Bicycle Mechanics - Cable stop for aero brake levers?

What is the name of the bullet-shaped cable stop that goes on the backside of aero drop-bar brake levers? I can't seem to locate them anywhere online, and even if a LBS has them, it might be complicated to ask for them without carrying one in with me. Possibly I'd have more luck obtaining spares if I knew what they're called.

For reference, the two lever sets I own that use this type of cable stop are DiaCompe "Blaze" (for sidepull and centerpull brakes) and DiaCompe "Edge" (for V brakes) - since I suppose some other designs might not use separate cable stops. I still have the stops that came with the Blaze levers when purchased new, but am constantly in fear of losing them, and the Edge levers were bought secondhand and came without the proper cable stops. I've been making do with universal brake lever cable stops like this one (http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/21GUI93dKFL._SL500_AA300_.jpg) on the Edge levers for the time being. For all I know, this may be the only alternative.

As an aside, I've been using non-aero-style mount loops for the Edge levers since they also came without those, and they make mounting and adjustment quite complicated. Haven't yet found a source for getting replacement aero-type mounting loops (like what came with my Blaze levers) for a reasonable price (i.e. $30 for loops seems silly for a lever set that cost $20).

i may need these too

Checked QBP [quality bike parts inc]thru your LBS [local bike shop]yet?
likely a Replica part is needed. they're the big distributor in the states.
Dia Compe is now Cane Creek.. FWIW,

the rounded end would make it more of a self aligning housing end...

1987cp, Interesting post to me. I have a pair of Dia-Compe BRS300 brake levers. They were missing that cable housing stop, though I didn't know exactly what was really missing until now and used a pair of female pop rivit bodies to anchor the cable housing. I wouldn't have tried the rivits if I knew what the missing part looked like... Worked fine for the last seven years or so. I'm sure the brakes would be even better with the correct part.

Brad

PS I don't remember what size rivit, sorry.

Common problem, as those bullet-ferrules usually get lost once the levers spend even a day off of the bike.

I've noticed that many of these lever bodies will accept a standard, squared-off metal ferrule and operate just fine.
On that version, the new ferrule is an improvement in that the angled housing is held straight where the inner wire enters the ferrule. The original ferrules, otoh, angle over by swivel action and then the wire makes a sharp turn entering the housing, even cutting through the ferrule over time!

Some older D-C aero levers won't accept the normal ferrules directly, but with those I've used the type of ferrules with stepped-down external dual diameters. I had to file those a bit, but once seated (a bit of care when assembling levers on the bar) they also seemed better in terms of eliminating the sharp angle of housing to the inner wire.

The bullet ferrules were such a dumb idea! How can a brake lever manufacturer not understand the importance of smooth cable runs? These rank right up there with the small-diameter, stem-mounted pulley wheel hangers that ensured annual cable breakage, or the 45-degree (sharp) angle fittings fitted to some front cable hangers.
Seriously, some of this cable-guiding hardware looks to have been designed to the level of quality of disposable toys.

I suspect that the bullet ferrule was designed for the early practice of routing the housing thru holes in the handlebars, which typically (ideally, anyway) gave the cable a straight shot out of the lever body. Production bikes, however, rarely were set up that way and the lever bodies did have a tunnel for normal external routing under the tape, but kept the lame bullet ferrules.

The most likely supplier might be Loose Screws, but if these are "self-aligning", the question is, self-aligning with what? They might better be described as "self-mis-aligning".

The term "aero" applied to brake levers means that the cables are hidden under the bar tape. The levers you must have if they need these sort of cable stops are "flying housing", "non-aero" or just "regular" road levers.

The term "aero" applied to brake levers means that the cables are hidden under the bar tape. The levers you must have if they need these sort of cable stops are "flying housing", "non-aero" or just "regular" road levers.

BCRider, you're not familiar with the DiaCompe aero levers. The weird ferrule is inside and the cable housing comes out along the bar. These are from the old days, early aero in other words.

BCRider, I'll try to describe mine... There's a channel in the brake body to guide the cable housing with a small step at it's base. The step isn't wide enough to prevent the housing from easily extending further into the brake body and a cable end cap barely contacts the step and isn't quite thick enough to help. The rivit body I used was just barely smaller in diameter than the main channel and rests on the step. My solution is a bit Macgyveresque, but works and dirt cheap.

Brad

Thanks for the replies! After a few minutes of searching, I began to get the feeling that my levers were simply of an outdated or deprecated design - otherwise, these things ought to be absolutely everywhere, like valve stem caps. The pop-rivet trick sounds possibly nicer than my solution, though. Have to see if I have one of a suitable size. Also interesting about the separate-ferrule thing being intended to work with internal cable routing, which (predictably enough) I'm not using.

dddd: What type of square-end ferrules are you thinking of? The only ones I really know are the protective cable-housing ends, but a QBP search came up with this funky stepped thing that looks to be of a larger diameter: http://harriscyclery.net/product/wheels-mfg-step-down-ferrules-5-4mm-pair-sku-br1337-qc49.htm Though my search also turned up a bullet-shaped one that appears to be correct, or nearly so: http://harriscyclery.net/product/dia-compe-95-ferrule-for-agc-brake-levers-5.0mm-id-bag-of-10-sku-br1257-qc49.htm Harris has it listed as being for "AGC" levers, and coincidentally, searching Google for AGC brake levers turns up 10-packs of the above at a number of locations - so this means a shop in my area should almost certainly either have some or be able to get me some. Cool.



So how do the newer aero levers work? I'm gathering from this discussion that they have an integral cast-in cable stop that points the housing in a more pinch-resistant direction?

Given Harris copied a QPB photo, that is the wholesaler they buy from,

so If your LBS has a QBP account, just have them add it to their next wholesale order.

...So how do the newer aero levers work? I'm gathering from this discussion that they have an integral cast-in cable stop that points the housing in a more pinch-resistant direction?

Excactly, To tell the truth all the aero levers I've used have been Shimano. The cable stop is cast right into the perch with those.

To Bradtx and dddd thanks for edumacating me that there is another style of design out there.

I think this is what your looking for. I was scrounging for a pair yesterday myself.
but IIRC you olny needed them for DiaCompe/Suntour levers

http://www.loosescrews.com/index.cgi?d=single&c=Cable/Casing&sc=Ferrules&tc=5mm%20Inside%20Diameter&item_id=DC-B95&id=257708331421
http://www.loosescrews.com/Product_Images/DC-B95.jpg

Weinmann Delta brake aero levers need them too. I'll be looking for these too, very soon.....I guess "Loose Screws" have them then.....
Thanks BG!

Chombi

My dura ace 7400 aero lever have that same type of stop that I lost for a few years, I found it in my tool box when scrounging for something else. Now when the levers are off the bike I keep them in ziploc bags.