Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - Recommend me Bombproof Gear

I have a Kilo TT.
I bike 20 miles round trip to school every day on rough roads.
I need rims and tires that can take more abuse than the stock ones.
I've been getting flats recently.
I'm a college student so I don't have much to spend, but since this is my primary mode of transportation to school I would like something that's going to last.
I couldn't care less about appearances.

I've heard B43 rims are good, but they are expensive.

The most important thing I need is a method to stop me from getting another flat and having to walk my bike home, solid rims come second.
Would Gatorskins be my best bet?
I run a front brake and don't skid if that matters at all.

Thank you very much for your time.

Errr any wheel (heck your stock kilo tt wheelset) is bombproof as long as you don't bomb it; get the logic here? Avoid jumping curbs and doing tarck for the ladies.

Yes gatorskin's are a good bet; my streak on my commuter with gatorskins has been a year, working on another half.

I have never tricked and don't jump any curbs.
The roads I ride on are very bad and have potholes and cracks and broken glass everywhere.

Thanks for the advice on the Gatorskins.
They are incredibly expensive though.


Who knows, maybe my current rims are fine, I just cringe every time I accidentally hit a pothole (can't avoid them all).
My primary focus is on stopping flats, I should have made that more clear in my first post.

If you aren't concerned with weight (even a little bit) you could try WTB thickslicks. They're supposed to be pretty rugged and they're cheaper than gatorskins.

Whatever you decide is affordable for tires (I've run Gatorskins with 0 flats going on 2 years now), you should consider getting some tire liners. Gatorskins and Tire Liners should give you essentially puncture-proof tires.

I'm guessing if you want **** to last, you gotta cash the money. Of course there are alternatives? But they probably won't last as long.

Although I'm sure you don't have to get b43's though if you want to stop cringing over potholes

The most important thing I need is a method to stop me from getting another flat and having to walk my bike home, solid rims come second.


The aforementioned tires/liners and also carry an extra tube and one of these just in case:

http://www.treefortbikes.com/images/raw/UltraflatePlus-7.jpg

It works with threaded and unthreaded cartridges, schrader and presta, will inflate to 120 psi, and is trigger controllable.

bomb proof gear
http://dvice.com/assets_c/2010/03/blast-resistant-clothing3%5B1%5D-thumb-330xauto-35015.gif

Thickslicks or Serfas Seca tires have done me well. Serfas Secas are not too expensive and have mine have stood up to many hazards.

The downside of the stock Kilo TT wheels (mine at least) is that they are heavy. Not that they are weak. Good tires and proper air pressure should fix your problems.

For grins, what tires and PSI are you running now?

Although I'm sure you don't have to get b43's though if you want to stop cringing over potholes

Lol his sure gonna cringe when he runs over a pothole with a b43 as it's gonna hurt his rump not to mention the how much he paid for them in the first place. :rolleyes: :roflmao2:

Oh, and did I mention b43's are worth their weight in gold to bike thieves on college campuses. Better get that new york chain lock aswell as I'm pretty sure any b43 will pop out of the crowd no matter how to try to lock up your bike to campus junker bikes.

For rough roads, get the widest tire you can fit in your frame. Run 32s or even 35s if you can. Although I have a feeling a Kilo TT can't accept anything nearly that wide.

Are you getting pinch flats? Make sure your tires are inflated properly. It'll give a harsher ride but save you from getting flats. Also, if you run too low a pressure your tire can deflect enough that your rim will hit the pavement. Your rims won't last long if this happens regularly.

For bombproof rims, get something with a high spoke count. 36 or even 40 spokes per wheel if they really get beat up. And get a beefy double wall rim. It'll be heavy but worth it if it stays straight.

I have a Kilo TT.
I bike 20 miles round trip to school every day on rough roads.
I need rims and tires that can take more abuse than the stock ones.
I've been getting flats recently.
I'm a college student so I don't have much to spend, but since this is my primary mode of transportation to school I would like something that's going to last.
I couldn't care less about appearances.

I've heard B43 rims are good, but they are expensive.

