Classic & Vintage - Shifter conversion to integrated shifters (brake/shifter)
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11-08-10, 09:47 PM
I am about to receive a job in restoring a cannondale bike with apparently shimano 105 component group. The guy who wants me to do this is thinking he wants to see what involves converting it to an integrated shifting system. I'm aware that in order for this to happen you have to replace the rear sprockets, front chainrings, chain, and maybe even derailleurs in order for all of this to happen?
Is this due to the integrated shifters usually being indexed? If so, does this mean I can't use the old derailleurs if they were friction? Why is this?
I know the reasoning to change the cogs and stuff if it is indexed.
Aside from this huge issue, I want to know, if integrated friction shifters exist? If they do do they still require all the replacement?
Thanks alot, this is the first time i'll be attempting to even analyze converting the shifting system on a bike, but i feel confident as long as I get all the info I need.
11-08-10, 10:10 PM
I dont know much about Cannondale frames but the rear spacing should to be 130mm since its aluminum as i wouldnt personally bend aluminum to accept the proper spacing for a hub with cassette. Its all fairly easy if you are good at turning a wrench, Ive done this but I usually use a donor and use all the components including the wheels from an sti equipped bike. From my experience old friction shift stuff dont work as well as the new, Ive gotten some stuff to work, ie; suntour with shimano and all that but its alot of trail and error and alot of time. So in my opinion I would go with all sti stuff if this isnt gonna be your personal ride.
11-08-10, 11:10 PM
STI shifters come indexed only. The issue with all indexed systems is that the amount of cable pull at the shifter with each click has to translate through the rear derailleur to moving the chain the spacing between one pair of cogs. As a result the rear hub and rear derailleur both must be compatible with the shifters.
On STI systems the front derailleur is pseudo-indexed, meaning there is usually one big click for shifting and another click or two for trim. On Ergo systems it is closer to friction in the front with a large number of small clicks (I count 12 on mine). It is possible (I think) to turn a rear shifter into pseudo-friction by swapping out the indexing rings but I haven't tried this to be sure.
11-09-10, 05:01 AM
The frame is probably 126 mm, so you'll need to spread it a bit each time to get the 130 mm wheel in. No big deal, but you can't "cold set" it to 130mm permanently.
Sounds like you know everything else you'll need. Don't forget the little adapters to turn the downtube shifter bosses into cable stops. You can use the old front derailleur if it's a double since there's no indexing.
11-09-10, 05:26 AM
The answer is, it depends. Many factors come into play and they all add up to variables which can be made to work or can be impossible to overcome.
First we need more information: What vintage is the Cannondale? How many cogs does it currently have on it's rear cassette or freewheel (and which is it)? How many cogs does your friend want to go to? How much does your friend want to spend on the upgrade?
I converted a 1983 6 speed, 126mm spaced Paramount to 7 speed mixed Campagnolo, Shimano, and Suntour drivetrain, and it works well. The SIS shifters and FD are Sora triples, the crankset and RD are Campy 9 speed Mirage/Centaur, and the freewheel is Suntour ultra spaced. The 126mm spacing remained the same. I invested about $250 in this project.
11-09-10, 08:17 AM
There is another option. You can go with a 7 speed brifter. Here's a 91 R400 that I converted from downtube to brifter remaining 7 speed. It was VERY easy and required no components change (except of course, the shifters).
11-09-10, 08:44 AM
I've used a 6speed shimano 105 rear derailleur with a 9 speed chain, STI, and 9 speed cassette and it worked. I guess my point is, your shimano 105 derailleurs should work.
However, I've read that spreading out an aluminum frame is bad.
nautaflcl, Replacing the down tube shifters with cable stops and the brake levers with STI levers is all it'll take if the group is already SIS.
PS bluenote157, I installed a 130 mm hub into my '89 Cannondale a decade ago without any problems. It is a bit stiff to R&R.
11-18-10, 01:17 AM
hey thanks alot you all, you all are the best.
However I have yet to take a close look at this bike, since right now i'm under alot of mess in order to get my school work done (college) and am trying to clear that before committing to this project.
I'm not sure how much the guy is willing to spend, apparently he went to a schwinn place and they told him it was possible. ? I dk, I have yet to look at it and see if it's already indexed and all that stuff.
I assume I will have to trial and error a little bit, I just want to make sure I look like I know what I'm doing, which I mean I do, but I dont since this is my first conversion. However I know my way around mechanics and I've analyzed the bikes I have fixed up and basically it'll just take some close analyzation of the components and all of that.
When you get an Sti shifter, and say it's like....7 speed or 6 or something, it can only work on seven speed cassettes (or six) right? You can't go switching that around right?
I mean, i know you can switch the rings out to match the shifters, but i want to try and keep the rings it may have already.
Also does it matter if it's cassette or freewheel? I wouldn't think it would..
That's all that comes to mind for now. I'll try and get to it asap, thanks alot you all.
P.s. Oh yeah, how would I go about spacing the back? what is that for again?
The spacing I mean, why do I need to space it? What will I be adding that will make it need more space for the wheel?
11-18-10, 01:18 AM
p.s. wouldn't it be great if there were some video of someone demonstrating some sort of conversion?
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