Electric Bikes - Locking your eBike

Question what are some of the tools, locks, and techniques that you have for locking your ebikes up? Given that ebikes can represent significant money, sweat equity, and if stolen a significant loss of capability I suspect that people here have some good thinking around the where, what, and how tos of locking up their bikes.

I myself just bought a $3k ebike, and have invested in the following locks:

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Fahgettaboutit-Bicycle-U-Lock-6-Inch/dp/B000OZ9VLU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=sporting-goods&qid=1281962169&sr=8-1

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-York-Fahgettaboutit-Chain-Bicycle/dp/B001SMUB7G/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&s=toys-and-games&qid=1281962169&sr=8-12

Even with this, I'm still concerned about making sure I have enough locks on my bike, and am using the proper strategy/techniques for securing it. The nearest bike rack is about 3/4 mile from my work, but I see a number of cyclists lock their bikes to the metal posts that line a terrace near my work.

1) Are there other techniques/tools aside from double locking with U-Lock + Chain Lock?
2) Are there other chains or U-Locks that I should know about?
3) What about carrying the front wheel and rear wheel into your work with you?
4) Does your work allow you to put the bike at your desk? (My current work would frown on this).
5) What about removing the controller or other critical e-bike parts?
6) What do you think about alternating the place where the bike is locked up to throw off anybody looking for a "pattern"?
7) What else do you do to secure your ebike whilst at work, grocery store, etc?


Thank you.

bicycle racks were good 20 years ago when people were honest now they still put it there around new building , because buildings code.
Do not even think about leaving your 3000 dollars bike out of sight.
My rule is if I cannot see my bike all the time I don't lock, leave it .
Our bikes have a lot of equipment on them, even if there are not stolen still can be stripped of stuff easly.
I walk into HomeDepot with bike and walk around with it, at Safeway I leave it always inside, in other places I leave it always between dors inside, never ouside.
i AM FORUNATE TO BE ALLOWED TO HAVE MY BIKE INSIDE AND CHARGED.
But I work in shop.
MC

Even with this, I'm still concerned about making sure I have enough locks on my bike, and am using the proper strategy/techniques for securing it. The nearest bike rack is about 3/4 mile from my work, but I see a number of cyclists lock their bikes to the metal posts that line a terrace near my work.

Just use one of these: http://www.pinzgauer.com/shpics.php?table=vehicles&idnum=30

Just use one of these: http://www.pinzgauer.com/shpics.php?table=vehicles&idnum=30

That's a good one. Thanks.

Hi miro13car...thanks for the insight. Not sure if I can bring my bike into work as it's a government office building, and the culture at this particular one just isn't there, plus we sit in "cubicle-like" areas. I may try sometime just to see what happens though.

BTW - I did get the eplus bike. yeeehaaa.....Will post an update on that thread after a week or two of riding. So far, so great though.

OO yes you are the one who ordered E+ ,
please,
please
tell us how it works.
I own TidalForce with 16,700 km on the original Cateye computer.
TForce is predecessor of E+ , basically E+ is improved TForce.
Sweet silence, smoothness, USA technology and worksmanship makes such a difference.
Damn, I am so interested in your experience with E+!!!!
First is it 1000W dersetrected model or restricted 750W??
motors and electronics are identical, they charge just for reprogramming sofware with strokes of computer keays.
MC

Yes it's sweet. As for sound, let's say "the wind is louder than the bike."

I'll give some more complete thoughts in a week or so. I've been waiting for the last of my safety gear to arrive in the mail before riding it into work. I'd be leaving at 5 am in the morning and need to make sure I have a complete set of lights, safety vest, etc. Also, the reason I ask about what people do to lock it up since I've not had to do that yet, and am very concerned to make sure that it doesn't get jacked.

However, yes riding it around the neighborhood and my town for a couple recreational rides, it's been quite phenomenal. I will say I have the Big Dummy, as opposed to the next gen TidalForce frame. It's still the same eplus motor, controller, and battery system though....and yes of course it is the 1000 watt version! Stay tuned.

Thanks.





OO yes you are the one who ordered E+ ,
please,
please
tell us how it works.
I own TidalForce with 16,700 km on the original Cateye computer.
TForce is predecessor of E+ , basically E+ is improved TForce.
Sweet silence, smoothness, USA technology and worksmanship makes such a difference.
Damn, I am so interested in your experience with E+!!!!
First is it 1000W dersetrected model or restricted 750W??
motors and electronics are identical, they charge just for reprogramming sofware with strokes of computer keays.
MC

What is your top speed so far on flat? I've always been curious about the e+ 1000w bike but just went with a hub motor kit for mine.

What is your top speed so far on flat? I've always been curious about the e+ 1000w bike but just went with a hub motor kit for mine.

I may not be the best case study since I'm 260lbs (which is part of the reason I'm trying to bike to work for exercise). However, with pedaling + a 15lbs New York Fahgettaboutit chain in the right panier + a similarly weighted rock from my yard in the left panier, I went 34 mph on a road. I wasn't even going balls to the walls with the pedaling at that moment though I was exerting myself to some degree.

