Commuting - 700c Disk Wheel Suggestions

Ok I'm not sure if any of you saw my previous 'which frame' threads, but I finally settled on a Gunnar Fast Lane. I now need to get a set of 700c disk wheels for it, and I am not sure what is out there in this market. I want them to be pretty sturdy so they will support my 180lbs and panniers. I suppose some cyclocross oriented wheels might work, but i am not familiar with those options. Does anyone have experience with the Mavic Speed City wheels? I dont know how much I like the 24 count spokes, but i do like the cartridge bearings. Would the best option be to just build up some 32 hole Open Pros with XT Hubs?? Thanks for any input!

Since you're building nice wheels from scratch for a commuter, consider getting the front wheel built with an Alfine dynohub. Dynamo-driven lights are pretty awesome if you're doing a decent chunk of riding at night.

I bought this wheel (http://aebike.com/product/handspun-pavement-series-2-front-alfine-dynamo-velocity-dyad-black-reflective-sku-we7246-qc30.htm) (or a very close relative) earlier this year and it is serving me very well. The rim actually has retro-reflective paint, which is a nice bonus for a commuter wheel.

Thats a good point.. I havent really looked into dynamo hubs. I will be doing some night time commuting, especially during these upcoming winter months.. Another question though, I have never gotten wheels custom built. How much extra would I expect to spend on spokes, nipples, and labor, when getting wheels built?

This will give you a rough ballpark: http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/wheels.html#wheelbuilding

Thanks for the info... Kojak, I like your idea, but apparently i cant send PMs untill my post count reaches 50.. Sooo.. i dont know where to go from there.

If you haven't done this before, leave wheel building to the pros. My first set of wheels was not good at all and I spent more money on it that it would cost to get a set of similar wheels from Bicycle Wheel Warehouse (http://www.bicyclewheelwarehouse.com/).

Adam

If you haven't done this before, leave wheel building to the pros. My first set of wheels was not good at all and I spent more money on it that it would cost to get a set of similar wheels from Bicycle Wheel Warehouse (http://www.bicyclewheelwarehouse.com/).

Adam

It won't save money, but an option that I used was to hire a wheelbuilder to build my wheelset with me - I did most of the tedious work, he stood over my shoulder for the final tensioning and truing. I ended up with a great set of commuter wheels, a good feeling of accomplishment, and some knowledge and skill in the mix. BTW, my commute wheelset has a schmidt dynohub up front, and a Phil Wood cassette hub in the back, both 36 spoke and heavy duty rims (Mavic A719). Not sure why anybody would want to commute on a disc wheel.

I recommend going with a 36 spoke build, especially if you are a heavier rider and carrying loaded panniers, higher spoke count makes the wheels much stronger. There are many good quality strong rims out there.You should do a search on the touring forum to get an idea which rims would best serve your purpose.

I'm very pleased with the disc brake wheelset I had built for my commuter last autumn.

I used a Shimano Alfine dynamo hub in front, and a Velocity 130mm disc hub in back (my frame is 130mm). Hoops are Velocity VXC (disc-brake specific) on each end, and everything's tied together with DT Competition double-butted spokes.


Pics here (http://www.brucew.com/blog/2009/11/26/751)
Ride report and build details here (http://www.brucew.com/blog/2009/11/10/736)


Strong, true, and great on rough roads.

FWIW, the Avid G3 rotors I used are fantastic as well. Like wheels, the more "spokes" a rotor has, the better it stays true. I havne't had to true the G3s at all in a year, where the other rotors I'd used (Deltas, and Avid Roundagon) required truing monthly.

How does one true a rotor? My bike, a 2010 Norco Ceres (http://www.norco.com/archives/2010/?id=ceres), has 8 "spokes" per rotor. The bike uses mechanical Shimano BR-M416 brakes with 160 mm rotors, but I don't know the brand of said rotors.

How does one true a rotor?

Bend it, preferably with a tool that fits smoothly yet snugly on the rotor.

Set the brake pads close to the rotor, close enough that you can hear a periodic "zing-zing-zing" drag, but not so close that they drag all the way around. As you spin the wheel, look inside the caliper to see which direction the rotor's wobbling, then bend that portion the other way.

When I say "bend", I obviously don't mean to yank on it with all your might. Just tug at it, check for clearance, and tug again as necessary. Always better to tug too lightly than to overdo it.

How does one true a rotor?

Bend it.

You can use hands, a crescent wrench, or, (Gasp!) Park Tool makes a specific tool for it. Before changing to the G3s, I got best results with just my hands. I started with the Park tool, but was always overdoing it. With my hands I can feel what's happening, and I can make smoother adjustments. takes about half the time too.

