Fifty Plus (50+) - Pondering a road bike

I'm probably a few months from pulling the trigger on a road bike purchase. I'm considering all options, including something like a cyclocross or a touring bike.

It seems that a cyclocross might be a fairly acceptable all-purpose road bike. I know they usually run 32's as tires, can they run skinnier?

Any feedback is appreciated.

CX bikes can be good all 'rounders, or they can be purpose-built racing machines. The description is all-encompassing, which makes generalizations difficult.

Mine's an all 'rounder. It fits tires to 38mm with full fenders. Others only 32 or so.

I run 28mm road tires in the three seasons, switching to 34mm CX tires for off-road excursions, and 35/38mm studded snow tires for winter. I could run skinner in the three seasons, but it's my primary commuter and I prefer the 28s on it. I have three other bikes for 25mm.

If using solely on the road- then get a road bike.

Problem is the choice within your Budget. Most manufacturers will use one frame and hang varying degrees of components on it and vary the price accordingly. Take the Giant OCR (A well known bike to most here but has been superceded by the Defy) - you have versions 1-2 3 and 4. 4 will be basic and 3 would be better. 2 and 1 are where you start getting the good components. So you get the same frame-just at different quality and cost.

So first road bike- what do you "Need"? First of all you will have a budget and that will be the Main limiting factor unless you are flush and can go top knotch straight away. I only went road 4 years ago after 16 years of MTB's and I put my restriction on what was going to be the minimum that would work so I started with the OCR3. Sora Drivetrain and a weight of around 20lbs. Other components were suitable for use but just a bit on the heavy side.

If I were starting now- with the knowledge I now have- I would say 105 drivetrain- weight of 18lbs or less and GOOD wheels as the minimum- but that would have cost me a fair amount more than I wanted to pay 4 years ago.

Manufacturer- Basically any of the good names but what is your Local Bike Shop like? Have you found one that suits you yet? Once you have the LBS you will probably go with what they sell so don't worry about make of bike yet.

So a few questions for you to answer for yourself but what Budget are you thinking of? What type of riding will your roads and MUP's give you and what do you want to do in the future?

I know they usually run 32's as tires, can they run skinnier?
I have a Kona Jake CX bike that I put 700x35 Conti Speed Kings on in the winter months. In the summer I swap the tires and put on 700x25 Vittoria Rubino Pro.

I lump drop-bar bikes into four groups: Road Racing, Cyclocross, Sports/Touring and Loaded Touring. I look at the size of tire the bike will accept and the type of brakes installed and the length of the wheelbase.

Road Bikes have short reach caliper brakes and are usually limited to 700x25 sized tires and have a short wheelbase. Think Salsa Podio: http://salsacycles.com/bikes/podio/

Cyclocross bikes have Cantilever brakes and can accept fat tires from 700c35 or larger. Some Cyclocross bikes now have disc brakes. Think Salsa Chili Con Crosso: http://salsacycles.com/bikes/chili_con_crosso/

Sports/Touring bikes have long reach caliper brakes and can accept fatter tires, up to 700x32. Think Salsa Casseroll: http://salsacycles.com/bikes/casseroll/

Heavy touring bikes are like sports touring bikes, except that the wheelbase is longer and the bike is outfitted to easily accept front and rear racks. Heavy Touring bikes often have cantilever brakes. Think Surly Long Haul Trucker: http://www.surlybikes.com/bikes/long_haul_trucker_complete/

I have a Road Racing bike, a Cyclocross bike and a Sports/Touring bike. If I had to use just one bike for all kinds of riding, it would be the Cyclocross bike.

I love my Gunnar Sport.

http://gunnarbikes.com/site/bikes/sport/

It does most everything. Group rides, commuting, lite touring.

When I got it, I wasn't really shopping for a bike. I had gone in
to have some work done, and the Sport had gone on sale with a
less expensive gruppo. I tried it, and it put a smile on my face.

Thanks for the feedback so far.
Some more clarification based on some of the comments:

Last summer I decided I wanted to get back on a bike, I flirted with a hybrid purchase, but based on a lot of feedback from this forum, decided I should think along the lines of owning at least two bikes, a mountain bike and a road bike. So about 4 months ago I purchased a Motobecane Fantom29 hardtail from BikesDirect. I'm very happy with the purchase of that bike.

