Winter Cycling - Studded Tires - Fenders - Other Winter Riding Must-Haves

I would like to ride during the winter months as much as possible - here in Michigan. I'm going to use my mountain bike - Giant Rincon for it. Do I need studded tires or what other tires could I use? Most of the time we don't get any snow accumulation until Thanksgiving or Christmas. As far as fenders, what about the flat type aka non permanent fenders? Can't forget about cleaners and such.

What model/year of Rincon are you riding? The reason I ask is that, in my experience, full-coverage fenders work the best in the winter. If your bike has provisions for mounting fenders (i.e. eyelets/braze-ons) then full-coverage is the way to go. PB Cascadias give good bang for the buck: http://aebike.com/page.cfm?action=details&PageID=30&SKU=FE7042. They are available for 26" bikes, hybrids, and road bikes. As for studs, Peter White had written one of the best tutorials on studded tire choices that I've ever read: http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/studdedtires.asp. I chose the Schwalbe Marathon Winter tires, but if I had more clearance I would likely have gone with the Nokian W106s. So far - no regrets. The Schwalbes can handle 95% of what winter throws at me, and for the other 5% I take the bus or get a my wife to drop me off with the car. Of course, if I had a Surly Pugsley with Endomorph tires I would tackle the dreaded 5% as well. IMHO carbide studs are the way to go and you should shy away from cheap steel studs on tires from Innova, etc. I would think that your winters would be similar to mine since I'm only 2 hours from Detroit and we get lots of lake effect weather here. Be prepared for regular (i.e. daily, or at least weekly) cleaning of the chain and drivetrain. Wax your frame and use a light oil to coat exposed nuts, bolts, cables, etc.

Get as much fender as you can.

Fenders are a" must have item" for winter commuting. Studded tires make riding on ice much safer, but they are not 100% neccessery. If you decide to get studded tires then get some Nokians or Schwalbees, cheaper studded tires are junk, not worth the money. Winter days are shorter so good lights on the front and rear are very important, high visibility clothing is also a good idea. If you are in a good physical shape then a fixed gear or singlespeed is very good for winter riding. ( or any type of riding ). Disc brakes also work very well for winter riding, ( rim brakes wear out your rims very fast ), so discs are good to have.

Thanks for the info. My Rincon does have disc brakes. I was thinking about a Magicshine light. Any suggestions for a front light? I have a Cygolite Night Rover that is junk and needs replacing anyway.

Thanks for the info. My Rincon does have disc brakes. I was thinking about a Magicshine light. Any suggestions for a front light? I have a Cygolite Night Rover that is junk and needs replacing anyway.

Sorry, I'm a little confused - typo? " I was thinking about a Magicshine light." and "Any suggestions for a front light?"

I might suggest...the Magicshine 900? I like the Dinotte 400L fairly well, to. It's definitely a better made light, with about the same lumen output, and you can get a lens kit with it to change the beam to your preferences. It also costs twice as much money though.

When I moved back to the cities from college, I started biking during the summer with the local bike club. This was...long ago than I'd like to admit, lol. Anyways, they didn't have studded tires then. So it was fall, and I was complaining that it would soon be winter and no more biking until spring. "Nonsense!" they told me. "You can bike in the winter! Some of us do it all the time!".

Well I had listened in on a few of these discussions before, so knowing what to ask I said "Really? yada - So, have any of you ever broken anything winter riding?" Unsurprisingly - every single one of them had broken at least on major bone when they hit some ice. Surprised by ice on a parking ramp, slipped out after some railroad tracks...Arm, collarbone...etc.

Now all "serious" bikers run the risk of breaking a bone as a result of their biking. Road racers, it seems, will inevitably break at least one major bone in a crash sometime during their career. Serious mountain bikers often face more than one. Some of these guys just look at it and say "yup, it will happen eventually, I'll be in a cast and my entire biking season will be ruined".