I have just about 5000 miles on my Mavic Speedcity wheels and am pretty happy with them. I have ridden them over some pretty rough stuff and they are still running true. I weight 185lbs and carry loaded panniers and run 25c gatorskins.

Speedcity wheels are pretty freaking bombproof, but I'll second the generator hub idea.

irclean, depends on your wheels, but the Deore front hub uses a Shimano Centerlock rotor, so options are limited. To true rotors I use a small crescent wrench.

irclean, depends on your wheels, but the Deore front hub uses a Shimano Centerlock rotor, so options are limited. To true rotors I use a small crescent wrench.

The Alfine generator hub also uses Centerlock rotor attachment, but Shimano sells an elegant and fairly fool-proof adapter for standard ISO rotors. Runs about $25 for the adapter, and another $10ish for the Centerlock wrench head from Park Tool.

Open Pros on Shimano M775s. DT db spokes.

Use them for mountain biking sometimes too.

The Alfine generator hub also uses Centerlock rotor attachment, but Shimano sells an elegant and fairly fool-proof adapter for standard ISO rotors. Runs about $25 for the adapter, and another $10ish for the Centerlock wrench head from Park Tool.

I was also gonna mention the Problem Solvers Centerlock-to-ISO 6-bolt adapter:
http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/BR605Z00-Problem+Solvers+Adapter+-+Ctr+Lock+To+Is.aspx
http://problemsolversbike.com/index.php/products/center_lock_rotor_adapter

I've seen these at several LBSes in my area, too, so they should be easy to find.

another $10ish for the Centerlock wrench head from Park Tool.

You don't need a special wrench for CenterLock rotors. The same one you use for your cassette works on CenterLock rotors.

You don't need a special wrench for CenterLock rotors. The same one you use for your cassette works on CenterLock rotors.

That's what I meant. :) I bought it specifically to move my front rotor to my Alfine hub.

You don't need a special wrench for CenterLock rotors. The same one you use for your cassette works on CenterLock rotors.

Maybe. I had an older Park one that didn't fit over the end of the axel with enough length to engage the teeth of the lockring. The new ones are all long enough, it seems.

So if i go the build my own route, will a mtb hub take a 10sp road cassette? Will open pros be the best options? What about a 29er rim, considering that I will be running at least a 28c tire? Also, I prefer cartridge bearing hubs, but dont want to spend 200+ on just a hub... are there any cheaper cartridge style options out there?

So if i go the build my own route, will a mtb hub take a 10sp road cassette? Will open pros be the best options? What about a 29er rim, considering that I will be running at least a 28c tire? Also, I prefer cartridge bearing hubs, but dont want to spend 200+ on just a hub... are there any cheaper cartridge style options out there?

I have the Speedcitys, and am very happy with them. They are a little lighter, and I think a little stronger than the Open Pro/disc hub build. Keep in mind that Speedcitys are made for road width tires, whereas a typical 29er rim is made for offroad width tires, so make sure you get the rim that will accept the tires you want to use. I run 23-28mm road tires on the Speedcitys, and 1.6" MTB slicks and 1.75" studded winter tires on my 26" wheelset.

will a mtb hub take a 10sp road cassette?
8, 9 and 10-speed all fit the same freehub body.

Will open pros be the best options?
Some people like them, some people prefer others.

What about a 29er rim, considering that I will be running at least a 28c tire?
The Velocity VXC hoops I used on mine are wider (23.5mm) although not called a 29er rim. I like the wider rims with 28s, and especially with my 35mm snow tires. I could tell the difference immediately coming from "standard" 19mm rims.

Also, I prefer cartridge bearing hubs, but dont want to spend 200+ on just a hub... are there any cheaper cartridge style options out there?
Look into Velocity hubs. I used their 130mm rear disc hub on my build ($140 list) and have been pleased with it so far. It's been only a year, so I can't speak to long-term yet.

You don't need a special wrench for CenterLock rotors. The same one you use for your cassette works on CenterLock rotors.

Actually, not always. I have a rear wheel sitting here that will make you eat those words :-) 135mm width, tool runs out of depth before it engages.

Schmidt uses 6 bolt rotors., though they also offer a centerlock model.

I'll add to the posts about dynohubs. I built up a front wheel with a Spanninga (Velo-Orange) hub. The 1-watt PB Blaze LED I bought with it seems acceptable for street riding. I love not having to worry about batteries and such.

On the negative side, the hub is a little on the heavy side.

On the negative side, the hub is a little on the heavy side.