Now, as I ponder a road bike I'm thinking of what I would usually use it for. I would have to work up to being able to do a Century, but I'd like to have that as an option some day. I doubt I'd do any major overnight type touring, but I could see myself using it for some minor grocery runs and needing the ability to run it with some panniers. So it would mostly be for recreational road riding, with some mixed use thrown in. So as I was reading some of the other forums on this board, the CX idea started to take shape.

I will probably order it online, but maybe not. I'm willing to spend around $1,000. Possibly a little more, but I would have to wait longer to save more.

Before you order on line ask your LBS what they can do for $1000 ... 2010 model, for example ... that way you'll get some good advice and some backup if everything isn't as you expected. They may not be so accommodating when you bring in your on-line special when a problem develops ... it will ...

Well, in shopping around for the mtb, I visited about 7 different LBS' and wasn't impressed by any of them. On the other hand, what made me go with an online purchase in the first place was having a personal friend (Larry) who is soon to be a retired firefighter, who used to help run his dad's bike shop. His dad was the first Trek dealer in the state of Florida. Larry has built bikes from the frameup and not only has an expert knowledge of bike repair, he has an excellent bike workshop. He has also dabbled in doing bodywork on bike frames.

So while I appreciate the feedback about LBS' I'd rather focus on the relative merits and demerits of different bikes, brands (Trek, Giant, Salsa, Gunnar, Fuji, Cannondale, Motobecane, etc.); components (Shimano Sora, 105, Ultegra or SRAM Apex, Rival, Force, Red); styles (road, touring, CX).

I've heard from more than one person that within the Shimano line you probably want 105 or better. I doubt I can afford Dura-Ace.

I am open to frame suggestions, I'd love to stick with steel if possible, but will consider aluminum with carbon forks. I don't think I want all carbon, and titanium is like Dura-ace, too rich for my blood.

However, I am open to visiting some of the LBS' and seeing what's around and thanks for that reminder.

First go to Racer's Edge in Boca and get fit by John. It sounds stupid, but you will get the geometry for the "perfect bike" for you for your needs. From that you can shop first by geometry which will narrow the field a whole lot.

For $1,000 you're looking at an alu frame carbon fork, and tiagra level, give or take. I would recommend saving a bit more and going for at least 105/Rival level, Ultegra/Force is better durability wise.

For my $, I kinda wish I had gone with a CX bike since I only planned to buy one. However, I don't regret the bike I did get. And I just use my son's Trek MTB when I go off road.

Since you already have the 29'er, get the right bike for the job. Get a road bike, the best value you can afford. Road biking is all about speed and distance. Neither one is very attainable on a cheap road bike, IMHO.

If you are going "on line," Look at Tommaso, Nuvation, Giant Nerd, and BD.

Of course ... it should be a LBS you like ...

For about a grand on BD

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/sprint_x.htm

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/fantom_cross_pro_rival.htm

For a grand I don't think you will find any new bikes with Rival or 105 components. Based on your comments an aluminum with carbon fork cross bike would be a good fit. I have a Trek XO1 cross bike that I race with and also use as my "bad weather bike. I don't switch to road bike tires, I just take a wheel set with 23mm tires from my road bike and put them on the cross bike. A cross bike will have an easier geometry than a road bike, be more durable in the long run and offer some flexibility on where you take the bike. The down side vs. a road bike is lack of quick handling, greater weight and aerodynamics, which are not important if you don't race.

Agree with Allegheny That a grand is a bit too short for 105. At least normally but "Most" Dealers can get hold of last years bikes still with an appreciable discount. I would rather go with a bike I can check out before I buy. Especially one that has a "Name" behind it. I ride Giants and The defy range could suit you (Change the Brand and model to any other Manufacturer) The 105 is a bit above your price but last years models and negotiations can take place.

http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-US/bikes/model/defy.1/7307/44047/

you have the 29er for any rough trails you want to ride so no need for a CX bike unless you are really wanting one. If they are going to be used offroad then fine but for road use Allegheny has said it all. And It will not quite have the "Performance" of a road bike on the road.

http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-US/bikes/model/tcx.2/7315/44078/

I know you may have Mate that can mechanic and build up an online bike for you- but Rather than get a bikes direct bike I would start haggling at the LBS. With 7 of them around you can always strike one off against another for that better price.

can they run skinnier?, sure , but you would run a 19 wide rim with a 23 tire ,
not a 25 wide rim.