Now if you're one of those guys, that's cool - I guess you don't "need" studded tires. But if you're like me - not willing to take the risk of braking a bone or two - studded tires aren't an option, they're the only way you'd even consider riding in the winter. If you can protect yourself against being slammed into the pavement when your front tire hits that patch of black ice you totally thought wasn't there and it's night and you can't see anything, for a cost less than a single trip to the doctor - why on earth wouldn't you?

Now don't get me wrong - I don't put the studs on until there's actually a chance of there being ice on the road. I often ride in November with no studs if there's no snow and no rain-turning-to-ice. But once there's the slightest chance of ice, I won't ride without studs until there isn't a spec of ice on any trail (naturally, depending on my route, but I've run into ice unexpectedly way into spring - usually it takes a good rain or two with above freezing temps before it dissapears, and naturally it's easier to see if you're biking during the day rather than at night).

I'm not willing to head for that "oops, guess I broke my collarbone" so I can save $100 on tires.

P.S. Studded tires vary greatly in their speed. The fastest studded tires I know of are the Schwalbe Marathon Winter's. They're not cheap, though. But I have them on my bike, and at full pressure I don't lose more than 1mph vs non-studded tires on the same bike. One cool thing about them is that with their stud layout, if you don't expect to see any ice you can put more pressure in them and the outer row of studs no longer comes into contact with the ground (that's the less than 1mph thing). If you need more grip, put less pressure in the tires and the studs come into contact with the ground again. I get a little wobbly on ice at high pressure but I can stay up, at lower pressure I ride over ice 80% like it's bare pavement.

If you want cheaper (but still good enough to be recommended), the Nokian w106's are $44/tire about half as much as the Schwalbe's at $74/tire. They have a reputation for also being a quality tire, not quite as fast as the schwalbes, but they're reputed to be more grippy in snow.

Nokian and Schwalbe both have a good reputation with their studded tires. Like someone else said, the really cheap ones (Innova) should be avoided in general, as the regular steel studs wear down and suddenly you don't actually have studs any more (the Nokian and Schwalbe's have a reputation for their studs lasting longer than the rubber on the tire - in other words, the tire wears out before the studs do).

I have full side fenders for winter riding on my winter bike. One problem is that when you ride after it snows, the snow gets kicked up in the fender and stays there. It's never cause my wheel to stop spinning or anything (once the snow gets to close the tire burns the excess snow off), but it's kinda annoying. I would think this same problem with clip-on fenders might lead to losing your fenders.

Don't know for sure though.

Do any of you commute where you have to store your bike outside all day? Should a potential winter commuter invest in a cover or tarp of some kind? Any good brand recommendations?

Do any of you commute where you have to store your bike outside all day? Should a potential winter commuter invest in a cover or tarp of some kind? Any good brand recommendations?
I parked my bike at school everyday last winter at the uncovered bike rack (often the only bike there). I never bothered covering it, but I did leave a dollar-store showercap on my saddle and left the bike in 4th gear (in case the derailleur froze in place, which happened more than once). I would think a tarp might trap moisture which could freeze solid and lead to other problems. Of course, I'm just theorizing since I don't use a tarp to cover my bike - I park it in my locked, unheated garage at home.

With regard to lights I can't say enough good about the Magicshine. The only trouble I've had is the connector is hard to separate when the connection is cold. I run Nokian tires and they cost 2-3mph for sure. Studs are really, really useful on ice. As long as you don't have to turn, you can roll over most ice without too much problem but for actually riding when you may encounter ice, nothing short of studs is safe. If your Winter riding involves riding on snow, then the widest mtn type tire your bike can handle. Snow requires wide knobby tires, ice requires studs.

Lights? hub dynamo will not slip, Schmidt is the best but German prices, Shimano Alfine will offer disc mount dynamo hub too .
batteries need recharging,
and unless you tuck the battery in your pocket under your clothes it will work less well when its cold.
but stay on whether stopped or moving.

combination of both ideal..

thorn resistant tubes are several times thicker than regular ones, and will hold air longer.

