Bicycle Mechanics - How do you get the ends to meet up when replacing a chain?

I have replaced the chain on two of my bikes and I have a really hard time getting both ends of the new chain in the chain tool to connect them because the rear deraillure is pulling on the chain.

Is there a trick to doing this?

make sure you sized the chain correctly. perhaps you broke the chain too short.

and I use masterlinks.

Unhook the chain from the chainrings in front and rest it on the outside of the bottom-bracket shell.

take the chain off the chainring, drop it onto the BB. connect the chain and put it back on the chainring.

I go with the master links. Easy to remove for cleaning.

This:


Unhook the chain from the chainrings in front and rest it on the outside of the bottom-bracket shell.




take the chain off the chainring, drop it onto the BB. connect the chain and put it back on the chainring.

also you can make a tool that hooks the derailleur cage and a chainring bolt from a spoke. i personally just drop the chain on the bb

Seems like the BB thing is the trick. So simple too.... can't believe it didn't occur to me.

Thanks.

On a coaster brake, SS/FG, or IGH, I don't completely run the chain around the chainring. I leave the chain off the bottom, join the ends, pin it, the let the chain ride back onto the chainring by turning the cranks.

I made up a little "tool" from a piece of coat hanger wire. It's a shallow, wide U-shape with the upper tips of the legs bent inward. You hook it to each end of the chain far enough back so the open ends overlap in the middle. That gives you the slack to insert the master link or joining pin.

The advantage of this tool over dropping the chain onto the bb shell is that you can turn the cranks slightly back and forth to be sure the chain is routed correctly before you join it. Ever fully installed a chain only to discover you ran it outside one of the rear derailleur tabs? With a master link it's only a nuisance. With a joining pin it's a real hassle. Guess how I know about this? :)

Ever fully installed a chain only to discover you ran it outside one of the rear derailleur tabs?

Yes! When I make this mistake, I usually disassemble the derailer and run it through. Then it's just a little annoying to screw the pulleys back on.

and I use masterlinks.

This.

Remove the rear wheel or strap the derailleur cage near the chainstay.

I'm with Hillrider on this, sacrificed a coathanger. Mine looks more like a big Vee. Use it taking the chain apart and putting together. This way you don't get lube on the BB or scratch it. The ends of the chain don't fly away if you let go. You can buy the same device at the store if you don't have a wire coathanger.

I made up a little "tool" from a piece of coat hanger wire. It's a shallow, wide U-shape with the upper tips of the legs bent inward. You hook it to each end of the chain far enough back so the open ends overlap in the middle. That gives you the slack to insert the master link or joining pin.


+1 I do this myself. If you can't find metal coat hangers - check your local metal yard.

Park makes a relatively inexpensive tool to pull the chain ends together. I use one and master links. Works like a charm.:thumb:

what tool is that?

I do not have it in hand to check the number, but it looks like a pair of pliers--you could probably check Park's website and find it.

I just went to Park's site and found it--MLP-1.

I made up a little "tool" from a piece of coat hanger wire. It's a shallow, wide U-shape with the upper tips of the legs bent inward. You hook it to each end of the chain far enough back so the open ends overlap in the middle. That gives you the slack to insert the master link or joining pin.


Mine is made from a 14 ga spoke.

what tool is that?
Not the Park tool, but certainly up to the task. Whether you buy this or make your own, it's definitely one of the most used tools for those who do their own maintenance.
http://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cgi?id=19038843687&d=single&c=Tools&sc=Chain&tc=Chain-Compressor&item_id=YC-207

That is the most useless tool ever made. You don't need anything like that. First cut the chain to the right size with it on the front big chainring. Then take it of the front chainring. Not on the inside at the BB but the outside so you don't destroy your paint. just leave it hanging on your front derailleur. Join the chain using whatever method you want and put the chain back on the front chainring.

That tool is is for finding a solution to a problem that doesn't exist.

Another thing that helps is to not push the pin all the way out. Leave about 0.5mm of it protruding inside the plate. That way, you can snap the chain back together and it'll stay together while you fumble with the chain-pin tool

Just use a master link. They're fairly cheap and you can get multiple uses out of them.

Home-made wire gizmo works for me.
When installing a Master Link has anyone else chopped their chain at the wrong type of link. You need an "innie" at both ends.

Another thing that helps is to not push the pin all the way out. Leave about 0.5mm of it protruding inside the plate. That way, you can snap the chain back together and it'll stay together while you fumble with the chain-pin tool


+ 1

That is the most useless tool ever made. ...

That tool is is for finding a solution to a problem that doesn't exist.

Well arn't you special that you don't need the tool? Obviously this kind of thing is useful for some people, myself included.