I go with Supernova's point that the weight penalty of a dynohub isn't any more than that of a battery pack.
http://supernova-lights.com/en/products/dynamowheels.html (at the bottom of the page)

I go with Supernova's point that the weight penalty of a dynohub isn't any more than that of a battery pack.
http://supernova-lights.com/en/products/dynamowheels.html (at the bottom of the page)

Dynohubs require you to carry the extra weight regardless of whether you need the light. I only carry lights maybe 5 months of the year when the ride home is dark. The other 7 months, I don't need lights at all. For me, the advantages of a dynohub don't outweigh the disadvantages. Nearly my entire comute is on MUPs, so I can get away with little or no light until November.

I just pooped the weight difference.

FWIW. ;)

More relevant than poop, though, I always turn on my dynohub bike's lights, even in the daytime. My neighborhood, around Capitol Hill, has so much visual clutter and so many shade trees that I think it's a good idea to stay lit. It seems like drivers are less likely to cross too closely and pull out of their parallel parking spots when I've got the light on.

More relevant than poop, though, I always turn on my dynohub bike's lights, even in the daytime. My neighborhood, around Capitol Hill, has so much visual clutter and so many shade trees that I think it's a good idea to stay lit. It seems like drivers are less likely to cross too closely and pull out of their parallel parking spots when I've got the light on.

That brings up a related point: Even in the day time, even if there's not a lot of visual clutter, it's not a bad idea to turn your lights on in the rain for that little bit of extra visibility.

Whoa, that's a killer deal on that dynamo-disc wheel. I'm still debating if I should get drum or disc at this point though.

Whoa, that's a killer deal on that dynamo-disc wheel. I'm still debating if I should get drum or disc at this point though.

Go with whatever fits your fork. If material matters, I've also seen (and owned) carbon forks with disc mounts, but I'm not sure if there are any that are intended for drum brakes. I'd be a little wary of jerry-rigging the brake arm for a drum hub onto a carbon fork leg.

So if i go the build my own route, will a mtb hub take a 10sp road cassette? Will open pros be the best options? What about a 29er rim, considering that I will be running at least a 28c tire? Also, I prefer cartridge bearing hubs, but dont want to spend 200+ on just a hub... are there any cheaper cartridge style options out there?

I built a set of wheels last year with SRAM X.9 hubs. They're light, have sealed cartridge bearings and take a six-bolt rotor. I've used them for rainy commutes and short track mountain bike racing. I've only put around 500 miles on them so far, but I'm pretty happy with them. If you wanted to save a few bucks, the SRAM X.7 hubs look very similar. SRAM says the X.9's are a few grams lighter and have higher grade bearings.

FWIW, I built them with Salsa Delgado Cross rims. I feel a little weird about having used a non-disc rim for a disc brake wheel, but they fit my price+strength+width+weight requirements better than anything else I found. I'm not sure they would work with anything narrower than 700x28. I've been using 29x2.0 tires with them.

Andy_K, those SRAM hubs look great.. Pretty much just what I am looking for. How have they been for you? Any remarkable ups or downs? I have also been looking at the DT Swiss 370s after I realized they are just the newer version of the DT Swiss Onyx hubs i have and love on my MTB. Anyone had any experience with the newer 370s?

So far the SRAM X.9's have been great. I'm not really sure how much you can say about a hub. They look nice. They spin well. I had no problems with the build (my first).

The bike I've got them on is a tank, but I've been happy with the performance I've gotten with the new wheels. The real test, of course, will be how well the wheels are spinning at the end of the winter after six months of being saturated in road grit. I didn't get them finished until early spring of this year, and most of the summer the bike they're on was hanging on the wall.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4069/4495094775_41feb2ddde_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/26382505@N08/4495094775/in/set-72157618171696749/)

I just pooped the weight difference.

FWIW. ;)

. . . and your point is??? It make no sense for me to carry a light on the MVT, towpath and CCT when there is plenty of light from the sun. On Capitol Hill, you should probably be well lit up 24x7.

. . . and your point is??? It make no sense for me to carry a light on the MVT, towpath and CCT when there is plenty of light from the sun. On Capitol Hill, you should probably be well lit up 24x7.

I don't know anyone who both lives and works on a MUP, as in, they can ride out the back door of their house, get on it, then ride off into the parking lot where they work.

But, maybe some people do.

My real point is that a couple ounces of weight on the bike is the last thing to worry about unless you're going for a win in a mountain stage race.

Soo.. Thinking of having some wheels built up and going with Mavic TN719 rims front and rear (32 hole), and either XT, Sram X9, or DT Swiss 379 hubs, and DT swiss straight gauge spokes. Anyone have any suggestions, preferences, or tweaks on that setup? I figure that the mtb duty rim and straight gauge spokes will make up for the strenghth lost by going 32 spokes over 36.