3 speed hubs are quite robust , there is one planetary gear set, it stays meshed,
the shifting is between which gear is the driver and which one is the driven.
4/3 or 3/4.

I like the added grip of studs on those icy days. Schwalbes on mine. As for speed, I'm slower because I reduce my tire pressure quite alot because I like a nice big contact patch with the road.

I'm with the others, full fenders if you can. I prefer to mount mine quite far above the wheels to allow sticky snow an escape route, and position the tail of the rear fender very close to the wheel... it acts as a snow scraper, again to avoid buildup.

Full fenders will do so much for you and your bike... your drive train will love you as the front wheel won't be throwing sand and grit into your chain all day and your headset will last forever when you save it from the water the front wheel sends up the steerer.

And you will stay cleaner and drier.

I am running some short fenders on my winter bike now as it also gets used throughout the year as a rain / trail / bar hopping ride but before winter hits it will be getting a new set of full fenders.

Running fixed eliminates any risk of my hub freezing up at -40C... :)

I have been building my own studded tyres for many years and have been very pleased with them for as far as how long they run and how well they hook up when it is icy.

Usually run a studded front on a separate rim so I can swap it in and out as our winters can be dry and very cold with very little ice but when it does get icy it is a five minute job to swap front wheels.

Full fenders will do so much for you and your bike... your drive train will love you as the front wheel won't be throwing sand and grit into your chain all day and your headset will last forever when you save it from the water the front wheel sends up the steerer.

And you will stay cleaner and drier.

I am running some short fenders on my winter bike now as it also gets used throughout the year as a rain / trail / bar hopping ride but before winter hits it will be getting a new set of full fenders.

Running fixed eliminates any risk of my hub freezing up at -40C... :)

Well my bike has about as full of fenders as they come - a Civia Highland. However, if I bike after it snows, there will be a layer of snow on top of the chainguard by the time I reach my destination. What happens is the snow builds up on the inside of the fender, then eventually builds up enough that the wheel starts rubbing against it, spraying it all over the back of the bike.

Fenders are good against rain. They're good against slush. Against snow? I'm just saying - no fenders completely eliminate what's kicked up by your wheel.

When I moved back to the cities from college, I started biking during the summer with the local bike club. This was...long ago than I'd like to admit, lol. Anyways, they didn't have studded tires then.Soo... that was 45 years ago or so? Nokian launched their first studded bike tyre in 1968... :D

--J

I'm commuting on a mountain bike and will continue to do so in the winter. Does anyone have recommendation for fenders that will work with no eyelets, front suspension and disc brakes? In a perfect world I'd like some that can be mounted with higher clearance so they wouldn't have to come off to do a trail ride, but that may not be possible with anything sturdier than flimsy clip-ons.

OP, where in Michigan are you?

You probably would not regret studded tires. A) They are loads of fun. I head for the icy patches on purposes. B) They do wonders for your endurance. Come spring, you'll take them off and you'll fly.

Use wet lube on your chain. Dry lubes are too susceptible to all the slush and other wetness. Last winter I ran Finish Line's wet lube that came in a green bottle.

Good luck. Have fun. Don't feel guilty about driving on the really nasty days. Keep it fun.

Soo... that was 45 years ago or so? Nokian launched their first studded bike tyre in 1968... :D

--J

Lol, it wasn't *that* long ago! :-D

I'm thinking more around this timeframe (from http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/studdedtires.asp) -

Q: I've heard about Nokian tires losing up to half their studs. Is that possible?

A: Yup. Several years ago, (maybe 2001?) when Nokian first made a foldable studded tire, the Hakka 300, there was at least one flaw in the design and/or manufacturing process which caused the tread blocks to tear apart and the studs to fall out. The problem persisted for two years before finally being corrected. I don't know why it took so long to fix. They first made several changes to the tires which didn't completely fix the problem. But finally they got it right and the Hakka 300 is now a great tire which I am happy to recommend and sell.

