Touring - Need some help getting a proper touring bike

Okay, so basically I've done several tours in Ontario on junky entry level roadbikes, the longest of which was about 1000km. I started touring on an old Eaton Road King that I got at a garage sale for $10. The 1000k tour was on a virtually identical ccm road bike that I got for $100 off craigslist. I've noticed that these bikes pretty much start to disentegrate around the 1500k mark, and require some extra investment just to get them that far. (new wheels mostly)

Anyway, this summer I want to bike to BC. My friend and I are planning to go fully loaded from Toronto to the west coast and I think it would be extremely unwise to attempt this on one of these sub-par bicycles. I don't know a whole lot about touring bikes, but I know some of the things to keep your eyes open for, such as longer chainstays, front fork eyelets and the general frame geometry.

I've heard a lot of good things about the Surly Long Haul Trucker, but I've also heard that it's overkill for most tours. The real issue with that bike is I can not for the life of me find a used one in Ontario. I found a couple retailers that are stocking them for about $1600 plus tax, and to be honest that's way more than I'm comfortable spending. The most I'm willing to spend is probably around the $900 mark. So it seems I'm gonna have to use something a little less ideal than the LHT.

I have an ad up on craigslist asking for a "long haul trucker or similar touring bike" and I got a reply from someone with a surly crosschek. I check the surly site and it says right in their description that this is "not a touring bike per se, but will handle lighter touring loads." It looks to me like more of a touring bike than 95% of other road bikes though. Would this be a bad decision on my part to grab this?

There's a catch too, this is part of the email he sent me:
"I don't have any wheels, or a group, but the frame, fork, headset (cane creek), cranks (bontrager double), bottom bracket (pretty generic), a generic post, a choice of old saddles, a 120mm Ritchey Stem, Some 44 wide bars Ritchey or FSA, and some Tektro cantilivers that need new pads are yours for a decent offer. Around $300ish..

Things are in good shape."

I don't know much about parts, maybe someone with a little more experience could tell me if this is a suitable touring bike and how much it would cost me to make it one.

I dunno, I'm just something of a noob, but I dearly love bicycle touring and i trust the folks on this forum more than any retailer or LBS or craigslist guy. (You're not trying to make money off me.)

Any comments or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Trek 520 is a pretty solid bike in my opinion, maybe not as renowned as some other big names I've seen thrown around, but it is built specifically for touring and it rides straight as an arrow even at slow speeds under load. I believe that it is the only touring bike that Trek still manufactures. A new one is a bit pricy, (well over $1000), but the vintage ones (from about 1986 or 1987 onward) have a reputation for being decent touring bikes. There is usually a vintage one for sale on ebay, and you can probably snag one for less than the $900 you mentioned if you're patient and willing to wait for the right frame size/price combination.

Vintage ones like this are also easy to work on/upgrade (I'm not much mechanically inclined, but I've been able to install barend shifters and swap out the bottom bracket on mine). The major downside is that the vintage touring bikes like this usually have 27" wheels, and 27" tires are getting harder and harder to find; even mass retailers like Wal-Mart seem to stock 700c these days more often than they do 27" tires. (Finding a replacement tire on the local economy may become necessary if you should face catastrophic tire failure on your trip; it is probably not a bad idea to even carry a spare fold-up tire in one of your panniers). You could also just stick a 700c set of wheels on one, provided you make the appropriate brake adjustments, etc.

I've decided on the 700c route, the last 2 bikes I've had used 27" wheels and they are fragile and can only find used ones for replacements. I thought 700c were bigger than 27"? Didn't know they were interchangeable. I bought fenders for 700c that don't fit on my bike AT ALL, with its 27 inchers.

TheDazed have you checked out the Windsor Tourist $599 at www.bikesdirect.com ? They don't ship directly to Canada but they do have options to get it to you. Check their shipping link.

Oh well 80's hardtail, pre suspension fork mountain bikes make great tour bikes,
.. change the components as needed
handlebars are another personal choice.

ETRO for 27" is 630. 700c is 622, its smaller,,

now there are '29 ers' thats a fat tire on a 700c.

Salsa Fargo is an adventure touring frame that can use fat tires too

I have an LHT and it's not overkill for what you are planning. Used mine in 2009 for a week-long trip in MT, BC and AB and I also use it for 3-day trips. It's also great for commuting, erands, etc. And as for "overkill" in general, you may want to do something later that requires "more" bike than you imagine you need for what you are currently planning.