Timely topic (for me) ... I'm mulling over the same decision. Made the jump last year (from mtb [with slicks mostly, on-road]) to Specialized Sirrus (flat-bar road [sport/touring, really]). Now thinking on switching to a drop-bar bike, having got used to "skinny tires" and liking the 700c/lightness/quick handling for longer rides.
I'm still afraid of drop-bars a little (osteoarthritis issues in spine, hands, and shoulders) but want to give it a go.

I like some of the break-downs of 'type' here: in my case, looking at the 2011 Specialized Tricross or Secteur, or Giant Defy, at 105/Apex level. The Tricross isn't really a 'cyclocross bike' at all, I think ... rather more a 'light/medium touring bike'; the Secteur/Defy both slightly relaxed-geometry 'road sport' bikes ... which way to go? Decisions, decisions ... !

, sure , but you would run a 19 wide rim with a 23 tire ,
not a 25 wide rim.

Several of the CX bikes run Mavic Aksiums with 32 tyres---The same wheels I run with 23's

A lot is said about matching Rim width with tyre width but "SO FAR"- I have never found any problems. And finding the rim width on some of the wheels around is a problem- unless you physically measure it yourself.

I keep hearing how for a grand you'll be at the 105 level, but the Moto Sprint has Ultegra 6700 components.

Allegheny Jet's comment: "A cross bike will have an easier geometry than a road bike, be more durable in the long run and offer some flexibility on where you take the bike. The down side vs. a road bike is lack of quick handling, greater weight and aerodynamics, which are not important if you don't race." Is quite possibly the best synopsis I've heard of the different styles. Relaxed geometry and durability are a plus for CX, flexibility isn't such a big deal as I have the hardtail. Better handling, less weight, and aerodynamics are a plus the other way

I really have a hard time paying full MSRP for a bike when I never have for a car. When I was shopping around a few months ago, none of the shops were willing to haggle, they were just trying to get me to buy whatever they had on the floor whether it was a good fit or not.

I will have to visit the Racer's Edge in Boca that Bob mentioned.

Nothing wrong with Tiagra or Apex components. Choosing between a CX bike or a sports/touring bike (as per Barrettscv's definitions above) is the decision point as I understand your question. I would lean toward sport/touring as optimum due to the lower bottom bracket, but the CX bike would not be a bad choice.

Granted, I only skimmed the responses. But how many different styles of road bike have you ridden recently? Until you know what a sports/touring bike, or a loaded touring bike, or a cross bike, or a road racing style bike feels like, you'll be just guessing. When I first got back into cycling I decided to get a loaded touring bike, because I reasoned it would be just fine given I was never going to race. I rode it for about six months before I tried a a road racing style frame. Fifteen minutes on that bike change my mind rather quickly. It's like the difference between driving a fully loaded mini-van or a an Audi A8. They are just worlds apart.

That's a good point NOS88, I should look into what I can rent and give them a decent run. The test drive around the parking lot isn't enough to get a real feel for a bike.

I really have a hard time paying full MSRP for a bike when I never have for a car.

Surprisingly, it's been a better than you might expect period for bike shops over the last couple of years, so it should be no further surprise that bike shops won't haggle much. Last year there was a period of up to three months when the most popular models had sold out even from the manufacturers.

However, you'll still get a bargain if you're prepared to take a 2010 model; probably aluminium frame, carbon forks and, probably, 9-speed 105. And yes, I can spell aluminium ;-)

I'll put in a vote for the Moto Sprint. Ultegra 6700 brifters are nice, and they will last a lot longer that tiagra if you pile on miles. The bikes a little heavy, but it will ride very smooth. I'm only concerned about the geometry. It may be too aggressive for you. I think you will be better served with a more relaxed geo. That's why I recommend a pro fit first. 100 mi is a long way to be uncomfortable.

My wife for the Cafe Sprint, a flat bar version of the bike w/o carbon seat stays. I love riding it for little local jaunts. Very smooth riding. It's just not set up for me for long rides.

I love my Gunnar Sport.

http://gunnarbikes.com/site/bikes/sport/

It does most everything. Group rides, commuting, lite touring.