Has anyone tried this DIY studded tire solution? I'm thinking of picking up a pair of < $10 wallmart tires and trying it when the snow comes. It sure would be nicer on my wallet than $65 tires.

http://bikehugger.com/2008/12/diy-studded-tires-for-icebike.html

Has anyone tried this DIY studded tire solution? I'm thinking of picking up a pair of < $10 wallmart tires and trying it when the snow comes. It sure would be nicer on my wallet than $65 tires.

http://bikehugger.com/2008/12/diy-studded-tires-for-icebike.html

There's a sticky thread in this forum about making your own, to -
http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?494562-Making-Your-Own-Studded-Tyres

According to Sixty-Fiver, the studs only contact the pavement when you're about to slip and this works well. I cannot say.

I will say that the major disadvantages of making your own are usually that -

1. Homemade studded tires where the studs contact the ground regularly, like if your route is 75% plowed pavement and 25% snow and ice, wear out much faster. Nokians and Schwalbes use not only "hardeded" steel, but carbide - a material so strong the tire casing nearly always wears out before the studs do. If they do wear, one day they'll work, then one day they just won't work any more. This has also been a problem with the cheaper studded tires from Innova that use cheaper steel in their studs.

2. Again if the studs contact the road regularly while rotating, home made studded tires are much, much slower than the commercial ones.

3. You get what you pay for, and a $10 might not be the best thing to ride, studs or no studs. Flats, early wear, etc. No puncture protection.

4. If you don't do it right, the screws can puncture the tube on the inside of the tire.

My summer tires cost at least $30/tire (cheapest decent, flat-resistant tire I know of). Peter white sells the Nokian 106's for $45/tire. If you figure screws will cost a little bit, and that the Nokians will last a lot longer than my home made tires, the Nokians are actually a better deal financially for me.


The most popular use for home made studded tires is offroad riding, where the studs don't wear much because they don't come into contact with the pavement.

I'm commuting on a mountain bike and will continue to do so in the winter. Does anyone have recommendation for fenders that will work with no eyelets, front suspension and disc brakes? In a perfect world I'd like some that can be mounted with higher clearance so they wouldn't have to come off to do a trail ride, but that may not be possible with anything sturdier than flimsy clip-ons.
A deflector shield that attaches to the underside of your downtube will offer some protection, as will a rat-tail or seatpost-mounted fender, but nothing beats full-coverage fenders. Here are some examples that may work with your application: http://www.rei.com/search?cat=4500786&hist=cat%2C4500786%3AMountain+Bike+Fenders

There's a sticky thread in this forum about making your own, to -
http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?494562-Making-Your-Own-Studded-Tyres

According to Sixty-Fiver, the studs only contact the pavement when you're about to slip and this works well. I cannot say.

I will say that the major disadvantages of making your own are usually that -

1. Homemade studded tires where the studs contact the ground regularly, like if your route is 75% plowed pavement and 25% snow and ice, wear out much faster. Nokians and Schwalbes use not only "hardeded" steel, but carbide - a material so strong the tire casing nearly always wears out before the studs do. If they do wear, one day they'll work, then one day they just won't work any more. This has also been a problem with the cheaper studded tires from Innova that use cheaper steel in their studs.

2. Again if the studs contact the road regularly while rotating, home made studded tires are much, much slower than the commercial ones.

3. You get what you pay for, and a $10 might not be the best thing to ride, studs or no studs. Flats, early wear, etc. No puncture protection.

4. If you don't do it right, the screws can puncture the tube on the inside of the tire.

My summer tires cost at least $30/tire (cheapest decent, flat-resistant tire I know of). Peter white sells the Nokian 106's for $45/tire. If you figure screws will cost a little bit, and that the Nokians will last a lot longer than my home made tires, the Nokians are actually a better deal financially for me.


