Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - The feel of higher end components?

So I did some research on my sputnik. it turns out I have an 07 Sputnik with an Vero(FSA) Crankset and Formula hubs laced to DA18. This weekend I rode someones Langster Vegas with Mavic Open Pros laced to all Cities, an Omnium cranks, S-Works Stem, Carbon Fiber Seat post/Handlebars and it was ridiculous. Geared at 18/48 vs my 17/48 it felt like a completely different bike, pedalling was stupidly smooth, it felt responsive and clean. Much Cleaner then my ride.

What I want to know, is I am feeling newer components? (mine are 3, nearly 4 years old.) Better components? (Old cranks and ****ty rims?) Or is it geometry? (Langster is more aggressive?)

I'm just curious because i've never felt a difference like that on a bike.

A new or well lubed chain will transform a bike. Best $15 I spend.

Geo plays a large roll. I went from A Peugeot UO8 to my Tommaso Track. Big difference.

I also went from Pake crank to Miche, formula hubs to miche, (and for my butt) charge to selle italia.

Big difference

tires. Big difference for me.

It is certainly worth considering replacing older parts. I bought my current bike used a little over one year ago. When I got it, I knew the derailleurs were somewhat old and worn. Just a couple weeks ago, I finally decided to get them replaced. It made a world of difference. Everything about the bike feels better. Anyways, 3 or 4 years (depending on how much you ride) is probably long enough that you should look into replacing some pieces of your bike.

Custom built wheels feel totally different than stock wheels. If you are on stock 2200gram wheels, and rode around on 1600 gram wheels, that will make a huge difference. Add to that if he has foldable tires and you are on wire-bead tires,.... you are probably spinning around on maybe 2 extra pounds of wheel/tire. BIG DIFFERENCE.

The Langster will be stiffer as a framset, the Omniums will be stiffer also. Translate that into a much more direct and "urgent" feeling at the pedals.

Carbon post/bars/stem may smooth things out, but a nice fork and a good wheelset will do more than all three of those things combined. My Langster, Carbon Cranks, Ouzo Pro Fork, Carbon Cobra base bar, Fizik Airone Carbon CX, Thompson post, 1500g handbuilt wheels, blah, blah, blah rides like a COMPLETEY different bike than a stock Langster. Night and day.

If you can, swap wheels with your buddy, and see where that gets you. I would suspect that its more than 1/2 of what you felt.

Most guys won't be able to feel crank stiffness. I know I can't. BB stiffness is more likely what you are feeling between the two. That to me says, the Omniums are nicer, ligher but probably not what you were feeling.

Hope this helps.

+1 on pretty much everything that has been said.

Want your bike to feel better? Get a new chain (or just clean yours and re-lube), get NICE tires (GP4000 will do), and if you have the money get a nice wheelset. Don't worry about stem, seatpost or crank.

I have the same question being that im in a build and choosing components....price plays a big part.

I am building up a pista concept that I plan on keeping for a while, so I may throw more its way.

I am very confused though.

My general rule of thumb. If I like the bike and plan on keeping it, I buy the best and build it slowly. I hate rebuying parts because I got mediocre parts the first time around.

Case in point where I did not follow my own rule.
On my Langster I purchased some FSA Carbon cranks (broke them), moved to Aluminum Campy Chorus, then Aluminum Campy Record, now on Carbon Campy Centaur. Finally done. If I had just purchased my current cranks ~$185 rather than used FSA's ($125), Chorus ($85), Record($125) I would have saved ~$300 and been happy at the get-go.

For a Pista Concept, I would get the best I could. Its not like there is going to be a nicer aluminum frame bike (arguably an Argon 18 Electron.... arguably) to move parts to. Perhaps a custom built Ti frame..... but that is a different animal.

A LBS has a Specialized Langster Tokyo & a Las Vegas model, they priced it at $ 875. I believe they are aluminum framed, the Sputnik is chromoly steel. I will say, just from spinning the Specialized's pedals backward in SS freewheeel, I could tell it was a pretty nice bike. Everything was new and clean obviously.

I had a tokyo. Didn't like it. Love my sputnik. I just don't remember my langster feeling anything like this.

I've said this before:

Ever ride in a luxury car? All of the contact points (where your body touches stuff) is nice and refined. That improves the experience. The same goes for your bike. Spend extra to buy quality:

- Tires
- Saddle (that *your* butt really likes, not anyone else's)
- Bars
- Grip tape
- Shoes
- Pedals

This will greatly improve your experience at moderate cost.

I understand that Carleton. However this wasn't just a comfortable ride. There was a significant difference felt through the drive train, it was far smoother then mine.

There was a significant difference felt through the drive train, it was far smoother then mine. Wheels and tires.

Do you know how to set proper chain tension? Have you maintained your chain? Does it need to be replaced? Are your tires inflated to the best psi? Do all that little easy stuff first before you start wondering about your crank arms.

