Classic & Vintage - Found a Bianchi in a garage sale !

Hello people !

I need info, and I thought that this would ve the good place to seek it, since it is bike-related. Obvious...

I almost found this bicycle by accident in a garage sale, $ 35 CDN, that greenish (ahem... «celeste»)paint, a bit of dirt here and there, ripped stickers and a bit of peeled paint, but in excellent condition overall (the woman who sold it to me told me it was never left out when she was not riding it; I tried it over there, and I was ... impressed !). It was Chrismas time for me in the middle of a hot september day, I was just jumping up and down like a happy toddler. Weird indeed, but then, I'm not afraid of being weird.

Yes, for those who did not understand the cue, it's a men's 12 speed Bianchi.

I need your help to identify it well; this would be quite nice of you. Model, approximate year of production, was it could cost today... so I try to put in as much info as possible, and to the conoisseur, some may be useless, so forgive me in advance if this seems long to you...

1- On right side of the frame, the ripped sticker finishes with d'Italia, in a pinkish tint of red (was it Giro or Campione ? I don't know...)

2- On the descending tube of the frame, the sticker reads clearly: Tre Tubi Rinforzati, Formula Two, Bianchi, (stylized dove logo), CROMO MOLIBDENI, Produzione Columbus. Down the frame, another sticker goes: Made in Italy.

3- Derailleurs: Campagnolo, no mention of a model.

4- Wheels: Hubs have "Touring" engraved in; 36 "rayons" (in French, "spokes", in English ?), and "Ambrosia 19 extra élite" is written on the rim. Another sticker says "Durex" on it. The tires are Michelin Sport Select (700 X 20c), and as I could understand by pushing on a deflated one, they are tubeless.

(It seems like they don't exist anymore... Question to the more knowledgeables: what can the actual replacement tires be for those tires, since I so much fear an evil puncture that could ruin my newfound pleasure...).

5- The "pedalier" (in French, sorry, I don't know the name for that) is a StrongLight, and it is supposed to be made in France. Pedals came with original celeste green leather straps and clips, but I just pulled them out for the moment and keep them in a secure place, feeling yet too uneasy to adjust to clips...

6- Brakes: Modelo Mach I

7- General decoration: celeste green tape on the handles, celeste green saddle, neat green brake cable disposition, "Edoardo Bianchi" on the front of the frame, with the black stylized crowned eagle logo (almost looks like a german eagle).

What I intend to do with that bike:

Just to get acquainted with riding on the road (I'm not new to cycling, since I used to ride a entry-level MTB to commute but I was getting tired of the weight to bring it back home, three flights of stairs is just a bit too much when you get back tired from those long rides), general training, learning the basics of care and maintenance of a fine bicycle (so, weigth gain by replacement of parts is not an issue yet).

What I'm looking forward to:

Joining a non-competitive ride club in the Montreal region next summer, as soon as I'm familiar enough with the basics. Just the pleasure to roll at even speed in a group, sweat a good sweat and meet friendly people.

So I hope someome will react to that post, and bring in precious info to that newbie. Thanks in advance.

Sapolin

Do you think the name of the bike is Edoardo Bianchi or the Giro d'Italia... I think they were both models in the Bianchi lineup at one time. Either way its a GREAT deal that you got, the parts on there sound fairly high end for their time. I think the Edoardo was something like a sub-20lbs bike, and the Giro is not heavy at all either. The all Celeste theme makes me think it was a fairly nice model, since their low end models don't often get to use the "Bianchi color".

Pedalier is called the "crankset" in English. I learned a French word today! :-)

The tyres you have are called "sewups" and they glue onto the rim. The fact you have those shows it was a high end outright racing bike. You can still get them pretty easily but many shops need to special order them. You put special cement on the rim and then put the tire on, inflate it, hang it and let it dry for a period of time. The benefits are less weight since there is no tube and lower rolling resistance. I am pretty positive you cannot run a tube/tire setup on tubular rims (rims that use tubes are called "clinchers", rims that don't are called "tubular"--doesn't make sense, does it?).

Anyways, post some pictures when you can, and someone can probably identify the bike for you a little more accurately.