The most popular use for home made studded tires is offroad riding, where the studs don't wear much because they don't come into contact with the pavement.

If you do it right, home made studded tyres will offer great performance and great mileage... we have seen DIY tyres run in excess of 8000 km and spend nearly as much time riding in winter conditions as we do summery ones.

There is no reason to stud the centre line of a tyre unless you are racing on ice.

I usually only need to run my homemade studded front for 15 days a year or so. It's a worn out MTB tire on a spare front wheel. Studs are primarily on the outer knobs. Works like a charm. I think I went about 1/8" too long on my screw choice, but no matter, I'll be using the tire again this winter. Actually I've just about worn out another MTB tire, so perhaps I'll stud that one up if I feel the need. In fact, I may even have another spare wheel so I can keep a studded tired wheel at work and at home in case of surprise snow/ice storms.

I've also been thinking about my theory that in fresh or lightly chunked snow, the best combo would be the fattest tire possible up front and the skinniest, knobbiest available tire out back.

This one's got some pretty good knobs for its slim 1.35" width. Might just get one for the rear this winter if I can spare the funds.
http://www.biketiresdirect.com/product/schwalbe-cx-pro-26

The knobs seem a little tightly spaced, but I'm still intrigued. Maybe I'll get out the knife and cut those center teardrop knobs out for good snow action.

I've also been thinking about my theory that in fresh or lightly chunked snow, the best combo would be the fattest tire possible up front and the skinniest, knobbiest available tire out back.That might work well, up to a point. But with more snow, narrow tyres are not good. Last winter I spent nearly 2 hours on a 15 km commute one day. On several occasions the snowbanks on MUP were up and over hub level. I have the narrower Nokian W106s (35x700) that cut through all the snow. A couple of times I run out of momentum and had to walk the bike. Getting going again was difficult, I needed to find a patch where wind had blowed some of the snow away and the patch had to be long enough to gain some speed before hitting the deep stuff again.

That day studs weren't helping any. I should have had the fattest knobby MTB tyres instead. The next day, much of the snow had been plowed and it was narrow studded tyres FTW as usual.

--J

Let's keep in mind during discussions of tire width that what works best depends on where you ride.

Absolutely a wider tire is better off-road. In my experience, a narrower one is better on-road. This seems to follow no matter what the snow depth or density is.

So, to the OP, are you riding your mountain bike on or off road? In fresh snow or after plowing?

Get as much fender as you can.

I commute in the Pacific northwest and I would have to agree. I extended some planet bike fenders by about 8" with cutouts from a 1/2 gallon milk jug and secured it with four zip ties thru 1/4" holes I drilled. I also took yellow 3M plastic tape and gave the fenders a yellow upgrade. It's a shame that many LBS don't stock cascadia model fenders (in yellow, which might not even be a sku for PB) because those built in mudflaps and yellow are a really good combo.

Also if you google (bike mudflap stair tread) you'll see other suggestions on fender mudflaps.

I'm not willing to head for that "oops, guess I broke my collarbone" so I can save $100 on tires.

The cost of using studs is more than just the $100. Studs are slower than regular tires. For some, this may be completely intolerable.

Personally, I agree studs are mandatory (they went a long way to convincing my wife I could ride in snow and ice safely), but it does gall me when only 1% of my route has ice and the rest is clear.

Paul

On ice, studded tires are often the difference between riding on, and crashing hard to the ground. The questions always becomes: 1. Where will the ice be? 2. How much do you like to smack the ground?

Continental has had a go at bridging the gap with a tyre with granules in the compound, the Top Contact Winter. Not yet heard of anyone using them. I'm intrigued, as if they work at all, they'd be perfect for the european conditions with only occasional ice and snow.