When I got it, I wasn't really shopping for a bike. I had gone in
to have some work done, and the Sport had gone on sale with a
less expensive gruppo. I tried it, and it put a smile on my face.

But you said you bought just the frame???
http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/93988-I-got-a-Gunnar-Sport-frame.-Now-do-I-set-it-up-as-a-7-speed-or-a-9-speed?highlight=

Doesn't quite add up.
Keep up the great work helping people on the net.
Ohno

Surprisingly, it's been a better than you might expect period for bike shops over the last couple of years, so it should be no further surprise that bike shops won't haggle much. Last year there was a period of up to three months when the most popular models had sold out even from the manufacturers.

However, you'll still get a bargain if you're prepared to take a 2010 model; probably aluminium frame, carbon forks and, probably, 9-speed 105. And yes, I can spell aluminium ;-)

Getting discounts around 10% below MSRP on 2011 models is not uncommon, especially this time of year. If you can find a 2010 model in your size of a bike you really like, you can do much better.

When was the last year 105 was 9 speed? 2005?

I'm not sure I understand enough about frame geometry to know the difference between something that is relaxed or more aggressive in terms of what to look for to narrow things down.

When was the last year 105 was 9 speed? 2005?

My bad ... 10-speed ...

I'm not sure I understand enough about frame geometry to know the difference between something that is relaxed or more aggressive in terms of what to look for to narrow things down.

The best way to evaluate geometry in terms of relaxed or aggressive is to look at the head-tube angle, the wheelbase and the length of the chain-stays.

A relaxed geometry bike frame will have a smaller angle at the head-tube than a aggressive geometry bike in the same size frame. In other words, a 72 degree head tube-angle is more relaxed than a 74 degree head-tube angle, if the frame size is equivalent.

A longer wheelbase is more relaxed than a shorter wheelbase, if the frame size is equivalent.

A longer chain-stay is usually found on bike with a more relaxed geometry than the short chain-stays found on aggressive geometry bikes. A 410-420mm chain-stay is found on racing road bikes, a 425 to 435mm chain-stay is found on Cyclocross and sports touring bikes, and a 440mm or longer chain-stay is found on heavy touring bikes.

However, don't assume that the more relaxed bike geometry is automatically more comfortable than an aggressive geometry frame. An aggressive geometry bike can be made comfortable, if the bike fit is superior and if the frame compliance and wheel tire combination supports rider comfort.

If I wanted one bike to accommodate a range of different tires and activities, I would go with a Surly Cross Check. But I'm a bigger guy and like steel.

Marc

Thanks for the info Barrettscv

irwin, steel is real. To paraphrase Pink Floyd, I love the feel of steel. I'm a small Clydesdale I guess. I'm 5'9" and about 225 lbs. (I've lost 50 pounds in the past 8 months). There's a part of me that wants a steel bike next, and then when I get down to my goal weight, reward myself with another bike ;-) I don't know if I can get the wife to buy into that plan, although if i prove to her I actually use the bikes, she'll be more relaxed about me having them. I was looking at the Cross-check, very interesting.

BD has a couple of steel bikes that would put me in the $1300-1500 price range.

Reynolds 853 tubing http://bikesdirect.com/products/mercier/mercier_serpensIX.htm

lugged Reynolds 725 http://bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/gran_premio_pro.htm

both bikes are equipped with Ultegra.

apparently there aren't any Surly dealers for at least 200 miles from me. There used to be a Jamis dealer, but not any more. In the 7 LBS' I visited, I saw a lot of Trek (easily the most represented brand), Specialized, Cannondale, and Giant. I saw a few Scott's and Cervelo's. Now that I'm looking for road and not MTB, I'll obviously be paying more attention to the local inventory.

...... if the bike fit is superior and if the frame compliance and wheel tire combination supports rider comfort.

Hence my recommendation to go to Racer's Edge and get fit before you start looking. You are far better off with a near custom fit frame with so-so components than just trying to weed thru the 100's of bike available, IMHO.

Bob, I absolutely will get a fit done. I can see where a proper fit on a road bike is way more necessary than other bikes as you are prone to being on the bike for longer periods of time, since that is the reason for getting one ;-) There's a shop closer to me that uses the Retul Fit System http://alexbicycles.com/, I don't know how that compares to the Serotta system that The Racer's Edge uses. Oh wait, Racer's Edge also uses Retul (I was just looking at their website again in another browser tab). I imagine I could go to the shop closer to me and get properly fit.