Thank you so much, Mr. seely !

«Edoardo Bianchi» comes in the front (the portion of the frame in front of the handlebars), over the black eagle logo, and on the right side of the upper tube of the frame (when I'm sitting on the saddle), there is a missing word (scratched sticker) + d'Italia. I'm looking for that missing word... given the lenght of the missing sticker, I would not be surprised that it be a Campione (having read now many threads here about Bianchis)

It is in fact sub-20 lbs, something between 16 and 18 lbs (I carry a massage chair weigthing 18 lbs regularly, and it feels more or less the same to my shoulders and arms).

The girls who sold it to me assured me she bought it for 800 + CDN at the time, and she babysat 2$ an hour to pay for it ... I'm confident it is something near the beginning of the 80's, given the cost of babysitting at the time (I baby sat a bit too in the same period...).

As soon a I get back home and am in a position to do so, I photograph it and up some pictures...

BTW, are you from England ? (it's the way you spell tire = tyre)

Thank you again...

Sapolin

Well, that's an excellent find. The tubulars (sewup tires) are still made. They are a pleasure to ride on, very quick and nimble tires, but a pain to replace and repair. If the wheelset is still solid, I'd keep it; but consider hunting down a set of clincher rims for everyday riding. Not as nice a ride, but a heck of a lot easier to fix (the glue in particular is vile, and the first time you install a tubular, wear old clothes you are about to throw out, as you are pretty much gauranteed to get covered with the glue. Also, buy some "Goo Gone" at your local harware store, it helps to clean off the old cement). You cannot put clincher (standard) tires on a tubular rim (or vice-versa), as Seely suspects. The general setup of the bike sounds excellent; the parts you have described are hi-end.

I'm not a Bianchi expert but a few things I can help out.

"Edoardo Bianchi" was the name of the gentleman that started the company some 100 years ago. His name appears on the headtube of all Bianchis (I believe). "Campione d'Italia" is the model name of your bike. It was not Bianchi's highest line bike but was far from the bottom. $35 Canadian is a tremendous bargain.

"Tretubi reinforzati" means that the 3 main (seat, top and down) tubes of the bikes frame are butted steel. I think triple butted. This is good as it makes for a lighter frame.

Does the word "Columbus" appear on a decal?

A tire company called "Tufo" makes a tape for installing sew-ups. It works quite well and eliminates all of that mess Poguemahone was referring to. Sewups have a great ride but have alot of shortcomings for every day use. The bike is good enough and you got it cheap enough to warrant a wheelset with clincher tires if you want to ride regularly. A shop can set you up with what you need.

Nice find.

:beer:

Too bad the little old ladies around here never took a hankerin' to nice bicycles! Lawnmowers, washin' machines and ceramic niknaks are the order of the day in this part of the world at garage sales!

TysonB

Does the word "Columbus" appear on a decal?


The presence of the dove on the sticker would suggest that these are Columbus tubes.

-mark

Indeed it does. I needed to read the post more carefully.

Definitely a nice bike.

Thanks to all who answered, now I know I've got to save a bit of money for some modifications (namely, the wheels), but it's going to be for next summertime, wich gives me plenty of time to convince the better half (it'a not the same as most of you guys ... we live on a very tight budget...)...

Since then, I'll try to ride it as much as I can to get acquainted with the «road bike sport» position (five years ago, I was in the urban mountain biking trip, because a mountain bike was more comfy in those beaten and bruised asphalt streets ... I can understand my prior choice now... I've got this springtime saddle ache thing, plus, in spite of wearing my trusty old padded gloves, a certain discomfort in the palms of my hands...but it must bet «le métier qui rentre» as we say in French Canadian here(hhhmmmfff... the normal aches of the trade that remind you of something new you did with your body).

I took it out today for a first serious ride (1 hour of warmup here on the local bike path, then, after streching and a drink and piss break home, I rode for a mere 3 hours almost non-stop -except for the time I had to figure out my way on the map-) and the dérailleur needs a bit of adjustment (it is not as responsive as I expected, but does a decent job nonetheless given it did not do anything in the last 3 or so years of its life, indeed a WAYYY better job than the very recent grip-shift shimano on the MTB I rode last Tuesday...)