Talk to the maintenance guys, to see if they have a place to store it inside/undercover for you. Don't forget the box of donuts......

there are some great tips here, I'm a novice to studded tires, do I need to run a cross fork and frame to use them? I know my road tires have very little clearance and I'm afraid studs might rub if they stick out much past the tire.

+2 on the mudflaps. DIY. Make em' long to protect the BB from grit, etc.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4130/4986903958_3f853a1980.jpg

I even extended the front of the rear fender with a mudflap to further keep
the BB clean. Works for me.
Clothing wise. Get good gear. It lasts longer. Bike specific stuff usually doesn't
last as long as dedicated winter gear. I use mostly Cross-country ski clothing.
Sporthill, Mont Bell. Showers Pass rainjacket for my outer shell. Gaitors are nice
too. They keep the cold and snow out of my boot. I use Loki mittens. They're warm,
versatile, built to last and the price is right. The coldest I've ridden was -14.
Tire wise. I don't mess around. I've got a pair of Nokian Extreme 294's on a
separate wheelset that I'll switch to as the weather warrants. The rolling
resistance is minimal to me. Anytime you ride in bad conditions it's going to
take longer. You just deal with it.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4015/4388425424_82efd164cd.jpg

there are some great tips here, I'm a novice to studded tires, do I need to run a cross fork and frame to use them? I know my road tires have very little clearance and I'm afraid studs might rub if they stick out much past the tire.

I doubt you'll be able to fit studded tyres. By 'road tyres', do you mean 23/25mm wide tyres?

The narrowest studded 700c (road bike-sized) tyres are about 40mm.

Best thing you can do is get an old hardtail mtb bike for winter riding.

I doubt you'll be able to fit studded tyres. By 'road tyres', do you mean 23/25mm wide tyres?

The narrowest studded 700c (road bike-sized) tyres are about 40mm.

Best thing you can do is get an old hardtail mtb bike for winter riding.

Actually fyi, the narrowest common studded tire size is 35c, not 40c. There are also technically Nokian 32c tires, but they don't have a very good reputation for dealing with ice, so I don't personally usually suggest anything below 35c.

Best thing you can do is get an old hardtail mtb bike for winter riding.

cool, any favorites or tips for hunting craigslist used mtbs?

cool, any favorites or tips for hunting craigslist used mtbs?
There will be a lot of almost-new Big Box Store MTBs out there that folks bought, rode a few times, and put away; avoid those. Look for rigid models (no suspension) from big names like Trek, Specialized, Giant, and Cannondale. Also look for recognizable rear derailleurs like Shimano Deore (Alivio, Acera, and Altus are okay, too). Make sure you can test ride the bike so you can look for things like "clunking" from the bottom bracket and to make sure the bike shifts, brakes, and handles well and tracks straight and true. Take a bike-savvy friend with you if you're unsure.

cool, any favorites or tips for hunting craigslist used mtbs?

Anything fully rigid from a reputable brand. They go cheap cuz they don't have the suspension that real MTBs have these days.

Last year, I rode an old Trek 820:

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2631/4052869309_c9371d6080_z.jpg

This year, I picked up an old Raleigh MT 300 to turn into my winter bike. Going with gears this time around as I do have some gnarly hills to climb.

lots of interesting posts.
I think if you read through them one finds that there is no "best" for winter cyclinig, there is just what works for different individuals in different conditions (although most would agree that there is nothing like a nice set o' fenders).

These days what I like for our long, cold, snow filled winters is a ss road bike w/ 700x 35 regular tires with a nice solid tread line down the middle and a little bit of grip on the outside for banking out of ice ruts. I have found that leaving my bike outside (unless I'm planning on working on/cleaning it) cuts down on the corrosion b/c all the moisture stays frozen.

But again, what ever works for you. I've seen folks happily riding all sorts of contraptions in the winter. It can be fun to check out your community bike shop (if you have one in your town) and see what you can build up and test out.