The most important thing I need is a method to stop me from getting another flat and having to walk my bike home, solid rims come second.
Would Gatorskins be my best bet?
I run a front brake and don't skid if that matters at all.

Thank you very much for your time.

It's like an e.e. cummings poem.

Sounds like you'd be good with a set of DP18s and decent tires. Some people like to talk smack on Weinmanns but I weigh in at just over 200lbs, the roads around here are crap and my DP18s have served me incredibly well.

Gatorskins are great but tend to be somewhat slippery on wet surfaces. I've had a set of Panaracer Pasela TGs for a year now, have only had one flat (my fault - pinch flat from riding with not enough psi) and they're amazing wet or dry.

+10 on the Pasela TG. I've got them on 3 different bikes, 700 x 35c, 27 x 1-1/8 and 26 x 1.5, and zero flats to date on roads with glass, potholes and metal debris. I've got the folding version which is lighter but more expensive. Very easy rolling even at relatively low pressures. However, if you want the ultimate in puncture protection, get the Ribmo. Oh, and I agree with the advice to get the widest size you can stuff in your frame.

After all, when we upgrade our frames and components, what are we really paying for? We're paying for different colors and different names. Take the fixed-gear rider who purchases a $480 Mercier Kilo TT Pro from Bikesdirect (http://bikesdirect.com/products/mercier/kilott_pro.htm#specs):

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_wb8bAl1P-N0/SbACBdEF-9I/AAAAAAAAGYk/UVdaf6NDDR4/s400/mercier.bmp (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_wb8bAl1P-N0/SbACBdEF-9I/AAAAAAAAGYk/UVdaf6NDDR4/s1600-h/mercier.bmp)
Well, any "hardcore" cyclist can see that this bike needs some upgrades. First of all, you need some decent pedals, clips, and straps to use with your tattered sneakers. That's at least $50.

Also, that headset's probably got loose bearings. Sure, it might be serviceable, and in theory it will last a long time, but if you're going to be riding around on the streets (without a fender) you really need something "bulletproof." The "experts" on the various bike forums will doubtless vouch for the cost-effectiveness of this upgrade. Plus, as a bonus, "bulletproof" headsets come in a wide range of colors, and you're already a little self-conscious about riding an out-of-the-box bike. So you upgrade the headset.

Cost: $120

Next, you'll start thinking about those wheels. They're machine-built, and if they haven't been touched up by hand they may be going out of true. A little forum research will probably reveal that those wheels are "crap," and that they should be upgraded. Makes sense--after all, they were right about the headset. So you do it, but you only have enough money for the rear right now. First you buy the more expensive, "bulletproof" cartridge bearing rear hub by which everybody swears, and which is obviously way, way better than your current cartridge bearing rear hub:

Cost: $170

Of course, you're not going to put your cheap cog on that hub. Plus, the threading of the "bulletproof" hub is different anyway. So you get a cog and lockring both compatible with and worthy of your "bulletproof" rear hub:

Cost: $80

And it goes without saying you're not going to put that cheap rim on that hub. You're going to get something "bulletproof," and which, as a bonus, is available in colors that match your "bulletproof" headset:

Cost: $65

By the time you've got your spokes and nipples and someone to build it for you figure you've spend around $400. Or $450, since you're going to upgrade your tires too, and there are some cool ones that come in white.

Now that you're ripping around town on your increasingly "bulletproof" bicycle (total cost of bike to date: $1,100) you're starting to realize that drop bars without brake hoods aren't especially comfortable. You're also not going to go "flop and chop" on an increasingly color-coordinated and "bulletproof" bicycle. No, you're thinking you might want to go with some flat bars or risers. Since your "whip" is growing increasingly "tight," you figure you'll spend a little extra on something with some flair (http://www.chariandconyc.com/lino-straighthandlebar.aspx)--and which, happily, is available in a variety of colors to match your increasingly color-coordinated bicycle. And $65 isn't that much to spend on a bar, is it? Crabon bars are way more expensive. This will not only require new bars, but also a new stem, since you've got to dial in your reach. And of course inexpensive aluminum stems fail all the time. You need something "bulletproof" that's "beautifully machined" and will complement your bars.

