Bicycle Mechanics - give me a lever long enough and I will remove your bottom bracket

I had to extend my monkey wrench with a 4 foot pipe in order to get my bottom bracket off. 4 damn feet!

And that wasn't just to get it started either. I needed that lever for every damn turn.

Can you say "over torqued"?

rusty?
thread locker?

if it wasn't thread locker, I would guess that it was galled.

rusty?
thread locker?

I think it was a combination of under lubrication and over torquing in initial assembly, and rust from years of salted roads in winter and marine air in summer.

Turning frame on vice method did not work...but the four foot lever did (with a little muscle).

When turning semi-frozen steel or aluminum parts be sure to keep them well oiled. Otherwise hear and pressure will cause galling and if it's extreme enough, a bolt may re-freeze half way off. Sometimes the second freeze is much more of a problem than the original was.

When turning semi-frozen steel or aluminum parts be sure to keep them well oiled. Otherwise hear and pressure will cause galling and if it's extreme enough, a bolt may re-freeze half way off. Sometimes the second freeze is much more of a problem than the original was.

I agree and was also taught to go back and forth. a full turn out 1/2 a turn back in.

When turning semi-frozen steel or aluminum parts be sure to keep them well oiled. Otherwise hear and pressure will cause galling and if it's extreme enough, a bolt may re-freeze half way off. Sometimes the second freeze is much more of a problem than the original was.

Hmmm...perhaps that explains why the pedal spindle threads came out filled with aluminum from the crank arm. I didn't need a 4 foot lever for that, but they were frozen even worse than the BB.

Although, I always seem to have problems with pedal threads being destroyed on crank arms even when they're not frozen...and it always seems to be the drive side. Anyone know why?

galvanic corrosion is a factor when the steel spindle and alu crank arms are screwed together without grease or anti-seize.

If you've got a few minutes, you might
want to read this thread:

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?696074-Anti-seize-Compounds&highlight=anti+seize

I'm not certain there was any consensus reached,
but it was my first introduction to what a tempest
in a teapot can be generated on BF by the most
innocuous comment. :fight:

Respectfully,
Mike Larmer

A little grease on your threads will save you a lot of grief as will anti-seize compounds which will make that grief saving a little more costly.

When I come to the bike co-op I am most annoyed that they always throw away the snipes I have made thinking they are scrap metal and even when I have written (DO NOT THROW OUT") on them they have been tossed.

They have also mis-filed my ShelBroCo fixed cup remover for the umpteenth time despite it being tagged as being a specialized tool..

What is a snipe?

What is a snipe?

Good question, 3 pages of Google results only mention shore birds, E-bay, some kind of sail boat and things to do with rifles.

Murphy's Law dictates that if only one of a pair of crank arms is to be damaged, it'll always be the right one because it's more expensive.

Anyway, grease is a very effective way to keep steel pedals from freezing in alloy cranks. If you want to paint the lily use anti-seize but it won't be any better. It's also good practice to remove the pedals, seatpost and stem once every year or so to interrupt the seizing process and reset the clock, especially for all weather riders and those living near the coast. I do this as part of my annual tune-up in the early Spring.

I

If you've got a few minutes, you might
want to read this thread:

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?696074-Anti-seize-Compounds&highlight=anti+seize

I'm not certain there was any consensus reached,
but it was my first introduction to what a tempest
in a teapot can be generated on BF by the most
innocuous comment. :fight:

Respectfully,
Mike Larmer
Oh, yeah, there was a concensus. Briefly, grease is adequate, anti-seize is better but not a requirement.

What is a snipe?

It was you wasn't it ?

:)

Good question, 3 pages of Google results only mention shore birds, E-bay, some kind of sail boat and things to do with rifles.

It is a 3 foot metre metal tube you use to extend wrench handles with so you can gain more leverage.

Wonder if this is a regional term as when I asked my housemate what a snipe was he said, "it's a long metal tube you slip on wrench handles..."

You will find references to this term if you look up "cheater bar" and don;t know if it is a Canadian thing or a more regional term for a cheater bar.

It is a 3 foot metre metal tube you use to extend wrench handles with so you can gain more leverage.

Wonder if this is a regional term as when I asked my housemate what a snipe was he said, "it's a long metal tube you slip on wrench handles..."

You will find references to this term if you look up "cheater bar" and don;t know if it is a Canadian thing or a more regional term for a cheater bar.

seems local, we call it a cheater bar over here.

Anyway, grease is a very effective way to keep steel pedals from freezing in alloy cranks. If you want to paint the lily use anti-seize but it won't be any better.

Yeah well assembly procedures are often lacking on $300 bikes and what would be the point of overhauling a bike until you've logged enough miles to decide whether or not it's a keeper?

Also, imo, any theoretical benefit provided by anti-seize is far outweighed by the tremendous mess it makes.


It's also good practice to remove the pedals, seatpost and stem once every year or so to interrupt the seizing process and reset the clock, especially for all weather riders and those living near the coast. I do this as part of my annual tune-up in the early Spring.


Personally I try to avoid removing the pedals because that's how the crank threads get damaged.

I think aluminum threading is really a bad idea, but with cranks it's a necessary evil for keeping the weight of the bike down.

I've never heard snipe! I hear cheater bar all the time though -- I've lived in the U.S. Midwest and Eastern seaboard for reference ;).

Also - "snipe hunting" is a well-known practice of convincing someone to go night hunting for small bird, whereby you intentionally get them lost in the woods (or wherever) and then try to scare the crap out of them. It sometimes includes the use of alcohol.

At our shop, it's labeled "BFP" for big..something...pipe.

At our shop, it's labeled "BFP" for big..something...pipe.

ahhh yes, the famous BFP...works hand in hand with the BFH. :)

At my company's pilot plant we called the 48" pipe wrench the "Model BMF"

What is a snipe?

Snipes: Sailors assigned to the Engineering rates, i.e. Machinists Mates, Boilermen, Enginemen, Pipefitters. Also known as pit snipes, see pit.

http://www.aboutlanguageschools.com/language/slang/navy-slang.asp#s

Hmm... seems regional. I'm in Ottawa, and I don't think I've ever heard that.