I understand that Carleton. However this wasn't just a comfortable ride. There was a significant difference felt through the drive train, it was far smoother then mine.

Word. Sorry.

Then, it's probably the drivetrain like others have mentioned. An old and dirty chain can feel mushy. There are lots of ways to lose energy (and feel) in a bike's drivetrain.

Np, good to see you around SSFG again Carleton.

Drive train on my bike seems to be in good shape. Not that best components but I suppose i'll grab some lube and clean my chain this weekend just for ****s and giggles. I definitely believe it could be the wheels. I'm saving up for a new set of Open pros. I'm seriously considering a new crank.

but next item up is Mavic Open Pros laced to Formulas with Grand Prix 4000's.

Custom built wheels feel totally different than stock wheels. no.




small differences:

Peugeot UO8 to my Tommaso Track.
Pake crank to Miche
formula hubs to miche

big difference:

charge to selle italia.

..

bottom bracket is by far the most noticeable difference from higher quality

The biggest difference I've noticed lately on a FG is in the quality (precision machining) of the cog.

Also, I'm starting to hear/feel a click in my bottom bracket. Sunday night I felt it while I was riding around, just as the cranks spun. Monday when I was goofing around on my bike I only felt it when applying pressure, it happened as each crank hit the 5 O'clock position of the stroke.

bottom bracket is by far the most noticeable difference from higher quality

one properly serviced bottom bracket is little different from the next.

In my opinion, anything rotating is going to have an immensely different feeling if it's a higher end component. A good example from before is a nice aftermarket wheelset vs stock wheelset


riding a bike with a nice BB, chainring, chain, cog with the right ratio and proper chainline is bliss

[QUOTE=adriano;11576304]no.
I went from 2200g machine built wheels to 1500g hand laced, sapim spoked wheels and it was completely different. I suppose if we are talking exact same spokes, hubs, rims.... you are probably right.

As for your BB comment, I agree.... I've ridden DA, Record, Chris King, and even Enduro Cerramic bearing BB's before. Could not tell a lick of difference... then again they were all on completely different bikes so it was not like an apples to apples comparison..... All felt just fine, which is to say, smooth, without play, and with no perceptible increase in drag.

I will say, crappy loose ball BB's do actually feel like crap. But if you put a blindfold on me and had me pedal a bike with a Shimano UN-52 BB and Phil (all else being the same), I seriously doubt I would be able to *feel* a difference.

The biggest difference I've noticed lately on a FG is in the quality (precision machining) of the cog.

Agreed. My miche system is pleasing me to no end right now.

I had a tokyo. Didn't like it. Love my sputnik. I just don't remember my langster feeling anything like this.

Maybe I'm not making a connection to the difference(s), but the only difference between a Tokyo and Las Vegas is the paint job and stickers (theme of the bike).

http://www.specialized.com/zz/en/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?arc=2009&spid=38451&menuItemId=0
http://www.specialized.com/zz/en/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?arc=2009&spid=38445&menuItemId=0

Differences between Steel & Aluminum models are more obvious.

I will say, crappy loose ball BB's do actually feel like crap.

good loose balls are better than good sealed.

Fuji,

I owned a Langster, I was familiar with their stock "Ride" and feel of aluminum. Which also grants me the right to say that this Langster (which was far from stock) Had a completely different ride.

good loose balls are better than good sealed.
That is why I said crappy loose ball BB's....

Also, gimme a Phil or WI over a Sugino or Campy anyday.

PS. Do all your posts have to be so negative?

5,000 posts of saying nothing

if anything you WILL feel lighter wheels. On a fixed gear especially. If you're particularly discerning you may even notice the difference between how much spoke tension you can get on a handbuilt, eyeletted rim.

You can feel a better BB. The difference between a un26, which is always gritty out of the box and a veloce is tangible.

A lighter front end will feel snappier and easier to steer

A stiffer fork will transfer power better

"rounder" cranks will allow better chain tensioning , which done with a chain/cog/ring in good condition will feel smoother .

Good fit and a secure pedal interface are also big ones.

Stuff you will not feel

the difference between any decent quality sealed bearing hubs in good repair (aside from weight),

any headset in good repair,

"beefy chainrings"

the difference between cheap square taper pretend track cranks that are all made by andel anyway.

no.

yes. absolutely.



A stiffer fork will transfer power better

since when does a fork transfer power?

neh.

i have stupid high end crap on my bike. honestly it doesn't make too much of a difference. biggest difference i fell is carbon fork smoothing out bumps and road buzz, and tires. i threw some pro race 3s on my friends windsor clockwork for a bit and cleaned his chain, felt much nicer than with the stock kenda garbage tires.

that's just for bike feel. then you have other important upgrades like better foot retention and saddle, but that wouldn't really change short range feel as much in my opinion as a properly maintained drivetrain and good tires.