Bicycle Mechanics - What hub, rim, spokes recommended

I was going to try to build a spread sheet for myself to keep track of different spokes, hubs, and rims and how they rate. While I was doing my research I found a spread sheet that lists something like over 700 hubs and 350 rims.:eek:

What I would like is a starting point of where to start and if you want the approximate cost of the item. I don't want to buy something that is crap to start with if I can avoid that mistake.

So I guess I'm looking for some recommendations on spokes, hubs, and rims and how to evaluate them.

For what it is worth I tried a search but could find the type of information other than a discussion on Shimano XT hubs.

The rims and hubs depend on what you expect the wheels to be used for. AS for spokes I build with DT 15 guage double butted spokes. I have used Wheelsmith with excelent results.

For my first build I'm looking at building a road tire. Durability would be more important than weight. I figure it will be a 36 count simply because from what I read that is a good spot to start. But, if you want to list what you use and why or when I'm here to learn.

Me, Friction shifting and freewheels is fine .. Phil Wood Freewheel Hubs..
the one I had was sold in a built up wheel for touring that I used for Years..

Mavic makes Good , if Pricey rims, and so If you want to run a 700 32 tire You'd get one model
But if the 23 to 28 tire was your preference I'd get a thinner rim.

Sometimes boreing is good.

Mavic Open Pro or CXP-33 rims (OP's are lighter, CXP's are more aero), Ultegra hubs and DT 14/15/14 spokes - brass nipples, cross 3. Not the lightest or the most aero or the most high tech BUT a wheelset that you'll never have to apologize for and, if you ever need a replacement part, they'll be easy to find.

Your question is vague. What would you do with these wheels?

There is no one-size-fits-all best wheel.

^^ The above is correct. From your question we don't know if you're asking about road wheels or mountain wheels. Do you want Lightweight or Durable, Racing or Touring, Hybrid, Unicycle...?

Shimano hubs are well built, last a really long time and are heavier than many others. There are plenty of other lighter options, but possibly at the cost of durability unless you spend a significant amount more.

This is a good article that covers some of the lighter weight road hubsets. If you read the article thoroughly, you'll see that they make a point to discuss hub flange offsets for the rear wheels, and discuss the pros and cons of each end of the range. I just recently built a wheelset around the White Industries H2/H3 hubset. As the article points out, it has a more extreme hub flange offset on the non-drive side. This creates a much lower spoke tension on the NDS than on the DS, but a very laterally stiff wheel. Other popular options such as the DT Swiss 240 hub, has a much more narrow flange spacing that allows more equal tension between DS and NDS, but doesn't have quite as much lateral stiffness for the same reason. Again, these are only hubsets in the "lightweight road" catagory, so it may not have any valuable information for you at all, depending on what you're looking for.

http://fairwheelbikes.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=65&t=6940

Oh, and aside from suggesting round double butted 2.0x1.8x2.0 or 2.0x1.7.2.0 spokes from DT Swiss or Wheelsmith, I can't say too much about spokes. I like round DB because they are easy to source, and replacements can be found at most LBS's. Plus they can build wonderfully strong wheels for much less $$ than you'll spend on the ovalized or bladed spokes.

I'll leave it to the real experts to offer advice on rim choice. Rim choice is probably the most important part of the build, and needs to be chosen based on your desired usage.

-Jeremy

Wow, that article gives a lot to chew on!

I don't think it makes sense to say the choice of rim is more important than the choice of hub. Hub, rim, and spokes all perform different jobs. The rim is a "wear item" i.e. is likely to wear out before the spokes and hub, unless you're building a cargo bike, in which case the rim may outlast the original buyer.

As I mentioned in my second post I was looking for a durable road tire, durablity more important than lightness. Using the suggested Ultegra hubs, dt spokes, and mavic 33 rims I estimated cost at about $392 for material, pricing off of Universal Cycles website. Does this sound about right.

