Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - Kilo TT Pro - Front Brake Clearance Problem

Hey guys,

I've had my 2010 Kilo TT Pro (53cm) for about a week now, and I finally got a pump today which actually had a gauge (I was borrowing a roommates pump with no gauge, but kept the tires at a relatively low pressure because I didn't want to accidentally over-inflate them without a gauge). Anyways, the max recommended pressure on the tires is 110 psi, so I pumped them up to 100psi...only to find that when the tires are properly inflated, my front brake doesn't clear the tire:

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e81/TurboDreamRT/photo.jpg

It seems like quite a few people on this forum have Kilo's ... how did anybody get around this? Aside from running it as a fixie with no brakes obviously. I took it into a LBS today and he adjusted it the best he could, but said the only thing I could do is get a lower profile tire.

Thanks!
-Rob

Had the same problem with my Stripper! Factory fork was slightly bent and caused the rubbing. My shop buddy fixed it with a PARK Tool (can't remember the model #). Everything is all better now even w/25c.

PF

My room mate had the same problem, he just shaved it down a tad

My room mate had the same problem, he just shaved it down a tad

Shaved down the brake itself? Well, sounds easier than bending the fork haha

I had the same problem . I ran a 28c fyxation tire up front and when I inflated to a good riding pressure it rubbed on the brake. I just filed down the brake calipers a little bit and it worked no problem.

Had the same problem with my Stripper! Factory fork was slightly bent and caused the rubbing.

um.

I had the same problem . I ran a 28c fyxation tire up front and when I inflated to a good riding pressure it rubbed on the brake. I just filed down the brake calipers a little bit and it worked no problem.

Mine is rubbing with a 23c though...

send it back, yo.

Mine is rubbing with a 23c though...

The combination of tight fork clearance, variations in manufacture and the design of those dual pivot calipers sometimes results in the situation you are experiencing. One possible solution is to file off the safety tabs on your fork ends (dropouts) and lower the wheel as far as possible to provide additional clearance. As long as you tighten the front axle nuts sufficiently, the wheel won't move, and even if it does it won't fall out.

NO NEED TO FILE ANYTHING! Have a decent Shop Mech. put a mild cold set w/tool.

For real

NO NEED TO FILE ANYTHING! Have a decent Shop Mech. put a mild cold set w/tool.

For real

are you talking about straightening out the fork bend? um.

I had the same problem. I sanded down the brake pads a wee bit and then adjusted the calipers a little closer to the rim. It opened up the space betweem the top of the tire and the bottom of the calipers an additional 2mm - just enough room to allow the tire to spin without rubbing.

anyone consider just slightly loosening the brake line?

anyone consider just slightly loosening the brake line?

That makes it worse.

Brakeless is always an option.....

*runs away

NO NEED TO FILE ANYTHING! Have a decent Shop Mech. put a mild cold set w/tool.

For real

Do not bend the fork, it will screw up how the bike handles. I would return it. You are using all the stock parts....the bike is incompatible with itself....that is simply not acceptable. This is typical of BD...poorly designed **** just slapped together to sell with no real forethought other than sales.

Had the same problem with my Stripper! Factory fork was slightly bent and caused the rubbing.

um.


NO NEED TO FILE ANYTHING! Have a decent Shop Mech. put a mild cold set w/tool.

For real

um.


Do not bend the fork, it will screw up how the bike handles. I would return it.

i was at a loss.

I had the same problem. I sanded down the brake pads a wee bit and then adjusted the calipers a little closer to the rim. It opened up the space betweem the top of the tire and the bottom of the calipers an additional 2mm - just enough room to allow the tire to spin without rubbing.

This.
I had this problem also, I didn't have to do any sanding but the trick was to tighten the brake line to JUST before the pads hit this causes the caliper to have a slight pivot and it does not rub.

This.
I had this problem also, I didn't have to do any sanding but the trick was to tighten the brake line to JUST before the pads hit this causes the caliper to have a slight pivot and it does not rub.

Yea, this is how I have it now...I just don't want to be bombing down a hill and have it catch and flip me over the bars haha. I didn't sand the pads, but I can adjust it so there's just BARELY like 1-1.5mm of space.

i was having this problem too, i emailed bikesdirect and they've replaced the fork, they're way more helpful than one might expect considering how cheaply they sell bikes

i was having this problem too, i emailed bikesdirect and they've replaced the fork, they're way more helpful than one might expect considering how cheaply they sell bikes

How'd that work out? Did you have to send back your existing fork? My girlfriend's bike has this same problem on and off.

X2 my girlfriends bike has the same problem. Her plan was to just deal with it till she could get smaller tires, but if it bikesdirect will fix it I might have her do that.

I would return it. You are using all the stock parts....the bike is incompatible with itself....that is simply not acceptable.

This. The bike is wrong as-is. It never should've been sold like that. Return it.

