Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - Guess I have a worn bottome bracket.

My SST AL is starting to creek when I put X amount of pressure on the pedals and I was told it is the bottom bracket.
So I must ask, what should I look for in a bottom bracket, brands, materiel and where is the best place to get one?
I am more interested in durability (one that will last a long time) over performance. But a good balance is best.

Thanks

first check if the cup is loose. Cartridge BBs should last quite a while

edit- Is it the stock BB from bikesdirect?

Have you regreased it or put never-seize on it?

Are the bearings shot or is it just creaking?

first check if the cup is loose. Cartridge BBs should last quite a while

edit- Is it the stock BB from bikesdirect?

yes


Have you regreased it or put never-seize on it?

Are the bearings shot or is it just creaking?

It's just creaking, I will double check tomorrow though.

Yeah, my BB is doing the same thing as ben4345.

Running on the stock BB from Bikes Direct. Now it starts creaking every time I rotate it with strong force

The BB isn't properly adjusted when shipped by BD, I don't even know if the threads are greased, because the bikes are "factory direct" as a shop receives them. Time for an overhaul

The BB isn't properly adjusted when shipped by BD, I don't even know if the threads are greased, because the bikes are "factory direct" as a shop receives them. Time for an overhaul

Sounds like a job for the local bike shop :P

Just looked at the BD specs. What is a "semi sealed BB"?
Wouldn't surprise me if the current one is not correctly assembled.
I would go with one of the Shimano sealed BB, UN26 or UN54, cheap and reliable, if you need to replace.

bd specs are notoriously inaccurate, inconsistent or downright wrong. What it says is "sealed ball bearing" and "semi cartridge bearing" huh? Look at the photo, and it looks to me like yer standard non-adjustable cartridge bearing design, found on all of their bikes. Basically, the only thing that needs to be done is to make sure the cups are tight. To do this you need to pull the cranks arms with a crank puller tool and then tighten the cups with a splined cup tool. If you don't have these tools, then you either buy them or take it to your lbs.

The problem could also be caused by loose chainring bolts or even loose crank arms. Crank arms need to be tightened to about 33 ft-lbs, which can't be done with a simple hex wrench, unless you have monster hands. I use a calibrated torque wrench to do this.

If you are going to spend the time pulling the cranks and tightening the cups you should just pull out the cups, clean the threads, regrease and re torque everything. You don't know how many times I have did this twice before I learned. If a customer comes in complaining of a BB/Crank creak I do this everytime so they don't come back a week later with the same problem.

Crank arms need to be tightened to about 33 ft-lbs, which can't be done with a simple hex wrench, unless you have monster hands. I use a calibrated torque wrench to do this.

33 ft lbs is nothing and can be tightened with any inexpensive Wal-Mart socket tool set. The torque wrench is used to take the guess work out of it. If you've ever done a brake job on a car, then you've more than likely tightened and loosened a bolt that is torqued to a max of 34 ft lbs to remove and reinstall the caliper. Where you need a monster torque wrench is when it's critical that you know what the tightening torques are, something like the clutch flywheel for a car, something that needs 60+ ft lbs of torque. Bolts that need to be tightened in sequences (cylinder head bolts) incrementally. For example these types of bolts:

http://classicwww.summitracing.com/streetandstrip/charts_guides/charts_fordtrq.htm

Every bolt can be torqued to a recommended value or range, some require a longer handle lever to get to that value, the torque wrench allows a mechanic to accurately tighten a bolt. Otherwise, you're just guessing, like tire pressure without an air pressure gauge.

When I got my BB replaced (Kilo TT from bikesdirect) they told me the threads were cross threaded. Luckilly I got to trade services for services with my LBS to fix bikesdirect errors.

Luckilly I got to trade services for services with my LBS to fix bikesdirect errors.

heck I'd take a shot in the mouth if it gets my cross threads fixed!

I recently bought a BD bike and the non drive side BB cup was not even installed nor included. You probably would have noticed this instantly like i did because it sounded like it was about to break every pedal rotation. I sent them an email and they quickly responded wanting to help. As inconsistent as the bikes are from them the customer service seems to be great. If the bike has a defect don't hesitate to talk with them.

I recently bought a BD bike and the non drive side BB cup was not even installed nor included. You probably would have noticed this instantly like i did because it sounded like it was about to break every pedal rotation. I sent them an email and they quickly responded wanting to help. As inconsistent as the bikes are from them the customer service seems to be great. If the bike has a defect don't hesitate to talk with them.

Wow, that's nuts! I've got 2 bd bikes and had some minor issues with them, but never something that extreme. It reminds me of the really bad quality of American cars in the 1970s, when a body mount was omitted on my van. What bd bike did you buy?

it's the new windsor timeline. i assume it's windsors answer to the kilo wt.

i have an SST AL as well, just a couple months old, and it does the same thing. Ive taken off the crankset, greased it, torqued it tight, and still have the same problem... just a ****ty BB to be honest.
And i have 2 BD bikes, had a small missing dropout screw on the SST that they fixed for me right away. On my mtb, BD even sent me a replacement fork with very little questions asked.

weird, the creaking sound went away.. That might just mean its dirty? I plan on still cleaning it out though.