Using a cyclocross bike for the road

[stbussey]

I just moved to the Northwest and am looking into getting a new bike. I haven't bought a bike since I was a kid and don't really know much about them anymore. I'm interested in using it for commuting, road riding and if I can cyclocross style riding as well. So, what I'm wondering is if it is possibe (and makes sense) to get a cyclocross bike, ride it in the fall and winter as is and then in spring and summer put road tires on it and use if for road riding? I don't have the cash to buy a mtn bike, road bike, and cyclocross bike but would like to do some off and some one road riding. Some times one or the other exclusively. Let me know your thoughts.

Thanks.

[jfmckenna]

I am of the opinion that a cx bike is the most versatile bike around. I think it is perfect for someone like you who wants an all round bike. My girlfriends Poprad for example she got the triple 105 and so far has used it as a commutter, loaded touring bike, raced cx, and road fitness. Perfect.

[SteveE]

A CX bike is a perfect solution. I use my Poprad for commuting, bad weather, and the occasional off-pavement ride. I like the fact that I put together a mix of paved and dirt on a ride.

[bac]

I just moved to the Northwest and am looking into getting a new bike. I haven't bought a bike since I was a kid and don't really know much about them anymore. I'm interested in using it for commuting, road riding and if I can cyclocross style riding as well. So, what I'm wondering is if it is possibe (and makes sense) to get a cyclocross bike, ride it in the fall and winter as is and then in spring and summer put road tires on it and use if for road riding? I don't have the cash to buy a mtn bike, road bike, and cyclocross bike but would like to do some off and some one road riding. Some times one or the other exclusively. Let me know your thoughts.

Thanks.

I bought a cx bike this year for a variety of reasons. I use it as my training road bike, I've communted on it, I'll run it in the winter, I'll do a few cx races, and I'll also do some touring with it next year. CX bikes are really the do-all bike. Here's a pix of her with my new Old Man Mountain rear rack mounted:

[SAB]

I'm having my Surly Crosscheck frame retro-fitted with S&S Machine's frame couplers, allowing the frame to be separated in two parts for easy traveling on a plane, etc... It'll be the perfect road/cross/foul weather/commuting/light-touring/loaded-touring/travel bike.

[Surferbruce]

do it. i just got a bianchi axis and love it. eventually i'd like a 2nd wheelset to swap slicks and knobbies but it seems to me like cyclocross bikes like bianchi's, redlines, surly's etc. offer the best value for the dollar in the bike industry.
if i'm not mistaken Thomas Frischknecht showed up at some road races this year on his road wheel equipped cross bike and did quite well.

[Dusk]

I had a Poprad while in Ireland and enjoyed it. I sold it when I left and am now looking at the 2005 Poprad. I really didn’t have any idea how much I would miss the Poprad until later. It really fits a niche that my Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo, Touring bike, Lemond Zurich, and Trek 830 MTB don’t fill. As a road rider I like my MTB but not on the road and paved trails. On a packed limestone trail the GF is over kill but the Zurich is not happy there either (or maybe it is my butt that complains). In the winter here in MN I don’t want my Zurich out in the salt and at 145 lbs I find the 2.1 tires on the Gary Fisher too wide to let me cut through the snow. I’m looking at buying the 2005 for winter and other riding.

With a Cyclocross as your everyday bike you can’t go far wrong. Once you find out your riding and training needs. You might think about another set of wheels with narrower road tires or maybe studded winter tires so you can fit all riding conditions.

Cheers

[Arsbars]

I am actually in the process of swapping all my parts off of my road bike (Orbea Altec w/ Campy Chorus) to my cross bike (Kelly Knobby-X.) Mainly because I do LONG rides in the winter, and love the comfort of the OX Platinum. An extra bonus is running canti's so I can run wider tires (between 28-32 depending on the weather.)

I'm simply waiting for a cassette for my XT wheel to make into a 10speed campy compatible wheel.

I'll post pics when it's all done.