A mechanic pointed me to a version of this tool using a spring from a u-brake (from a cheap department store bike). Other people have pointed out that a bent coat hanger and possibly a big paper clip could work in a pinch.

Mine is made from a 14 ga spoke.

That's really cool. I have a rusted steel wheel I need to get rid of so I am going to do that with one of the spokes. I know its the same as a coat hanger but I like the idea of using bike parts to make bike tools. Very bikie :thumb:

Another thing that helps is to not push the pin all the way out. Leave about 0.5mm of it protruding inside the plate. That way, you can snap the chain back together and it'll stay together while you fumble with the chain-pin tool
Only works on older chains where you can reuse the original pin. For new chains you need to completely remove the original pin and replace it with a specific joining pin or a master link. You can't do either if the original pin is in the way.

Note to ecoracer: the "tool" isn't useless. As I also wrote, it lets you check that the chain is properly routed before joining the ends.

Only works on older chains where you can reuse the original pin. For new chains you need to completely remove the original pin and replace it with a specific joining pin or a master link. You can't do either if the original pin is in the way.

Note to ecoracer: the "tool" isn't useless. As I also wrote, it lets you check that the chain is properly routed before joining the ends.

Along the same lines, it's handy when you're building up a single speed, fixed, or IGH bike and you want to dial in the chainline.

Get a 4-5" piece of coat hanger, bend about 1/2" at each end into a hook.

Hook the chain at each end of the bent wire, about 3-4 links from the ends.

Join the chain however you want. It'll be REALLY easy.

Get a 4-5" piece of coat hanger, bend about 1/2" at each end into a hook.

Hook the chain at each end of the bent wire, about 3-4 links from the ends.

Join the chain however you want. It'll be REALLY easy.
That's exactly the "tool" a couple of us have described. The reason for the shallow U-bend is to keep the wire away from the chain when you join the ends and leave you room for the chain tool or to join the halves of the master link. And, yes, it does make joining the chain easy.

Well arn't you special that you don't need the tool? Obviously this kind of thing is useful for some people, myself included.

A mechanic pointed me to a version of this tool using a spring from a u-brake (from a cheap department store bike). Other people have pointed out that a bent coat hanger and possibly a big paper clip could work in a pinch.

If you take the chain off the front chainring when joining it, than it isn't a problem whatsoever. Why do you need to leave the chain on the chainring when joining it? it only makes it more difficult than it needs to be. I've never seen any of the Mechanics in my area use a tool like that, myself included.

If you take the chain off the front chainring when joining it, than it isn't a problem whatsoever. Why do you need to leave the chain on the chainring when joining it? it only makes it more difficult than it needs to be. I've never seen any of the Mechanics in my area use a tool like that, myself included.
It's only harder than it has to be if you don't use the tool. Using the tool frees up your hands and holds the parts in place. It's the exact same reason people use bike stands, clamps, and vices. The chain compressor keeps the chain in place, while your hands are free to get the chain tool, connector links, or spare pin. Some people size their chain with it routed through the pulleys. The compressor allows them to set it up so the pulley wheels are lined up vertically. Without the compressor, you're using your hands to hold the chain, hold tension on the chain, and connect the ends. If your chain is already routed, and you find you have to add or subtract links, you can skip the step of handling the chain, removing it off the rings, holding it in place, and replacing it on the rings. Makes an even bigger difference if you're handling a dirty chain, or fiddling with connector links that are settled into place.

+1 I do this myself. If you can't find metal coat hangers - check your local metal yard.

Or drycleaner. Another +1 on the coat hanger/spoke V chain slack-maker tool.

It's only harder than it has to be if you don't use the tool. Using the tool frees up your hands and holds the parts in place. It's the exact same reason people use bike stands, clamps, and vices. The chain compressor keeps the chain in place, while your hands are free to get the chain tool, connector links, or spare pin. Some people size their chain with it routed through the pulleys. The compressor allows them to set it up so the pulley wheels are lined up vertically. Without the compressor, you're using your hands to hold the chain, hold tension on the chain, and connect the ends. If your chain is already routed, and you find you have to add or subtract links, you can skip the step of handling the chain, removing it off the rings, holding it in place, and replacing it on the rings. Makes an even bigger difference if you're handling a dirty chain, or fiddling with connector links that are settled into place.

+10 My experience exactly. I change stuff around a lot, so am doing a lot of 'rechaining', and would NOT be without my Park tool.

Not the Park tool, but certainly up to the task. Whether you buy this or make your own, it's definitely one of the most used tools for those who do their own maintenance.
http://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cgi?id=19038843687&d=single&c=Tools&sc=Chain&tc=Chain-Compressor&item_id=YC-207

+1

Even with enough slack that you're not on the derailleur spring, juggling both ends, a pin, and tool can be frustrating. This tool supplies two of the four required hands.