In any event, have you looked at the Safari from REI? It's in your price range. And if you don't like it they will take it back.

TheDazed have you checked out the Windsor Tourist $599 at www.bikesdirect.com (http://www.bikesdirect.com) ? They don't ship directly to Canada but they do have options to get it to you. Check their shipping link.

I found the bike there http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/tourist.htm

Looks gorgeous and the price point is perfect. So what's the catch? This is the cheapest I've seen a new touring bike go for. Is there anything about it that might make me regret the at least $600 I'm saving?

I have an LHT and it's not overkill for what you are planning. Used mine in 2009 for a week-long trip in MT, BC and AB and I also use it for 3-day trips. It's also great for commuting, erands, etc. And as for "overkill" in general, you may want to do something later that requires "more" bike than you imagine you need for what you are currently planning.

In any event, have you looked at the Safari from REI? It's in your price range. And if you don't like it they will take it back.

No I haven't. Part of the problem is I don't know too much about components and such, is there some reason I would be better off with the Safari over the Windsor Tourist oldride linked me?

Best to learn mechanics first. as you will have to fix stuff out in the middle of nowhere.

Best to learn mechanics first. as you will have to fix stuff out in the middle of nowhere.

The only thing I haven't had to fix, and thus don't know how to, is crank problems. I can true wheels and tweak derailleurs like a champ though.

I've decided on the 700c route, the last 2 bikes I've had used 27" wheels and they are fragile and can only find used ones for replacements. I thought 700c were bigger than 27"? Didn't know they were interchangeable. I bought fenders for 700c that don't fit on my bike AT ALL, with its 27 inchers.

27" rims are slightly larger than 700c, but tires are NOT interchangeable. The only thing you can use on both are inner tubes. If you're going to get a used frame for touring, definitely build it with 700c as you indicate. If you ever decide to take the bike to foreign destinations you won't have problems getting replacement tires with 700c (you will with 27"). The Surly Cross Check sounds like a good frame and I know some people use it for touring. Just remember that building a bike from just the frame is going to cost you a lot more than buying one fully built. If you are also going to be relying on a bike shop to do the labor for you, then the final price may not be worth the actual value of the bike. The one thing you'll get is the satisfaction of having a bike built with all the components of your choice which is something you may actually very much enjoy. You may be doing tons of research choosing components and buying parts at a good price. Consider 2-3 months to get the bike fully built.

You might want to check out the Nineteen Seventy One at MEC.

You might want to check out the Nineteen Seventy One at MEC.

I just checked it out on their site. It looks nice but has an aluminum frame. I seem to recall hearing that this is a no-no because aluminum is so fragile. Thoughts?

I've noticed that these bikes pretty much start to disentegrate around the 1500k mark, and require some extra investment just to get them that far. (new wheels mostly)


I have an ad up on craigslist asking for a "long haul trucker or similar touring bike" and I got a reply from someone with a surly crosschek. I check the surly site and it says right in their description that this is "not a touring bike per se, but will handle lighter touring loads." It looks to me like more of a touring bike than 95% of other road bikes though. Would this be a bad decision on my part to grab this?

There's a catch too, this is part of the email he sent me:
"I don't have any wheels, or a group, but the frame, fork, headset (cane creek), cranks (bontrager double), bottom bracket (pretty generic), a generic post, a choice of old saddles, a 120mm Ritchey Stem, Some 44 wide bars Ritchey or FSA, and some Tektro cantilivers that need new pads are yours for a decent offer. Around $300ish..

Things are in good shape."

I don't know much about parts, maybe someone with a little more experience could tell me if this is a suitable touring bike and how much it would cost me to make it one.

I dunno, I'm just something of a noob, but I dearly love bicycle touring and i trust the folks on this forum more than any retailer or LBS or craigslist guy. (You're not trying to make money off me.)

Any comments or advice would be greatly appreciated.

the Cross-Check is a suitable touring bike depending on how much you plan to carry. Don't load it rear rack only. Put some weight forward.
My $.02 is that you'll pay out more with the $300 Cross-Check frameset and parts than the BikesDirect or other suitable bikes costing $750. The only reason to get that frameset is if you have 90% of the parts already sitting at home.
Your experience is right on, old bikes with old wheels that were never really trued right and maintained from day one will start breaking spokes with a load. You could have taken any of those old beater bikes and put on good wheels and they'd be fine.
Whatever bike you get make sure the wheels are up for it. I'm guessing the Bikesdirect wheels are machine made and need to have a human go over them before riding much and loading the bike up.

