Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - Is it worth it??

So I am considering buying a new frame soon for all these great parts (ex: Sram Omnium crankset) that I'm getting but wondering... is it worth it to upgrade? I currently have a Windsor The Hour frame/fork and wanted to know if I did upgrade what will i gain from it? I know its better material but will i feel it in the ride or just my pocket? Will it be lighter or the same? And is it a "bad/wrong" thing to put such great parts on a Windsor frame? By the way the frame I'm considering is the Leader 722TS. Thanks for any help/opinions :(

I have been chucking newer parts on my Hour frame. You can always switch out the parts if you choose to buy a different frame..

I don't think it's a bad idea at all to put "great" parts on an entry level frame, because those parts will still be there if you do decide to upgrade the frame.

You can move the new parts over to the new frame.
You can put the old parts back on the old one.
And then you have two bikes: one with a nice frame and nice parts, and one that you can beat around town without feeling bad.

And I think the Leader is a great looking frame.

Spare parts are always great and allow you to build up another bike, and who wouldnt want that?
Leader is a great frame, isnt it built for tricking though?

The 722TS isn't necessarily built for tricking. It's a quality all-around frame and I'd consider it a decent upgrade from the Windsor.

Wait, so are you saying that you bought lots of new parts for your Windsor, and now you want to upgrade the frame to match the new parts? Wouldn't it have saved some money just to build from scratch and not have bought the Windsor in the first place? :lol:

Wait, so are you saying that you bought lots of new parts for your Windsor, and now you want to upgrade the frame to match the new parts? Wouldn't it have saved some money just to build from scratch and not have bought the Windsor in the first place? :lol:

I'm not sure about the original posters situation, but my Windsor was my first fixed gear, and I bought it not knowing I would get so obsessed with fixed gears. I slowly upgraded parts, until eventually my parts cost more than the bike itself. Of course, knowing what I know now, I would have built from scratch, but at the time, I lacked the knowledge and experience.

The 722TS isn't necessarily built for tricking. It's a quality all-around frame and I'd consider it a decent upgrade from the Windsor.

I been spending too much time on tricktrack :(

Wait, so are you saying that you bought lots of new parts for your Windsor, and now you want to upgrade the frame to match the new parts? Wouldn't it have saved some money just to build from scratch and not have bought the Windsor in the first place? :lol:

I ordered the Windsor, my first fixed gear, about 4-5 months ago when I knew nothing. Now its pretty much all I think about. So yes I do have a few parts laying around that have recently come in the mail and I was wondering if it was worth it to upgrade my frame. I know i can always move parts over but lets face it some parts you just cant depending on sizing. So I was wondering if I would feel an overall difference between my Windsor frame or the Leader 722TS in riding or more so in my pocket. Last thing I want is to spend the extra cash on something I feel no difference with. :)

but lets face it some parts you just cant depending on sizing.
Such as?

I would be stunned if anything from your Windsor turned out to be incompatible with the Leader. The only static component I can imagine might need to be tweaked is a stem, and even that is only if you are really, really particular about your fit, and the geometry of the two frames is that much different.

Lol well wouldn't a fork/headset be an issue? What I really want to know is if its worth it to upgrade....meaning will I feel a difference in frames?
Btw if I'm wrong about anything just let me know, I appreciate all the knowledge I can get. Thanks

I'm pretty sure The Hours are 1 1/8" threadless. I'd assume the Leader is the same, but that's on you to double check.

Fair enough, OP. :)

It just made me think of this BSNYC post (http://bikesnobnyc.blogspot.com/2009/03/gold-standard-cutting-to-chase.html).


After all, when we upgrade our frames and components, what are we really paying for? We're paying for different colors and different names. Take the fixed-gear rider who purchases a $480 Mercier Kilo TT Pro from Bikesdirect:
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_wb8bAl1P-N0/SbACBdEF-9I/AAAAAAAAGYk/UVdaf6NDDR4/s400/mercier.bmp

Well, any "hardcore" cyclist can see that this bike needs some upgrades. First of all, you need some decent pedals, clips, and straps to use with your tattered sneakers. That's at least $50.

