Hybrid Bicycles - Can someone tell me what would be involved in putting these bars on this bike ?

http://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails.cfm?ID=3066

These bars

http://www.marinbikes.com/2010/bike_specs.php?serialnum=199

This bike

I know nothing - kinda answer me with this perspective. I just want a better set of bars with multiple grip positions.

You can read this thread about my experience: http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?651255-New-Trekking-Bars-A-Newb-s-Experience. It has a lot of great pics from both my build and other's, as well as a bunch of great comments and feedback. I also added a couple of updated pics just for you.

Have fun, and ride safe! :thumb:

If you have a set of allen keys and know how to unscrew and screw some bolts, you should be fine.
Simply replace the old handlebar with the new one :)
You might want to add some bartape to those bars to make them feel comfortable on all sides.
Take a look at timber08's pictures of his bike to get an idea.

If you have a set of allen keys and know how to unscrew and screw some bolts, you should be fine..

With good luck, yes.

Slightly worse luck will mean the derailers need adjusting because of a change in cable tension - this needs a fine-ish Phillips screwdriver and the ability to read instructions online.

Really bad, very unlikely, luck would mean that you need longer cables.SIS gear cables are a pain to cut so this would be a pro job. But unless your current cables are very tight and your bars very narrow this won't happen.

Adelaar's point about bar tape is a good one, but you should able to get foam grips if you really want softness.

SIS gear cables are a pain to cut so this would be a pro job.

I've read this warning before but have never had any trouble cutting them myself.
I use a professional very sharp and sturdy wire cutter, though.
Then I clean them of with a bit of sandpaper.
Maybe people are trying to cut them with typical multi-purpose plyers that have worn out or something, I dunno.

One thing to watch for and I can't tell if it applies in your case. Handlebars come in two diameters. When I put a set of VO Porteur handlebars on an old mountain bike I got caught by this. Had to replace the shifter and brake levers.

If you have a set of allen keys and know how to unscrew and screw some bolts, you should be fine.
Simply replace the old handlebar with the new one :)
You might want to add some bartape to those bars to make them feel comfortable on all sides.
Take a look at timber08's pictures of his bike to get an idea.
+1 on the bar tape - I used it on my bars and it's very comfortable. Also, since I am still using grips I was able to apply the tape more thickly, adding to its comfort. BTW Timber_8 posted some pics in the thread I linked to above.


One thing to watch for and I can't tell if it applies in your case. Handlebars come in two diameters. When I put a set of VO Porteur handlebars on an old mountain bike I got caught by this. Had to replace the shifter and brake levers.
That doesn't seem to be the case with trekking bars; my MTB controls fit the bars just fine.

I've read this warning before but have never had any trouble cutting them myself.
I use a professional very sharp and sturdy wire cutter, though.
Then I clean them of with a bit of sandpaper.
Maybe people are trying to cut them with typical multi-purpose plyers that have worn out or something, I dunno.

SIS gear cables have a very delicate "compressionless" housing and normal cutters, no matter how sharp, distort it, reducing shifting performance. What's saving you is the sandpaper - you're removing the damaged area.

The absolute best way to cut SIS cable - favoured by racers preparing their own bikes - is with a dremel and reinforced cutting discs, because these don't put any pressure on the housing. But this is a bit too much effort for most LBSes, so these use dedicated SIS cable cutters. The sandpaper method can work well but takes longer. If I don't have a dremel handy then I favour a diamond coated whetstone for sharpening knives - effectively a large file. They're sold for sharpening knives (I can't abide a dull cooking knife) and mine cost me about £7. So, yes, you can work on this cable without pro tools... but doing so isn't something I'd recommend to someone who needs to ask what work is required to switch his bars.

It's worth taking trouble with a dremel or file with brake cable too: damage to the housing can reduce braking power and responsiveness.

I switched to trekking bars with no problems at all. I did buy an adjustable stem and my grip shifters & brake levers went on with no problems. I put gel pads under the tape and found the Ultralight mirror from either re1/ortlieb to work well. My topeak med. bag bag fits right in