Hi Garilia,

I also agree that an expert bike fit is critical. The fee is well worth it, and the fitter can often select an standard production frame that will fit, avoiding the cost of a custom frame.

Most of the folks paying for the service get most of it back when buying a new bike at my bike shop. And, believe it or not, most do not care. They want a bike that will take them to the next level of performance.

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll210/wildcat-bucket/adam_fit.jpg

The service is also a one time cost. They will adjust any bike purchased from any source for a lifetime. I have yet to buy a bike from my bike shop, Get A Grip, yet they have fitted me to four bikes. The first fitting was a three hour session. The additional fittings needed about one to two hours. These sessions are included with the initial fee. Also, if I ever buy a custom bike, they will consult with the frame-builder to optimize geometry and tube-set.

Michael

When I was shopping around a few months ago, none of the shops were willing to haggle, they were just trying to get me to buy whatever they had on the floor whether it was a good fit or not.

...and they were most likely just trying to stay in business as well. The bike biz is not something you do to get rich off all the suckers that walk in your door. Most retailers, if you were to tell them they had to sell their products for the same margin that bike dealers do, would laugh in your face and tell you not to let the door hit your butt on the way out.

That said, I've found that I know more about the product than most bike shop employees, so it may just be a lack of knowledge on their part of the hired help. Or, they may be under a certain amount of pressure to move inventory that's been on the floor for several months or longer. And the margin on bikes is the lowest of anything in the shop, as a rule, so there's not a lot of wiggle room on price. All in all, running a bike shop is a hard way to keep from going broke, so don't be too harsh on 'em. They're just trying to get by like the rest of us.

SP
Bend, OR

...and they were most likely just trying to stay in business as well. The bike biz is not something you do to get rich off all the suckers that walk in your door. Most retailers, if you were to tell them they had to sell their products for the same margin that bike dealers do, would laugh in your face and tell you not to let the door hit your butt on the way out.

That said, I've found that I know more about the product than most bike shop employees, so it may just be a lack of knowledge on their part of the hired help. Or, they may be under a certain amount of pressure to move inventory that's been on the floor for several months or longer. And the margin on bikes is the lowest of anything in the shop, as a rule, so there's not a lot of wiggle room on price. All in all, running a bike shop is a hard way to keep from going broke, so don't be too harsh on 'em. They're just trying to get by like the rest of us.

SP
Bend, OR
I don't mean to sound harsh. I understand they're trying to stay in business, just as I'm trying to maximize my dollar, and have some money left over to buy bike accessories. I do spend money at the local shops on accessories, clothes, shoes, helmet, gloves. I also purchase some things online, such as tires. Which are things I would not be buying if I didn't own a bike, wherever I purchased it from.

I'm still pondering. Haven't had a chance to get to any shops in the past two weeks. Still saving my pennies, but have gotten the wife to understand I will probably be spending more than $1k. :)

Be careful! If it was a first bike, then under $1000 is fine. No sense in spending a bunch of money if it turns out you don't ride it. I was whining that I wanted a road bike for the last year. My husband was sick of hearing about it on our rides, "You know, if I had a road bike I bet I could go a lot further." "You know, I wouldn't be walking up this hill if I had a road bike." I researched and read a bunch and talked to my biking brother. He said since I already had a bike and knew I would keep riding, I would be happiest if I bought a bike that wouldn't need a bunch of upgrades. It costs a lot more to upgrade a bike you aren't completely satisfied with than to buy it stock in the first place.

I waited some more. I went to the bike shop to see what I could get for around $1500-2000. At around $1700 I could break into the carbon frames with low end components. I made the mistake of trying a carbon framed bike...just for fun. Nothing else felt as nice. It didn't help that my brother swore by the carbon frame he has had for several years. I rode more bikes. Now I was looking at a carbon framed bike with lower components for around $2000 with tax. But, of course I had to at least have Shimano 105's. Then brother said, "Remember that there are three basic things that make a big difference on the bike- wheels, gearing and the frame. Wheels are important and Ultegra is only about a $300 upgrade from 105's on a stock bike."

