dork disks are for dorks who can't maintain their bikes. Pants guards on the crank are kinda cool.

Dork disks are for dorks who can't maintain their bikes.

Well, that's a little harsh. They're also for cautious riders who may maintain and adjust their bikes perfectly, but worry more than the rest of us about about an unpredictable and random event (such as another rider bumping into them from behind with a tire) sending the derailleur into the spokes. And they're right, that can and does happen occasionally.

http://www.bikeforums.net/images/misc/quote_icon.png Originally Posted by dbakl http://www.bikeforums.net/images/buttons/viewpost-right.png (http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?p=11253166#post11253166)
Dork disks are for dorks who can't maintain their bikes.

I maintain my bikes vigilantly and have still have had them go out of adjustment with out me noticing right away. I imagine that a long cage system on a fast hard shift could find it's way past the big cog even when adjusted properly.
So I don't know if the term "dork" is truly accurate. Maybe "Errant Adjustment Inhibitory Plate" is more acceptable?

OK, it stays..

Darn. For a moment there, I thought I might be able to trade it out of your hands ;)

When it comes to chainring dork disks, Campagnolo is the exception; they look great. Ditto for the TA's.

-Kurt

Besides, I like the look of some chrome ones, like the SRR in my sig.

http://velospace.org/node/31170

Agreed, that is quite snazzy.

[k]

Darn. For a moment there, I thought I might be able to trade it out of your hands ;)

When it comes to chainring dork disks, Campagnolo is the exception; they look great. Ditto for the TA's.

-Kurt

I've been reading this since it was started, and forgotten I had made one last winter for my '39 Schwinn New World.

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p71/pastorbobnlnh/Antique%20Fixie/New%20World%20March%2012%202010/Mar122010CampyCrank.jpg

Pastor Bob, can we see the rest of the Schwinn?

Kurt, don't forget the Stronglight 93 chainguard. It's a toothless chainring.

Pastor Bob, can we see the rest of the Schwinn?

Kurt, don't forget the Stronglight 93 chainguard. It's a toothless chainring.

Speaking of Kurt, he built the wheels! :D

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p71/pastorbobnlnh/Antique%20Fixie/New%20World%20March%2012%202010/Mar19Ride2-1.jpg

Ooohhhh! That's special!

I've got a pretty nice pants guard that came on a set of SR cranks.

164266

sweet ride PastorBob, what tires are those?
wait-a-sec...are those 650B wheels?

Ooohhhh! That's special!

Yes, but I've found that any ride past about 10 miles the bars become intolerable. My shoulders hurt, my hands hurt, my back hurts. It's the most "taxing" bike I have at the moment. I have several sets of north road type bars to try, but the project will need to wait for inclement weather before I give it the time to make the switch.


sweet ride PastorBob, what tires are those?
wait-a-sec...are those 650B wheels?

They are the 26 X 1 & 3/8 EA3 or 650A (590mm) Panaracer Col de la Vie, mounted to new Sun CR18 aluminum rims (cudak888 built the wheels). Originally the New World would have come with 597mm or 599mm rims and tires, but new rims in that size are not made. Since I was only working with a frame, and not tied to a perfect restoration, I was satisfied with these.

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p71/pastorbobnlnh/Antique%20Fixie/New%20World%20March%2012%202010/Mar122010TireRimHub.jpg

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p71/pastorbobnlnh/Antique%20Fixie/New%20World%20March%2012%202010/Mar122010SAFW.jpg

Pastorb, do you ride it with the handlebars like that? If so, may I ask why? It looks extremely uncomfortable.

Pastorb, do you ride it with the handlebars like that? If so, may I ask why? It looks extremely uncomfortable.

The bars are uncomfortable this is why I plan to swap them for north road type bars. They are known as "Major Taylor" re-pop bars from Soma. They are a close match to one of the options available for a New World in the late '30s early '40s. I like the look in the catalog, found these for cheap on CL, and thought I'd give them a try. Well, I tried them and they will be changed out!

http://www.trfindley.com/flschwinn_1893_1940/1939_nw02.jpg

The bars are uncomfortable...

I bet if you moved the levers up toward the bend, and tilted the bar flats closer to parallel with the ground, then the bars would be much more comfortable. In their current position (which is very different from the drawing in the catalog) they give very little vertical support. Regardless of bar position, she's a beauty!

Yes, in Major Taylor's day, they had learned that racers need to have their handlebars low, but they hadn't yet realized that increasing the reach helps, too. They had very short reaches on the bikes. I couldn't stand that.

That Schwinn is nice. I really have a thing for high-flange hubs and wing-nuts..