Bicycle Mechanics - tool(s) for removing Shimano 600 freewheel?

I reviewed Sheldon and everything there suggests that Shimano = splined and Suntour = bossed. But clearly this freewheel (assuming it is a freewheel) on my '82 Schwinn Voyageur SP has no splines. Do I just get a Park FR-2? or is there something unusual about this freewheel?

I got the bike earlier this year, so I dunno what parts were original, but I'm guessing that pretty much everything is circa 1982. I need to remove the freewheel to replace a spoke.

I attach a pic and thank you in advance for any suggestions.
http://atoms.net/bike/images/shimanoFreewheel.JPG

measure across the notches

http://www.bicycletool.com/shimanoduraace600reginafreewheelremover.aspx

measure across the notches

The notches are 6mm wide. The outside diameter of the notches is 25mm. Lemme know if that isn't what you meant.

http://www.bicycletool.com/shimanoduraace600reginafreewheelremover.aspx

That looks right. Thanks!

use the park fr 2

http://www.bicycletool.com/shimanoduraace600reginafreewheelremover.aspx

This one may work better:
http://www.bicycletool.com/reginafreewheeltool.aspx
because the outer ring helps keep it from slipping on the notches and fouling them up. That was the problem with the old-style Regina removers. Sometimes they'd get a little off-center and start peeling the notches off the freewheel body. Whichever tool you get, clamp it on the freewheel with the QR skewer, and make sure the QR is tight. Then break the freewheel loose by clamping the tool in a bench vice and using the wheel for leverage. All you need to do is get the freewheel started- once it turns a quarter-turn or so, take out the QR skewer and finish spinning off the freewheel- it shouldn't take more than finger pressure.

If you do mess up the freewheel with the tool before it loosens, it's a candidate for destructive removal.

The notches are 6mm wide. The outside diameter of the notches is 25mm. Lemme know if that isn't what you meant.
Those are the exact measurements of my Sun Tour two-notch puller. I wonder if one of them will work.

use the park fr 2
No, the Park FR-2 is for SunTour freewheels. The Shimano 600/Dura-Ace 2-prong freewheels used the old Regina specification:
http://www.os2.dhs.org/~john/shim-dafw.jpg

This one may work better:
http://www.bicycletool.com/reginafreewheeltool.aspx
because the outer ring helps keep it from slipping on the notches and fouling them up.
That's actually the same tool. The outer ring is removable on the Bicycle Research tool. I'm not sure that ring is worth the extra $12, but you're right -- it does help prevent damage to the slots.

That's actually the same tool. The outer ring is removable on the Bicycle Research tool. I'm not sure that ring is worth the extra $12, but you're right -- it does help prevent damage to the slots.

use a hose clamp to act as a ring.

remove the QR springs when clamping the tool to the axle. as stated in a post the QR needs to be TIGHT no play at all. Best to use an old QR and tighten by holding the lever and using pliers or vice grips to lock the nut in place. as stated if the notches break off, the freewheel is history. you only need to break the threads loose maybe only an 1/8 of a turn and then loosen the QR but keep it snug while taking the FW off.

Thanks everyone. Clearly I should own the tool if I'm gonna wrench on the that bike. But, my other bikes are all in project mode (in pieces) so the Voyageur is my only rider at the moment.

The spoke is on the non-drive side but it looks like I should take the freewheel off due to the threading and the small flange. Would it be a big mistake, in this case, to bend the spoke enough to install it without taking off the freewheel? The idea of being without a bike while I wait for the tool to be delivered is horrifying to me, and since I got laid off last July I need to save my LBS budget for stuff I really can't do myself. My question is, will bending the spoke significantly compromise the integrity of the spoke?

Thanks everyone. Clearly I should own the tool if I'm gonna wrench on the that bike. But, my other bikes are all in project mode (in pieces) so the Voyageur is my only rider at the moment.

The spoke is on the non-drive side but it looks like I should take the freewheel off due to the threading and the small flange. Would it be a big mistake, in this case, to bend the spoke enough to install it without taking off the freewheel? The idea of being without a bike while I wait for the tool to be delivered is horrifying to me, and since I got laid off last July I need to save my LBS budget for stuff I really can't do myself. My question is, will bending the spoke significantly compromise the integrity of the spoke?

Shouldn't hurt as long as you don't put a sharp kink in it. I've bent spokes pretty far to get them into tight spots. It will straighten out just fine when you tension it.

A good LBS will have a collection of freewheel tools. You can use them to be sure what tool fits before buying your own.

I should have a better collection of freewheel tools myself so I just had my LBS order the Regina tool for me. The kind with the outer ring. DMF's suggestion is a brilliant one, but it came a bit late.

I solved the immediate problem by bending the spoke. It trued up just fine and rides great now. I think perhaps it was a bit out of true before, or perhaps it just feels better 'cause it is a beautiful day here in Chicago and the tire has a fresh 100 lbs in it.

Thanks everyone for your assistance. I will have to take the freewheel off eventually so your help will eventually come in handy.