I just checked it out on their site. It looks nice but has an aluminum frame. I seem to recall hearing that this is a no-no because aluminum is so fragile. Thoughts?

bicycle rims are made out of aluminum, some are more durable than others but no one is making them out of steel. In other words bikes made for a non-fragile use are not fragile, no matter what the material is.

I would check out the Surly CC. Wheels can be as expensive as you want them to be.

Without knowing your area there are a lot of touring/ sport touring bikes to choose from. Cannondale T2, Surly LHT, Trek 520, Windsor Tourist, Novara Safari, Rocky Mountain Sherpa, etc. are considered Touring bikes. Sports Touring you are looking at the Surly CC, Jamis Aurora, Bianchi Volpe, etc..

There are arguments both ways for frame materials. A lot of it is more conjecture than fact. Since you have a lot of time do some shopping around and ride as many bikes as you can. Regardless of the name, get something you are comfortable on.

My 2 pennies check reviews on LHT,crazyguyonabike.com also bicycle quarterly

ah,but steel is real{frames**

I just checked it out on their site. It looks nice but has an aluminum frame. I seem to recall hearing that this is a no-no because aluminum is so fragile. Thoughts?


bicycle rims are made out of aluminum, some are more durable than others but no one is making them out of steel. In other words bikes made for a non-fragile use are not fragile, no matter what the material is.

LeeG is right. Don't let the aluminum frame scare you off due to a fear of weakness. I have put about 5,000 miles on an aluminum hybrid frame. I weighed in excess of 300 pounds when I started cycling on it. It's my only bike, and I use it as a regular commuter/grocery getter, so in addition to my still sizable self it also almost always carries a rack trunk and panniers full of clothes, lunch, groceries, etc. IOW, aluminum can be strong.

The bigger issue w/ aluminum would potentially be ride characteristics. Some say that the ride on an aluminum frame is very unforgiving, that it doesn't help to soak up the little vibrations and bumps along the road. Some say that's more just a function of the fork, and that a steel fork mated with an aluminum frame is just as good as a steel frame and steel fork. I can't speak to this w/ any authority, and it's a matter of some debate, so I'll leave that aspect alone other than to mention it's out there.

For cheapest options, I like the idea, already mentioned, of looking for an old steel MTB frame, non-suspension fork and use the balance of your budget to make sure that all the other components are in good shape.

The LHT is available as a frameset only (i.e., frame and fork). MSRP is $430 US. Nashbar also has a touring frame and fork. It's even cheaper than the LHT. Not sure of shipping Canada, though. You could build up one of these frames, perhaps even with some of the components from your other bikes depending on their specs and the qualitly of the components on them now...

I've been shopping around all day and I'm sortof drawn to this bike.

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/gran_turismo.htm

Does anybody have experience with the gran turismo?

You don't have a lot of time to shop for a bike. 2 months, 3 months tops. You want some time to grow accustomed to whatever you get before your tour.

Here is a list of touring bikes... What to look out for second hand.
http://www.examiner.com/bicycle-travel-in-national/comprehensive-list-of-touring-bicycles

If you end up with a new LHT, you won't be disappointed. You will really appreciate the low maintenance of a new bike that is properly set up. That said, you probably have good wrenching skills from your experience with your previous bikes.

Oh well 80's hardtail, pre suspension fork mountain bikes make great tour bikes,
.. change the components as needed

+1

If money is a factor, it's hard to go wrong with an older hardtail mountain bike. Lots of people are touring on them, me included. I'm sure you would never regret buying an LHT or similar, but you will have to pay for it.

My brother gave me this Specialized Hard Rock MTB for Christmas in 1998. It was right at $300 new. I commuted on it and rode it recreationally for 10 years, then put roughly 3,000 miles on it touring loaded. Doing another tour on it this spring. No special components were necessary, except I eventually did upgrade the tires and seat, and added fenders. It's been rebuilt twice, but with standard components. The original front wheel is still on it (26", 36h). Chromoly frame, built like a brick ****house. Fell off my car at 65 mph twice (bike rack broke) and the frame is still straight.

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z310/simplygib/After3.jpg

+1

If money is a factor, it's hard to go wrong with an older hardtail mountain bike. Lots of people are touring on them, me included. I'm sure you would never regret buying an LHT or similar, but you will have to pay for it.

