Foo - Skweeky Brakes - Driving Rube' insane!

Or should I say "insanER"? Anyway, these pads are driving me crazy. It sounds like a wild animal that just received a mortal wound and it's about to die. Pedestrian 6 lanes away jump in the air when I stop at a red light. Is as bad as it can get.

It started when I changed the pads some months ago... I kept saying to myself, it's because they are new, once they wear out they'll be normal. But that never happened. It's been a few months with 60 miles round trips to the office and it's sounding louder every day.

I tried one of those "paints" that you spray on teh back of the pad. It reduced the sound by half, for a week or 2. Then it came right back.

From the failed Anti-Skweeky experiment, it seems clear that the sound is being generated between the pad and the caliper. There's no shim, it rusted away years ago...

Internet searches about the topic have left me more confused. IMHO I think I should just get a different brand of pad and try them out. After all, the ones I got were the cheapest of the cheapest, Valuecraft, at 12.99 the set.

Any Pad recommendations?

Kool Stop Salmon pads.

I think you can retrofit those onto your Hyundai.

Don't used WD40 to help stop the noise.

Or should I say "insanER"? Anyway, these pads are driving me crazy. It sounds like a wild animal that just received a mortal wound and it's about to die. Pedestrian 6 lanes away jump in the air when I stop at a red light. Is as bad as it can get.

It started when I changed the pads some months ago... I kept saying to myself, it's because they are new, once they wear out they'll be normal. But that never happened. It's been a few months with 60 miles round trips to the office and it's sounding louder every day.

I tried one of those "paints" that you spray on teh back of the pad. It reduced the sound by half, for a week or 2. Then it came right back.

From the failed Anti-Skweeky experiment, it seems clear that the sound is being generated between the pad and the caliper. There's no shim, it rusted away years ago...

Internet searches about the topic have left me more confused. IMHO I think I should just get a different brand of pad and try them out. After all, the ones I got were the cheapest of the cheapest, Valuecraft, at 12.99 the set.

Any Pad recommendations?



Why ask a question when you already know the answer?

Better pads that come with the metal shim? :P

Or should I say "insanER"? Anyway, these pads are driving me crazy. It sounds like a wild animal that just received a mortal wound and it's about to die. Pedestrian 6 lanes away jump in the air when I stop at a red light. Is as bad as it can get.


This is a safety feature built into your Hyundai, obviously.

Because this is RUBEN, did you even put the pads on?

inivite siu over to stab your brakes.

OOo! My pleasure! I got a new knife yesterday!! :D

OOo! My pleasure! I got a new knife yesterday!! :D

*facepalm*

*waits patiently for next post-stab-wound thread*

Heh. Those shims are there for a reason. I have helped so many people with brake jobs and they think those shims, retainer clips, and tentioners are just "extra parts."

Did you clean the area with brake cleaner?

Did you put the greasy goup on the back of the pads?

Are you sure you didn't leave a body part in there somewhere?

Why ask a question when you already know the answer?

:(


Better pads that come with the metal shim? :P

I'm hoping ... I got the feeling that will be the key


Because this is RUBEN, did you even put the pads on?

Yes... I'm sure, they are there. :D


Heh. Those shims are there for a reason. I have helped so many people with brake jobs and they think those shims, retainer clips, and tentioners are just "extra parts."

Did you clean the area with brake cleaner?

Did you put the greasy goup on the back of the pads?

Are you sure you didn't leave a body part in there somewhere?

Break Cleaner, yes, it was used generously.

I don't know what's the greasy goup.

No body parts were left there... I've disassemble/re-assemble the whole thing quite a few times after the brake job, to change the strut, again to change the lower ball joint, again for the upper ball joint... By now I should be able to change the pads in like 15 minutes flat, with eyes closed.

:(



I'm hoping ... I got the feeling that will be the key



Yes... I'm sure, they are there. :D



Break Cleaner, yes, it was used generously.

I don't know what's the greasy goup.

