Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - Good rims for everything?

I need some rims that will hold up to whatever the city will throw at it. I will be using the bike for lots of commuting, riding around, and messing around in FGFS. I want some strong rims with eyelets and preferably machined sidewalls. I like...
Velocity Psychos but they are just too wide.
Sun CR18 but i hear they are weak
Mavic Open Pro but i hear they too are weak
Mavic XC 717 but I'm afraid they won't hold up

Any Help Please?

P.S. Lacing them to Profile Racing hubs and DT Champ spokes and alu nipples

Get them H PLUS SONs, dogg.

Always use brass nipples...

What do you mean they are too weak? A properly laced wheel will last a long time no matter what you do to it, just get the Open Pros and call it a day.

which ones are you referring to?

I've always liked aeroheads and they have been plenty strong, even used them without issue for CX racing.

I ruined an almost-new open pro front when I got clipped by some fat guy on an MTB and flew into a curb. Just about pulled one of the nipples through the rim.

I wouldn't get another one for city riding.

(By ruined, I mean it's got a little hop and a little bulging around one of the nipples, so I put it on one of my beaters and will continue riding it until it explodes).

Why would i get brass nipples?

I read on some forums that they go out of true real quick.
i'm going to be hopping curbs and possibly do some polo as well

which ones are you referring to?
Probably this one, since it's the only one they make with a MSW.

http://shop.hplusson.com/product/sl42

@dsh
that's what i'm afraid of

Probably this one, since it's the only one they make with a MSW.

http://shop.hplusson.com/product/sl42

but they don't have eyelets

I put a beating on my Mavic CXP-22s in a pothole ridden city and they never go out of true. They're also a good looking rim! A bit on the heavy side, but not what I care about for what I'm doing.

I've always liked aeroheads and they have been plenty strong, even used them without issue for CX racing.

Aeroheads don't have eyelets

ALSO.......

I really want some rims with a welded joint...

Well hello Mr. Fancypants.

Any of those rims should be fine provided you don't insist on some silly low spoke count build.

Avoid aluminum nipples; they're just weight-weenie fluff. They cost more and strip more easily than brass. Not worth the bother. I've built hundreds of wheels over the years and only use aluminum nipples if the customer insists on it despite my warnings.

There's nothing special about a welded seam. A properly built wheel is held together by the spokes. On weight-weenie wheels we used to take the pins out of pinned rims to save weight. Once built, the wheel works fine.

Any of those rims should be fine provided you don't insist on some silly low spoke count build.

Avoid aluminum nipples; they're just weight-weenie fluff. They cost more and strip more easily than brass. Not worth the bother.

I've built hundreds of wheels over the years and only use aluminum nipples if the customer insists on it despite my warnings.

I will be lacing it 36
I was under the impression that brass nipples stripped out more easily than aluminum?

Aeroheads don't have eyelets

That's what nipple washers are for: http://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cgi?id=359719162220&d=single&c=Repair-Parts&sc=Wheel-and-Rim&tc=Spoke-Nipple-Washers&item_id=SA-NWR

I will be lacing it 36
I was under the impression that brass nipples stripped out more easily than aluminum?

No, quite the opposite.

Any of those rims should be fine provided you don't insist on some silly low spoke count build.

Avoid aluminum nipples; they're just weight-weenie fluff. They cost more and strip more easily than brass. Not worth the bother. I've built hundreds of wheels over the years and only use aluminum nipples if the customer insists on it despite my warnings.

There's nothing special about a welded seam. A properly built wheel is held together by the spokes. On weight-weenie wheels we used to take the pins out of pinned rims to save weight. Once built, the wheel works fine.

Listen to what this old fart says... :)

I won't warranty a wheel if a customer asks for aluminium nipples... they are fluff.

Build wheels with a reasonable number of spokes and good base components and you should be good to go for a long time.

Dt swiss 1.2 is a good, strong rim.

Whoever told you Sun CR-18s are weak was lying.

Whoever told you Sun CR-18s are weak was lying.

+1 When I went to single speed I laced up a 36h cr-18 w/an old Schwinn hub and it's still true...that was 3 years ago. Had a 32h cr-18 on the front from a touring bike I parted out(still have the frame). They're called the 'poorman's Mavic A719' for good reason. Went to fixed w/t same fame/comps w/some off-brand called Aeromax from ebay(100.00w/tires) and the ss wheelset hangs there until my wife decides she wants to try them out.