My brother gave me this Specialized Hard Rock MTB for Christmas in 1998. It was right at $300 new. I commuted on it and rode it recreationally for 10 years, then put roughly 3,000 miles on it touring loaded. Doing another tour on it this spring. No special components were necessary, except I eventually did upgrade the tires and seat, and added fenders. It's been rebuilt twice, but with standard components. The original front wheel is still on it (26", 36h). Chromoly frame, built like a brick ****house. Fell off my car at 65 mph twice (bike rack broke) and the frame is still straight.

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z310/simplygib/After3.jpg

Really nice set up there! What racks do you use and how do you like 'em? PM me so we don't hug this thread. :)

Lovely set up, I tried touring on a cheap mountain bike and it almost put me off of cycling entirely. Seems energy is conserved a lot better and you can go farther, faster, easier on a road bike. Perhaps the bike I used was just a lemon though... Arashi Comet, I believe it was.

I've been shopping around all day and I'm sortof drawn to this bike.

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/gran_turismo.htm

Does anybody have experience with the gran turismo?

I do not have experience with the Gran Turismo, but I see why you are drawn to it. It seems to be equipped with pretty nice components for that price. I ride a Fuji Touring and love it, but this Gran Turismo looks pretty nice. Maybe others that are more tech savy than myself will comment on it.

The BD bike has a 48 11 .. silly high gear is a waste . never felt a need to pedal down hill .

maybe fit a 24 t third ring as the low matters more .. or fit a MTB crank on instead, 44 11 is high enough,
the 22 34 may be welcome, heading over a mountain pass.

Wonder what Motobecane got for selling out their brand name to be applied to an Asian mass manufacturer.

if you got one , I'd take it apart and put it back together to know it was done right,
before heading out on the grand odyssey..

I do not have experience with the Gran Turismo, but I see why you are drawn to it. It seems to be equipped with pretty nice components for that price. I ride a Fuji Touring and love it, but this Gran Turismo looks pretty nice. Maybe others that are more tech savy than myself will comment on it.

You will have to swap out the fork if you want eyelets to attach a front rack and/or fenders using the eyelets. However, they state that they are providing the replacement fork for free. It appears that they goofed on the specs and got bikes with threaded braze ons, but no eyelets.

The Turismo is the bike I would buy for the price range. Don't know anything about the Vuelta wheels, but it otherwise looks like a good set of components that should last. The only things I would replace right off would be the saddle and pedals. For $700, it is a very good deal and you have money left in your budget to pay a bike shop swap the fork and set it up.

I think the Surly CC is fine for the price. Make sure it fits. it seems that you will have half a bike with all the extras the seller is throwing in. Also it gives you some options of selecting the drive train and gearing and brakes.

Pete S and his crew took 3 Tourists across the US a few years back and had generally positive reviews of the bike. Perhaps he'll chime in, or you can do a search. My wife has a Tourist, and has done about 1000 miles of touring on it. There have been no problems. Her wheels were true and adequately tensioned right from BD.

Advice to check true and tension for virtually any wheels is good advice however since practically all wheels you're likely to encounter will be machine made.

On a loaded tour with big hills, you may want to consider lower gearing for the Tourist. Meanwhile the Gran Turismo already has lower gearing on the better quality crank, as well as an 11-34 cassette (11-32 on the Tourist). OTOH, the Turismo has less expensive bar end shifters than the STI shifters on the Tourist. I have no problems with bar ends for touring, but there is a dollar value difference.

Not to veer slightly off, but you can certainly get new 27" wheels and tires that work fine for touring. I did maybe 900 touring miles last summer (some fully loaded, some relatively light) on both road and crushed limestone trail on a set of cheap-o Sun CR-18s with a generic freewheel hub (cost: about $100) and Conti Ultra Gatorskins (which cost almost as much as the wheelset). You can also get Panaracer Pasela Tourguards in 27" sizes. I am about 200 pounds and not a light packer by any stretch, and the wheels are still perfectly true and running smooth. I also don't have problems swapping fenders between my 27" and 700c wheeled bikes, as long as they're wide enough. So if you've got your eye out for an older used touring bike (Trek, Miyata, etc) you don't have to rule them out automatically. Though you certainly can, you should get something that you're happy with.

Ever since I saw that Motobecane Gran Turismo, I've been trying to think of an excuse to buy it. Does anyone have any real life experience with it?