Cost (bar, stem, and grips): $130

Oh, and around this time you see an almost-new front mag-style wheel on Craigslist for only $200. Your front wheel has been holding up fine, but it doesn't really match your rear. And this wheel matches perfectly. Plus, you figure it's always good to have a spare front at home. Sold.

You've now crossed the fixie rubicon. Your whip is "tight" enough that you're becoming more involved in the "scene," and you're starting to get compliments. However, certain things are starting to bother you. You've got a sweet machined "bulletproof" stem but just a cheap aluminum seatpost. Sure, it's holding your seat in place just fine, but your stem's companion post is just so sexy. By this point you've realized you can't keep paying full retail at bike shops, so you're watching eBay constantly. Finally, you snag a practically new post with "minimal insertion marks" for $50. The money you've saved also justifies the purchase of a new seat, since the idea of clamping that cheap stock piece of foam on your sexy new post has secretly been driving you crazy. You manage to get a vintage used Italian saddle for only $45, as full of soul as it is of a stranger's ass sweat.

Cost (post, saddle, shipping): $100

Around this time, you find yourself shopping for a new chainring since you need to be able to change your gearing and sometimes you want to change chainrings instead of cogs. Chainrings are relatively inexpensive, so you don't feel guilty about it. But you start to realize that there aren't quite as many 1/8" chainring options for your 130bcd cranks as there are for 144bcd cranks. And anyway, you've got a pretty nice track bike now--shouldn't it run the track standard? Plus, a new crank is an investment in the future, since when you wear out your chainrings you'll have a much wider selection next time you go chainring shopping. Oh, and it has to match your "bulletproof" anodized componentry:

Cost: $300

By now the total cost of your Bikesdirect fixed-gear is $1,830. This figure does not include the money you've also spent on a bag, and on hats, and on clothing. And it's really bothering you--not because you've somehow quadrupled the price of your bicycle in three months, but because you've now got all this great "bulletproof" componentry on a "cheap" frame. At this point, if you just move all that stuff over wholesale to a "better" frame, you'll really have yourself a nice bike. A bike you can be proud of, and which will serve as a flag to the "scene" that you're on the premises when it's locked up outside the bar. So you spend $1,500 on a new steel frame and fork.

You've now spent $3,300 for a $480 bike. Sure, it's a different color now and it's got a different decal on the downtube, but philosophically speaking it's the same bike. Yet you don't realize this--until it gets stolen from the front of the bar because you locked it to a chainlink fence with your u-lock.

If you're lucky, you kept most of those old parts as well as your old frame and you can cobble a "new" bike together--which is actually your "old" bike, but which of course cost you $3,300. Or, if you're unlucky, you'll go through the whole process again and by the end of the year end up having spent $6,600. (You can't go back to "cheap" bikes now that you know what "quality" is.)

So really, "upgrading" isn't upgrading at all--it's inflation. It might take you years to spend $100,000 on a bicycle, but don't worry, you'll get there. Since you're really just buying looks and status anyway, so you might as well get it over with.

-bikesnobnyc

After all, when we upgrade our frames and components, what are we really paying for? We're paying for different colors and different names. Take the fixed-gear rider who purchases a $480 Mercier Kilo TT Pro from Bikesdirect (http://bikesdirect.com/products/mercier/kilott_pro.htm#specs):

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_wb8bAl1P-N0/SbACBdEF-9I/AAAAAAAAGYk/UVdaf6NDDR4/s400/mercier.bmp (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_wb8bAl1P-N0/SbACBdEF-9I/AAAAAAAAGYk/UVdaf6NDDR4/s1600-h/mercier.bmp)
Well, any "hardcore" cyclist can see that this bike needs some upgrades. First of all, you need some decent pedals, clips, and straps to use with your tattered sneakers. That's at least $50.

Also, that headset's probably got loose bearings. Sure, it might be serviceable, and in theory it will last a long time, but if you're going to be riding around on the streets (without a fender) you really need something "bulletproof." The "experts" on the various bike forums will doubtless vouch for the cost-effectiveness of this upgrade. Plus, as a bonus, "bulletproof" headsets come in a wide range of colors, and you're already a little self-conscious about riding an out-of-the-box bike. So you upgrade the headset.