Always use brass nipples...

What do you mean they are too weak? A properly laced wheel will last a long time no matter what you do to it, just get the Open Pros and call it a day.

This thread is over.

Listen to what this old fart says... :)

I won't warranty a wheel if a customer asks for aluminium nipples... they are fluff.

Build wheels with a reasonable number of spokes and good base components and you should be good to go for a long time.

thank you much sir

Any of those rims should be fine provided you don't insist on some silly low spoke count build.

Avoid aluminum nipples; they're just weight-weenie fluff. They cost more and strip more easily than brass. Not worth the bother. I've built hundreds of wheels over the years and only use aluminum nipples if the customer insists on it despite my warnings.

There's nothing special about a welded seam. A properly built wheel is held together by the spokes. On weight-weenie wheels we used to take the pins out of pinned rims to save weight. Once built, the wheel works fine.


thank you very much. you have helped a lot

What do you mean they are too weak? A properly laced wheel will last a long time no matter what you do to it, just get the Open Pros and call it a day.

I ruined the OP from bicyclewheelwarehouse. I hit some bumps at like 22mph, I didn't get a pinch flat but I ****ing knocked a flat spot into my rim. So the rim sucks, or the build sucks, or both :I

There is nothing wrong with a Mavic Open Sport, if you want to say a little coin. In fact, for a beater commuter set, I like the Open Sport better, if only because they have a wear track. Just a smidge wider than an Open Pro, single versus double eyelets, and about 60 grams heavier, although still under 500g. If you are building your first wheels, buy a set of these in 32 or 36h variety, some straight gage spokes with brass nipples, find some 105 or Ultegra hubs, and have at it.

Hmmm velocity chukkers?

Whoever told you Sun CR-18s are weak was lying.

This guy also knows of what he speaks... the CR18 is inexpensive because Sun has been making these rims forever and have paid off their tooling a few times over.

It is hard to beat this rim at twice the price, they come in almost every size and drilling you would ever want, we used to be able to order them un-drilled or in custom sizes, and have put a lot of these under touring and tandem bicycles.

Built right (this applies to any wheel) a CR18 wheel will take epic punishment.

65er, how about M13? Just curious, sorry.

I've got a set of 36h Sun M-13s (very similar to CR-18s but a few mm thinner) laced to Formula hubs with Dt Swiss double-butted spokes and they have proven themselves to be 110% bombproof with little to no maintenace. Plus, they look amazing.

I honestly can't recommend a properly built Sun wheelset enough.

I've got a set of 36h Sun M-13s (very similar to CR-18s but a few mm thinner) laced to Formula hubs with Dt Swiss double-butted spokes and they have proven themselves to be 110% bombproof with little to no maintenace. Plus, they look amazing.

I honestly can't recommend a properly built Sun wheelset enough.

and the price (100 give or take a few bucks at velomine) is complete bonarr if you dont want the veep/dp18 look

I've got a set of 36h Sun M-13s (very similar to CR-18s but a few mm thinner) laced to Formula hubs with Dt Swiss double-butted spokes and they have proven themselves to be 110% bombproof with little to no maintenace. Plus, they look amazing.

I honestly can't recommend a properly built Sun wheelset enough.

+100. Nothing like having the pro's on the forum. Appreciated, Scrod. I was confused because not many post on em. CR-18 is like a legend, though. I may have to go with that.

mavic cxp33. I built up a set of 36h rims. Muncie is pot hole central. I have hit BIG ones before and everything is holding up. Very pleased with these

I have a CR-18 built on a Paul hub that is my favorite wheel. I rode it with broken spokes a few times out of necessity, never had a problem (except for the spokes, but that was due to corroded nipples).

I second the mavic cxp33. They are awesome rims and I have put the set I have through hell and they have stayed true.

I also have the mavic cxp22 and they have preformed just as well as the cxp33. I have these on my beater with formula hubs. It has been one of the better cheap wheelsets I have purhased.

65er, how about M13? Just curious, sorry.

