Bicycle Mechanics - What tools do I need to change a ten speed Shimano Cassette?

As the title says^

Chainwhip, cassette lockring tool, and a big adjustable wrench (I like 12").

Or just pay your LBS $5 to do it for you.

1) chain whip: http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/TL707A06-Park+Sr-1+Chain+Whip.aspx
2) cassette tool: http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/TL707A05-Park+Fr-5+Cassette+Remover.aspx
3) wrench, fixed or adjustable with opening to fit cassette (above needs 1" wrench)
4) torque wrench

1, 2 and 3 are required to remove cassette
2 , 3 and 4 are required to install cassette

Note, use of #4 is highly recommended. Those who wrench a lot probably developed a pretty good feel for tightening the lockring, and some may not need it.

Thanks!

I've replaced mine twice. Each time the torque wrenched clicked the same time the cassette loudly clicked into place. Not saying you shouldn't use a torque wrench, but I think you'll get a feel for it quickly. Dollar says your shop just tightens it until it "clicks" into place (maybe even two clicks). But, yep, chainwhip and socket for lockring for sure, and either a big wrench or torque wrench.

I've replaced mine twice. Each time the torque wrenched clicked the same time the cassette loudly clicked into place. Not saying you shouldn't use a torque wrench, but I think you'll get a feel for it quickly. Dollar says your shop just tightens it until it "clicks" into place (maybe even two clicks). But, yep, chainwhip and socket for lockring for sure, and either a big wrench or torque wrench.

One or two clicks on the lockring are definitely not enough. Cassettes need to be tight. Loose cogs can damage the freehub splines and also cause shifting problems.

Actually, if you're going to just throw away the old cassette, you can omit the chain whip and just use a plumbing-type pipe wrench instead. You only need the chain whip if you intend to reinstall the cassette after you've removed it. You definitely don't want to reinstall any cassette once you've grabbed it with a pipe wrench. That said, chain whips are cheap and nice to have in the toolbox.

One or two clicks on the lockring are definitely not enough. Cassettes need to be tight. Loose cogs can damage the freehub splines and also cause shifting problems.

I stop when the torque wrench tells me to. Can't recall more than two clicks, though. But what do I know?

I stop when the torque wrench tells me to. Can't recall more than two clicks, though. But what do I know?

OK, all of my cassettes click several times before reaching the recommended torque.

You don't really need a chain whip, just an old chain. Nor do you need a wrench if you have a vice for removal. Put the cassette tool in the vice, wrap the chain around the cogs, put the wheel onto the cassette tool, wrap the chain around your protected hand (rag or towel will do), grab onto the spokes with the wrapped hand and the rim with the other and turn the wheel (counter clockwise I think). Use more rags if it starts taking your fingers off.

You can use the vice to tighten as well. You'll get a lot of torque by grabbing the wheel at the rim, but it won't be measured.

or stop by my house after work...new chain too?