So that's it, thanks again for your comments and suggestions.

Sapolin

One other thing: depending on the vintage of the stronglight crank, you may need a specialized remover to get it off. Up until the late seventies, stronglight used a 23.35mm crank remover. You cannot use a standard remover on an older stronglight crank! So if you intend to work on the bike, you may have to get this remover-- one is still made by Stein, available through biketoolsetc.com and probably Harris cyclery.

If you post a picture of the bike, I can probably tell if the crank needs a 23.35mm remover.

Have fun, your course sounds a good one.

Poquemahone:«Up until the late seventies, stronglight used a 23.35mm crank remover.»

Thanks for the advice, but I'm pretty sure now that it's a '80's + bicycle... anyway this trouble will be the Chosen One's (the competent bike mech I will choose... he will have to be friendly, talkative and explain a lot of things to me...) next springtime...

I've got a lot to learn indeed... I'm almost starting up from scratch... may have to take up a course on the basics of bike mechanics and maintenance... and don't laugh or scoff at me, I just want to make sure I'm not screwing things off when I lay some tools on this precious thing...

As for new rims (...to be able to use the clincher tires and tubes...), can they be wider (the «20» in «700 X 20c» is the width, isn't it?) ? Will the space between the brakes accomodate wider rims ?

So that's about it...

Sapolin

You typically don't need a much wider rim - clinchers are a little wider, but not much. The brakes can be adjusted in or out quite easily. 20c is the width of the tire. You can go bigger if you want with the same rim. The thing that matters most is the clearance between the tire and the frame.

For learning the mech skills, I'd recommend finding a friend that's knowledgable about bikes and has some tools or even better a shop. You might be able to get work done for beer, plus they would probably show you most of what you need to know. The mechanics forum here is an excellent resource, too.

Sounds like you have a really sweet find there - now where are the pics?

My Bianchi also has a "Tre tubi renforzati," meaning "3 tubes reinforced" (i.e., double-butted) main triangle, which is indeed made of high-grade Columbus CrMo. The difference between these frames and the top-of-the-line Bianchis, such as the Specialissimas, is that the latter also have full seamless Columbus forks and stays. I have been told that the tre tubi frames have seamed CrMo forks and stays, although I am not able to see the seams. (The forks on my Peugeot PKN-10, a comparable mixed-tubeset frame with a Reynolds 531 main triangle, have VERY visible seams on the backs of the blades.)

I doubt that the Stronglight crankset is original, as top-of-the-line Bianchis of that era came with Campag., and the next lower ones came with Ofmegas, which sometimes bore the Bianchi brand marking.

Pics: as soon as I can get back home with the right computer (mine, a Macintosh +iPhoto), the right USB cable to D/L the pics I will have shot with the Canon A40, the right software to resize according to the standard, and the right U/L speed. I just can't stand having to kneel in the dust to plug the camera in this (expletive deleted) PC here, where I'm actually visiting (though there are nice bike paths here), and tooling around the pics with crappy software.

This 'puter is good enough to surf, period.

Sap'

Sapolin,

You can find a lot of info about vintage bicycles from these two websites:

http://www.campyonly.com (they have a Campagnolo timeline and a gallery of retro bicycle pictures)

http://www.classicrendezvous.com/main.htm (they have loads of information, fun place to do some research on pricing, frame builders, and Campagnolo components, etc)

Lastly, regarding your tires. There's nothing wrong with riding on sewups. Yes, they are a pain to fix, but the ride is magical. You'll have to carry a spare with you (which is bulkier than just a spare tube). But this was common practice in the 80's (and earlier). And of course you'll have to learn how to replace one. It's best to practice at home, not in an actual emergency. If the tire is not put on properly, it can roll off the rim. It's not that hard once you've done it a couple of times.

Tubless tires cost about the same as high end clinchers, so the cost differential is not that great.

If your budget allows at some point in the future, you could always pick up a set of clincher wheels, and keep the original sewup wheels for Sunday rides.

There are clubs/groups who ride strictly vintage bikes. They generally ride on weekendss and at an easy/social pace. They also tend to reminese about old bikes and enjoy the ride, not race. There may be such a club or group in your area.

