Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - easy way to remove fork crown race with minimal tools?

I've heard of slowly use a flat head but i cant get it to budge


PSshahaw. I got it(:

How do i mount it on a new fork easly? Pvc tube?

flat head and hammer?

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/headsets.html#replacement

Seriously, this **** ain't that hard.

If the fork crown race extends beyond the fork crown in the front and back, use a steel drift pin and hammer and alternately tap it front and back towards the steerer tube until it comes off.

If the fork crown race extends beyond the fork crown in the front and back, use a steel drift pin and hammer and alternately tap it front and back towards the steerer tube until it comes off.

Did this, Thanks tt. Is there an easy way to mount the race on a new fork?

Find a piece of steel pipe or even pvc with an ID slightly greater than the OD of the steerer tube, and drive the new race onto the crown with it.

You can still use a screwdriver and hammer to put it on the same way you did to take it off. The pipe/PVC method would definitely be easier, but if you're too lazy to go find something that fits, the hammer and screwdriver should work.

You can still use a screwdriver and hammer to put it on the same way you did to take it off. The pipe/PVC method would definitely be easier, but if you're too lazy to go find something that fits, the hammer and screwdriver should work.

I tried that once, and I found it to be impossible. I'd hit it on one side, and it would just pop off on the other side. Also, if it is a true bearing race, as is the case for loose bearing headsets, you risk slipping and damaging the race bearing surface.

Well I've done it, so it's not impossible. I think I stuck a rag between the screwdriver and the race.

here is the proper way to remove a race:
http://www.excelsports.com/main.asp?page=8&description=729+Fork+Race+Remover&vendorCode=CAMP&major=6&minor=3

there are also tools for installation (http://www.excelsports.com/main.asp?page=8&description=CRS%2D1+Crown+Race+Setting+System&vendorCode=PARK&major=6&minor=3), but like TT said, a pipe will work fine.


yes both tools are "expensive" but they will last forever, hold their value, and save from damaging expensive parts.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z0FaQy07t80&feature=relatedIts impossible on my part to get the race in with a screw driver, i got it in evenly around, But i couldnt set the race down allthe way. So i'm going to go to homedepot or somewheer to find a pipe,maybe go to LBS tonight and get them set it in.

using a screwdriver for installation is very poor advice. some high end traditional headsets use races that will not take that abuse. even if you have a "bulky" race you risk damaging the bearing surface.

I Made sure i didnt touch the surface, And i have extra races so its ok. Tonight im going over to the LBS just gunna bring the fork and race, Probally like 10 dollars to install?

hey may do it for nothing. with the correct tool it is a few taps with a hammer.

Yeah, I have the Campy crown race removal tool, along with the cup removal tool and the crown race setting tool for 1" steerer tubes. I don't have a headset cup press, but have always managed with a small piece of 2 x 4 and a rubber or plastic mallet. The last time I had to install a crown race on a 1-1/8" steerer, I just took it to my friendly LBS, who did it for free.

i have the campy removal tool, the 1in campy install tool, and and the cup removal tool.

for 1 1/8th installs i use a section of pipe. it works alright.

for cup instillation i use a section of threaded rod, two nuts, and a series or large washers. it works well enough that i have not felt the need to buy a press. my only advice is using large threaded rod. it will help keep the cups going in straight.

I've used a PVC pipe for years. Just make sure it has a good square cut and pound away.

I have a bearing press, I just dont have a crown race installer. I'll hit up the LBS. See what they can do, if they charge me more then 10 dollars it;s not worth it.

If they charge you more than $10 to do it, you need to find another LBS.

Thats what im thinking, Becuase im pretty sure if TT had a shop that'd be a handshake and done deal :D

I hate when they work on my bike too.. I normally pay shop fee. its like 10 dollars to overhaul everything my self. so i like that.

Thats what im thinking, Becuase im pretty sure if TT had a shop that'd be a handshake and done deal :D

Screw the handshake, bro, that's a 6-pack of Bohemia or Dos Equis. Since you're underage, that could be a problem. :lol:

Screw the handshake, bro, that's a 6-pack of Bohemia or Dos Equis. Since you're underage, that could be a problem. :lol:

Yes it would. Its kool Brother loves to buy beer for people who works on my bike. Buddy of my 2nd brother races for oakely. He works on my bike. We buy him beer monthly and he does everything haha. But right now he is in texas or something D: If he was here i'd put the fork in my bag and ride over and get him to install it but i got a LBS to get too. Wish me luck

Hey guys, i Looked around for a pipe, And i found out i can just use my stem.. I put a top on top of my crown race so i dont damage my crown, Then i put a spacer and my stem, i used a towel on my stem and i hammered it down. Sweet.

