Bicycle Mechanics - Decal says "Use Shimano IG chain only"

Is this some special kind of chain? It's on a Montague 1996 Olympics bike. Here's a pic. If I break the chain will it be difficult to find a replacement link/master link?
The bb is loose and it's making popping noises. I'm going to try and fix it. Referring to my other post I will be buying a tool to pull the crank off with.
Can anyone offer any other information as to what I will encounter when removing this bb?
I removed the left side crank with a gear puller, but won't be able to use that on the right side for fear of distorting a chainring. I'll need a special tool.
After I get the cranks off then I'll see what it takes to remove the bb. It would be nice to only have to make one tool order.
This is a learning experience for me.
Any help would be appreciated.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/k7.html#interactive

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/k7.html#interactive

"Shimano says you shouldn't use H.G. chains on I.G. cassettes. SRAM chains are compatible with both types. "

Hey, thanks Shimagnolo. According to the above quote from Brown, I can replace the I.G. chain with a SRAM chain, if need be. That's helpful to know.
Now I if I can just get that right side crank off without wrecking anything I'll be able to see what's in that bb shell.................................

Any current chain of the right width, ie. 8s, 9s, etc will work. feel free to use the chain of your choice from Shimano, Sram, KMC, Wippermann, Taya, or others. It might have been an issue back in 1996, but chain and cassette progress is evolutionary and there's little risk of finding a non IG compatible chain these days unless you try.

Any current chain It might have been an issue back in 1996, but chain and cassette progress is evolutionary and there's little risk of finding a non IG compatible chain these days unless you try.

What was the difference between IG and non IG chains?

If I break the chain will it be difficult to find a replacement link/master link?

Just rejoin the broken link with the chain tool, unless you specifically want a master link?

What was the difference between IG and non IG chains?

With the advent of Hyperglide and similar gated shifting, side stresses on chains increased markedly. Chains evolved from traditional designs where plates were simply pressed on pins and held by their tight fit, to having pins that were peened over the plates sort of like the riveting that hold structural steel assemblies together. The peening helps prevent chain breakage by preventing the plates from being spread beyond the end of the plates.


Just rejoin the broken link with the chain tool, unless you specifically want a master link?

Bad advice. You cannot simply cut and splice current production (last 10+ years) derailleur chains with a chain tool. They can be cut the same as always, but connecting requires either a special pin or connecting link. Simply re-splicing by pressing the pin out and back with a chain tool doesn't provide enough side strength for use with gated shift systems, and greatly increases the odds of chain breakage.

You cannot simply cut and splice current production (last 10+ years) derailleur chains with a chain tool.

Oh I see- only had experience with the older type. How do you go about removing the cut link then? Surely doing so makes in effect another break in the chain, resulting in another link to be removed?

What was the difference between IG and non IG chains?
FBinNY's reply about ther revised pin designs needed for chains used with gated and enhanced cogs and chainrings is correct but both HG and IG chains required the special joining pin in 8-speed and newer types.

Shimano recommended the HG chains for road cassettes and IG for MTB cassettes as their sideplate designs were somewhat different. They also said IG chains were satisfactory for use with road cassettes and my own experience bears this out. I used IG90 chains for tens of thousands of miles on various 7 and 8-speed road bikes and they worked very well. They were also available at very attractive prices (often under $15) and were very durable.

Oh I see- only had experience with the older type. How do you go about removing the cut link then? Surely doing so makes in effect another break in the chain, resulting in another link to be removed?

How you cut depends on how you plan to close the chain.

If using a link, you'll remove an outer link by cutting both sides, leaving an inner link at both ends. If using the special connecting pin made for your chain, you drive the old pin out completely and replace it.

Now I if I can just get that right side crank off without wrecking anything I'll be able to see what's in that bb shell.................................

Try this: http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help