[arctic hawk]

In spring, summer, fall, slap road tires on, & you are good for the daily commute, the odd duathlon / triathlon, & some spirited riding. Fall / winter, put the cx tires on & go racing in the mud!
You'll love it! Now the hard part, which one ....

[Txthroop]

I just got a 2004 Redline Conquest off eBay. Everything is great except I was expecting it to have provisions for mounting front and rear racks so I could use it as my all-around everything bike like you guys all talk about. The price was right so I can't complain but now I'm looking for ways to mount racks on a bike that wasn't born with that in mind. I'm sure it can be done and, bac, it looks like you have something interesting mounted on the back of your new ride (very cool bike, by the way). Anyone have any experience with this kind of improvisation? I'd love to find out that this isn't a big hurdle so I can go back to nuzzling and fondling my new bike with no regrets.

-Chris

[AlanK]

Just thought I'd confirm what all the other posters have: cyclocross is the best type of bike widely available in the U.S. They're the closet thing to a general purpose road bike made by major manufacturers. I've had a Trek XO-1 for the last 3 years and love the thing. I've made a few changes as parts have worn out. It has 105 wheels, Specialized Nimbus Armadillo Tires 700x38, a Deore LX rear derailleur, and bar-end shifters.

I use it as my everyday commuter, light off-road riding, and occasional light touring. I don't even have to make any changes to switch from one type of riding to another: The Armadillo tires are wide with enough groves (grip) for dirt and rocky terrain, but smooth enough for efficient road riding. Cyclocross are the ideal bike if you only want one because they can do just about anything except hard core off-road. They aren't ideal for fully-loaded touring, but with some modifications (fork with braze-ons, or a trailer) it's certainly possible.

[Arsbars]

I just got a 2004 Redline Conquest off eBay. Everything is great except I was expecting it to have provisions for mounting front and rear racks so I could use it as my all-around everything bike like you guys all talk about. The price was right so I can't complain but now I'm looking for ways to mount racks on a bike that wasn't born with that in mind. I'm sure it can be done and, bac, it looks like you have something interesting mounted on the back of your new ride (very cool bike, by the way). Anyone have any experience with this kind of improvisation? I'd love to find out that this isn't a big hurdle so I can go back to nuzzling and fondling my new bike with no regrets.

-Chris


There is a clamp with rubber coating that come with most racks in the rack hardware baggy.. if they don't have any in the bag, ask your LBS- they come in 2 or 3 different diamaters
It clamps on around your seat stays where you would of had your braze ons..

[bac]

Everything is great except I was expecting it to have provisions for mounting front and rear racks so I could use it as my all-around everything bike like you guys all talk about. The price was right so I can't complain but now I'm looking for ways to mount racks on a bike that wasn't born with that in mind. I'm sure it can be done and, bac, it looks like you have something interesting mounted on the back of your new ride (very cool bike, by the way). Anyone have any experience with this kind of improvisation? I'd love to find out that this isn't a big hurdle so I can go back to nuzzling and fondling my new bike with no regrets.

-Chris

Hi Chris. Well, the only real hurdle (in terms of a rack for a bike not designed for one) is the price tag. I got my rack from Old Man Mountain (http://www.oldmanmountain.com/). They are one of the few (if not the only) maker of racks that fit bikes with no braze-ons. They even make racks for bikes with suspension forks, and/or disc brakes. I got the Sherpa rack, and thus far it's been VERY SOLID. It's a bit pricy (about $100), but I feel like it's a good deal given the craftsmanship, and its unique ability to snap onto about any bike.