Then my husband said, "HEY! I should get one TOO! I can't have you with a swanky bike and me following along on the hybrid." ugh. If I was planning on getting a carbon framed bike, he had to have one. Then lbs said, "If you buy two we will give you a BIG discount." The final blow was an unexpected tax refund to add to my 'saving for bike' fund. Suddenly, the Ultegra and nice wheels and carbon frame wasn't so out of reach, just a bit of a stretch. Of course, he had to have that, too.

Like I said, be careful. Your wife may get jealous like my husband did and end up wanting one. We did save a lot of money buying two, by the way. Still, it would have been an awfully nice trip to Europe...

Be careful! If it was a first bike, then under $1000 is fine. No sense in spending a bunch of money if it turns out you don't ride it. I was whining that I wanted a road bike for the last year. My husband was sick of hearing about it on our rides, "You know, if I had a road bike I bet I could go a lot further." "You know, I wouldn't be walking up this hill if I had a road bike." I researched and read a bunch and talked to my biking brother. He said since I already had a bike and knew I would keep riding, I would be happiest if I bought a bike that wouldn't need a bunch of upgrades. It costs a lot more to upgrade a bike you aren't completely satisfied with than to buy it stock in the first place.

I waited some more. I went to the bike shop to see what I could get for around $1500-2000. At around $1700 I could break into the carbon frames with low end components. I made the mistake of trying a carbon framed bike...just for fun. Nothing else felt as nice. It didn't help that my brother swore by the carbon frame he has had for several years. I rode more bikes. Now I was looking at a carbon framed bike with lower components for around $2000 with tax. But, of course I had to at least have Shimano 105's. Then brother said, "Remember that there are three basic things that make a big difference on the bike- wheels, gearing and the frame. Wheels are important and Ultegra is only about a $300 upgrade from 105's on a stock bike."

Then my husband said, "HEY! I should get one TOO! I can't have you with a swanky bike and me following along on the hybrid." ugh. If I was planning on getting a carbon framed bike, he had to have one. Then lbs said, "If you buy two we will give you a BIG discount." The final blow was an unexpected tax refund to add to my 'saving for bike' fund. Suddenly, the Ultegra and nice wheels and carbon frame wasn't so out of reach, just a bit of a stretch. Of course, he had to have that, too.

Like I said, be careful. Your wife may get jealous like my husband did and end up wanting one. We did save a lot of money buying two, by the way. Still, it would have been an awfully nice trip to Europe...


NEXT YEAR!! Europe on your road bikes!

Last fall, when I told my wife that I wanted a road bike I pointed out what I was thinking about buying:

Question 1) Oh... a real bike ?
Question 2) How much? I said about $2800 + $350 or so for road shoes and clipless pedals
Question 3) OK. I thought that you were talking about $6000-$7000 instead ?
Question 4) I guess you'll have to cash in on some of your stock options ?

It makes me think that I should have showed her the S-Works Roubaix with the DuraAce instead of the Roubaix Comp with the 105. :)

But the main reason for going to a full carbon Roubaix was quite simple, road buzz and my age (57). Bikes like the Specialized Roubaix or Giant Defy in the "plush" or endurance road bike category are great for those long long rides. I'm not interested in racing but I do like a good performing bike. To me, the Roubaix was a no-brainer.

I'd got back into riding again after a very long absence (like 35+ years) and after a year of riding on an cheap aluminum hybrid that I bought a few years ago I'd had enough and wanted to get back into the saddle of a road bike again. I also hated riding into the wind feeling like the vane on a windmill. :notamused: Hybrids are fun and are great for running out to the corner store but in retrospect, back then I should have just bought a cheap entry level road bike instead . But that's just me.

Depending on the make, you may find that your LBS might have problems with availability of some models and sizes. I got mine in the winter and paid more simply because it was the best time to buy a bike that was in my size. If you wait until late spring, all the popular sizes are gone for most models (at least for some makes).


Now if I can just get those 10-15 pounds off....