Cost: $120

Next, you'll start thinking about those wheels. They're machine-built, and if they haven't been touched up by hand they may be going out of true. A little forum research will probably reveal that those wheels are "crap," and that they should be upgraded. Makes sense--after all, they were right about the headset. So you do it, but you only have enough money for the rear right now. First you buy the more expensive, "bulletproof" cartridge bearing rear hub by which everybody swears, and which is obviously way, way better than your current cartridge bearing rear hub:

Cost: $170

Of course, you're not going to put your cheap cog on that hub. Plus, the threading of the "bulletproof" hub is different anyway. So you get a cog and lockring both compatible with and worthy of your "bulletproof" rear hub:

Cost: $80

And it goes without saying you're not going to put that cheap rim on that hub. You're going to get something "bulletproof," and which, as a bonus, is available in colors that match your "bulletproof" headset:

Cost: $65

By the time you've got your spokes and nipples and someone to build it for you figure you've spend around $400. Or $450, since you're going to upgrade your tires too, and there are some cool ones that come in white.

Now that you're ripping around town on your increasingly "bulletproof" bicycle (total cost of bike to date: $1,100) you're starting to realize that drop bars without brake hoods aren't especially comfortable. You're also not going to go "flop and chop" on an increasingly color-coordinated and "bulletproof" bicycle. No, you're thinking you might want to go with some flat bars or risers. Since your "whip" is growing increasingly "tight," you figure you'll spend a little extra on something with some flair (http://www.chariandconyc.com/lino-straighthandlebar.aspx)--and which, happily, is available in a variety of colors to match your increasingly color-coordinated bicycle. And $65 isn't that much to spend on a bar, is it? Crabon bars are way more expensive. This will not only require new bars, but also a new stem, since you've got to dial in your reach. And of course inexpensive aluminum stems fail all the time. You need something "bulletproof" that's "beautifully machined" and will complement your bars.

Cost (bar, stem, and grips): $130

Oh, and around this time you see an almost-new front mag-style wheel on Craigslist for only $200. Your front wheel has been holding up fine, but it doesn't really match your rear. And this wheel matches perfectly. Plus, you figure it's always good to have a spare front at home. Sold.

You've now crossed the fixie rubicon. Your whip is "tight" enough that you're becoming more involved in the "scene," and you're starting to get compliments. However, certain things are starting to bother you. You've got a sweet machined "bulletproof" stem but just a cheap aluminum seatpost. Sure, it's holding your seat in place just fine, but your stem's companion post is just so sexy. By this point you've realized you can't keep paying full retail at bike shops, so you're watching eBay constantly. Finally, you snag a practically new post with "minimal insertion marks" for $50. The money you've saved also justifies the purchase of a new seat, since the idea of clamping that cheap stock piece of foam on your sexy new post has secretly been driving you crazy. You manage to get a vintage used Italian saddle for only $45, as full of soul as it is of a stranger's ass sweat.

Cost (post, saddle, shipping): $100

Around this time, you find yourself shopping for a new chainring since you need to be able to change your gearing and sometimes you want to change chainrings instead of cogs. Chainrings are relatively inexpensive, so you don't feel guilty about it. But you start to realize that there aren't quite as many 1/8" chainring options for your 130bcd cranks as there are for 144bcd cranks. And anyway, you've got a pretty nice track bike now--shouldn't it run the track standard? Plus, a new crank is an investment in the future, since when you wear out your chainrings you'll have a much wider selection next time you go chainring shopping. Oh, and it has to match your "bulletproof" anodized componentry:

Cost: $300

By now the total cost of your Bikesdirect fixed-gear is $1,830. This figure does not include the money you've also spent on a bag, and on hats, and on clothing. And it's really bothering you--not because you've somehow quadrupled the price of your bicycle in three months, but because you've now got all this great "bulletproof" componentry on a "cheap" frame. At this point, if you just move all that stuff over wholesale to a "better" frame, you'll really have yourself a nice bike. A bike you can be proud of, and which will serve as a flag to the "scene" that you're on the premises when it's locked up outside the bar. So you spend $1,500 on a new steel frame and fork.