Ride hard sweethearts

riding on ice with no studs is best left to those that still bounce off the pavement.

here's a crosscheck set up as a city bike with studs and big mudflaps. i'm running nokian hakkepalittas 700x 37. If i lived somewhere with more consistent snow i would set up the mountain frame with 26" studs.

my advice: buy identical wheelsets and cassettes, mount studded tires once. Rotate cassettes between the two thru the summer months a couple of times.

Leave bike where it can minimize the freeze/thaw cycles it goes thru. IMO this freezing and thawing is hard on the bikes as melted grimy, salted water drips down your frame overnight. and cleaning your bike daily in the winter? OCD!

I think you really need to spend a whole season riding in winter to determine what constitutes a "must have.". My first year doing it I had all kinds of crap: two bikes, the second a MTB with Nokians, fenders, etc. After spending a winter riding in Chicago (in 08-09, which had a TON of snow), I decided I didn't really need studded tires. Or fenders. (I fully understand the benefits but I would never classify fenders as "necessary" unless I lived somewhere where it rained literally half the time). So I just rode my regular commuter, albeit with 32s instead of 25s. Of course I live in a city that's good about plowing, which goes precisely to my original point.

So for me, anyway, winter riding must-haves include bright lights and thick gloves. And that's about it.

Ride hard sweethearts
You too, honeybunch. :love:


riding on ice with no studs is best left to those that still bounce off the pavement.
:D :lol::roflmao2::roflmao:

I think you really need to spend a whole season riding in winter to determine what constitutes a "must have.".

Ya, back when i started riding a mountain bike in the winter in Da Yoop in the 80's i felt i didn't need studded tires to get thru the winter. 'Foot UP' skid turns are a lot of fun on snow and ice, you can really develop a very graceful turning technique if you live where there are hills AND snow.

I forget how many times I biffed it though.

Now, I recommend studded tires now for snow or icy conditions. Sure you don't NEED studded tires to ride on snow, but it makes riding quite a bit more secure. - last pic is on a snow tour riding semi-knobbie Continental Travelcontacts.

I have two torn rotator cuffs so I do NOT want to go down on my shoulder for any reason. The road at my house has icy snow in front of it but I rode it out to the nearby larger road where I knew there would be enough traffic to melt any snow near the roadway. Studs make for a really slow, noisy ride so I'll wait till I really need them, but when it's really icy nothing beats them. I find my feet are my biggest challenge. Once I get to +20F I lose my cleats and I hate that. I wear NEOS over my shoes when it gets cold. I go to a mukluk at -10F and colder. I'd like to get a pair of Lake winter boots but what I do works well enough. Here I have dual MagicShine lights, my NEOS and a snowboarding helmet that allows me to close the vents if I need to.
173277

A clearance (measured from the tyre rubber, not from the studs) of 10 mm (3/8") between a studded snow tyre for road (like Schwalbe Marathon Winter, Nokian W106 or Nokian A10) and the fender would be adequate for on-road use of winter bike? Or it needs to be larger than that?

get the studded tires now - you'll need them for the black ice on roadways. you only need MTB tires for trails if you're on pavement you don't need such an aggressive tread but you do need the studs. personally I'm in love with my MAXIS Holy Roller BMX tires and wish they had studs.

A clearance (measured from the tyre rubber, not from the studs) of 10 mm (3/8") between a studded snow tyre for road (like Schwalbe Marathon Winter, Nokian W106 or Nokian A10) and the fender would be adequate for on-road use of winter bike? Or it needs to be larger than that?

There's no good general rule. Locally our snow is very cold, very powdery and doesn't tend to be sticky most of the year. The clearance you suggest would be great. If, on the other hand, you spend a good deal of time riding on wet snow, you could easily have problems with accumulation. It's usually more a nuisance than a problem unless you stop and something freezes in place to something else. I'm afraid only experience with your conditions will ultimately give you the information you want but in general I'd say you're good for dry conditions but problematic for wet snow. Just an opinion.