My dream bike was unavailable, but it is fading from my mind as I get attached to mine the more I tweek it (matching water bottles, shoes that go with the bike, a new saddle). I got the low model of the same frame, which was available, and they upgraded it to the higher model specs I had wanted for a nice savings in money. My dream bike was really out of my price range anyway once hubbie wanted one, too. The only difference is the color and a few aluminum bits in the carbon fork (the higher model was all carbon). The difference in weight is a few sips of water. It weighs 17 pounds, which is plenty light for me! I think anything up to 20 pounds is great in a road bike. My hybrid is 35 pounds without the basket. :) I also don't think light, light, light is as important as fit and comfort. A lot of people like their lightweight aluminum bikes just as much as I am liking mine.

My local bike shop has now started financing bikes. LOL. It's a dangerous hobby, but we sure are having fun!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I went a little further away from my usual radius to visit a Bianchi dealer in Hialeah. After the other thread, I was interested in the Via Nirone 7 105. I have been working on the wife, and have agreed that I will be able to spend up to $2k on a bike. This dealer was saying that he feels Bianchi's are overpriced and you're paying for the name, and that at the 105 level they cheap out on too many other components. He was recommending a Cannondale Supersix or a Scott CR1 Team. I stood on the CR1 in the store, and lifted that carbon frame. I've never felt a bike so light (shows you what a carbon neophyte I am). So he's given me more things to ponder. I did get a good vibe in the store. I was helped immediately, I felt I was getting solid advice (the owner rides a Cannondale Supersix). He said that the only other bike brand he'd recommend in my price range is Specialized, but he doesn't sell them. He mentioned that he'd discount MSRP by about 15% and would do a pro fit for free if I purchase there. Meanwhile, i still have to save some $$$$ ;)

I went a little further away from my usual radius to visit a Bianchi dealer in Hialeah. After the other thread, I was interested in the Via Nirone 7 105. I have been working on the wife, and have agreed that I will be able to spend up to $2k on a bike. This dealer was saying that he feels Bianchi's are overpriced and you're paying for the name, and that at the 105 level they cheap out on too many other components. He was recommending a Cannondale Supersix or a Scott CR1 Team. I stood on the CR1 in the store, and lifted that carbon frame. I've never felt a bike so light (shows you what a carbon neophyte I am). So he's given me more things to ponder. I did get a good vibe in the store. I was helped immediately, I felt I was getting solid advice (the owner rides a Cannondale Supersix). He said that the only other bike brand he'd recommend in my price range is Specialized, but he doesn't sell them. He mentioned that he'd discount MSRP by about 15% and would do a pro fit for free if I purchase there. Meanwhile, i still have to save some $$$$ ;)

The Scott CR1 Team is similar in geometry and price to the Roubaix Comp that I have. Don't forget to factor in the cost of pedals, shoes, shorts (can't ride one of those without them) , water bottle cages, water bottles , a seatbag with the usual goodies (inflator kit, spare tube, duct tape etc.. ), a good floor pump and a presta/shrader adaptor. The shoes and pedals will add another $200-300+ (depending on what you get).

Your LBS may offer a package deal for all of that stuff and give you a decent discount on it.

The way I saw it was to buy the best frame for the amount of money I was going to spend that would be suitable for kind of riding I do. Anything else was gravy.

The 2011 Roubaix came with the upgraded Shimano 105 groupset (5700). I've been told that aside from a little extra weight it's hard to tell the difference from Ultegra. The CR1 comes with the full 105 groupset as well. :)

Save your money and get the CR1. You won't be sorry. :) Either bike is a lot of bang for the buck.

I bought a MTB a few months ago that has presta valves. I have a floor pump, shorts, mini-pump, seat bag, camelbak, tire levers, SPD shoes, work stand...I am thinking of different pedals for the MTB (platform on one side) and then switch my clipless pedals (Shimano m540, technically a MTB pedal, but pretty lightweight) to a road bike and use the Bontrager shoes (they are not road specific, but they'll work in the beginning). But I hear ya, I will need another pair of shorts I'm sure.

The Shimano PD-m540 are described as: Open binding mechanism and light weight for serious off-road competitors
Compact body design will be popular with road cyclists/century riders
The best mud and debris shedding ability of any other pedal in its class
Chrome-moly spindle and low maintenance sealed bearing cartridge axle
Adjustable cleat tension great feature for beginners

http://s.wiggle.co.uk/images/shimano%20m540%20pedals.jpg

The Bontrager shoes I have are:

http://www.juliescycles.co.uk/img/pds2/71588.jpg
They are described as: A dyed-in-the-wool trail shoe with best-in-class weight, the Race MTB WSD gives off-road riders off-road performance at an incredible price. Styled after its big sister the RL MTB WSD, the Race WSD features a composite sole for stiffness and efficiency, direct inject TPU lugs for excellent off-bike traction, and a highly adjustable three strap velcro system that makes dialing in a personalized fit quick and easy.