[bpave777]

Hi Chris. Well, the only real hurdle (in terms of a rack for a bike not designed for one) is the price tag. I got my rack from Old Man Mountain (http://www.oldmanmountain.com/). They are one of the few (if not the only) maker of racks that fit bikes with no braze-ons. They even make racks for bikes with suspension forks, and/or disc brakes. I got the Sherpa rack, and thus far it's been VERY SOLID. It's a bit pricy (about $100), but I feel like it's a good deal given the craftsmanship, and its unique ability to snap onto about any bike.

there are actually quite a few options for rear racks with bikes that have no braze ons. those Old Man Mountain racks are beautiful, and for sure a top choice. if you don't want to spend the $100+ for those, you can look into Nitto racks ( http://www.rivendellbicycles.com/webalog/baggage_racks/ ). i just bought one last week. it hasn't arrived yet, but i've heard good things.

there's a thread with other options here:
http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-64380

[bac]

there are actually quite a few options for rear racks with bikes that have no braze ons. those Old Man Mountain racks are beautiful, and for sure a top choice. if you don't want to spend the $100+ for those, you can look into Nitto racks ( http://www.rivendellbicycles.com/webalog/baggage_racks/ ). i just bought one last week. it hasn't arrived yet, but i've heard good things.

there's a thread with other options here:
http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-64380

I like some of the rivendellbicycles racks - some very good options there! Unfortunately, I had to deal with a frame with no rack braze-ons, and with disc brakes installed. I also didn't want to go with a seat-post mounted rack, as I'm planning on loading up past their limit. Therefore, my options were very limited.

[Daily Commute]

I’m one more person who thinks that cross bikes are the most versatile bikes out there. My Crosscheck is a year-round commuter. I put 28 slicks on it spring through fall and Nokian studded 35’s when it snows. I can fully load it with a rack, panniers, etc. for commuting, or ride it much lighter for weekend jaunts. It can handle off-road rides, but the 35’s make that easier than the 28’s.

[bac]

II put 28 slicks on it spring through fall and Nokian studded 35’s when it snows.

How do you like your Nokian 700 tires? I'm considering a set for my Salsa this winter. ThanX!

[Homer]

American Classic makes a campy 10 compatible cassette that fits Shimano 9 wheels. It's not inexpensive... but it would let you re-use that wheel.

[SAB]

How's this for a versatile bike: Surly CrossCheck with Ultegra triple group, 12-27 rear cassette, Shimano XT V-brakes via Travel Agent adapter pully, retro-fitted with S&S Machine Bicycle Couplers. The couplers are low-profile "bolts" placed in the top tube and down tube which allow the bike to be separated into two halves for traveling purposes and loaded into a 26" suitcase, thus avoiding the large fee for flying with a full-size bike case. So my crosscheck becomes the perfect road/cross/travel/touring/commuter bike!

[Daily Commute]

How do you like your Nokian 700 tires? I'm considering a set for my Salsa this winter. ThanX!
I have the 106's and love them. As long as you're careful, you can bike across an ice rink on them. The only thing they can't handle is rutty ice, like when pedestrians punch holes in not-quite-completely-frozen ice just before it becomes completely frozen. They also do OK on dry pavement. If you are used to slicks, you can really feel the drag of the 106's, but that's better than wiping out because of a tiny patch of black ice.

[bac]

I have the 106's and love them. As long as you're careful, you can bike across an ice rink on them. The only thing they can't handle is rutty ice, like when pedestrians punch holes in not-quite-completely-frozen ice just before it becomes completely frozen. They also do OK on dry pavement. If you are used to slicks, you can really feel the drag of the 106's, but that's better than wiping out because of a tiny patch of black ice.

ThanX for the reply! I'm going to run my single-speed mtb this winter, as I did last. I got a set of the Nokian studded tires for this year, as I grew tired of picking my carcass off the icy pavement last winter. However, I am also planning on riding the cross machine on the days when the weather is relatively nice, and studs aren't necessarily required. Now, I may just strap on a set of the 106's, and ride the cross bike more than a bit this winter. My only concern is running the studs in the dry.

You state the the 106's have much more drag (not a problem @ all), but how do they handle in the dry? ThanX again!! :)

[flythebike]

My girlfriends Poprad for example...
Wow you have more than one girlfriend and they share a Poprad, that is awesome!