Scrod has more experience with these but I have never heard anything bad about them... I build wheels for commuters, tourers, and tandem riders so the CR18 is usually my choice for a low cost bombproof rim.

They also work well for restoration work as the high polish rims make a nice replacement for chromed steel and come in almost every size and drilling I could want except for 635mm.

One of my hardest working bikes is my Trek 7500 hybrid... it is rolling on Mavic MA40 rims and I would not pass on a set of these if you found some... I sometimes think Mavic stopped making them because they lasted too long.

Have had people tell me that these rims have lasted 15,000 miles on loaded touring bikes with nary an issue and the hard anodized finish is dead sexy.

I know it has gears and is the antithesis to the simplicity of an fg but these have been some damn fine wheels for many 1000's of km...

http://www.ravingbikefiend.com/bikepics/trekkercx1.JPG

Another rim I really like is the Mavic A719 but it costs more than twice as much as a CR18... build up a lot of these too and would consider the A319 a good second if you want some bombproof Mavic wheels.

On favourite wheels... the front wheel on my hybrid is a Mavic MA40 laced to a Sansin 40 spoke cartridge tandem hub... if you think it looks like a Superbe hub it is because Sansin made them for Suntour.

It is an outstanding wheel and one of the smoothest hubs I have ever run... and I get to play with some nice hubs.

As a dealer for Arvon cycles I also get to use these custom hubs for wheel builds and no-one makes a better made hub... as they are custom made and hand turned they are not cheap (but less expensive than PW hubs) and having 2/3/and 4 cartridge bearings in a hub makes for some incredible strength and smoothness.

These are getting built up into the most bombproof wheels you could imagine... 48 spoke Salsa Gordo rims laced to custom hubs with a 4 cartridge rear and a 3 cartridge front with disc mounts.

The guy who will ride them is six foot eight and 310 pounds... he should be able to do ten foot drops on these wheels and his frame will snap before the wheels do.

http://www.ravingbikefiend.com/bikepics/megawheels1.JPG

Figure I could have these ordered up with a 120mm spacing for SS right now and use a tommy cog for the fixed cog... hmmmm.

http://www.ravingbikefiend.com/bikepics/megawheelsrearhub.JPG

these are my favorite all purpose rims.

http://ekhatch.files.wordpress.com/2008/07/bear.jpg

Second the RR1.2's. Been riding them for about 6 months without out a single problem and I'm not particularly nice to my stuff. Potholes, curbs... Great rims.

http://img28.imageshack.us/img28/3127/picture2q.png

36H or go home

36H or go home

You got something against 40 and 48 spoke rims ?

:lol:

In other news... folks are gonna be wishing their name was Scrod (if they didn't already).

These are the most bomb proof wheels you can get. I don't know why everyone is going on about 36h rims...you only need 18/24

http://pedalsplus.com.au/shop/images/HED_Bastogne.jpg

srsly, tho, just wanted to show off my new road wheels

these are my favorite all purpose rims.

http://ekhatch.files.wordpress.com/2008/07/bear.jpg


My eldest sister had those in chrome on a black Lexus SC400 back in the day.

Nothing against 40H+ wheels , but those generally fall under "can you order me?". Not too too many calls for 40-48 drills, though there are some nice polo specific wheels out there that are pretty bombproof.

These are the most bomb proof wheels you can get. I don't know why everyone is going on about 36h rims...you only need 18/24

srsly, tho, just wanted to show off my new road wheels

Almost had me there... nice wheels if you are a lycra wearing pixie.

:)

Nothing against 40H+ wheels , but those generally fall under "can you order me?". Not too too many calls for 40-48 drills, though there are some nice polo specific wheels out there that are pretty bombproof.

We seem to getting a lot of interest from polo players who want 48 spoke wheels and custom hubs... it rates as severe use and you really need a wheel that will stand up to lateral impacts.

Consider that these wheels also get covered with protective discs to offer further protection and for strategic reasons and you have a ridiculously strong wheel.

I love graphic design in cycling, I've got some nifty ideas for polo wheel covers... one involves big fat boy shoe laces. But my current project is custom reflective wheel graphics/lettering.

http://img28.imageshack.us/img28/3127/picture2q.png

TJ-

what was the ERD for the Excellights?