Bicycle Mechanics - School me on threadless headsets.

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corkscrew
10-21-10, 10:41 AM
So I picked up a mid-90's rock hopper at the junk yard the other day. It's missing it's headset, and much to my chagrin it is a threadless fork.

I'll be ordering a cane creek s-3 1 1/8th headset for it.

My question belongs to the locking spacer question. I found the problem solvers locking spacer, but I'd also need a cable hanger for the canti's.

Looking at the threadless cable hangers, it appears they are tightened by a bolt to the headset. Would this also work to "lock" the bearing adjustment of the headset?

I ask because I'm not sure of my stem/bar combo yet, but would like to get the fork installed and properly adjusted and not have to re-adjust while I fiddle with stems.

Al Criner
10-21-10, 11:19 AM
Yes, you can use the cable hanger to preload the headset, then fiddle with stems and spacers very easily.
corkscrew
10-21-10, 11:21 AM
That's what I was hoping for! Thanks!

fietsbob
10-21-10, 12:32 PM
Actually.. Most of the headset adjustment locking is done by the bolts holding on the stem,
but a clamp on cable hanger adds to the collection of pinch bolts, around the steerer,

the Center bolt in the top of everything, does the actual preload fine tuning,
pulling against the Star nut, pushing down on the stack
while all pinch bolts below it are loose .

then you tighten all the pinch bolts below it , and the top cap bolt 's work is done ,

till next adjustment time.
reptilezs
10-21-10, 03:57 PM
why the resistance to threadless? they are much easier to adjust
cyclist2000
10-21-10, 07:18 PM
why the resistance to threadless? they are much easier to adjust

Who is resistant to threadless?
surreal
10-21-10, 08:03 PM
Who is resistant to threadless?

The OP indicated an aversion to threadless. The OP should know that he can find a 1-1/8" threaded fork and a 1-1/8" threaded headset and, assuming the steerer tube and the forks threading are compat, he can cling to his primitive ways. He can also play a NES, if he so desires.

I feel that the threaded versus threadless debate is kind of meaningless. I mean, i hate aberrant headtube sizes, like the old "bmx" standard and these new tapered things and the 1-1/4", but only because sourcing parts is troublesome. In reality, i think 1" threaded headsets ad quills look nicer, but threadless systems are easier to work with. For a mtb, the 1-1/8" is practically a necessity, b/c the bearings deal with offroad stress much better. That being said, the most readily available stuff in 1-1/8" threaded is pretty yucky (and not very available,anyway).

But, hey, you got an aged spesh and you got my all-time favorite cheap headset, or at least my favorite cheap threadless headset. Rejoice!

-rob