[Daily Commute]

ThanX for the reply! I'm going to run my single-speed mtb this winter, as I did last. I got a set of the Nokian studded tires for this year, as I grew tired of picking my carcass off the icy pavement last winter. However, I am also planning on riding the cross machine on the days when the weather is relatively nice, and studs aren't necessarily required. Now, I may just strap on a set of the 106's, and ride the cross bike more than a bit this winter. My only concern is running the studs in the dry.

You state the the 106's have much more drag (not a problem @ all), but how do they handle in the dry? ThanX again!! :)
I am more cautious about cornering because I don't want to rip out a stud, but that may not be justified. Overall, they do fine. They also make a really cool rumbling noise.

Changing the subject back to ice-riding, I think the best example of the effectiveness of 106's is that they make riding on flat ice roughly the same as riding on wet leaves with your slicks on. You can do just fine going straight. You can corner or stop at a reasonable pace. But if you go barreling around a corner at 25 mph, you will wreck.

For a few more opinions, look here (http://bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=68280).

[Txthroop]

Thanks for the suggestions about racks that work without braze-ons and such. Looks like touring will be a definite possibility...provided I can find the time!

-Chris

[Daily Commute]

Thanks for the suggestions about racks that work without braze-ons and such. Looks like touring will be a definite possibility...provided I can find the time!

If you are looking a touring bikes, check out the Surly Long Haul Trucker (http://www.surlybikes.com/longhaul.html). It's a new bike, but there are already a few threads about it on the Bike Forums already. It is designed to go long distances under a load. As a nice touch, it has braze-ons for three water bottles. As far as I can tell, you can only buy the frame. You (or your LBS) has to build it up.

[Arsbars]

http://www.arsbars.com/albums/PA-NJ-Oct-22-26/IMG_0162.sized.jpg

My Kelly KnobbyX on the Valley Forge Trail this weekend. It's what I'll be riding for all my long base mile rides this winter. (With tires in the pic) Also is my Cyclo-X rig....


Group-- '04 Chorus/Centuar oh and an XT rear hub.

[BlastRadius]

Nice! How'd you get a Campy cassette on a Shimano hub?

[Arsbars]

A rebuilt cassette called the Accelerator. They have a cheaper Wheelsmith version.. but it looked a bit well too cheap for the miles I am going to be putting on it.

[jfmckenna]

nice single ring set up. what is the teeth ratio on your cassette?

[Arsbars]

Right now its 11-23 x 42. Again this is my road setup

[dhfd]

In spring, summer, fall, slap road tires on, & you are good for the daily commute, the odd duathlon / triathlon, & some spirited riding. Fall / winter, put the cx tires on & go racing in the mud!
You'll love it! Now the hard part, which one ....
I'm in the process of checking out some road bikes, (Cannondale R500, Trek 1200, 1500 and some others) I like the idea of the cx bike, but doubt I'd use it for racing or winter commuting. Has anyone put cx/knobbies on a road bike similar to the ones i mentioned and used it for light off road riding on packed gravel trails? Also, I've got two hardtail mtb's, one w/ rigid fork. Thanks for your opinions!

[ajkloss42]

Has anyone put cx/knobbies on a road bike similar to the ones i mentioned and used it for light off road riding on packed gravel trails? Also, I've got two hardtail mtb's, one w/ rigid fork. Thanks for your opinions!

I haven't looked carefully, but most current road bikes don't have the frame clearance for most (if any) cyclocross tires so you'll want to make sure the tires you want will fit before you buy. IMHO, a cyclocross bike is a better offroad bike than a rigid frame mountain bike for most people; if you're riding in grass and dirt, go cyclocross, if you're riding in rocks or big vertical drops (more than a foot) then think mountain bike, but then you probably want at least the front suspension. That makes me think you should sell the rigid fork mountain bike, buy a cyclocross bike and two sets of tires or two whole wheelsets.