Since you're in Toronto, I'll suggest you go down to Europe Bound on Front Street. I wandered down into their bike shop one day and they had a row of 2007 Opus Largo touring bikes sitting there. I know they planned to bring them to the fall bike show and sell them all (I bought mine in October, right before the bike show) but since they're a 2007 model I suspect they were probably unsuccessful. I picked mine up for less than $800.

I've been shopping around all day and I'm sortof drawn to this bike.

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/gran_turismo.htm

Does anybody have experience with the gran turismo?
No, but my friend just bought a bike from BD and is happy with it. They don't have a stellar reputation for assembly, but if you have some friends that are more tech savvy than you, they can check it out for you. Or, you can have a local shop go over it.

Really nice set up there! What racks do you use and how do you like 'em? PM me so we don't hug this thread. :)

Thanks Chris. You've got mail.

Lovely set up, I tried touring on a cheap mountain bike and it almost put me off of cycling entirely. Seems energy is conserved a lot better and you can go farther, faster, easier on a road bike. Perhaps the bike I used was just a lemon though... Arashi Comet, I believe it was.

Never heard of that one. Had to look it up. It appears to have been a dept store bike retailing for about $179 (saw one forum post indicating it was on sale somewhere in 2005 for $105). I guess it had front suspension. Definitely sounds like a low-end bike.

I've never toured on anything other than my Hard Rock, so I can't really comment on how it compares to an official touring bike, a road bike set up for touring, or even other mountain bikes, for that matter. But it works well enough that I see no need to look for anything else. I really love this bike.

I'm pretty much sold on the Gran Turismo.
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/gran_turismo.htm
You guys have been immensely helpful.
I'd love to hear some suggestions on upgrades that could make it even more "Toury" without breaking the bank.

I measured myself up last night for fitting, and I noticed I have a standover height of about 32" so I'm going for the 54cm frame. However I found a formula for calculating my ideal top tube length on this site http://www.cptips.com/bkefit.htm and calculated my TT should be 565mm. This is the length on the 58 cm frame, which has a standover height which is too large for me. The 54 cm frame has a 2cm shorter top tube, is this going to give me comfort issues? Will I be able to adjust something to be a better fit?

Thanks again for any info.

If you are fitting yourself, go to a site (do a search) that is more comprehensive in the measurements. Stand-over height alone is a recipe for ordering the wrong bike. As you see, you already have a 4cm discrepancy.

I have, I think I've got all my relevant measurements here.

Standover height (with shoes) 32"
Inseam 32" (54cm seat tube)

Trunk 26", Forearm 13.5", Arm 27.5" (top tube 56.5cm)

Besides those pcs. of info, how tall are you? They always recommend going one size larger on touring bikes.

5 foot 9

If I get the next size up ill have to wear huge insoles in my shoes to be able to stand over the top tube, I think.

Edit: actually I just measured the bike I'm currently riding and it has a standover of 31.4" with a little clearance. I'm gonna get some 1 inch blocks of wood and put them under the wheels and see how that feels. I anticipate it will be "Snug" to say the least, but if I can standover it without crushing my good bits too badly, should I shoot for the 58 cm frame with 32.5" standover? That would bring the top tube length directly in line with what my measurements say it should be.

Okay so I did the little experiment I mentioned and brought the standover height of my current bike up to a little more than 32.5", and I was surprised that I could standover it ok. The top tube was pretty much the exact perfect point to be touching my pubic bone, but with absolutely no pressure... Meaning I could standover it without discomfort, but it was exactly as deep into my crotch as it could be without discomfort. another 0.1" or so and my weight would be firmly on the top tube. So basically... I could definitely manage it, but I've heard that you should have at least 3cm clearance for the top tube. Any thoughts here? Would it be better to sacrifice that 3cm clearance to have a slightly larger bike for touring and have the top tube length that's ideal for my body?

Besides those pcs. of info, how tall are you? They always recommend going one size larger on touring bikes.

Do you know the reasoning behind this? Is it better to have a bike which is slightly too big than slightly too small?