Also, that headset's probably got loose bearings. Sure, it might be serviceable, and in theory it will last a long time, but if you're going to be riding around on the streets (without a fender) you really need something "bulletproof." The "experts" on the various bike forums will doubtless vouch for the cost-effectiveness of this upgrade. Plus, as a bonus, "bulletproof" headsets come in a wide range of colors, and you're already a little self-conscious about riding an out-of-the-box bike. So you upgrade the headset.

Cost: $120

Next, you'll start thinking about those wheels. They're machine-built, and if they haven't been touched up by hand they may be going out of true. A little forum research will probably reveal that those wheels are "crap," and that they should be upgraded. Makes sense--after all, they were right about the headset. So you do it, but you only have enough money for the rear right now. First you buy the more expensive, "bulletproof" cartridge bearing rear hub by which everybody swears, and which is obviously way, way better than your current cartridge bearing rear hub:

Cost: $170

Of course, you're not going to put your cheap cog on that hub. Plus, the threading of the "bulletproof" hub is different anyway. So you get a cog and lockring both compatible with and worthy of your "bulletproof" rear hub:

Cost: $80

And it goes without saying you're not going to put that cheap rim on that hub. You're going to get something "bulletproof," and which, as a bonus, is available in colors that match your "bulletproof" headset:

Cost: $65

By the time you've got your spokes and nipples and someone to build it for you figure you've spend around $400. Or $450, since you're going to upgrade your tires too, and there are some cool ones that come in white.

Now that you're ripping around town on your increasingly "bulletproof" bicycle (total cost of bike to date: $1,100) you're starting to realize that drop bars without brake hoods aren't especially comfortable. You're also not going to go "flop and chop" on an increasingly color-coordinated and "bulletproof" bicycle. No, you're thinking you might want to go with some flat bars or risers. Since your "whip" is growing increasingly "tight," you figure you'll spend a little extra on something with some flair--and which, happily, is available in a variety of colors to match your increasingly color-coordinated bicycle. And $65 isn't that much to spend on a bar, is it? Crabon bars are way more expensive. This will not only require new bars, but also a new stem, since you've got to dial in your reach. And of course inexpensive aluminum stems fail all the time. You need something "bulletproof" that's "beautifully machined" and will complement your bars.

Cost (bar, stem, and grips): $130

Oh, and around this time you see an almost-new front mag-style wheel on Craigslist for only $200. Your front wheel has been holding up fine, but it doesn't really match your rear. And this wheel matches perfectly. Plus, you figure it's always good to have a spare front at home. Sold.

You've now crossed the fixie rubicon. Your whip is "tight" enough that you're becoming more involved in the "scene," and you're starting to get compliments. However, certain things are starting to bother you. You've got a sweet machined "bulletproof" stem but just a cheap aluminum seatpost. Sure, it's holding your seat in place just fine, but your stem's companion post is just so sexy. By this point you've realized you can't keep paying full retail at bike shops, so you're watching eBay constantly. Finally, you snag a practically new post with "minimal insertion marks" for $50. The money you've saved also justifies the purchase of a new seat, since the idea of clamping that cheap stock piece of foam on your sexy new post has secretly been driving you crazy. You manage to get a vintage used Italian saddle for only $45, as full of soul as it is of a stranger's ass sweat.

Cost (post, saddle, shipping): $100

Around this time, you find yourself shopping for a new chainring since you need to be able to change your gearing and sometimes you want to change chainrings instead of cogs. Chainrings are relatively inexpensive, so you don't feel guilty about it. But you start to realize that there aren't quite as many 1/8" chainring options for your 130bcd cranks as there are for 144bcd cranks. And anyway, you've got a pretty nice track bike now--shouldn't it run the track standard? Plus, a new crank is an investment in the future, since when you wear out your chainrings you'll have a much wider selection next time you go chainring shopping. Oh, and it has to match your "bulletproof" anodized componentry:

Cost: $300

By now the total cost of your Bikesdirect fixed-gear is $1,830. This figure does not include the money you've also spent on a bag, and on hats, and on clothing. And it's really bothering you--not because you've somehow quadrupled the price of your bicycle in three months, but because you've now got all this great "bulletproof" componentry on a "cheap" frame. At this point, if you just move all that stuff over wholesale to a "better" frame, you'll really have yourself a nice bike. A bike you can be proud of, and which will serve as a flag to the "scene" that you're on the premises when it's locked up outside the bar. So you spend $1,500 on a new steel frame and fork.