Very clever! :thumb:

Yep! Question for you, On sheldon brown's web site, He said i dont need a star nut, But if i have a compression spacer im fine.

I did what he said, To tension headset, Put your weight on the bars and tighten the stem down. i did this i did it alot, And there is still play.

I give up already, im just gunna wait till tomorrow And i'll get a star nut at the lbs.

So any advice?

Yep! Question for you, On sheldon brown's web site, He said i dont need a star nut, But if i have a compression spacer im fine.


Probably should read compression plug instead of compression spacer

Probably should read compression plug instead of compression spacer

Well it doesnt matter, im just waiting to get a star nut (:

Probably should read compression plug instead of compression spacer

No, Evil is correct. What he is referring to is a bolted circular clamp the same diameter of the steerer tube, which serves the same function that the stem does when it is tightened. Actually, the real purpose of a "compresssion spacer" is to allow the the stem to be moved up the steerer tube w/o needing a lot of regular spacers. Still, trying to adjust a headset properly w/o a topcap with either a star nut or compression plug is difficult at best, so his decision to simply buy another start nut is the correct one.

I have always removed mine with a flat head screw driver, and installed with a piece of PVC pipe. Those were on mountiain bikes, bit I don't think it makes much difference. I have found that some forks allow the race to be removed easier than others.

No, Evil is correct. What he is referring to is a bolted circular clamp the same diameter of the steerer tube, which serves the same function that the stem does when it is tightened. Actually, the real purpose of a "compresssion spacer" is to allow the the stem to be moved up the steerer tube w/o needing a lot of regular spacers. Still, trying to adjust a headset properly w/o a topcap with either a star nut or compression plug is difficult at best, so his decision to simply buy another start nut is the correct one.

Ahhh, basically a locking spacer then? Yeah, using that or stem for preload is futile.

Or maybe more like this? I kinda looks like an oddly shaped locking spacer, but says adjustable and that it can be used for setting preload? (http://aebike.com/product/problem-solvers-micro-adjustable-headset-spacer.-12mm-height-sku-hd9970-qc30.htm)

Sweet, another use for my headset wrenches.

Ahhh, basically a locking spacer then? Yeah, using that or stem for preload is futile.

Or maybe more like this? I kinda looks like an oddly shaped locking spacer, but says adjustable and that it can be used for setting preload? (http://aebike.com/product/problem-solvers-micro-adjustable-headset-spacer.-12mm-height-sku-hd9970-qc30.htm)

Sweet, another use for my headset wrenches.

Yeah, I've seen those at the track. They are useful if you are constantly changing out bar / stem assemblies, and don't want to have to constantly readjust the the headset. You still need to install a topcap, because open steerer tubes are not permitted for safety reasons. In the example shown by SB, you can eliminate all the spacers between the locking spacer and stem, but the SB spacer is not also an adjuster like the Problem Solvers part.

I think Sheldon's spacer is a seat collar.

No one mentioned the oven/freezer trick?

Throw the fork in the freezer for about 2 hours.....
Throw the crown race in the oven (200 degrees) 45mins
If you have the right sized CR it should slide right into place.
I havent tried it yet but in theory it should work.
Will try it soon after I find the correct Headset for my bike

No one mentioned the oven/freezer trick?

Throw the fork in the freezer for about 2 hours.....
Throw the crown race in the oven (200 degrees) 45mins


Problem is my refrigerator freezer isn't big enough for a fork and the fork crown race in my latest headset (Cane Creek S3) has a rubber seal built in that I don't think would do well in an oven. But, seriously, it's a lot simpler to just install with a pipe or dedicated tool. Whack whack whack, and it's done.

newer campagnolo headsets have seals on the bottom race as well. i am not sure if they are glued or vulcanized but either way you wont be removing it.

Got the star nut in. Worked like a charm (: thanks for the help everyone.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z0FaQy07t80&feature=relatedIts impossible on my part to get the race in with a screw driver, i got it in evenly around, But i couldnt set the race down allthe way. So i'm going to go to homedepot or somewheer to find a pipe,maybe go to LBS tonight and get them set it in.

Sorry guys but that Pink saddle in background.....Most of the video just shows the end of it... LOL

rofl.

Whack whack whack, and it's done.

seems like I've heard that before...

flat head and hammer?

That's the method I use. Works too!