Andy_K, those SRAM hubs look great.. Pretty much just what I am looking for. How have they been for you? Any remarkable ups or downs? I have also been looking at the DT Swiss 370s after I realized they are just the newer version of the DT Swiss Onyx hubs i have and love on my MTB. Anyone had any experience with the newer 370s?

Yeah, great. Super simple to service clean and oil. Can get expensive when bearings go as it's all cartridge and the freehub body has it's bearing press-fit in.

Soo.. Thinking of having some wheels built up and going with Mavic TN719 rims front and rear (32 hole), and either XT, Sram X9, or DT Swiss 379 hubs, and DT swiss straight gauge spokes. Anyone have any suggestions, preferences, or tweaks on that setup? I figure that the mtb duty rim and straight gauge spokes will make up for the strenghth lost by going 32 spokes over 36.

I wouldn't go with straight gauge spokes. My understanding is that butted spokes are just as strong in the places where spokes typically break. Otherwise, it sounds like a good plan.

Soo.. Thinking of having some wheels built up and going with Mavic TN719 rims front and rear (32 hole), and either XT, Sram X9, or DT Swiss 379 hubs, and DT swiss straight gauge spokes. Anyone have any suggestions, preferences, or tweaks on that setup? I figure that the mtb duty rim and straight gauge spokes will make up for the strenghth lost by going 32 spokes over 36.

Nope. Go with double-butted. Our old pal, Sheldon Brown explains it best: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html#spokes

I don't know anyone who both lives and works on a MUP, as in, they can ride out the back door of their house, get on it, then ride off into the parking lot where they work.

But, maybe some people do.

My real point is that a couple ounces of weight on the bike is the last thing to worry about unless you're going for a win in a mountain stage race.

I guess I'm one of the lucky commuters that rides almost entirely on MUPs (15-20 miles each way). The non-MUP portions are on quiet residential streets.

I try to limit extra weight wherever possible, as it all adds up, and takes away from speed, ride quality and enjoyment:

I leave my shoes, belt, lights, tools, lube and locks at work
carry CO2 rather than a pump
use a trunk bag rather than panniers (lighter and more aero)
use a lighter wheelset and tires without sacrificing durability
don't carry a multitool

I figure that adds up to at least 5-7 pounds of gear I'm not constantly hauling around.

Thanks for the tip on the butted spokes! One last question though to narrow down my hub choice. When I spend a winter commuting in the rain, will the sealed cartridge bearings in the SRAM hubs make a difference over the loose balls of the XT Hubs? Of course, the XT hubs are serviceable by me without a shop, but is one preferable over the other?

Edit: Sorry, one more to add to that. Brass or Alloy nipples? Ive heard that Alloy shouldnt be used with disk hubs... But i can get pretty colors with Alloy!

The TN719s are a good choice, as are the double-butted spokes. FWIW, i've heard stories on corrosion problems from the AL nipples and salt-spray, but honestly, i had corrosion on my brass nipples from NY salt spray too (just cleaned it off, no problems and still rolling fine). The pretty colors are enticing, but given that they'll likely be spinning at high speed, and when not spinning covered in road grime there are probably bigger issues at hand.

I've been lured by cartridge bearings, but owning an XT hub i have to say that the maintenance is really simple and the hub has operated flawlessly. White Industries, Paul, Phil, and King all make pretty hubs, but all of them will need servicing at some point, and the XT (as you point out) is user-friendly. If i had my druthers i'd lose the XT hub and get a nice SON dynamo hub. Also, don't worry about the ISO vs. centerlock issue; just make sure the disc rotor diameter is the same (e.g., a SON20R centerlock will work fine with the corresponding Avid caliper).

Yeah, I really don't know about the cartridge bearings. In theory, they're better protected against the elements. I'm not sure it really makes a difference. Ask me again next summer. Or, better yet, ask your wheel builder.

http://supernova-lights.com/en/products/dynamowheels.html

okay, I'm not really a dyno-hub kind of guy.

But that one with the carbon rim got my attention.

More relevant than poop, though, I always turn on my dynohub bike's lights, even in the daytime. My neighborhood, around Capitol Hill, has so much visual clutter and so many shade trees that I think it's a good idea to stay lit. It seems like drivers are less likely to cross too closely and pull out of their parallel parking spots when I've got the light on.

That is one significant point. The extra weight is not noticeable for me (who carries so many tools and other crap that rarely get used...)... except when I lift the front wheel!

Having the light on all the time is a nice feature.