You've now spent $3,300 for a $480 bike. Sure, it's a different color now and it's got a different decal on the downtube, but philosophically speaking it's the same bike. Yet you don't realize this--until it gets stolen from the front of the bar because you locked it to a chainlink fence with your u-lock.

If you're lucky, you kept most of those old parts as well as your old frame and you can cobble a "new" bike together--which is actually your "old" bike, but which of course cost you $3,300. Or, if you're unlucky, you'll go through the whole process again and by the end of the year end up having spent $6,600. (You can't go back to "cheap" bikes now that you know what "quality" is.)

So really, "upgrading" isn't upgrading at all--it's inflation. It might take you years to spend $100,000 on a bicycle, but don't worry, you'll get there. Since you're really just buying looks and status anyway, so you might as well get it over with.
:D

You should work it.
Put your game down, flip it, and reverse it.

Fair enough, OP. :)

It just made me think of this BSNYC post (http://bikesnobnyc.blogspot.com/2009/03/gold-standard-cutting-to-chase.html).


:D


This is probably exaggerated, but so true...
I think it calls for a new thread about what you've upgraded on your bike and why... Might be interesting.

Upgrading for upgrading's sake is a waste of money.

Upgrade to solve particular problems. That goes for upgrading parts a-la-carte or the entire bike.

If you don't feel the need or have a good reason to upgrade, then you probably will be better off saving your money.

what's wrong with your current frame?

if the answer is nothing... how much is it worth to you to buy a frame you want that fits you that has no problems, and how much can you make back by selling your current frameset? odds are you can't sell an hour for much. odds are you want a relatively expensive bike. i don't think a 722ts is going to be that much better than an hour. it's better, but not 2-300 dollars better. and by the time you're done with your upgrades, you'll have spent closer to twice the difference in values.

Well after reading all this I am now officially more confused than I was when I originally started this post... thanks, thanks a lot. Well for starters the Windsor is 49cm and I believe I would fix better on a 51 or 53. I will be selling the bike to a friend for $200 which will ALMOST cover the cost of the Leader 722. So basically if I am right the reason for upgrading would be a more comfortable/suitable frame that's worth the 50+ dollars more to buy. Now what?! :D

Btw thanks for all the replies <3

Your original post implied that you wanted a new frame because you felt like all the new parts you were getting deserved a "better" frame, in essence. However, if you genuinely believe that fit is an issue, go to a LBS and try out a few bikes to see what size fits you best. If it turns out that the Windsor is not quite the right size, then sure, get a new frame.

Otherwise, like carleton said, there is no point in upgrading for upgrading's sake.

Also, I assume you mean you're just selling your friend the frame/fork and not the entire bike? Or did you already replace all of the stock parts except for the frame?

Your original post implied that you wanted a new frame because you felt like all the new parts you were getting deserved a "better" frame, in essence. However, if you genuinely believe that fit is an issue, go to a LBS and try out a few bikes to see what size fits you best. If it turns out that the Windsor is not quite the right size, then sure, get a new frame.

Otherwise, like carleton said, there is no point in upgrading for upgrading's sake.

Also, I assume you mean you're just selling your friend the frame/fork and not the entire bike? Or did you already replace all of the stock parts except for the frame?

Street cred.

Basically everything that came stock on the bike but have most replacement parts except for a few things which I have already found for great prices and don't mind spending the money on. Figured it would be the best time for an upgrade IF the size was too small for me.

IF the size was too small for me.
The real question is: are YOU comfortable on the bike? Do you feel cramped at all? Or maybe stretched out? Because if you don't, and everything's peachy, then great! The bike fits you. No need to worry if there's nothing wrong.

If you feel at all uncomfortable, try adjusting the key areas like seat height/angle, bars, etc. But if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Unless you really want to; it's your money. :)

Upgrading for upgrading's sake is a waste of money.

Upgrade to solve particular problems. That goes for upgrading parts a-la-carte or the entire bike.

