Bicycle Mechanics - Cantilever or V-Brakes

After 6yrs and approx. 12k miles in all kinds of weather, I'm wanting to retire my old Dia-Compe 986's, which seem to be frozen up. I want to remove the little circlips to take them apart and perhaps clean them or something, should I even bother?

I have a ten year old Jamis Dakota (brakes are not original) with drop h/bars and road brake levers (not STI) that is my main commuting/transportation bike and I'm wondering if I should get new cantis or V-brakes? I'd prefer not to get those "Travel Agent" thingies and not spend an arm and a leg for them since I got eight other bikes and my wife is getting pissed at me for spending alot of money on bike stuff! :(

Side pull canti's, they require a lever with more leverage than a center pull though.
http://www.cambriabike.com/brakes/shimano_deore_m510_v_brake.htm and you need 'noodles' the little tube the cable housing fits to. They work way better than centerpull.
Mine are similar, 17$ per, 3$ for noodles.

v-brakes and cantis are both cantis, but it's easier than saying 'side pull canti' and 'centre pull canti', so I'll use the common terms.

so... a v-brake may be too much stopping power for your 700c wheels. It'll likely be more power than you need. A canti has much better modulation, unless you're buying really expensive v-brakes (I can hear your wife now). The other nice thing about cantis is that you can find used ones for free. Just ask around among riding friends. Someone will have an old part of mtb cantis collecting dust. Trade them some bike bit you don't need anymore. I'd never want to run a v-brake on my road bike, unless I was hauling weight. V-brakes are easier to setup and tune, but they tend to be on/off, which is something you don't want/need on a road bike. No finesse! I use some mid 80s dia-compe side pull calipers (road brakes!) with those wonderful koolstop salmon pads, and they stop very very well. I'm not familiar with dia-compe 986's, do they use brake bosses? Does your fork have brake bosses? If not, you're looking at a new fork too. Have you considered dual pivot brakes? Again, can be had for free.

best of luck in all your stopping pursuits!

I can't really say I have ever heard anyone claim V-brakes do not modulate as well as canti's. Quite the opposite I would argue. I've used some pretty generic Tektros, Avids, Pauls, Shimanos, etc, and all V-brakes I have used are superior to nearly any canti I've ever used. Best canti's though would have to be the Avid Shorties. Pretty easy to setup and powerful.

Side pull canti's, they require a lever with more leverage than a center pull though.
http://www.cambriabike.com/brakes/shimano_deore_m510_v_brake.htm and you need 'noodles' the little tube the cable housing fits to. They work way better than centerpull.
Mine are similar, 17$ per, 3$ for noodles.Side pull canti's ARE V brakes, it's just another term. I'd think you would have known that since you posted a link to "Shimano® Deore® M510 V-Brake®" The "noodles" won't help either he'll pretty much HAVE to use a travel agent to have any real clearance between the rim and the brake shoe due to the disparity in cable pull between typical road levers and V-brake levers. V-brake levers pull quite a bit more cable than standard canti or road levers and the pulley mechanism "takes up the slack"


I can't really say I have ever heard anyone claim V-brakes do not modulate as well as canti's. Quite the opposite I would argue. I've used some pretty generic Tektros, Avids, Pauls, Shimanos, etc, and all V-brakes I have used are superior to nearly any canti I've ever used. Best canti's though would have to be the Avid Shorties. Pretty easy to setup and powerful.First I'd heard of that too. It's sad that some don't believe that some people out there do know how to set up a V brake so that you can have powerful braking and modulation.

Sorry, well I got new levers, I ran some xc levers for a day or 2, a bit 'mushy' for a mtb but o.k. I was more trying to point out a reasonable 'V-brake'.

I bought newer high-end used :rolleyes: Shimano levers, new Shimano brakes, noodles.
$80.00 Can. for the upgrade.

I'l shut up now. :D

Hey, I know how to set up brakes and it's probably because I use 97 avid sd. I've been using them for 8 years and I'd know if I could get better modulation out of them. Why do people feel the need to posture on the frick'n internet? So stupid.

Why do people feel the need to posture on the frick'n internet? So stupid.
Why do people whine about stuff they can't control? Equally stupid.

Thanks for the info, Balance. Actually, I think I would prefer to get brand-new brakes instead of used ones, since this particular bike serves most of my transportation needs and I don't want any problems with them.

Anyway my Jamis Dakota (21 1/2 inch frame) is a mountain bike (26" wheels) converted into a road bike with all road components, fenders and rack, etc. The Quadra 21 fork is gone, replaced with a rigid one. It's a workhorse that has seen hard miles and is not a show bike.

Do you think the Tektro Oryx or Avid Shorties would be best with road levers? Or should I just go ahead and get the V-brakes and just splurge for the Travel agents?

How are you accomadating the 700c wheels on that mtb frame? Did you install a road fork? How about the rear brake?

How are you accomadating the 700c wheels on that mtb frame? Did you install a road fork? How about the rear brake?

In the post above he stated he runs 26's, it's a mtb..er hybrid..er Mod?

Tip o' the day: If you go with Pauls Motolite brakes you can run 700c on a 26" frame. Problem being the stupid V-brakes cost more than an Avid disc setup. ($240/pr!!!)

Tip o' the day: If you go with Pauls Motolite brakes you can run 700c on a 26" frame. Problem being the stupid V-brakes cost more than an Avid disc setup. ($240/pr!!!)Yeah but they are some sweet brakes.