I think it's important to set certain priorities for performance, durability, costs, aerodynamics, etc. Your priorities should probably be adjusted for road conditions and how much load is on the bike.
I ride paved roads that are a variety of flat stretches with short moderate to steep hills. Experiences and interests have caused me to change my first priority from aerodynamics to light weight. Currently my favorite wheels are: rear wheel, DT Swiss 240 S hub, DT RR 465 rim, DT Revolutions 2.0-1.5-2.0 non-drive side, DT Competitions 2.0-1.8-2.0 drive side 32 spokes 3-cross. And on the front wheel, and DT 240 S hub, DT RR 415 rim, and 28 3-cross Revolutions. All nipples are aluminum alloy with no problems.
I've put thousands of miles on the wheels over the last 7 years. Recently the drive side hub flange broke so I rebuilt the rear wheel. The original rim was an RR 1.1 single eyelet, on close inspection I found a crack of about 5 mm leading away from a spoke hole. I decided it was best to replace the rim at the same time as the hub and chose to use the double eyelet RR 465, adding 50 grams but gaining some durability. I blame the hub flange failure mostly on our rough roads. Obviously a steel hub would be stronger than aluminum but heavier.

As I mentioned in my second post I was looking for a durable road tire, durablity more important than lightness. Using the suggested Ultegra hubs, dt spokes, and mavic 33 rims I estimated cost at about $392 for material, pricing off of Universal Cycles website. Does this sound about right.

Not sure if you'd be interested, but I have a brand new (still in box) set of Tiagra 36h hubs sitting here no my desk that I was eventually planning to sell. If they were 32h, I'd be building and using them myself, but since I'm a lightweight, 36h is a bit more than I need. I received them (sort of unwanted) from my LBS who made a mistake and wanted to offer me something for it. They're going to be somewhat heavier than Ultegra, but from what I've both heard and read, Shimano hubs are quality built across the entire line. Let me know if you're interested, and I could part with them for cheap and save you some money.

Front = FH-4500QR 36H141x130
Rear = HB-4500QR 36H108x100

-Jeremy

a good wheelbuilder is in my opinion more important than what parts you use. if it's your first build, don't buy lots of expensive parts. it's not like you're going to break anything - although you could, potentially - but wheelbuilding requires finesse and attention to detail that comes with practice.

that being said, my first two wheelbuilds were with Mavic Open Sports, DT Swiss 14 guage (i think) double butted spokes, brass nipples, Surly and Formula hubs respectively. i also had access to a good truing stand, dishing tool, tensionometer, and experienced wheelbuilders. decent quality parts for not a lot of money.

in hindsight i wish i'd gone 32/28 instead of 36/36 holes, but i only weigh 130lbs and rarely carry more than another 20lbs.

Who do you recommend for getting the components?

Who do you recommend for getting the components?

I use my LBS. With a bike club discount my price will be similar to the on-line catalogs. Plus I can buy the number of spokes I want, not a whole box.

I use my LBS. With a bike club discount my price will be similar to the on-line catalogs. Plus I can buy the number of spokes I want, not a whole box.

I checked the two closest LBS and I didn't see any of the components I needed for a wheel build. There are other stores that I could check.

As I mentioned in my second post I was looking for a durable road tire, durablity more important than lightness. Using the suggested Ultegra hubs, dt spokes, and mavic 33 rims I estimated cost at about $392 for material, pricing off of Universal Cycles website. Does this sound about right.

Run that combination through Universal's Cutom Wheel Builder program. I have had a couple sets of wheels done there, and the price was just about the same as if I bought the components. They are also great folks to deal with!

I've built a number of wheels for customer's commuter bikes. I've had really good results with Salsa Delgado rims. They're fairly inexpensive at around $45. I'm currently using the lighter, but somewhat more expensive Velocity Aeroheads on my go fast bike. I think they're around $65. Unless you weigh more than 200 lbs or plan to do any loaded touring, I'd go with 32 hole wheels.

DBM, they must guess , to have it in stock, but you can ask for what you want.
The shop has an order book for several wholesalers , just look thru them
and have them order the stuff for you.

My LBS stocks only long spokes. They cut and roll threads to order.

My LBS rocks. It's High Gear Cyclery in Millburn, NJ.

I have found that this is a good source. http://www.cambriabike.com/default.asp
I built up a rear wheel for a 225 pound friend, who was breaking nipples on his shimano wheel, with a 36 hole 105 hub, DT 15-16 spokes and Mavic Open Sport rims. He has over 3k miles on it with no problems.

I have recently built three dynamo wheels for myself as well as a Nexus 7 speed IGH rear wheel. For my Big Dummy I used a 36 hole Salsa Gordo rim, DT 14-15 gauge spokes and the Shimano Alfine dynamo hub. The other wheels all used Velocity Dyad or Aeroheat AT rims. If trying for ultimate rim strength on a 700C or 26" wheel I might well go with the Velocity Chukker.