Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - any idea what frame this is?

so i got this frame for a build of a fixed gear that ive been wanting to do for a while. found it at my community pick a part. but a search on google brings back nothing. the only 2 markings on the frame is procraft and legend. it doesnt have a actual stamped serial number on the bottom (just has a decal from my state with a assigned serial number). does anyone have any info on this frame?

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a303/CommanderZero/IMG_4269.jpg
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a303/CommanderZero/IMG_4270.jpg

Oh yeah, that is a procraft legend

It would make a better single speed than a fixed gear due to the way the dropouts are. However, it can still be done and reasonably safely.

You can convert that just fine, infact you could make a very utilitarian type fixed gear out of that.

Whatever you do....


DO...NOT...SAW...ANYTHING...OFF.

listen to dan. I have no doubt hes more knowledgeable than me here.

What ever you do saw everything off first. Like the head tube, Seat stay, You know that why everything is new and clean.

Is that thing made for 26" wheels? If so, I'm super jealous. I have a terribly hard time finding old MTB frames with horizontal dropouts (and canti mounts.)


It would make a better single speed than a fixed gear due to the way the dropouts are. However, it can still be done and reasonably safely.

Say whaaaaat? I'd like an explanation on this. That frame would make a perfectly good fixed gear/single speed.

Yeah I think it is made for 26" rims. I have a 700c fork though so I'm gonna run 700c rims and just a front brake.

Is that thing made for 26" wheels? If so, I'm super jealous. I have a terribly hard time finding old MTB frames with horizontal dropouts (and canti mounts.)

Yeah, you'll need, umm, my memory fails, I'm guessing 1986 or earlier for the horizontal dropouts and MTB production was far from peaking at the time.

But screw horizontal dropouts, you need the Leinenkugel's MTB!!! (http://appleton.craigslist.org/bik/2129310435.html)

http://images.craigslist.org/3m23pf3l65O65Q55P6acp62d26aace61f1888.jpg http://images.craigslist.org/3n73k23pd5O35Q05W4acp60354296918012b1.jpg

Holy cow, there is a gigantic bmx scene on the Oshkosh craigslist.

Yup. Too bad BMX isn't my thing.. That Leinie's bike is cool, but I wouldn't drop $350 on it! By the way: I've seen horizontal dropouts on newer mountain bikes but they get lower-quality the newer you go. Take a look at bikes in Walmart: I bet you'll still find horizontal dropouts there.

Also, I want the OP's Procraft Legend :)

Yeah I think it is made for 26" rims. I have a 700c fork though so I'm gonna run 700c rims and just a front brake.

Actually, you may not be able to fit a 700c wheel in the rear due to interference with the braces for the chainstays and seatstays.

RE: Procraft Legend. Hmm, TIG'd steel, horizontal dropouts, canti on the back, guides instead of stops on the top tube. 1984 maybe? Odd that it's not lugged.

That doesn't look like a tubing sticker on the seat tube but I'm curious about what it says.

I've never heard of it. Could have been only for Asian or Canadien or Euro markets.

Edit: a search for Procraft mountain bike yielded a hit with a bunch of stems priced in pounds sterling. Kinda has me leaning towards it being a Euro brand.

Yup. Too bad BMX isn't my thing.. That Leinie's bike is cool, but I wouldn't drop $350 on it! By the way: I've seen horizontal dropouts on newer mountain bikes but they get lower-quality the newer you go. Take a look at bikes in Walmart: I bet you'll still find horizontal dropouts there.

Yeah, the lower end held onto limousine length rear triangles and horizontal dropouts for longer than the mid and upper range.

Probably a bit high for the Leinenkugels, but I love that paint.

Really? It seems that they'll be just enough room to fit it. But is there a way to measure to be sure?

Hmmm, above the BB FD cable run. When did they stop doing that in road circles? Sheldon's kinda vague, just says mid-80s.

Really? It seems that they'll be just enough room to fit it. But is there a way to measure to be sure?

Well, the diameter of a medium sized 700 x 32c tire is about 27" even, so the radius would be 13.5", so you'd need that much clearance from the center of the wheel axle to the braces. Assume the wheel is all the way forward in the dropout, which would be the worst case.

Really? It seems that they'll be just enough room to fit it. But is there a way to measure to be sure?

The best way is to put a wheel in there. You don't need an inflated tire on there, but if you don't want to deflate the tire for wheel removal and install every time for the life of the bike, use a wheel with an inflated tire to test.

I've ridden setups that required deflation but didn't mind because I was usually pulling out a flat anyways. The worst is catching yourself trying to put a freshly patched, fully inflated tire back on the bike. Uggh!

If you can get a 700c on it it would have to be all the way on the back of the dropouts and tire size could be really limited. Say at most, a 700x23c. If not, don't sweat it, a 26" wheel fixed gear can be fun.

screw the frame, more interested in those guitars and that joystick

That joystick is totally gnarly!

The stick is a old thrustmaster f16 fcs and the guitars is a 1940s Martin and some yamaha.

damn you and your 1940s martin. :D

my 74 orange label yamaha FG sounds and plays them any martin made after 1965.. so you win this round.

Alright so the frame is probably a euro brand? The decal on the seat tube is just the same sticker on the headtube. There's no info on the tube material.

Give the top tube / seat tube a good flick.

If it makes a "ting" sound, that's cool.
If it's more like a "thud", that usually means heavier steel.

And use the canti studs. There is no reason not to make this frame a fully fendered, all weather beast.

Unfortunately, it doesn't look like you'll find much on the frame. Judging by the derailer hanger it was a better quality bike. The lower-end models generally have plain dropouts and use adapter claws. You could weigh it. That would give some indication to the quality.

Despite what others have said, I bet you'll be able to fit a 700c wheel in. A skinny 700 tire is about the same diameter as a fat MTB tire. But of course the only way to know for sure is to try it.

I dunno for sure if it's Euro. I see a lot of 82-84 Procraft BMX, but the http://www.procraft.de/ site says 25 years. Why would they omit the first couple of years? Maybe they'll keep the 25 yr badge up 'til 30 years comes around next year? Could be a couple of different companies?

Check this early 90s violet Procraft: Str8 pimpin!

http://www.apexspeed.com/doug/random/bikes/procraft/procraft8_lg.jpg

Despite what others have said, I bet you'll be able to fit a 700c wheel in. A skinny 700 tire is about the same diameter as a fat MTB tire. But of course the only way to know for sure is to try it.

I measure a 1" difference between a 23mm road tire and 2.1" aired up to 100 and 35 psi respectively. Quite a few frames had 1" clearance with 2.1s, many didn't. You'll probably want 1/8 clearance at least.

That procraft is rocking.

Yeah the purple rock shox and the Reynolds badge are making me very horny for that bike.

I think I'm gonna just build 700c rims since I already have a fork that's supposingly for 700c. But I'm not even sure about that

Try to borrow a 700c wheel to check it out before wheel building.

You could always run 700c up front and 26" in the back if push comes to shove. The back might sit a little low with small slicks back there, so watch your crank length. Conti 1.3, Ritchey 1.4, something like that. There's a Ritchey 1.0", but I think you need to have a pretty narrow rear rim to run that thing. 1.3 or 1.4 would be a good match for 28mm up front, assuming your fork/brake will fit a 28. Edit: actually I'd probably go smaller up front, run 23s to help reduce the overall diameter difference.