Thanks again for the helpful replies btw. :D

Everyone is different but here are some info from other sources that explains the reasoning behind it. Sounds like you're following the manufacturer's recommendation for sizing. Hopefully, that sizing is specific for their touring model, not for their general road bikes. If you want to make absolutely sure, you should pay a visit to your nearest bike shop (that carries touring bikes) to get fitted before placing your order online. You won't regret it. Based on your height and other specs, I'd say you're on the borderline between a 54 or 56cm frame.

http://biketouringnews.com/?page_id=344
http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-321.html

Everyone is different but here are some info from other sources that explains the reasoning behind it. Sounds like you're following the manufacturer's recommendation for sizing. Hopefully, that sizing is specific for their touring model, not for their general road bikes. If you want to make absolutely sure, you should pay a visit to your nearest bike shop (that carries touring bikes) to get fitted before placing your order online. You won't regret it. Based on your height and other specs, I'd say you're on the borderline between a 54 or 56cm frame.

http://biketouringnews.com/?page_id=344
http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-321.html

The Turismo doesn't come in 56cm, so you'll probably have to go with 54cm if that is the bike you decide to buy. The next size up from 54cm is 58cm, which will likely be too large. I ride the same frame (on a Tourist) in 58cm size, and I am 6'1".

I'm pretty much sold on the Gran Turismo.....I'd love to hear some suggestions on upgrades that could make it even more "Toury" without breaking the bank........Will I be able to adjust something to be a better fit?

You might consider a new saddle of your choice that will be comfortable all day. Brooks B17 is recommended by many (it is what I have), but everyone's backside is different. The pedals that come with it have clips. It would be much better to get some clipless pedals and matching shoes, or just get simple platform pedals like the MKS Touring. The rack that comes with it is OK, but a Tubus Cargo rack is more stable with a heavier load. Fenders are nice to have. Planet Bike Cascadia or Harcore Hybrid fenders are inexpensive, light, and durable. A rear blinkie is a good idea, like the superflash. A front blinkie is also a good idea, or a proper headlight (expensive!) if you will be traveling after dark on unlit roads.

....There is really no end to what you could spend money on. :)

I have experience with the Kenda tires that come with it. They didn't last long for me, but I am a heavy rider (>200 pounds). I switched to Schwalbe marathons when my Kendas wore out. The Schwalbe tires have been great. I've since worn out a few of them as well, but they are way better than the stock tires on that bike.

As for fit, your bike shop can probably help a lot. Small adjustments in saddle and handlebar positions can make a big difference in comfort. The bike has a quill stem, which isn't that common these days, but you can still find many quill stems of different sizes if fit is a problem.

I've been exploring all my options and found something that looks really good at near the price point I want. It's also from a local LBS so I wouldn't have to deal with all the bs of shipping from the states.
http://bikedepot.com/product/fuji-touring-64459-1.htm

I've noticed that it doesnt have extended chainstays, just the standard 440mm, but I don't think that will be an issue. I've been touring with panniers on a road bike with standard chainstay and didn't have problems with my heels hitting the bags. So this is probably what I'll end up getting... Can anybody tell me a bit about what they think of this bike... maybe anything you would modify on it? Think it's a good purchase and I'll be happy with it?

You might consider a new saddle of your choice that will be comfortable all day. Brooks B17 is recommended by many (it is what I have), but everyone's backside is different. The pedals that come with it have clips. It would be much better to get some clipless pedals and matching shoes, or just get simple platform pedals like the MKS Touring. The rack that comes with it is OK, but a Tubus Cargo rack is more stable with a heavier load. Fenders are nice to have. Planet Bike Cascadia or Harcore Hybrid fenders are inexpensive, light, and durable. A rear blinkie is a good idea, like the superflash. A front blinkie is also a good idea, or a proper headlight (expensive!) if you will be traveling after dark on unlit roads.

....There is really no end to what you could spend money on. :)

I have experience with the Kenda tires that come with it. They didn't last long for me, but I am a heavy rider (>200 pounds). I switched to Schwalbe marathons when my Kendas wore out. The Schwalbe tires have been great. I've since worn out a few of them as well, but they are way better than the stock tires on that bike.

As for fit, your bike shop can probably help a lot. Small adjustments in saddle and handlebar positions can make a big difference in comfort. The bike has a quill stem, which isn't that common these days, but you can still find many quill stems of different sizes if fit is a problem.

I've got some nice fenders sitting around waiting for a nice bike to be put on, I've got a headlight and rear blinkey.. I've got a jandd rear rack that's served me well but which is damaged and ziptied back to life. I'm going to look at this tubus rack you mentioned. I've kinda lost interest in the gran turismo now with all the logistics and costs of getting it toronto. If you could tell me how the Fuji Touring I linked above stacks up against that gran turismo, in your opinion, I'd be very interested to hear it.