Good luck with your Bianchi.

Ed

It is in fact sub-20 lbs, something between 16 and 18 lbs (I carry a massage chair weigthing 18 lbs regularly, and it feels more or less the same to my shoulders and arms).

You are delusional too.

You are delusional too.

Why is he delusional? Because you've been to his house and weighed the bike so you, and only you, know what it really weighs.

Sydney, I used to just let your comments slide but now you're chasing old threads just to antogonize people.

PJ

My Bianchi also has a "Tre tubi renforzati," meaning "3 tubes reinforced" (i.e., double-butted) main triangle, which is indeed made of high-grade Columbus CrMo. The difference between these frames and the top-of-the-line Bianchis, such as the Specialissimas, is that the latter also have full seamless Columbus forks and stays. I have been told that the tre tubi frames have seamed CrMo forks and stays, although I am not able to see the seams. (The forks on my Peugeot PKN-10, a comparable mixed-tubeset frame with a Reynolds 531 main triangle, have VERY visible seams on the backs of the blades.)

I doubt that the Stronglight crankset is original, as top-of-the-line Bianchis of that era came with Campag., and the next lower ones came with Ofmegas, which sometimes bore the Bianchi brand marking.

The higher end frames of this era (e.g. superleggera , specialissimas ) also have the forks/frames fully chromed although this is only visible at the tops of the seat stays, the right side chain stay, and at the top of the fork crowns. Also these frames have campagnolo dropouts on both the frame and fork. My 1982 superleggera came with a full super record group and cinelli headset. I think it weighs 20.5 lbs, I'll check it at work tomorrow.

The higher end frames of this era (e.g. superleggera , specialissimas ) also have the forks/frames fully chromed although this is only visible at the tops of the seat stays, the right side chain stay, and at the top of the fork crowns. Also these frames have campagnolo dropouts on both the frame and fork. My 1982 superleggera came with a full super record group and cinelli headset. I think it weighs 20.5 lbs, I'll check it at work tomorrow. Mine is about 1.5 lbs / .7kg heavier, mainly because of my clincher tyres, although I suspect my frame outweighs yours slightly, as well.

You can get some "training" tubular tires from Nashbar or Performance. I just put a new set on my Gitane TDF last year- they're Vittoria I think with kevlar reinforcemet and are fairly heavy (for a tubular) for durability. I keep a spare folded under the seat as a spare. you should be able to get 2 with rim cement for less than $50 which should get you on the road. Later you can explore clinchers but this way you don't have to worry about brake clearance or hub width. I've found staying with tubulars to be more cost effective than doing new wheelsets. Good luck and have fun!

Thank you so much, Mr. seely !

«Edoardo Bianchi» comes in the front (the portion of the frame in front of the handlebars), over the black eagle logo, and on the right side of the upper tube of the frame (when I'm sitting on the saddle), there is a missing word (scratched sticker) + d'Italia. I'm looking for that missing word... given the lenght of the missing sticker, I would not be surprised that it be a Campione (having read now many threads here about Bianchis)

It is in fact sub-20 lbs, something between 16 and 18 lbs (I carry a massage chair weigthing 18 lbs regularly, and it feels more or less the same to my shoulders and arms).

The girls who sold it to me assured me she bought it for 800 + CDN at the time, and she babysat 2$ an hour to pay for it ... I'm confident it is something near the beginning of the 80's, given the cost of babysitting at the time (I baby sat a bit too in the same period...).

As soon a I get back home and am in a position to do so, I photograph it and up some pictures...

BTW, are you from England ? (it's the way you spell tire = tyre)

Thank you again...

Sapolin


Brought my 1982 superleggera to the physics dept today and hung it on one of their scales: 22.5 lbs.

This is a 60 cm columbus steel frame/fork and components are stock campy SR except for the rims which are mavic open pro CD w/vittoria open corsa 23 X 700c tires. I bit heavier than I'd thought.

Why is he delusional? Because you've been to his house and weighed the bike so you, and only you, know what it really weighs.

Sydney, I used to just let your comments slide but now you're chasing old threads just to antogonize people.