[AlanK]

I'm in the process of checking out some road bikes, (Cannondale R500, Trek 1200, 1500 and some others) I like the idea of the cx bike, but doubt I'd use it for racing or winter commuting. Has anyone put cx/knobbies on a road bike similar to the ones i mentioned and used it for light off road riding on packed gravel trails? Also, I've got two hardtail mtb's, one w/ rigid fork. Thanks for your opinions!
I'm not an expert on road bikes, but most production models by major manufactures have the same limitation: the frame and fork tubes are so close together it greatly limits the range of tire sizes you can use. With most models, you can't use anything wider than about 700x32. Most manufactures are obsessed with making bikes as light as possible at the expense of versatility.

That's the reason I went for a cross bike: versatility. Also, you cross bikes are a better value. Retail price of decent road bikes start at around $900, where as you can find good cross bikes starting at around $800, and high end models round $1400-1500 (a high end road bike will run $2000+).

[Txthroop]

IMHO, a cyclocross bike is a better offroad bike than a rigid frame mountain bike for most people; if you're riding in grass and dirt, go cyclocross, if you're riding in rocks or big vertical drops (more than a foot) then think mountain bike, but then you probably want at least the front suspension. That makes me think you should sell the rigid fork mountain bike, buy a cyclocross bike and two sets of tires or two whole wheelsets.


Why do you think that? I've never actually taken my cyclocross bike offroad but in my mind I see myself having an easier time of it with flat bars (leverage) and a better hand position for braking, even on grass and dirt. I'm just curious, not looking to pick a fight here.

[SadieKate]

CX vs rigid MTB, drop bars vs flat?

My hubby and I each just set up Kelly Knobby X's. His (fire engine red) has drop bars and skinny road tires because he wants the comfort for long training rides. I set up mine (double bubble pink!) with flat bars and Michelin CX tires for around town errands and brief offroad excursions. Both versions perform superbly. I like the 700C wheels on a rigid bike when I'm tooling across bumpy grass and dirt. It rolls better than smaller diameter 26" wheels. Kind of like the 29'r philosophy. I compare mine to my old beloved Wicked Fat Chance (the rigid version) -- light weight, incredible handling, but faster because of the larger diameter wheels.

[Shorty]

I love my cross bike for boston winters. I work in a bike shop, and I ride more than most of my friends there, because they can't trust their road tires on the ice. You can put studded tires on it too.

[Mr_Super_Socks]

I'm not an expert on road bikes, but most production models by major manufactures have the same limitation: the frame and fork tubes are so close together it greatly limits the range of tire sizes you can use. With most models, you can't use anything wider than about 700x32. Most manufactures are obsessed with making bikes as light as possible at the expense of versatility.

That's the reason I went for a cross bike: versatility. Also, you cross bikes are a better value. Retail price of decent road bikes start at around $900, where as you can find good cross bikes starting at around $800, and high end models round $1400-1500 (a high end road bike will run $2000+).

Unfortunately, a lot of "cross" bikes make the same lack-of-versatility mistakes by not offering rack and fender mounting eyelets. Previous postings in this thread discuss some options for installing those things without the eyelets, but that's just overcoming the limits of the design. Good touring bikes have very similar (often identical) geometry to the cross bikes and always have eyelets. Three great truly veratile bikes IMHO - Bianchi Volpe, Cannondale Txxxx, Trek 520.

[dessert1st]

I'm in the process of checking out some road bikes, (Cannondale R500, Trek 1200, 1500 and some others) I like the idea of the cx bike, but doubt I'd use it for racing or winter commuting. Has anyone put cx/knobbies on a road bike similar to the ones i mentioned and used it for light off road riding on packed gravel trails? Also, I've got two hardtail mtb's, one w/ rigid fork. Thanks for your opinions!

I put some Kenda Kwick's on my Fuji Roubaix Pro (it's a road bike). The tires are 700x28 and they do fit, but just barely. Once the knobbies wear down a bit they'll be fine, but right now clearances are tight under the brake calipers. Frame and fork clearance is adequate though.

[JohnSFO]

I just got a Surly Cross-Check and love it. It rides great on the road as well as the trails in the Marin Headlands and went up Mt. Tam's railroad grade like a dream. Coming down was a bit rough&bouncy though :)