Track Cycling: Velodrome Racing and Training Area - Budget track bike build

Just looking for opinions on the best way to go about doing this.

I've always wanted a track bike, not to be confused with a fixie, and this should do the trick. It's a TT frame, but it has track drop outs + derailleur hanger, so it should work.

The problem is I'm on a budget. I want to build it up with bullhorns/aero bars, for a real TT set up, but fixed. Hopefully I'll get to take it to the track some time.

Other issue: 650 wheels. Other than those two requirements, I'm open to suggestions. (Budget)

I sold my aero bars last week, just in time to get a bike that requires them. Figures.

Here is the frame.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs740.snc4/64083_1646746650886_1303513434_31747948_838695_n.jpg

I just friggin cracked the frame. I tightened one of the seatpost bolts (not over tight, it was relatively loose) and the frame cracked. What the eff.

DAMN that sucks. Hang it on the wall?

Good news. The part that cracked is basically an aero fairing. Should be perfectly safe. There's an internal sleeve where the actual seatpost slides into.

Cracks will grow though, just keep an eye on it.

Cracks will grow though, just keep an eye on it.

you may be able to keep it from growing by drilling a small circular hole at the very end.

you may be able to keep it from growing by drilling a small circular hole at the very end.

Possible, but doesn't always work.

Best way is craigslist. Finding 650CC wheels that aren't "tarcky" are a bit harder, but you can get a bunch of HED3 650C wheels for the track, or other similar types for $400 a wheelset.

It'd be easier to know what your budget is.

DA 7710 w/ chainring & bb can usually be found on CL for $200...

Stem, Bars are usually cheap...

is it just me or are those "track ends" awfully short?

is it just me or are those "track ends" awfully short?

Yes, because that is really not a track frame, but a road TT frame. The reason for the "track ends" is to permit positioning the wheel very close to the seat tube and to have extremely short chain stays. Note that there is a rear derailleur hanger, cable stop under the right chainstay and even appears to have provisions for a front derailleur hanger. The rear wheel spacing is probably 130mm for a geared wheel. Compare this to a frame like that used on the Cervelo P2:

http://www.cervelo.com/en_us/bikes/2010/P2/

is it just me or are those "track ends" awfully short?

That was my thought. Those are not really track ends, it is just a horizonal drop out. You are not going to get the adjustment you need with those, and are not going to be able to change your gearing.

There is enough room to sit a wheel in with any gearing he chooses. The issue will come when changing gearings, it will almost always require a change in chain length.

I'm aware that it's not designed to be a track bike. The drop outs should do the trick though, and I don't plan to change gears on it much once I get it situated.

I got some bars today, red fizik tape. I'm really digging this bike.

Oh, and because of how the seatpost clamps, there's already a hole at the end of the crack :)

-A friend mentioned that the aluminum fork could be a safety hazard for track racing. Something about it not being able to withstand forces from the banks? Any opinions on that?

I don't see a fork. ;-0

I suppose any aluminum or carbon fork will have a shorter life span than steel. Is it one of those thin aero forks? Track forks do need to be fairly thick to withstand very strong lateral forces. Many of them have round tubing. I don't know what your fork is, but I'm thinking a tri fork would have design parameters in the oppostite direction of a track fork.

Yep, it's a thin, aero, aluminum fork. Even if safe I'm sure it rides like crap.

It's a Tiemeyer-made GT, which would generally classify it as a totally badass bike, but unfortunately, in this case, I think you'll be better suited tracking down a real track bike for cheap, rather than trying to jury rig this thing.

I concur with bonechilling.

from the shallow dropouts alone, I dont know if all gear combinations will work... and even if you find one combination that works, racing generally calls for a few gearings, depending on which event you're doing.

then you'll have to deal with finding 650 wheels, deal with possible pedal strike from lower bb height, etc etc.

although the frame itself might have been a bargain, the hoops you might have to jump through to make it work on the track will probably:
A) be a real pain in the ass
B) could negate whatever "savings" you got from the frame.

that being said, it's a rather dope frame, but it probably has a better life suited as something other than a track bike...

I guess it won't be optimal for track racing then. I'm still gonna be it up fixed, just for riding around if not racing. The frame was gifted to me, fwiw.

Probably a good idea. You might be able to do some practice days on the track, but it woudl take a lot to make it race ready. That fork won't have the lateral stiffness you would want in a track bike.


I guess it won't be optimal for track racing then. I'm still gonna be it up fixed, just for riding around if not racing. The frame was gifted to me, fwiw.