Fuji looks like a very nice bike. Only thing I'd consider is replacing the 50tooth chainring with something smaller, a 50/11 is a waste of a cog.

I mentioned this up stream, I ride a Fuji Touring 2010 and I really like it. Comes with decent components at a reasonable price. I can confidently recommend the Fuji Touring. Have put more than 1000 miles on it since getting it and much of it was fully loaded. About the local bike shop, that is a plus also, in my opinion.

I have added SKS silver fenders and front blackburn MT-1 rack, Brooks Flyer saddle and Cateye computer. Something that came on it that I really like is the additional brake cross levers for riding with hands on top of drop bars, very handy. The rear rack that came on it has worked out just fine, when I load up, I load up, usually have about 40 lbs. or so on the rear, panniers and trunk and 20 lbs. or so on the front rack and bar bag.

I have been very happy with the bike, I can and have ridden it all day long. Good luck in your search.

I mentioned this up stream, I ride a Fuji Touring 2010 and I really like it. Comes with decent components at a reasonable price. I can confidently recommend the Fuji Touring. Have put more than 1000 miles on it since getting it and much of it was fully loaded. About the local bike shop, that is a plus also, in my opinion.

I have added SKS silver fenders and front blackburn MT-1 rack, Brooks Flyer saddle and Cateye computer. Something that came on it that I really like is the additional brake cross levers for riding with hands on top of drop bars, very handy. The rear rack that came on it has worked out just fine, when I load up, I load up, usually have about 40 lbs. or so on the rear, panniers and trunk and 20 lbs. or so on the front rack and bar bag.

I have been very happy with the bike, I can and have ridden it all day long. Good luck in your search.

Agreed, I love those cross levers, since I usually only drop down for massive uphills or headwinds. A lot of bikes don't have them, and I didn't even realize this one did, which is a big plus for me. The rear rack that comes with it doesnt seem to be anything special, and I found this from another local bike store and think I'm gonna ditch my old jandd rear rack for it.
http://www.ucycle.com/products/accessories/axiom-streamliner-streamliner-road

Any thoughts? The weight capacity seems higher than average, and seems to be specifically for bikes with shorter chainstays which should be perfect with the fuji. I've got some brand loyalty for axiom too.

One other thing I'm wondering, I know a 50 tooth cog is ridiculous for a touring bike, any idea what it would cost to swap that out for a more suitable one? (ballpark)

I'm surprised they market this as a touring bike with its short chainstay and big gears. The geometry is correct though right? Your positive recommendation has pretty much sealed the deal for me in any case.

The rear rack that comes with it doesnt seem to be anything special, and I found this from another local bike store and think I'm gonna ditch my old jandd rear rack for it.
http://www.ucycle.com/products/accessories/axiom-streamliner-streamliner-road

Any thoughts? The weight capacity seems higher than average, and seems to be specifically for bikes with shorter chainstays which should be perfect with the fuji. I've got some brand loyalty for axiom too.

One other thing I'm wondering, I know a 50 tooth cog is ridiculous for a touring bike, any idea what it would cost to swap that out for a more suitable one? (ballpark)

I'm surprised they market this as a touring bike with its short chainstay and big gears. The geometry is correct though right? Your positive recommendation has pretty much sealed the deal for me in any case.

44cm isn't short, it isn't long, it's in the ball park.

searching around you should be able to find a Salsa chainring for $50.

Regarding the Axiom Streamliner Road DLX I'd pick the regular Streamliner DLX and replace the tube seat stay struts with flat ss. straps. It's what I did on my Cross-Check and it made for a SOLID rack. I then rely on the adjustable mounts on the Ortlieb bags to move it back to clear my size 11 feet. The rack still supported the panniers along the vertical struts. The DLX Road rack with the far rear mounts is a necessity for road bikes with shorter chainstays, the Fuji should be fine. The regular DLX should be more solid given the vertical support down to the eyelets and the double seat stay attachment. I used flat straps because the stock tubular ones mounted too low to the fenders. Also I had mounted an Axiom Journey on a bike and wasnt impressed with it's flexibility. The regular DLX mounted level on my CrossCheck put it about 3/4" behind the brake wire. Short attachment and very solid. This is a 56cm CrossCheck, not sure but I'm guessing it should be similar to the Fuji.

I gather you don't need much of a platform if you're looking at these narrow racks. The weight rating is ridiculous, no one is putting 110lbs let alone 50lbs.