PJTurns out his bike weighs 22.5 pounds.That's not even close to 16-18. Now tell me about it....OK! . I have enough old steel to know delusional.

I dunno -- if he was previously riding a 40 lb. bike, it's pretty close. I rather think he's being enthusiastic, not delusional.

The LAST reason to buy an old-time steel frame bike is to "obsess" about weight. But, some of the older bikes are lighter than one might expect.

I have an 88ish Trek 660, with Reynolds 531 frame. I took off the racing saddle, put on a heavy padded saddle. Replaced the racing pedals with massive BMX pedals. Added thick gel tape. Took off the racing tires, and put on heavy 28mm training tires. Then, I added a handlebar bag, two headlights and two "blinky" lights in back. After all of that, it still weighs a tad under 24 pounds Quite light enough for a "commuter" bike.

Turns out his bike weighs 22.5 pounds.That's not even close to 16-18. Now tell me about it....OK! . I have enough old steel to know delusional.

Wrong bike weight...that's another guys 60cm Bianchi.

Pj

PJ - sapolin is the poster of both weight comments that El Cid responded to. Personally, I would stop short of calling someone delusional, but it appears he was correct. Under 25 pounds is quite light for 70's steel. Under 20 is almost unheard of for a geared bike of the era.

Maybe I missed something but I thought TonyT was the poster about the 60cm machine at 22.5 lbs.

If I was mistaken I apologize for continuing back there.

I agree, as you can tell from my first post, that calling someone delusional is a little over the top.

I also agree that sub 25 is light but under 20 isn't unheard of, although very rare indeed.

PJ

Hey guys, the originator of this thread hasn't posted since October. So it's probably all a moot point.

:-)

PS A classic steel lightweight (high quality lugged frame & fork) in medium size and with decent components will weigh in at approximately 20 to 23 lbs. A 16-18 lb bike from that era is highly unlikely.

Hey guys, the originator of this thread hasn't posted since October. So it's probably all a moot point.

:-)

PS A classic steel lightweight (high quality lugged frame & fork) in medium size and with decent components will weigh in at approximately 20 to 23 lbs. A 16-18 lb bike from that era is highly unlikely. Well D'oh ?? Guess you get the Zombie award for dredging up old dead threads...EH?

Well D'oh ?? Guess you get the Zombie award for dredging up old dead threads...EH?

Sydney, I've been holding off but thanks for all the negative threads you post. In the the past you have claimed to be be a "SCIENTIST" , what are your qualifications? Have you ever been employled as a mechanic (bike or other wise)? Any experience in metalurgy? Inquiring minds want to know, as you seem to know it all!!!

......Sydney......... In the the past you have claimed to be be a "SCIENTIST" , what are your qualifications? Maybe you neglected to turn the comprehension switch to the on position? Sydney makes no claims , but qualifications must remain confidential.

I have an 88ish Trek 660, with Reynolds 531 frame. I took off the racing saddle, put on a heavy padded saddle. Replaced the racing pedals with massive BMX pedals. Added thick gel tape. Took off the racing tires, and put on heavy 28mm training tires. Then, I added a handlebar bag, two headlights and two "blinky" lights in back. After all of that, it still weighs a tad under 24 pounds

I think if I saw my scale display that number after doing the additions you listed, I would consider getting it recalibrated.

Thanks to all who answered, now I know I've got to save a bit of money for some modifications (namely, the wheels), but it's going to be for next summertime, wich gives me plenty of time to convince the better half (it'a not the same as most of you guys ... we live on a very tight budget...)...


Tubular wheels are nice!!! If you don't want them send them to me.
Besides, the new wheels won't take a 6-speed freewheel. Don't let
people scare you away from tubulars. I just bought a pair of trainers
for under $30 on eBay last night. A tube or two of glue adds another $7-8.
With clinchers you need tires, tubes and rim strips.

Either way, great find!!! I'm am happy and jealous at the same time.

Maybe you neglected to turn the comprehension switch to the on position? Sydney makes no claims , but qualifications must remain confidential.

He's not a real scientist; he just plays one on the internet. ;) :)

He's not a real scientist; he just plays one on the internet. ;) :)And sydney thanks Al Gore for the opportunity.