I'll try to do a legitmate test on the flats ***without*** pedaling and also try another test going all out on the pedals at some point (just keep in mind that I'm over 260lbs which won't be going away for awhile :) Also I have a Big Dummy which is more of a cargo bike than a performance bike (not sure how that affects performance since I'm new to the cargo bike category).

I hope you are aware that E+ at this time will NOT accept third party battery like old Tidal Force.
Or there is any trick to perform on your E+ to force it to power up on any 36V battery.
We all know that manufacturer EMS is working to introduce so calle Universal Battery Connector next year.
And it will be big, big plus , because you can connect any 36V battery and bike would power up.
Your hub nickel battery might last 3years max., I baybyied my and it lasted 3 summers next become weak and weak, just chemistry you cannot do much.
my recent LiFepO IS ALMOST 3YEARS OLD AND DO NOT SHOW ANY SIGNS of weakness, opposite it is , feel stronger.
I use LifeBatt/BMI grey 10Ah cells made in Taiwan.
MC
MC

I have an Xtracycle with a 450 watt Ezee hub motor and a 36v LiFePo 10AH battery. I use a OnGuard U lock, and a hardened square link chain and a cable with a small U lock. I use the OnGuard U lock to lock my front wheel (the one with the motor) to the frame. I use the chain to lock the bike to something solid. I use the cable to lock the rear wheel and frame together. I want to get a frame lock to replace the OnGuard lock.

the solution is this:

http://cubeme.com/blog/2010/07/08/bendable-bike-by-kevin-scott/

:D

I too am a little worried about my bike and or stuff getting stolen. I try to park it in full view of working security cameras as well as use a U lock with cable of course. The lock I use is a 15 dollar wal-mart lock. It looks like this but I don't think is was the mini model. http://www.walmart.com/ip/On-Guard-OG-Series-Mini-U-Lock-with-Additional-Security-Cable-5510/14264312?wmlspartner=hLUPakqa5g4&sourceid=15237773251138667303

I am concerned about people stripping all my stuff off. No matter how you lock or clamp someone with pair of bolt cutters, wire cutters, screwdrivers etc can steal anything in minutes. There is no way to totally protect everything all the time so i say be smart about where and how you lock it.

I haven't tried this myself, but I know people that have said it works.... you may want to check out this page before you buy a kryptonite lock.

http://www.wired.com/culture/lifestyle/news/2004/09/64987

Thanks Pietzo.

Well that sucks. I know most people wont carry bolt cutters but if those U locks can be opened with a ball point pen then you can consider your bikes as not even locked. Scary stuff.

A another quick FYI in case you have a kryptonite lock and want to try this.

The friend of mine that was able to use this technique actually broke his lock in the process, so be careful if you want to try this yourself.

-Peter

I haven't tried this myself, but I know people that have said it works.... you may want to check out this page before you buy a kryptonite lock.

http://www.wired.com/culture/lifestyle/news/2004/09/64987

That story was actually broken here on BikeForums.
It is what brought BikeForums to public attention and the membership exploded afterwords.

Since then Kryptonite had redesigned their locks (it's been 6-7 years now).
That said when you buy a lock you want one with a flat key and not a round key.

It's worth noting that a pair of good torque arms with double pipe clamps on each one will both improve your safety, and the security of the bike, as it is quite time consuming to remove them off the wheel, and they definitely act to hold the wheels in their set locations in the drop out. Much harder to remove a wheel, compared to a front quick release. This is a nice side effect.

Yes I'm familiar with that ball point pen trick.

Actually, Kryptonite modified their design and has (according to what I've read online) replaced any locks with the old design from owners that complained. They definitely stand by their product which is one of the reasons I chose them.

That said, I would definitely be careful when looking at *USED* Kryptonite locks on craigs list, ebay, and what not to make sure they don't have this vulnerability.

http://www.bikeforums.net/video/
^^^^
The original Krypto lock story.

I use a $80 14lb Onguard 5018 lock. It's heavy but no one is going to cut through that thing. And the other best idea I have is to hopefully get a small enough lifepo4 or lipo battery where you can put it in a bag and just slide the bag off your bike, battery and controller in all. Might be a lot of connections but if you paid $3000 for it, it's worth doing. Topeak has bags that you can slide off your bike rack very easily.

look into http://www.bicycleparkingnetwork.com/, too....USA is slowly changing and incorporating bike paths and bike lockers. My city just got bike lockers, the ones where you can open a door and slide it in. It's like a mini-garage for a bicycle. You put in a password and the door opens. If you live in a big city, you might have them to use. And it's free, at least they are in my city. I think $6 /year to be a member, though. Not sure the difference between being a member and not.

Oh you have a E+ bike? Oh, I'd just get a 5018 Onguard chain and maybe a 2nd smaller chain for the back wheel and lock it up that way. Should be pretty simple for you.