Bicycle Mechanics - Upgrade to Ultegra 6700 question
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I currently have Shimano 105 9 speed shifters on my 2006 LeMond. I can get a good deal on some 6700 10 speed shifters. I know I would need to get a new cassette, but would I also need to get new derailers of brakes? I have Tiagra brakes, 105 front derailer, and an Ultegra derailer (all came on the bike when I bought it). I recently replaced my crank and it would be compatible with the newer group. Thanks for your input!
08-12-10, 12:42 PM
You should be fine with the brakes and your front derailleur. Your rear derailleur should be okay, it will depend on whether it has the capacity to get to that last cog. That would be a "try and see". If nothing else, you can use the rear derailleur on the 9 and pick up a new derailleur at your leasure.
08-12-10, 02:22 PM
I think the 6700 stuff required a 10sp RD. I know my 6700 when I was using it didn't like the Tiagra 9sp RD and I ended up with the 6700 RD. A guy in my group has the 6700 shifters on 6600 derailleurs and he said that my bike shifted noticeably better than his. I have a 6700 RD to get rid of cheap... check your PMs.
With the brakes, the 6700 levers pull around 20% more cable from what I understand. The translation means that your brakes will move faster to engage but they lose mechanical advantage. My factory Tektro brakes on my CAAD9 seemed slightly less effective. I ultimately ended up with the Ultegra brakes but they are a whole different monster with pad compound differences as well. I actually preferred the Tektro but the being used to less power is probably a large factor in my crash... I reacted based on the pull I was used to and I think I locked up my front wheel at the absolute worst moment.
I also recommend a Yokozuna derailleur cable set. It's $20 that you will be more than happy with and drastically improved the shift feel and effort. I went through two sets of cables before I ended up with these and was finally happy.
08-12-10, 02:35 PM
Rear derailleur should be no problem, it is the front derailleur cable pull that has changed slightly, but it'll probably work more than acceptably. The feel of the brakes will change a little because cable pull has again changed there. The cable pull doesn't seem to be constant throughout the range of motion with the new levers, so I've found that when using the new levers with old brakes, it's best to adjust the cable so that the bite point (when the pad first touch the rim) is when the levers are a bit closer to the bars than how you would normally set it up (still making sure that the lever cannot touch the bar when full force is applied). However, braking power and feel is still not quite as good as when pairing the brakes and levers to match.
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