D*Alex?

You are delusional too.

O.K. here are some examples of sub 19lb steel bianchis from the 1980s

http://bulgier.net/pics/bike/Catalogs/bianchi3/8.jpg

http://bulgier.net/pics/bike/Catalogs/Bianchi-81/pg4.jpg

Is that with the water bottle filled or not :0)

O.K. here are some examples of sub 19lb steel bianchis from the 1980s

http://bulgier.net/pics/bike/Catalogs/bianchi3/8.jpg

http://bulgier.net/pics/bike/Catalogs/Bianchi-81/pg4.jpgAnyone say it wasn't possible. My comment was in the context of the biked as described.But do you believe 80s advertizing hype any more than the current barnyard waste? I also have bikes made out of the same tubing,and know where the starting point is.

I have been reading this exchange with interest -- and in particular the comments regarding Tubulars/Wired On. I think that someone mentioned that once punctured it is necessary to put a new tub . Quite right, but what no-one seems to have said is that a repair is not really a side the road job. OK so you have a spare to use but what will you do if the fates are against you and you puncture again just now the road. I used tubs during my competion career but for "normal" use - including training - I always opted for light wired-on's. A twenty miles walk home is not something to consider lightly!!!! Enjoy your new machine and Good Riding David le Breton

I have been reading this exchange with interest -- and in particular the comments regarding Tubulars/Wired On. I think that someone mentioned that once punctured it is necessary to put a new tub . Quite right, but what no-one seems to have said is that a repair is not really a side the road job. OK so you have a spare to use but what will you do if the fates are against you and you puncture again just now the road. I used tubs during my competion career but for "normal" use - including training - I always opted for light wired-on's. A twenty miles walk home is not something to consider lightly!!!! Enjoy your new machine and Good Riding David le Breton

Well, you can't always be prepared for everything that will happen. First off, you borrow the spare from the friend that you should be riding with. If he's on clinchers or you're out alone, you can use your cell phone to call to a friend or family member to come and pick you up. In the old days, we'd simply go to the nearest house and ask if we could use their phone. In general, strangers will be sympathetic and helpful to cyclists in need of assistance, provided you are polite and courteous.

Even if you carry a cell phone, you should always be riding with a partner, if you go out of town. Cyclists tend to favour the back roads, where traffic is less frequent. Should you or your bicycle become disabled for any reason, the there might not be a bypassers for quite a while and a house might not be nearby. The cell phone might not work in the area you're in. The above is especially true if you are mountain biking on the trails. A riding partner can always go for help.

The above is especially true if you are mountain biking on the trails. A riding partner can always go for help.Assuming he does not bet eaten by a bear or mountain lion.

Assuming he does not bet eaten by a bear or mountain lion.

Always the optimist, aren't you sydney? :rolleyes:

Sometimes, things happen that you can't plan for. This New Year's day, I got two flats (on new tubes) with clinchers. One about a mile into the ride, another about 8 miles later. By the time I had the 2nd flat, I was alone, and ended up walking 7 miles before I was able to get a ride.

Fortunately, I was able to use my bicycle as a shield, and employed my mad martial arts skills to fight off all the bears and wolves that were pursuing me. :p

I think that someone mentioned that once punctured it is necessary to put a new tub . Quite right, but what no-one seems to have said is that a repair is not really a side the road job. OK so you have a spare to use but what will you do if the fates are against you and you puncture again just now the road.

Inconvenient to say the least, but not altogether a ride-ender. Velox makes a tubular repair kit that includes needle and thread, along with the patch & glue. I have done many tubular repairs that did not take very long. Fortunately never had to do it on a roadside, but if I had to I know I could do it.

I have a bianchi Tipo Corsa from 82' and it weighs 16lbs

Holy freekin' old post bump Batman!

-Kurt

Always remember boys and girls; graverobbing is wrong.

And sydney thanks Al Gore for the opportunity.

LOL, and they both thank Ted stevens for making sure the series of tubes stay clear :roflmao2:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s84CwjsSHhs

Who...Zombie thread:eek:

geez. A Sydney thread. He had the gift...