You've now spent $3,300 for a $480 bike. Sure, it's a different color now and it's got a different decal on the downtube, but philosophically speaking it's the same bike. Yet you don't realize this--until it gets stolen from the front of the bar because you locked it to a chainlink fence with your u-lock.

If you're lucky, you kept most of those old parts as well as your old frame and you can cobble a "new" bike together--which is actually your "old" bike, but which of course cost you $3,300. Or, if you're unlucky, you'll go through the whole process again and by the end of the year end up having spent $6,600. (You can't go back to "cheap" bikes now that you know what "quality" is.)

So really, "upgrading" isn't upgrading at all--it's inflation. It might take you years to spend $100,000 on a bicycle, but don't worry, you'll get there. Since you're really just buying looks and status anyway, so you might as well get it over with.

-bikesnobnyc
Damn!

Awesome.

I use my stock kilo tt pro wheelset with Pasela TG, 700x23 in the front, 25 in the back. Proper air pressure = no flat ever.

20 miles is nothing. you should just remember to keep your tires inflated, and check them before and after every ride.

from what i hear the stock tires are crap, but even gatorskins will flat if you forget to pump them up and hit potholes with them.

i'd suggest lights if you ride at night. GOOD lights. magicshine comes to mind.

xkillemallx16, that piece of writing should be published!

That piece of writing is by Bikesnob.

and is reposted anytime anyone wants to upgrade their kilo.

Reading that actually makes me feel bad about my ideas about upgrading parts on my kilo. lol

Hmm, need a new pedal set.. wheels.. tires.. crankset and bb.. still need lights.. fenders.. blah. I'm just going to buy a spaceship to blast alienz.

Well...at least you Kilo guys are a few steps ahead of what BF used to be. The illusion used to be that anybody could turn this:
http://user-agent.org/stuff/images/murray_road_bike_01.jpg

into this:
http://cache1.bigcartel.com/product_images/19635861/levelbike.jpg

for only one of these:
http://www.saycampuslife.com/images/100dollars.jpg

The projects often ended with this:
http://is00.thegumtree.com/image/big/24367560.jpg

and this:
http://www.amerinrio.org/images/Misc%20Fotos/1%20Dollar.jpg

Well...at least you Kilo guys are a few steps ahead of what BF used to be. The TRUTH that anybody could turn this:
http://user-agent.org/stuff/images/murray_road_bike_01.jpg

into this:
http://cache1.bigcartel.com/product_images/19635861/levelbike.jpg

for only one of these:
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q120/cgmarriott/flying-squirrel.jpg

There, I fixed it!

This point was touched on briefly, but it's worth repeating. Flats are gonna happen, so be prepared. Carry a spare tube, patch kit, tire lever or two, wrench to get the wheel off, and inflator of some sort. These things don't weigh a lot, cost a lot, or take up much room. If you are commuting to class I'm sure you are carrying a bag of some sort which these things can be stashed. Getting a more flat resistant tire is a good start, and maybe a tire liner, but you should always carry stuff to change a flat on a ride over say 5 miles or so(or whatever distance you perfer to walk).

4+ yrs on the Alex DA-22s that came on my Steamroller.
Got WTB Slickasaurus 35c & enjoying those....1 flat in 2 yrs, I believe. (piece of glass) & it goes w/out saying that I had a repair kit.

They've been off road many times as well.
Still rockin' underneath my svelte 235# of magnificence.

Thank you very much for all your help everybody.
I think I'll leave the rims how they are, re-tape them and get some new tires.

I genuinely appreciate everybody who tried to help me, thank you very much.
I'll look into all the tires recommended and select which one is best for me.
One of my flats was a pinch flat, the rest weren't. I'll start carrying a tube and my pump around.
I run my tires around 100 psi (what my hand pump can reach).

-bikesnobnyc


xkillemallx16, that piece of writing should be published!

...

MY BAD. whoever the hell wrote it, proves a great point.