A friend who is a road rider was impressed with how light they are. I'll have to see how they work over some distance.

Thanks for the feedback on the Scott and the Spec. Roubaix. The more I look at that Scott, the more I like it, I'll have to see how it feels under me.

My lbs also thought you paid a few hundred more for a Bianchi of the same caliber as other brands, but didn't think they were overpriced, just superbly designed (of course, he sells them and rides one). I rode one and thought they rode better than some of the others. When I told them my initial price range of $1500-2000 they also showed me the bottom level carbon. I don't think a bottom level carbon is a bad way to go. The components on them are not going to be junk. You will get better components on an aluminum frame of the same price and they can take some dings better than the carbon. With a bottom level carbon you can also upgrade the wheels in a year if you want to or slowly start upgrading the components. Or, you may be happy with it just the way it is. You will have the good frame. I love how I can pick my bike up and swing it around like it's nothing, but a lot of people prefer and love their aluminum bikes. You just have to ride them!

You are being just like me and really making sure you get the right thing for you, but I do think going for the best frame you can get and waiting on better components if or when you want/need them is a good way to eventually have an awesome bike.

Those shoes will work fine with the new bike.
My lbs gave me two free carbon water bottle holders (with their name embossed on them), free water bottles (again with their name), free tire tools (plastic with their name of them), a little adaptor for gas stations that they screwed right on the valve so it doesn't get lost and a free tube (cheapy one). I bought a little CO2 kit and a couple extra cartriages. You can just move your little bag between the two bikes. You can only ride one at a time.

You will be able to use all your money for the bike. Lucky you!

The PD-M540s are good MTB pedals. I would leave them on the MTB. If I wanted SPD pedals on my road bike I would get A520s.

edit - better yet, go with SPD-SL

I've got M540's on my hybrid and I use SPD MD86's with them. A pretty good combination for a hybrid or mountain bike. I got the M540's because they were inexpensive and a good match for an inexpensive hybrid.

I went for the matching PD-5700-L pedals on the Roubaix because they just made more sense. I've got a pair of SH-R106L shoes that are a LOT lighter than the MD86's. The geometry of a road pedal and a road shoe is quite different from a MTB setup. You may be setting yourself up for knee problems if you try riding with MTB shoes and pedals on a road bike. I also don't see the point in using a cheap heavy pedal on a full carbon bike. Mountain shoes don't work work very well with road cleats (not Shimano at any rate because they won't fit) .

If you want double sided road pedals, there are other makes (like Speedplay).

Save your knees and get a proper pedal/shoe match to the bike.

I am not using full road shoes on my carbon framed bike because I wanted to be able to walk around. I eventually want to buy full road shoes, but these are fine right now. He can use the ones he has so he can get the bike he wants. He can get different shoes in 6 months. A set of two sided decent road pedals are around $50. If he buys them at the time he buys the bike, he should get a discount on them. We all want to get the exact right stuff, but sometimes things can wait. New shoes are expensive. They can wait.

It's my understanding that the CR1 entry level carbon at Scott used to be their highend frame until the came out with the Addict. So kind of like DuraAce technology trickles down to Ultegra, so it goes with frames. Right now everything is just "mental ************" comparing specs and component names. Until I feel the bike under me on the road I won't know for sure how I'll like it.

I am thinking along the lines of spending more on the frame and less on the gruppo, and then if I'm dissatisfied with the gruppo (or more likely, when it breaks) I can replace/upgrade.

I have read some people on some forums bashing carbon frames, I know if I went with aluminum, I'd want a carbon fork at least.

The Scott comes with full Shimano 105 components, the Cannondale Supersix doesn't put a full 105 kit on their 105 level bike. The Mavic Aksium wheels are better than the wheels on the 105 Supersix as well.

We'll see ;)

maybe I'll just go for platform pedals and sneakers, or a toe cage on the road bike. I'm not that fussy about the footwear/pedals yet, and I refuse to be a weight wienie over the pedals.