No body parts were left there... I've disassemble/re-assemble the whole thing quite a few times after the brake job, to change the strut, again to change the lower ball joint, again for the upper ball joint... By now I should be able to change the pads in like 15 minutes flat, with eyes closed.

That time does not include shim installation. :p

That time does not include shim installation. :p

Now I'm getting this crazy idea of visiting a local machine shop and making my own shims with a plasma cutter...

I take it this is a single-piston one-sided caliper that slides on a pin for centering? Here's what you do:

1. go down to your local autp-parts dealer and pick up a package of "Permatex Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube Synthetic Brake Lubricant".

2. take your brakes apart and grease all the sliding pins with this stuff

3. take your new pads and grind a 45-degree bevel on the leading edge (leading relative to the rotor-rotation, not car's direction of travel)

4. install anti-squeak shims with some of the special grease between the shims and pads AND between the shims and caliper piston

5. re-install brakes

6. take for test-drive


BTW - did you resurface rotors?

I take it this is a single-piston one-sided caliper that slides on a pin for centering? Here's what you do:

1. go down to your local autp-parts dealer and pick up a package of "Permatex Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube Synthetic Brake Lubricant".

2. take your brakes apart and grease all the sliding pins with this stuff

3. take your new pads and grind a 45-degree bevel on the leading edge (leading relative to the rotor-rotation, not car's direction of travel)

4. install anti-squeak shims with some of the special grease between the shims and pads AND between the shims and caliper piston

5. re-install brakes

6. take for test-drive


BTW - did you resurface rotors?

Will do...

Rotors are new. I installed them same day I installed the new pads.

Will do...

Rotors are new. I installed them same day I installed the new pads.

did you remove/clean the protective film/coating off of the rotor surface?

did you remove/clean the protective film/coating off of the rotor surface?

Yup... did that...

I went to the shop to get the shims but they had no shims by themselves for my car. Tried 3 different shops, no shims. They only carried some cheapo generic shim pads that are like 5x9, rectangular, and you are supposed to cut into shape. Rube no likey... so I got a set of new pads that came with the shims... ceramic pads, "wearever" brand.

The shims seem very good, metal shims sandwiched by rubber. They came glued to the pads so I used those instead. Cleaned all parts, changed the pads, put the grease thingy as suggested and took it for a test drive. I did various stops at different speeds and different intensities and so far, NO SQWEEKY! \o/ yay!

However, it is not stopping as hard as it was with the semi-metallic pads. Still plenty of stopping power, but just not as strong.

And I did noticed something else too... when I press on the pedal, it goes to where it starts stopping and gets gets hard (sorry, don't know how else to say it), but as you keep pressing on it, the pedal keeps going down, slowly. I verified all lines, there is no brake fluid leak whatsoever, and the canister thingy is full to specification. Just feels kinda weird that if you press the pedal down, it will keep going down slowly after getting hard.

Bleed the brake lines. There be air in them. Might be a good idea to flush the all the fluid.

However, it is not stopping as hard as it was with the semi-metallic pads. Still plenty of stopping power, but just not as strong.

And I did noticed something else too... when I press on the pedal, it goes to where it starts stopping and gets gets hard (sorry, don't know how else to say it), but as you keep pressing on it, the pedal keeps going down, slowly. I verified all lines, there is no brake fluid leak whatsoever, and the canister thingy is full to specification. Just feels kinda weird that if you press the pedal down, it will keep going down slowly after getting hard.Yeah, semi-metallic pads are harder and generates more friction (eats through rotors faster too), so you'll typically have better "bite" out of them. That's fine, you just have to press slightly harder with other pads.

As for the pedal sinking, sounds like master-cylinder needs replacement/rebuilding. Might as well try bleeding the fluid. I like to install Speed Bleeders (http://www.speedbleeder.com) on all my brakes. Makes bleeding them quick and effortless!

I had the master cylinder crack on my 89 civic (RIP) once upon a time. Braking was... hairy until I got it fixed, to say the least.