Classic & Vintage - 1954 Rudge Sports Tourist

A neighbor who cleans out estates dropped by yesterday with a Rudge 3 speed, dyno hubbed bike that appears to be mostly original. On pump peg is broken off, and the dry battery pack is gone (if they had those in the US)

The wires to the (what appears to be original) lights are just hanging near the rear hub. Will I be able to hook these directly to the dyno hub, or is the pack a necessary component? Any hints or 'how to's' floating out there? I've never run across an old dyno hub yet.

No pictures of the actual, very filthy bike yet, but it appears to be this, taken from a blog by James in Portland:

http://1954rudgecatalogue.blogspot.com/


http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/3715/176/1600/13w.jpg

Also, is there a source for keys for the locking fork, or is that hopeless? For those interested, the date on the SA is 8-54, not as old as me!

Your Google button broken?

http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~hadland/samaintind.htm

http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~hadland/sa/saag.pdf

http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~hadland/sa/sadbu.pdf

I'm not certain of what you mean by the "dry battery pack", but I connected my lights directly to my SA front dynohub and it worked fine, although the light stops when I stop pedaling.

Are you wanting something to keep the current(correct term?) constant as you pedal?

Your Google button broken?

http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~hadland/samaintind.htm

http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~hadland/sa/saag.pdf

http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~hadland/sa/sadbu.pdf

Nope just taking the lazy way out, like my good pal, RFC.

Don't need to rebuild, the 3 speed works just fine. I just wondered if the US models actually had the battery packs, or if the wires can just be put right into the hub.

PS--Just the response I would expect from you.:love:

I'm not certain of what you mean by the "dry battery pack", but I connected my lights directly to my SA front dynohub and it worked fine, although the light stops when I stop pedaling.

Are you wanting something to keep the current(correct term?) constant as you pedal?Trying to figure out if the US models actually came with the battery pack, and it is a rear dyno hub.

The wires to the (what appears to be original) lights are just hanging near the rear hub. Will I be able to hook these directly to the dyno hub, or is the pack a necessary component? Any hints or 'how to's' floating out there? I've never run across an old dyno hub yet.

You can run the lights directly to the Dynohub, or use the DBU. At the prices the DBU's are going for recently, just stick with the stock setup.

Refer to the third link given by JunkyardBike. If you have a rear Dynohub, follow the AG/FG wiring diagram. If a front hub, refer to the GH-6 setup. That said, if the light doesn't turn on, check voltage with a multimeter; also check to see if the lamp's reflector is shorting out on the circuit board inside. Be careful what you touch when you spin the light - the 6V AC can give you a decent charge.

One of my '51 Sports was shorting out when I got it, and I didn't know it. Took it for a drive, and - for a moment - couldn't figure out why my arms and hands were tensing up the faster I rode. It wasn't painful, but it tested my will for a good couple of seconds.

-Kurt

Trying to figure out if the US models actually came with the battery pack, and it is a rear dyno hub.

In the '50s, U.S. models could be had with the DBU. Later stuff generally did not, though DBU's - virtually unchanged - were made into the 1980's. Later ones have a chromed Sturmey-Archer logo on them.

-Kurt

Thanks, Kurt. I hope to get to it in the next few days.