If you don't feel the need or have a good reason to upgrade, then you probably will be better off saving your money.


meh...i don't know about this. I think if you want it and have the money, then why not? We could get into a whole debate about what people should spend their money on and why, but in the end it's their money.

I've blown tons of cash on my track bike and honestly i doubt it makes a huge difference performance wise whether I have SG75 cranks or Origin 8 cranks. Buttt I bought sugino 75 cranks b/c I like nice **** and because I could.

OP- get a new frame, but get something nicer than that Leader.

So many people are hating on the 722TS frames but they really are nicer than the price implies. I know Leader has gotten a bum rap in the past but they're coming around.

post - if you do end up getting the Leader, just make sure you do your homework regarding the size before you order and remember that top tube length is more important than standover height. The 722 is a little wonky when it comes to sizing - those measurements on the Leader site are based on center of the BB to the top of the top tube.

Bananas when going uphill my knees do, at times, hit the handlebars.
Scrodzilla no worries. I've done TONS of HW and will continue to until the day I order the frame. I'm also going to the LBS that's also a Leader dealer to get myself fitted for this specific frame :)
and PedallingATX I also love good ****!! Except I like getting it for a great price..... $135 for a brand new Sram Omnium crankset??? :)

I'm actually going the opposite route: switching the parts over from my Leader 735TR to an IRO Angus.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v390/blickblocks/aefa4d88.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v390/blickblocks/Photo167.jpg

I'm either going to sell the 735TR and buy a 725TR, or have it repainted and keep it. Not quite sure! I want the Leader as my "nice bike".

Bananas when going uphill my knees do, at times, hit the handlebars.
I didn't even know this was possible. I just went over to my bike to try and see if I could do that, but it was not even remotely close. Do you have pictures?

Cool hair, blicks. :thumb:

I don't, it only happens when I'm out of the saddle.

I didn't even know this was possible. I just went over to my bike to try and see if I could do that, but it was not even remotely close. Do you have pictures?

Cool hair, blicks. :thumb:


Happens to me on my beater bike. If a frame is a little too small for you, it can happen pretty easily depending on stem length, etc.

I have a nasty bruise from accidentally unclipping and jamming my thigh into the bottom of the drops. I can't imagine doing that just riding.

meh...i don't know about this. I think if you want it and have the money, then why not? We could get into a whole debate about what people should spend their money on and why, but in the end it's their money.

I've blown tons of cash on my track bike and honestly i doubt it makes a huge difference performance wise whether I have SG75 cranks or Origin 8 cranks. Buttt I bought sugino 75 cranks b/c I like nice **** and because I could.

OP- get a new frame, but get something nicer than that Leader.

There is your reason. Appreciating nice stuff is a legit reason. It provides aesthetic value which is worth something. But, if the OP doesn't care for Inexpensive Brand A over Expensive Brand B, then why spend the dough.

Honestly, the Windsor being my first bike I have yet to know how it feels to ride a bike that's my proper/correct size. So I'm basically spending the money on a new frame for a more comfortable/enjoyable ride. I'm hoping it will be somewhat of a difference I can feel in the Leader's geometry/quality of material/correct size...

Honestly, the Windsor being my first bike I have yet to know how it feels to ride a bike that's my proper/correct size. So I'm basically spending the money on a new frame for a more comfortable/enjoyable ride. I'm hoping it will be somewhat of a difference I can feel in the Leader's geometry/quality of material/correct size...

Did you buy your bike online instead of going into a shop? I assume so.

That was your first mistake. It looks like you are setting up to make that mistake again. As they say, "Don't throw good money after bad." Meaning, don't repeat your past mistakes.

Find a nice, friendly shop or two in your area and work with someone to get you on the right bike for you. Stop asking the internet for what products and what sizes to get. You need personal attention. That means IN PERSON.

Scrodzilla no worries. I've done TONS of HW and will continue to until the day I order the frame. I'm also going to the LBS that's also a Leader dealer to get myself fitted for this specific frame

I already said earlier in the thread that I was doing exactly that.... I guess you just read the last few posts.

I have a nasty bruise from accidentally unclipping and jamming my thigh into the bottom of the drops. I can't imagine doing that just riding.

That must've been a harrowing moment ?