I know I'm late to the party but it seems that we're seeing a good number of Kilos with messed up forks as of late.

Did you try doing a centering adjustment? like loosening the pinch bolt and using a 4th hand tool give the brakes 1-2 cm's more of slack?and then and then loosening the center screw on the non cable side half turns. Or is it the fork? I don't own a kilo

Oh yeah and my one teacher Derrek said that sometimes paint will interefere with clearence. Hes been a mechanic since 1985 so I trust that he has seen it before, not saying thats the problem though.

i didn't try to work around the problem, once i realized it was a defect and that others had the same i emailed bikesdirect and they were very quick and helpful in getting me a replacement fork with a crown race already installed, good folks over there

The guys at BD said they only have black and chrome forks in stock... so they'll just send me thinner brake pads. Interesting...

Yea, I took a black fork, but I just ended up using a metal file to file down the brake surface a few mm's. Works great now. I'll keep the black fork and maybe have it threaded later down along the line.

The guys at BD said they only have black and chrome forks in stock... so they'll just send me thinner brake pads. Interesting...

What a weak answer. I'd demand a new fork, as yours is clearly defective. Tell them you want a chrome one.

Tell them you want a chrome one.

this.

this.

this.

Oh, I forgot to mention I have a green bike. So...

I was thinking about asking for a black fork anyways... I think chrome might look funky.

Chrome forks almost never look "funky"

http://velospace.org/files/Madison_front.jpg

Green frame + chrome fork = win.

um.

i loled

This thread just adds to the many reasons I won't buy a Kilo TT. In addition to the brake clearance (fork) problem:

1) Oddball 26.8mm seatpost size limits choices. Sweet Velo Orange Grand Cru won't fit (27.2mm only) :(
2) Steerer tube is 1", a throwback to threaded headset and quill stem days. Should be 1-1/8" for much better choices in stems.
3) Ugly rack mounts that hardly anyone will use but no water bottle bosses.
4) Fender eyelet on front fork dropout, but no clearance for fender at fork crown.

This thread just adds to the many reasons I won't buy a Kilo TT. In addition to the brake clearance (fork) problem:

1) Oddball 26.8mm seatpost size limits choices. Sweet Velo Orange Grand Cru won't fit (27.2mm only) :(
2) Steerer tube is 1", a throwback to threaded headset and quill stem days. Should be 1-1/8" for much better choices in stems.
3) Ugly rack mounts that hardly anyone will use but no water bottle bosses.
4) Fender eyelet on front fork dropout, but no clearance for fender at fork crown.
Would you buy a KHS Flite 100?

Would you buy a KHS Flite 100?

And your point is?

And your point is?
Seeing that KHS Flite 100 is the same as the Kilo but specs are slightly different...would you consider it a good buy?

Seeing that KHS Flite 100 is the same as the Kilo but specs are slightly different...would you consider it a good buy?

AFAIK, the frame specs are the same as the Kilo TT as far as my points 1 thru 4 are concerned, and the bike costs more, so no. Maybe their manufacturing tolerances are better on the forks, so at least the stock tires work with the front brake installed. Components can be replaced to upgrade a bike, but the frame is forever. A badly designed / conceived frame is worthless, regardless of the price. Just like placing water bottle bosses on the seat tube instead of the down tube is pretty worthless on a FG.

My fork is completely fine, the brake fits fine even with a 700x25c Pasela TG's.
The seatpost... yea, thats one drawback but theres always Thomson or that $50 carbon one >.> ( Unless you really prefer 27.2)
I put on a shim so I can use a 1-1/8" stem, its working superb so far.
I usually put my waterbottle in my jersey pockets, or if I am going to go 50+ miles, I can always get a seatpost waterbottle holder.
Backpack > Rack.

Thats just me though... I am not going against you though TT, I completely get where you are coming from, but hey, you can really complain when the bike is < $400.

Be sure to take a good look at the spring on the brake. My tire was hitting the brake badly until I noticed that the spring was positioned way out of whack. Fixed it in about 20 seconds and had plenty of clearance.

Green + chrome:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a267/g00eY/Photo0298.jpg

Plenty (normal amount) of clearance now...

Green + chrome:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a267/g00eY/Photo0298.jpg

Plenty (normal amount) of clearance now...

You think you can fit a 28c in that *****? Or a 25c with ease?

25c for sure. I don't know about a 28c...

i fit a 28 under the brake and a 32 on the back wheel.

the chrome and green is pretty, they offered me the chrome or black and i figured with my raw frame the chrome would be pretty but he found a raw fork so i went for that, if anyone with a raw kilo got the chrome fork i'd love to see pictures...

i fit a 28 under the brake and a 32 on the back wheel.

You have the magic kilo lol. Does size matter? My kilo is 50cm.. I want 28rear and 25 front. Most likely pasela tg.
Maybe even 28 front also.

ive considered a 35 in the back, but the 32 is plenty slow.